Speedy-Gonzales

My Feedback: (202)

Matagordababy, Those heat "tell-tales"? Have you ever tried welder's heat sensitive crayons? I had a guy ask me why I didn't use an infrarred gun. My reply was "how do you use it on a model while it is in the air?" What are you using?

dannyrsturbo

hey guys whats the price of a supertiger s3000 engine going for now as i have one and im not sure how much its worth and not sure wether to sell it for a gas/petrol engine for my 90" meister mustang is it a good engine ? its not been used

pc55bomber

Hang on to it and use it, its one of the best engines you will ever own.....period.
Run it stock standard using 10% oil (12% run in) and NO NITRO.

I have gas and nitro engines and my big tigres are brilliant, love em.


Cheers
Paul

Matagordababy

Speedy - let me find a source for you. I've never ordered the stuff - I just use it!

Matagordababy

Speedy-Gonzales

My Feedback: (202)

Matagordababy, You are all right. I will be waiting for your info. Thanks! Speedy

dannyrsturbo

but from what i hear the gas/petrol engines are easier to start and dont suffer to glow engine dead sticks as much as a glow engine , now i know, if its tuned right it will be fine , but ide much prefer to fill her up with petrol/ 2 stroke oil ease of use ,,am i right or am i dead wrong, ide just think with electronic ignition on the petrol engines it should start a little easier

pc55bomber

Hi Danny
I would put a big tigre up against a gas engine any time.
My gas engines take longer to start, not harder, just different.

We run a 3250 in our tow plane which runs non stop for approx 50 minutes per session and never misses a beat, that is idling,(waiting) transitioning, full throttle (towing) and doing this over & over. Using a 16x10 3 bladed prop.
Its easy as to start, flip it backwards on compression and it fires right up, a real pus sy cat.

Our 25CC (2000/25) has over 10 years in use in an extra (sons plane) and has never stopped, starts with the backflip, purrs like a kitten and does full on 3D aero's and transitions perfectly.
Uses a 20x8 wooden prop 10% oil (coolpower blue synth) and 90 methanol so they are cheap to run.

They are all stock standard, no mods at all, run them with the above oil content (as they were intended to by the Italians)
and NO NITRO and they will run forever.
Just put a muffler on (Bisson in cowl is the quietest) I run Jtecs simple square box (25cc) and snuffler on the 3250.

Can't seem to get the point across to the US guys that they are meant to run without nitro and here lies most of there problems, they
are hell bent on adding nitro to get more power and rpm's, (its gotta be in their genes) then they have problems.

We have quite a few big Tigres at our club, one guy runs his 3000 in a large Texan spinning a bolly 18x10 and use to use castor (yuk)and methanol only but now runs coolpower blue and again NO NITRO.

Your 3000 is the same as my 25cc, they are absolutely fantastic engines that are cheap as chips (and mushy peas) if you want to sell it I will buy it from you but my advice is to use it cause its worth next to nothing to sell it. Max I would pay Aus$180 ( cheapest bestest engine you have.)

Run it in, tune it, run it exactly like the Italian instructions say, and you will be a very happy camper.

They just never cease to amaze me.

Cheers
Paul

captinjohn

The electronic CD ignition will make you Tiger Start and Idle better with no glow plug flame-outs. All you need to do is use the same glow fuel & oil but add a spark plug and the CD box. Then you will have the best of both worlds! Capt,n P.S. CD units are cheap...just look around

qldviking

why go to the expense of an ignition system? just use an on boad glow driver if you need to. I just use $ stroke glowplugs with and idle bar, and rarely have a dead stick unless I run out of fuel. I have 7 big ST's, from 25cc to 45 cc and they all un like swiss clocks. Again, I dont run nitro at all, just methanol and 12% synth oil

FLYINGFOOL*2007

Speedy, In my line of work i use a temp. sticker that has little "windows" that black out when the aloted temp. is reached. They come in a large range of temp's, they are small and cheep. if you have a caterpillar dealer around you can get them there. these are like what my brother is using, they are probly not as highly accurate as the one's he uses as his are for "real" aircraft use.

FLY IT LIKE IT AINT YOUR'S!

captinjohn

Sounds good also. I think you ment 4 stroke instead of $ stroke! Do you use the OS "F" glow plug? What on board Glow do you recomend and what is the weight of that system including battery? Thanks Capt,n

Matagordababy

Brother (and also Speedy Gonzales): That's the stuff! I'm glad you spoke up - only Standard Aero knew what I was talking about, they don't want to sell theirs, and so far they have not called back with their source.

Caterpillar - sounds like a good solution!

Matagordababy

qldviking

captinjohn, yes you are right. I did mean 4 stroke plugs, I am not sure what brand plugs I have as I keep all my plugs on a box with a rubber hold block that holds about 30 plugs for all my plugs. I have several after market on board glow drivers as well as a home made system using a collar on my throttle rod pushing a micro switch and a single 1700 mah SCR cell, all work well on inverted motors.

Re:- ST6000 twins, They do have 2 issues, running hot between the cylinders and the rear cylinder running lean. The first is a simple fix with a bit of ducting to bring airflow to the gap between. The second is more involved, and is caused by the rear cylinder haveing a smaller crankcase area and therefore a smaller swept volume for fuel/air mix flow. A simple spacer of about 1/8" machined to fit between the crankcase and backplate will solve that. I will download photo's of mods as soon as I can get hold of a camera to take them, my camera got drowned [&:] apart from that they are great hard running motors

Matagordababy

Sir,

Thanks for responding! I do not possess the skills to manufacture a spacer, but know people who do. Your detailed input will be greatly appreciated - I personally think the ST-6000 holds great potential, so any and all info I can gather is greatly appreciated.

They are no longer being produced, but can be found. I'd prefer not burn mine up, but knowing it's replaceable, I plan to run this thing like my Brother taught me to treat 'Tigre's: WIDE THE %$#@ OPEN!

Matagordababy

I may be wrong, but I'll deal with it - Balsa is EASY to repair!

DoubleDD

Tuning new ST 2300 with bisson pitts muffler. Still doing initial settings and and am having problems with keeping fuel at the carb and the motor starting backwards. Can choke engine and get fuel to carb but it leaks back almost instantly. Also when flipping engine to start it always to start backwards now. Did not do this initially but does almost everytime now. Help please. Also notice alot of swirling and bubbbling inside tank. Too much back pressure maybe???

FLYINGFOOL*2007

Doubledd, As far as it starting backwards, start it backwards, flip the prop in the "wrong" direction, don't go all the way through the compression stroke but rather "throw" the prop into it and it will fire and "trow" its self into the correct running. with a little time you will see how well this work's, I start my 3250 by just grabbing the spinner and flipping it backwards, that way my finger's are not in the prop's path when it fire's! work's great, i also do the same with them biteing ass 4 stroke's! as for the air, have you made certain that you have no air leak's? if you are using a filler valve, bypass it and see what happen's. the bubbles in the tank are probly caused by vibration. how is the tank mounted? is it maby too low? that can cause the fuel to back off, also the needle valve being out to much can cause it. i would check for an air leak first though, it only takes a pin hole to screw up the whole work's! also if this is already in a plane you should try to "anti vibe" the fuel tank, the fuel can "froth" and cause a lean run, possibly costing you an engine or plane or both! let me know what you find.


FLY IT LIKE IT AINT YOURS![>:]

fabmaster911

Any experiences with a G90 on a pipe? I also have a 3250 being converted to gas, any experience with this conversion?

FLYINGFOOL*2007

Fabmaster, I don't run any pipe's on any engine, And i have yet to convert one to gas but i am going to, i am going to buy another 3250 for this. I want to do a "side by side" comparision with the two. look back a couple of pages and you will see "THISOLDMAN" he has converted his 3250 and 6000 to gas. he can answer your questions.


FLY IT LIKE IT AINT YOURS![>:]

dannyrsturbo

hmm ive been changing my glow plugs on my st g51 and its still not rectifying my problem the engine used to be sweet as a nut but now when geting to 20% throttle it just sounds like its flooding the engine and with more throttle it just dys it starts a dream on first flip so operates great , ive looked in carb cleaned it out as there may have been grass in it or something but nope it still dyes at 20% throttle any ideas i could try fellas; by the way this sites awsome going to be keeping my eyes in here from now on very good thread keep it up guys o/

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Gord, my solution for a smooth, happy 6000 would be to put Davis Diesel heads on it, then you could completely tune each cylinders compression for the mixture it is recieving. It would then burn half as much fuel and be stone reliable and most likely idle at 1,000 rpm.

qldviking

Hobbsy, I have just one issue with your suggestion, and that is tuning the ST6000 like you say on diesel will cause even running on the cylinders and create differential stress on the crankshaft because you will have one cylinder doing a lot more work than the other.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

That won't matter since its set up like two separate engines, the crank will under less stress because of the Diesels softer but longer lasting power pulses.

qldviking

you would still have both cylinders on the one crabnk shaft, and the power pulses wont be any softer unless you are running at lower revs, and from memory diesel conversions run as hard if not harder that methanol, and at higher compressions too, which all add up to more stress's on the crankshaft. The spacer is just a ring that fits over the barrel of the end cap, it cost me about $20 to get mine made up, and I just used a good gasket goo to put it together with. Its an inexpensive fix to do the job right.

CrateCruncher

My Feedback: (1)

Has anyone else had disappointing performance with their G61 paired with a MACS stubby pipe. For 2 seasons I've been flying my plane with that combo and low performance/erratic power. I went back to the stock muffler today and its like a different engine. It idles smooth at 1800, peaks consistently at the same rpm. With MACS & 11x6 APC, 10%, I got 11,900. Changing to stock pipe I got 13,300! I switched the prop to an 11x7 and got 12,200! Muuuuch better. Anyone wanna buy a slightly used MACS pipe?

wannabejess

I know that St's used to be made in Italy, are they still?

I watch teh prices on ebay and notice that people pay alot more for certain engines than the pricing I find at Tower Hobbies. Is this because they are Chinese made now?