1QwkSport2.5r

What he said. The high speed needle is always on the same side of the carb as the fuel inlet.

Ambient air temp of 75 degrees will require a richer setting than an ambient temp of 90, so the engine was probably rich if running it in 90 degree temps FROM 75 degrees. It's always a good idea to Richen the needle and re-tune it every outing. Or run it up and check the mixture setting at WOT with a pinch test.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Sky, I have that engine, a 40 sized Swing muffler will bolt right on.

downunder

There's a test of your engine at http://sceptreflight.com/Model%20Eng...%20G21-46.html where it states it's a ringed engine with a chrome plated steel liner. If it was my engine I'd run it in with the same fuel used in that test, 25% all castor and no nitro. Trouble is I doubt you'll find that fuel in your LHS so look for a fuel with minimum nitro (0-5%) and maximum oil preferably with a lot of castor.

5skyhawk172

Thanks!

HitecMan

My Feedback: (43)

Greetings fellow Super Tigre followers! I was recently given a brand new G2300 that is mounted on the front of my Ace RC Big Bingo. Someone on here suggested that this combo would work together well. I know it will not be a powerhouse by any means but it would also be a tribute to my Grandfather who was an avid modeler for 30+ years and had a similar set up.

So a few questions...

Best fuel and prop combination for solid sport flying? Flying at low altitude between Atlanta and Charlotte.

Also any performance suggestions for this engine? I am on a tight budget but would like to get as much from this combo as possible.

Thanks ahead of time for any advice!

Tyler

LOCKTUMBLER

Got one I've rebuilt; new ring, lapped bore, new con-rod, new bearings and an ASP91 carb(smaller choke) with spigot sleeve to fit. Standard silencer. 5%nitro/20%castor/75%methanol; 16 X 8 wood prop @ 9,400rpm (only part run in). I live at the coast in North Wales UK and I'm 270ft above sea level.
HTH

flyingagin

Once it is broke in all the, how much oil will you run?

LOCKTUMBLER

I'll try it on my standard fuel, 'Southern model craft synthetic' - 15%synth oil/2%castor/10%nitro/73%methanol. But, 10% nitro may be too much, if so I'll use the same fuel but with only 5% nitro.

flyingagin

Not that much different than what I run my 3000 on. When I get that plane going again I'd like to go to spark ignition on glow @ 10 percent castor. Going to some time before I can even think about it though. With new monster radio gear. Life batteries, modern servos, I could still actually reduce weight.

tony0707

Morgan makes a fuel just for the ST 3000 that you should look into regarding the spec's
The amount of oil in the glo fuel SB reduced for the larger ST per ST instructions
i forget the amout of nitro (think 5%) and total oil is 16% ( i think ) 2% castor oil ??
i run some castor in --all my -two cycle glo motors which is all i fly for 23 yrs
To much oil in the fuel will snuff out the glo plug on the big ST engines ( deadstik - ouch )

You should go to a larger size fuel tubing from the clunk ( larger clunk ) to the carb to feed the larger ST engines correctly
Prop the engine to run at the RPM that ST recommends on the ground ( check it on a tach )
ST can take some time to break in until they will hold a good needle valve settings
Once it holds the settings get it into the air and fly it ASAP
Air cooled so it will perform its best there

Run some extra castor oil in the -first tank - of fuel (add a little to the Morgan ST)
One oz to 16 ozs of fuel
Let the engine cool down-- completely --before you run it again and keep the piston on the top of the cylinder as it cools off ( good policy )
Run the engine until the NV setting pass the pinch test ( RPM should increase 200 RPM both on the high end and the low end when you squeeze the fuel tubing closed )
That is also the -ready to take to the air- place to be with any two cycle glo engine

I like the ACE plane you have could be a great combo
Have an ACE 4-40 taildrager myself with an OS 46 SF
Strong flying 40 size airframe
Just be sure not to try to put to much weight in engine ( more power ) up front as it will make the plane very hard to fly especially on landing approaches
You blew the flight --if you have a poor landing in my opinion
Need to land in front of your face ( very best look at the touch down and taxi it back to your feet )
Go to the high side of the recommended engine size from the kit manufacturer is usually safe

Enjoy

1QwkSport2.5r

The 2300 requires 18% oil per the manufacturer. I would break-in on 22-24% oil and go down to 18-20% oil thereafter. The 18% oil requirement only applies to the 2000, 2300, and 2500. All other big Tigres can be run on 10-12% castor or 14-16% castor/synthetic blend after break-in. This info came from the manufacturer years ago.

flyingagin

I not flown that plane, engine for rather some time even though I love them. My buddy, (also next door neighbor) bought them second hand. We fought and cussed that engine. Even had EGA (electronic glow assist) on the engine. Constant dead sticks. This was on standard fuel, 18% oil. Then it was suggested to lower our oil to 10%. Ran fantastic. Pulled the EGA out still ran great. I later acguired all of his RC stuff. I will never part with the plane, engine. That is my memory of a great friend. He unfortunately drank himself to death.
I just add methenal to 10% nitro,18% oil.
Works great. Can't remember the amount of methenal to add. Will figure that out again. Recover, re radio. Find another muffler (original is laying somewhere in a cow pasture. Fell off).
Glow with electronic engiton works great for 4 strokes. More power less oil needed, better fuel economy, lower idle. Same thing with 2 strokes, although not as pronounced.
A bunch of 3000 have been converted to gas. But am not willing to give up hourse power.

It might be a long time yet. House projects. A body that has turned traitor on me.

Ken

J330

My Feedback: (3)

It's a .40 ringed ST engine. The screw missing here? Small hole on the carb top, will it affect how the engine runs and what do you suggest I do to remedy it if it does?
I haven't tried starting it yet. Engine otherwise is great, thought I'd come here and ask for help.

the pope

Thats just the idle stop . Not needed nowdays and your engine will run just fine without it . Cheers

1QwkSport2.5r

Might have an air leak there if the carb is worn at all. Should either stick a screw in the hole or put some silicone sealer in it.

J330

My Feedback: (3)

It's a low run time engine, I usually fuel line seal the needle valves, I guess I can fill the hole as insurance, glad I don't need to find a screw that small for it. Thanks.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Both the LS needle and the HS needle have an O-ring on them, no fuel line needed.

rsventure

So I have a S2000 that was mounted in a clipped wing Sig J3. Was probably the best running engine I have ever owned. But after oh so many hours running was time for new piston. Now that was no problem to get, BUT, I need a piston for it now. Dropped/knocked the piston on the floor WITHOUT NOTICING, and of course stepped on it. Broke corner off it.
Now, part # on ST parts listing supplied with motor says #02202001, ST website # says 02202201, neither of which, not surprisingly, I can find anywhere. Hate to "retire" this engine so am just asking. Would anyone out there have a piston from a S2000? Or does anyone know of a piston of another brand that would work?
Would a piston and liner from a 2500 fit?
Thanks for your help everyone.

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

I don't have a 2000 piston or ring, but I can offer u a new 1.2 2000 engine mounted but run. If u are interested I can list it in engines classified. PM me (fijiman)

J330

My Feedback: (3)

O rings fail to seal sometimes as they age.

the pope

Then its time for them to be replaced . Just part of maintenance . Cheers

1QwkSport2.5r

Have fun getting the o-rings out of a ST needle valve. Better yet have fun getting a new one back in without mangling it. It seems they install the o-ring before pressing the needle valve itself into the knurled "knob". Perhaps there's more to the story, but I invite any and all to share how they changed those o-rings. None of my old ancient ST needle valves leak much. I don't really worry about that l.

J330

My Feedback: (3)

You can get them in Australia still? Good for you!
No distributor in my google search reveals ST needle valve O rings for a 40 are in stock here in the US, not to mention other parts. "Maintenance bits" may not even be necessary, but if so...

7 years since my last Tigre, forgot what was missing on the carb. Thanks again, for the info on the carb.
Added:
Oh, thanks 1QwkSport2.5, that's another confirmation silicone will be the improvise only if I have a leak, but I doubt it. Don't know why it was the focal point anyway.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

There is a spring in side the high speed needle, I just take a push pin and pick the O-ring right out. All you do to install the new one is slide it over the needle and screw the needle on to the carb. Easy Peasy.

J330

My Feedback: (3)

Where is the new o ring? Need my address?