NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

You have an excellent idea in using the mousse can pipe type of muffler. You get a generous rpm increase (compared to stock muffler) while reducing the sound output, plus it can be assembled inexpensively in many instances. Good luck and tell us how you make out. We would love to read about your results and your evaluation.


Ed Cregger


***added a word

Phoenixangel

I now own 3 tigre's and will likely not be buying any other type any time soon, I love my OS .46 and my tower/gms .75 is ok but the money to performance ratio with a tigre is for now in my opinion unmatched.

Matagordababy

Boys & Girls:

I'm still struggling with a problem with my ST-6000 Twin - Mufflers. ST advertised "Box Style" Mufflers for the 3000 which seemed to be a lovely solution, but after having a pair on order for a year or so, I am now told that ST will not actually deliver the little buggars.

Anybody know of an elegant solution? I plan to run this thing on a Giant Scale Yak-54, with the Engine mounted Horizontally.

If I was a hand at metal working, I'd do a little cut, bend, and weld, but honestly, I'd pretty much a lost cause when it comes to this sort of fabrication.

Matagordababy
[email protected]

voodoodb

My Feedback: (98)

GUy in Georgia can make you a set. He just made me a Muffler for my Webra Bully. Did a great job. Let me know if you want his email address.

Matagordababy

Yessir - please send me contact information for the fabricator in GA.

Matagordababy

qldviking

I have made a number exhausts over the yrs. I usually cut, drill and bend and when all fits take it to a welder and get it welded up ( my alloy welding leaves a bit to be desired) this is my ST-6000 that was in a warbird

Matagordababy

Likely I'm just a blockhead, but I cannot seem to find photos, if you sent them.

Matagordababy

Matagordababy

Disregard - the photos popped up when I re-opened the message.

Good looking stuff!

I like the airflow diverter for the rear cylinder. Did you do something similar on the other side?

How did you formulate the size of the Exhaust Tubes?

Matagordababy

qldviking

the pipes on it are 1/2 id, I got the size from a guru who is sadly no longer with us. the system works well, the motor will spin a 24x8 at about 6750 running no nitro. i didnt have a duct on the other side, the motor was slightly slanted and didnt have room. As has been mentioned previously, these motors do have cooling issues around the rear cylinder, and ducting for it should be used. if left with insufficient cooling the motor will spit the glow plugs out regularly needing either a new head or helicoil put in. Another issue they have is the rear cyclinder leaning out, has to do with the differing volumes of the front and rear cases, the cure is to drill a 3/8 hole in the back plate right in the centre and then make a flat plate and bolt over the top with a gasket. its what i have done here on this motor, and since doing the mod and sorting the ducting motor has run like a charm. If you look closely at the back you can see the new flat backplate and gasket I used

Matagordababy

Thanks for all the good info! I'll incorporate it in my Yak. I may have some more questions in future, if you don't mind having your brain picked.

We run lots of Tigre's here, including 2300, 3000, and 3250's, and have always thought the world of them (plus some of the little ones). My new ST-6000 is something I found cheap and couldn't seem to live without, then went looking for a flying machine to put it on, so this is sort of a long term pet project, pretty much held up of late by a lack of readily available Mufflers.

I note that you seem to have baffled the rear portion of the front cylinder. Is this to stop some of the heat from the front cylinder from flowing over the rear, or to keep them running roughly the same temperature?

I'm a little fuzzy on the rear plate. Should you be able to send another photo or two of this mod, I would very much appreciate it.

Matagordababy

qldviking

if I can I will anytime, no dramas. I am partial to my big tigres too, have a number of 2000's, 3000's, 4500's and this 6000. All good motors and apart from the 6000 all stock standard. I also run them no nitro, 15% oil and use 4 stroke plugs with idle bar. I have just got plans for the 6000s new home, a 92" hurricane, which will be next after a large glider once my order of bal;sa and ply gets here.
The baffle between the cylinders is to deflect heat from the front cylinder away from the rear, just a simple piece of light stainless sheet and 2 self-drilling sheet metal screws into the gap between the fins, #6 i think from memory. I will try to get a beeter photo when I figure out my new camera, in the meantime save this one, and then enlarge, it shows better enlarged full screen

voodoodb

My Feedback: (98)

Motor, I'll sell you mu ST 2300 if you love em!! I have had it with it. Has walbro Wt-499 carb and adapter. Low run time.

jay1st

HI,

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

hey guys i hope my question can beanswered here...i have a almost new ST 45, got from tower like month ago and i did 3 tanks brake in, then i have about 10 flights. I feel the engine a little hard to turn(propell) with my hand, even without the sparkplug. Is this normal?. IT works fine on air, no problems at all, im just worry to get the engine to hot or something.

plasticjoe

My Feedback: (22)

I need some "opinions" on what to look for...  I have a ST-4500 on a Sig Sundancer giant scale. I flew it over the weekend and on high speed ... it would almost "pulse" like... it was really odd. I am running methanol and approx 15% castor... when I was warming it up... before going to the field... I pulled the head after the runs and inspected the inside and all looked nice and smooth and clean and oily. When running I get a nice smoke trail. But when tuning the high speed needle... it would pulse.  It's a new supertiger ( looking inside it... it's VERY clean )  When I would push on the HS Needle... it would lean out some.... could the O rings in the valve need replaced ? I have also heard about the Barrels in the carb are best replaced.... any ideas ?

jay1st

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

Your engine is an ABC-type of engine. This means that the particular construction of your engine has an Aluminum piston, and a Brass Liner that is plated. Traditionally, the plating was Chrome, but some engines use a different metal, usually a nickel alloy.

An ABC-type engine will have the cylinder liner manufactured in such a way that it is tapered towards the top. This will cause the piston to jam or "grab" as it moves towards Top Dead Center. Some engines will actually seize if you turn them over when cold, and will require considerable force to turn them through the jammed area. You may feel something that you may interpret as play in the connecting rod. This is almost certainly not the case. What you are feeling is a slight springing of the connecting rod as you force the engine through the top of its stroke. The piston doesn't go all the way to the top, and the rod will flex slightly, which gives an "over the center" feeling. Many people have interpreted this as play in one of the rod ends.

When an ABC-type engine is run, the heat of combustion will cause the metal parts to expand. Because the piston and cylinder liner are made of different metals, they will expand at different rates. The cylinder liner will expand just enough to make a nice fit for the piston once the engine warms up. The liner is tapered because it is hotter near the top of the cylinder than lower. The different temperatures cause different amounts of expansion.

Your ABC-type engine must be broken-in at full throttle. You don't want to run it too rich. Too-rich running will not allow it to warm up to proper temperatures. Lean it until it is running just out of what is known as "four-cycle" mode. You can lean it to peak RPM as soon as the engine will accept it.

You should prop your engine to allow it to turn up. ABC-type engines work better at higher RPM. You should also use a fuel that contains castor oil in the lubrication mix. Castor oil helps the engine run well because it's still the better lubricant for ABC type engines. All-synthetic fuels have been known to cause difficulties in running, at times.

Once properly broken-in, your ABC-type engine will serve you well and deliver lots of reliable performance.

qldviking

sounds to me like you have an air leak, check both the o-ring on the needles and also the fit of the rubber cap on the throttle arm side of the carby, I have had that one give problems in the past much like what you describe. also look into the o-ring at the base of the carby and the snugness of the fit

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

thanks guys! i feel better, i have the SuperTigre GS-45 Dual BB ABC w/Muffler, really nice engine by the price, i put it on my Cadet Jr. with more than 20 years and i still have fun with that airplane.

plasticjoe

My Feedback: (22)

I pulled the cowl... and lo and behold.... the muffler pressure tube came off. Would that make it sound like it was going lean on high speed ?   When I was tuning the high speed needle... I would open it up wide open... then the RPM's would rise like someone pushing in the clutch in a car.
Also when looking at the O ring on the needle valve... It seems that it is slid way up inside the hollow part of the needle assembly... is this normal ?

qldviking

if the pressure tube came of your muffler, it may cause your engine to lean out.   also its time to replace that needle o-ring,  It should not be able to do that,  a likely cause for it to be there is its either worn or old, and got left behind last time the needle was screwed right out.

mickeymouse23

My Feedback: (1)

I have a super tiger 61 abc. I am having problems getting it to run reliably. It has a 12x6 master airscrew prop. 4 tanks of fuel through it. It seems that one time I will get a whole flight through it not allot of power though. it likes a really rich setting One click makes allot of difference on the high speed of running or not. Then the next flight it will not even run. I am running 15% omega and have also tried 10% omega. A new glow plug did not make a difference. I have this on a hog bipe. Any help would be appreciated, Mike

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

My experience with this problem always came back to bad fuel

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

some things to check: plugged or restricted muffler vent line, are you trying to run this rather new eng too rich? how old is your fuel, what percentage of oil is your fuel, try adding in some castor oil to the mix. if an abc engine is ran to rich the sleve won't expand at the top enough and the pist tryes to seize or stick. what is the position of the tank, if too low in relationship to needle valve can cause issues with fuel draw. try a diff. heat range plug. i know my st 75 likes a hotter plug(os A-3). heat range of plug can either advance or retard ign. in 2stk engines. check for any air leaks in intake system, back plate tight o ring ok? head tight? carb. o ring and fit? it just mite be the carb has an internal resriction, spray bar issue. also make sure fuel line does not have a hole or is not kinked. if you are using an in line fueler devise, delete it and see if your prob. goes away. check and make sure klunk line in tank is not up against the back of tank or is stuck in front of tank causing line to kink, also does klunk line have hole or cut in it ? try fresh fuel. check and make changes 1 at a time so you know what fixed it or what had no effect. the modern 2 stk eng. is pretty simple and most of the time it is what we did or didn't do that causes prob. so go back to the basics of fuel set up and don't over look anything and don't take any thing for granted. does the engine flame out on the ground or just in the air????? check, check, and recheck and i'm sure you will uncover your prob. and if need be, try another eng. from a friend and see if the prob. follows the engine or not.

jay1st

Hi guys !!!