K&B Stallion 35
09-16-2018, 06:25 AM
#51
Yesterday I torqued down the head screws, mounted a 10x6 prop then applied liberal amounts of 5-30W motor oil to the exhaust port and venturi opening. Flipped the prop and rotated the engine through all angles to get the interior surfaces coated. It has like new engine compression.
The back plate has light wear on it from the nylon crank spacer rubbing against it along with Castor residue on interior surfaces of the engine before I cleaned it, so it was run in the past. I'm stoked. What first appeared to be a mistake in buying has turned out a decent engine anyway.
When I locate where I stored my engine stand, will do a run up report.
The back plate has light wear on it from the nylon crank spacer rubbing against it along with Castor residue on interior surfaces of the engine before I cleaned it, so it was run in the past. I'm stoked. What first appeared to be a mistake in buying has turned out a decent engine anyway.
When I locate where I stored my engine stand, will do a run up report.
01-30-2023, 11:39 AM
#52
Picked up a 1960's earlier K&B .35 Stallion off an Internet auction a couple years ago. This one is an earlier 1960's version. The exhaust vertical center web is much thinner than the previous one I repaired above.
Finally got around to cleaning it up. Bought it for under $30 shipping and tax included. With the intake bypass port showing through the exhaust opening, piston skirt cleared the opening giving the appearance it had SPI (sub-port injection).
Found that a previous owner installed the piston and cylinder backwards.
Not to worry, took it apart then after making a new cylinder to crankcase gasket from a cracker box cardboard, reassembled it. Lo and behold, after the light machine oil had a chance to penetrate and loosen old Castor, it has like new compression. This is a like new engine. I can salvage the needle valve spring off one of my Testor McCoy .35 Red Head parts engines.
New gasket from cracker box cardboard.
Engine now reassembled.
Have a used Tatone .45-.65 Peace Pipe muffler, that would be good to muffle it.
Tatone .45-.65 Peace Pipe muffler next to a K&B .45 Sportster and .20 Sportster. Note that the muffler chamber is about the same size as the .20, more suitable for legacy cross scavenged .35's.
On a CL, I run these without mufflers, flying where muffling is not required. However, I have another .35 Stallion R/C from the 1970's. These have mild power output of 0.42 BHP, about that of a modern .25 sport Schneurle. Now I can see where many old timers claim they have ruined their motors using these mufflers. They are chambered too small for the range stated. It would be just right for a .35 cross scavenge of yesteryear.
Holding the Stallion .35 with the Peace Pipe. Now I need to make a strap.
If I fly where mufflers are required, I could then also mount it on my CL planes. Getting back to the engine, in another forum, a poster mentioned that he liked such bargains, because it meant the previous owner had tried to run his reassembled engine, but got disappointed at not getting it to run correctly. That appears to be true in this case. It shows signs of being run, but barely. The slotted screw heads show very little sign of wrenching. When pulled over by hand (finger flipping), compression is very strong.
Basically, I have a new engine.
Finally got around to cleaning it up. Bought it for under $30 shipping and tax included. With the intake bypass port showing through the exhaust opening, piston skirt cleared the opening giving the appearance it had SPI (sub-port injection).
Found that a previous owner installed the piston and cylinder backwards.Not to worry, took it apart then after making a new cylinder to crankcase gasket from a cracker box cardboard, reassembled it. Lo and behold, after the light machine oil had a chance to penetrate and loosen old Castor, it has like new compression. This is a like new engine. I can salvage the needle valve spring off one of my Testor McCoy .35 Red Head parts engines.
New gasket from cracker box cardboard.
Engine now reassembled.
Have a used Tatone .45-.65 Peace Pipe muffler, that would be good to muffle it.
Tatone .45-.65 Peace Pipe muffler next to a K&B .45 Sportster and .20 Sportster. Note that the muffler chamber is about the same size as the .20, more suitable for legacy cross scavenged .35's.
On a CL, I run these without mufflers, flying where muffling is not required. However, I have another .35 Stallion R/C from the 1970's. These have mild power output of 0.42 BHP, about that of a modern .25 sport Schneurle. Now I can see where many old timers claim they have ruined their motors using these mufflers. They are chambered too small for the range stated. It would be just right for a .35 cross scavenge of yesteryear.
Holding the Stallion .35 with the Peace Pipe. Now I need to make a strap.
If I fly where mufflers are required, I could then also mount it on my CL planes. Getting back to the engine, in another forum, a poster mentioned that he liked such bargains, because it meant the previous owner had tried to run his reassembled engine, but got disappointed at not getting it to run correctly. That appears to be true in this case. It shows signs of being run, but barely. The slotted screw heads show very little sign of wrenching. When pulled over by hand (finger flipping), compression is very strong.
Basically, I have a new engine.
