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*** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

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Old 10-22-2011, 07:01 PM
  #1401
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

Hey guys I finally joined the brotherhood! I bought a new g75 from tower and I have a question about break-in.. The book says 30 minutes give or take a few and shes ready to fly but I have heard these babies take a while to break in.. What do ya'll recomend for the break in? I am running wildcat 10% 80/20 with a 12/7 MA prop... Its on the GP Eagle 580


THANKS GUYS!
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Old 10-23-2011, 02:12 AM
  #1402
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

Howdy snapper I have a few of these babies ( not the 75 though) and I just go by the book. I have just broken in a 34 and did 3 tanks on the ground and have about 10 all up and she is pretty much all done. Was running a bit rough so I replaced the glow plug ( the original one ) and shes a little ripper. Just like all the others ( 1x45 , 2x51s, and 1 x90 ) Cheers the pope
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Old 10-23-2011, 05:08 AM
  #1403
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I have an S90K that I received having very little run-time on it. I set it up on my test stand, and using a 16oz tank ran 1 tank extra rich, and over 2-3 more 16oz tanks started leaning it down some. The ring was seated after the first tank. After about 2-3 more tanks getting it dialed in, I got the midrange adjusted to near-perfection and its a happy little .90 now.

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Old 10-23-2011, 06:41 PM
  #1404
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

snaproll38,
I've been flying a G-75 for about two years and think this an excellent engine.
As for your break in question, 30 mins to start the break in is OK the rest should be
while flying as the engine is under less load than running on the ground and also running cooler.

Treated right, your Super Tigre will give you many years of dependable flying.

Happy flying, Oscar
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:59 PM
  #1405
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I had a guy at my field who is a super tigre nut helped me break in and tune the g75... ALL I CAN SAY IS WOW!![X(] That thing screams! At optimum rpm running wot for 5 minutes I touched the crankcase at the bearings and it was room temp! This will be plenty of motor for a .46 cap
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:42 PM
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Hi,
Might I join? I have a S3000, S2500, (3) G23s, G90 (to be dieselized), G75, GS45 and (2) GS40s (thinking of a twin). One of the G23s is in an Ultrasport 1000 that is 20+ years old and is the best flying plane ever!
I guess I have been lucky - the only time I ever had a dead stick with any of my Tigres is when the glow plug blew (completely) out!
I had some others I should have kept: a rear exhaust X.61, a baffle-piston .51 and a 1971 G20/23. Oh, well.

I do need some help from you folks. I have a "basket case" S40K (ringed, Italian) that DOES NOT have the dished-in head. It has a head like the current GS 40. Does anyone have the original parts listing so that I can figure out what GS40 parts might fit - or a list of what they know would work? I know from Frank Bowman that the rings are identical, which makes me think the pistons would be also. I have some extra GS40 cranks and sleeves, but it would be nice to know without tearing down an engine and measuring everything. Tower's "parts usage" does not reflect the older models that the parts might fit.

Thanks in advance!

Jim
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Old 12-08-2011, 05:15 AM
  #1407
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: SRQFlyer

Hi,
Might I join? I have a S3000, S2500, (3) G23s, G90 (to be dieselized), G75, GS45 and (2) GS40s (thinking of a twin). One of the G23s is in an Ultrasport 1000 that is 20+ years old and is the best flying plane ever!
I guess I have been lucky - the only time I ever had a dead stick with any of my Tigres is when the glow plug blew (completely) out!
I had some others I should have kept: a rear exhaust X.61, a baffle-piston .51 and a 1971 G20/23. Oh, well.

I do need some help from you folks. I have a ''basket case'' S40K (ringed, Italian) that DOES NOT have the dished-in head. It has a head like the current GS 40. Does anyone have the original parts listing so that I can figure out what GS40 parts might fit - or a list of what they know would work? I know from Frank Bowman that the rings are identical, which makes me think the pistons would be also. I have some extra GS40 cranks and sleeves, but it would be nice to know without tearing down an engine and measuring everything. Tower's ''parts usage'' does not reflect the older models that the parts might fit.

Thanks in advance!

Jim

Hi, hope this helps. Also Toysonics.com has (had?) spares for ST engines. Good luck.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Ge94278.pdf (506.3 KB, 6 views)
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Old 12-08-2011, 05:31 AM
  #1408
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

Thanks Spaceworm. It's good to have that manual with all the engines' information.

Jim
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Old 12-26-2011, 01:00 AM
  #1409
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

Does anyone have a front shot of the ST 2300 I could see. I took out my bearings to and forgot which way they were installed.
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:04 AM
  #1410
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figured it out the shield portion of the bearing faces the outside and the seal faces the inside.
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Old 12-27-2011, 04:01 PM
  #1411
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***


Quote:
ORIGINAL: SRQFlyer

Hi,
Might I join? I have a S3000, S2500, (3) G23s, G90 (to be dieselized), G75, GS45 and (2) GS40s (thinking of a twin). One of the G23s is in an Ultrasport 1000 that is 20+ years old and is the best flying plane ever!
I guess I have been lucky - the only time I ever had a dead stick with any of my Tigres is when the glow plug blew (completely) out!
I had some others I should have kept: a rear exhaust X.61, a baffle-piston .51 and a 1971 G20/23. Oh, well.

I do need some help from you folks. I have a ''basket case'' S40K (ringed, Italian) that DOES NOT have the dished-in head. It has a head like the current GS 40. Does anyone have the original parts listing so that I can figure out what GS40 parts might fit - or a list of what they know would work? I know from Frank Bowman that the rings are identical, which makes me think the pistons would be also. I have some extra GS40 cranks and sleeves, but it would be nice to know without tearing down an engine and measuring everything. Tower's ''parts usage'' does not reflect the older models that the parts might fit.

Thanks in advance!

Jim
Boy with that line up not only can you join but I think you can be the pres. Cheers the pope
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:00 PM
  #1412
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I've been running-in a SuperTigre S.29 on my test stand for the upcoming season. I have ran 2 quarts of my break-in brew (5% nitro/25% castor) through it over about 14 runs starting out sloppy rich and leaning down over the last 16oz. I havent ran it up to full power yet (leaned to peak) and I was curious if it would be safe to assume I'd be alright to bring it up to full power (just a few clicks rich of peak power) for a few runs. I have a full tuned pipe on it (untuned) as the stock muffler is better used as a keychain ornament than a muffler. The highest rpm its reached so far was about 13,500 (for about 1-2 minutes) and its still a good bit rich at that. I'm using a MC59 hot plug and an APC 9x5 prop. It has never sagged after an adjustment, it just keeps going and going so I figured I could probably bring it up to peak and back it off just a little and maybe put it into service?

I don't know if I'll tune the pipe or not. I dont want it to end up being "peaky", so if it runs as strong as I think it will I'll just leave it as is and let it run.

Thoughts?
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:07 PM
  #1413
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

I've been running-in a SuperTigre S.29 on my test stand for the upcoming season. I have ran 2 quarts of my break-in brew (5% nitro/25% castor) through it over about 14 runs starting out sloppy rich and leaning down over the last 16oz. I havent ran it up to full power yet (leaned to peak) and I was curious if it would be safe to assume I'd be alright to bring it up to full power (just a few clicks rich of peak power) for a few runs. I have a full tuned pipe on it (untuned) as the stock muffler is better used as a keychain ornament than a muffler. The highest rpm its reached so far was about 13,500 (for about 1-2 minutes) and its still a good bit rich at that. I'm using a MC59 hot plug and an APC 9x5 prop. It has never sagged after an adjustment, it just keeps going and going so I figured I could probably bring it up to peak and back it off just a little and maybe put it into service?

I don't know if I'll tune the pipe or not. I dont want it to end up being "peaky", so if it runs as strong as I think it will I'll just leave it as is and let it run.

Thoughts?
Is that a ringed or a ABC engine1QwkSport2.5r ?

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Old 03-13-2012, 05:22 PM
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

Sorry, I forgot to mention its ringed.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:40 PM
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You should be able to cycle it from fast rich to lean, not full out peaked at this point and then a rich lean to run steady at.
Break in for a ringed and a ABC type is way different. A rich 2 cycle is were I break ABC motors in at. Or you risk ruining the pinch.

I am sure others can better describe the methods.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: flyingagin

You should be able to cycle it from fast rich to lean, not full out peaked at this point and then a rich lean to run steady at.
Break in for a ringed and a ABC type is way different. A rich 2 cycle is were I break ABC motors in at. Or you risk ruining the pinch.

I am sure others can better describe the methods.
I'm well versed in ABC/ABN/AAC vs. lapped iron/steel vs. ringed break-in, I just wasn't sure if it was too soon to bring it close to peak. I venture to guess 15,500rpm to be something close to peak if not a bit higher. This engine sounds a fair bit stronger than my Enya SS30 with a TT .46 muffler. I didn't peak that engine until it had a gallon on it, but that's a lapped iron/steel engine.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:52 PM
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***


Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r


Quote:
ORIGINAL: flyingagin

You should be able to cycle it from fast rich to lean, not full out peaked at this point and then a rich lean to run steady at.
Break in for a ringed and a ABC type is way different. A rich 2 cycle is were I break ABC motors in at. Or you risk ruining the pinch.

I am sure others can better describe the methods.
I'm well versed in ABC/ABN/AAC vs. lapped iron/steel vs. ringed break-in, I just wasn't sure if it was too soon to bring I close to peak. I venture to guess 15,500rpm to be something close to peak if not a bit higher. This engine sounds a fair bit stronger than my Enya SS30 with a TT .46 muffler. I didn't peak that engine until it had a gallon on it, but that's a lapped iron/steel engine.
Looking at your number of post I kinda of thought that, and your post in other threads, but figured I throw it out there. Some one else might need to know?.
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:02 PM
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

Well, I'm past the most critical part I think, so I'm going to drop the oil down to 20% and keep easing the rpm up. I was raising the top rpm by about 700-800 every 5 runs or so. I'll give it another quart at least before I see if it will hold steady on a fast 2-stroke run.
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:35 PM
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

I'm now at the point I'm ready to put my S29 into service I think. I ran another 1.5 quarts through the engine (5% nitro 20% castor) and set it up for the best possible idle, and adjusted the spraybar a little to improve the transition some. Its still a little rich in the midrange, but I've been running the exhaust through a bucket to lower the noise and suspect the extra backpressure and old glow plug causing the non-ideal midrange. The lowest idle I got was about 2600 with a more reliable idle of 2800-2900rpm or so. I still havent peaked it, but ran it within 500rpm of peak power. I have a (albeit crappy) video of the last run I made with it. It definitely needs more run time to improve the idle and midrange, but I think it will run pretty well as-is with some fresh fuel and a new glow plug. I let it rev out to about 15,200 for a short time and feel pretty safe at 14,800rpm. I am guessing it will peak around 15,700 with the pipe untuned. How high is too high of an idle to get the idle mixture set properly? I was setting my idle mixture with the engine idling around 2900 and got it pretty close.

A question for those that have experience with the S29 - Has anyone gotten a perfect transition and nice low idle with one of these without having to adjust the spraybar or is it the norm to adjust the spraybar on these?

I plan to run it one more time with a new plug, fresh fuel, and the pipe not run to the bucket to get a final judgement but so far it seems to be running rather well.

edit: added video.
http://youtu.be/qD6tqD2CaoU
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:18 PM
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

just remember that when the pipe length is adjusted for max power and the engine/plane is air born and unloads, and the engine, as it comes up on the pipe, it will go leaner mixture wise. if you peak out the engine to the leanest mixture on the ground, it will be OVER lean in the air and at speed. so show caution when setting the hi end needle on the ground!!!!!!!
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:57 PM
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***


Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

I don't know if I'll tune the pipe or not. I dont want it to end up being ''peaky'', so if it runs as strong as I think it will I'll just leave it as is and let it run.

Thoughts?
If you don't have the corrected length of the pipe, it is just a more restrictive part than a regular muffler. You should have it tuned but you can tune for low revs if you prefer.
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Old 03-16-2012, 01:45 AM
  #1422
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

tuning the pipe for top end power won't make the engine run peaky. some engine like the pipe others it just doesn't show up that much. depends a lot on engine porting. get the engine up on the pipe is like supercharging the engine. some of the things that make engines peaky are port timing, too large of a carb., etc. when the eng. comes on the pipe it sounds so good and the eng. pulls like gang busters. sweet!!!!!!!!!! you mite have to play with some plugs as a piped eng. likes a little cooler plug and a little more nitro. to get it rite is a little work but worth it if your looking for hi-performance. just depends on what your using the eng. for.
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:13 AM
  #1423
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For the old S-29 engine, a "nice, low idle" was anything below 3,000 RPM. Anything lower than 3,000 RPM that gave you more than 30 seconds of idle with a "reasonable" throttle-up transition was considered "good". "Reasonable" meant that you could crack open the throttle and the engine would come up without dying, but might have a brief hesitation. Midrange was good as long as the engine didn't load up and die when you throttled up from there.

Basically, if the engine stayed running throughout a flight with a variety of throttle settings and throttle changes, it was "good".

Again, any sustained idle below 3,000 RPM is good. Anything lower is just "gravy".
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:43 AM
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Default RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***

Thanks for the reply, guys. For now, the engine is going onto an airboat I built. I will fly it at some point down the road.

Since it will idle good at 2900, I'll use that as my reference for setting the needles. The throttling seems very similar to my Enya ss30 - not real linear. It does seem to behave pretty well though.

On the tuned pipe/colder plug/higher nitro bit - I don't plan to run any more nitro. I'll test different plugs though. When you tune the header, you're more or less tuning to a specific prop/prop load, right?
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:48 AM
  #1425
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Thanks for the reply, guys. For now, the engine is going onto an airboat I built. I will fly it at some point down the road.

Since it will idle good at 2900, I'll use that as my reference for setting the needles. The throttling seems very similar to my Enya ss30 - not real linear. It does seem to behave pretty well though.

On the tuned pipe/colder plug/higher nitro bit - I don't plan to run any more nitro. I'll test different plugs though. When you tune the header, you're more or less tuning to a specific prop/prop load, right?
that is correct. prop and rpm band you what it to run in.
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