qldviking

How do you post photo's on here?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Click on the "post reply" icon at the bottom left of this post

Then to the left just under the editing box, you see "Click here to upload images and files"

If that doesn't get you going - get back on here and one of us will take you the rest of the way

qldviking

w8ye, thank you it looks like working

qldviking

Ok I finally got a couple photo's of one of the ST6000's modified. This one has a solid backplate mounted over the original which has had a 3/8 hole drilled in the recess. This equalises the pulsing pressure/vacumn waves between the front and rear cylinders and prevents the rear cylinder leaning out. The ducting looks close, but actually worked well in the tight cowl of an early bipe, and after many hours themotor still has no issues and has very even compression, within 5psi. The exghaust is home made, and is surprisingly quiet.

stg61abc

Hi Sodbuster. Appear that you have a ST 45 "S" (round head version) and the ST 45 "K". The K series is more modern then the "S". To my Knowledge, they are similar in performance. Both series were made in ringed and ABC versions. Do you have a pic from the second 45??

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

The engine with the dished cylinder head is a "K" series. I had the .40 version. Mine was ringed. It was a great running engine, was very reliable and it idled and transitioned beautifully. Mine had excellent compression from day one.

Unfortunately, my K&B .40 and OS .40H & P engines were more powerful. I expected more from a Super Tigre. My buddies identical S40K was slightly more powerful than mine for no reason that I could detect.

The K series was introduced in the very early Eighties.

The square head version came along later on and was more powerful than the early K series. I've owned the G90, but that is the only size in that series, which is really based upon the .60 sized crankcase.


Ed Cregger

smaze17

My Feedback: (60)

Hi guys. I am thinking of purchasing a ST 3250 and getting the Red Jett carb for it. Was also going to get a Slimline side mounted Pitts muffler. Any suggestions for a successful endeavour? Do I really need to pinch one of the muffler stacks closed?

Also, was thinking I should break the engine in with this exact set-up too...

Thanks in advance.....it is for a Great Planes Pitts Special...

Spencer

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

I picked up another ST. The more of these things I get, the more I like them. This one is a slightly used S.75. It looks almost new inside, the bearings are even in good shape. It was missing its muffler, so I put a new silent muffler on it. I'll try to run it soon. I've got some Rev Up 12x 7 1/2's. Would this be a good prop? I'll also try an APC 12x7 and 12x8.

David

fabmaster911

Dang bro your LHS is going to love you if you fly that 6000 much.

Gabe53

I would like to install an O.S. carb on my ST .90. However, I don't know which one will fit. Could someone inform me as to the type to order and, if possible, the performance I can expect.

Gabe

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I would use a Super Tiger carb if it were my engine

Your carb has a 14.9mm or .589" shank

Perry Replacement carb #4500 .340 /.590 $46.50 http://www.perrypumps.com/prod01.htm (This carb will work perfect on your engine with a minimum of fuss)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8254038/tm.htm (OS 7L replacement like was on OS 61SF?)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFW10&P=ML (Super Tiger 90 carb)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSCL0&P=7 (OS 75AX carb)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCA49&P=7 (No needle valve) (OS 91FX carb)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCA63&P=7 (No needle valve) (OS 61 FX carb)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMW56&P=ML (Needle valve)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGBG0&P=V (needle valve holder)

qldviking

My lhs hates me, They only carry some nasty brand of premix which looks like its 10 yrs past its use by date, all sperated and gunky looking and at $19.95 a litre [:'(]
I mix my own, and run all my tigres on 5:1 with no nitro, so fuel isnt too bad at all. My YS motors are a different story, I run all of them on 30% nitro and that tickles the wallet [&:]

fabmaster911

I put an OS 7L on that I had kicking around and it runs great. It got rid of that fat midrange problem.

plasticjoe

My Feedback: (22)

I just picked up a G4500 for a Sig Sundancer Giant scale.... I have read online that these like methanol and castor.... I have heard 5 gallons methanol and a quart of castor would be a good mix. Opinions ? I know the G4500 is a "thirsty" motor... but this sounds like a good way to go... I also have a ST90 on another plane that would also benefit from this if it's a good way to go. Opinions ?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

that mix wouldn't work for the 90

I don't know anything about the 4500

qldviking

I use methanol/synthectic at 5:1 on my motors 20cc and up to my ST600, they all run well on it. Thats 1 quart oil to 5 quarts methanol. I have never seen any gain from nitro that was worth the effort

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

That's a 20:1 methanol/oil ratio. That's only 4.76% oil (if my math is correct). ST recommends 10% to 12% oil in the larger engines like the 4500, after the engine is broken in. An 8:1 methanol/oil ratio would give you 11% oil.

David

plasticjoe

My Feedback: (22)

what would work for the 90 ?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Castor in the 18 to 20% range

On the 90 and based on where you live it is probably best to use 5%-10% nitro fuel from the hobby shop but get some with a little castor oil in it or add the castor oil yourself

The Methanol in Australia is different that the methanol you are going to get in Dayton OH.

The Australian Methanol has a few points of Acetone in it. This acts as an ignition stabilizer

If you mix some in the US with just Methanol and caster the needle valve will be on the sensitive side and the engine will have a ragged sound to it. At least that's my experience running home brew in a ST46 forty years ago.

plasticjoe

My Feedback: (22)

I might just keep running the low nitro premix for the 90... and mix my own for the 4500
So basically a 5:1 ratio..... whatever unit of measure you use..... 1 gallon castor to 5 of methanol... or 1 quart casto to 5 quarts methanol... etc
that still seems cheaper to run in the 4500 than buying a gallon of premix every time you fly.....

new question now.... good source for a good castor ? haha

qldviking

I run cool power synthetic, and have done for years with no adverse effects, good castor here is getting to be like hens teeth. I buy methanol in bulk (200L drums), and I get methanol for about the same price as gas doing so. I also sell to others so its win win all round. My biggest problem is nitro for my YS engines []

balsaeater

I dont find the cost to use methanol in my 26cc MVVS and 30cc Saito too big an issue > I get the methanol by the gallon and the EDL synthetic by the half gallon and the nitro by the half gallon.Mix is 10% oil 5% nitro and fuel consumtion is on mid gas is about 1 onz per minute or 2 onz per minute WOT. The difference is WOT with the glow engine is easily 25% more than most gassers of same CC

Based on that I would probably opt soon to get 200Liters of methanol and chase up a few bigger second hand Supertigers like 30cc 35cc and 60CC or failing that get other makes of glow motors of similar power and dimensions


The methanol fuel consumption is about 1/3 more than a gasser and as my local prices for Methanol in 200L are about 50% more than gas I estimate it costs twice the price than running a gasser,However unless I drop my electrics which I fly a lot at the same time the few flight every weekend about one gallon of glow a weekend don't make it worth it for me to switch over to gassers full time.If however I was doing three gallon s a week of glow fuel then getting a gasser might be more interesting to keep costs down

Certianly more than 60cc I would change to gassers


Balaseater

downunder

That's only with Shell Racing A which has 3% acetone but they only sell it in their own new drums so that adds to the purchase price. All other brands (mainly BP) are sold from bulk and are straight methanol.

qldviking
I'm getting castor here in Adelaide for $8 a litre and there's a guy near Melbourne who sells it for about the same (plus postage). This is the ad he runs in a Victorian newsletter.
"Castor oil for sale!
Highest quality first pressing de gummed.
Price: $40 for 5 litres (including container) + P&H
$10 in Victoria
$15 SA, TAS & NSW
$20 QLD, WA & NT
Premixed diesel fuel also available – POA
Ph Ken 03 9398 8244
Email: [email protected]"

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

here's my .03cents worth. back in the thread mentioned turning carb barrell to adjust or rather correct midrange load up and bad transion thru midrange i read years ago about this, i can't remember all the details, i saved the notes on which way to twist the barrel to enrichen or lean out the midrange, but can't remember where they went either. must be old age. if s/tigre is having carb probems as many in this thread have addressed, maybe s/tigre should look at what fox did some yrs. back when guys were slamming their carbs. and performance probs. they made aviab. a perry carb. mounted on a carb. adapter sold this combo with their .60 eagles, i bought several of these and they ran great. i put a perry on a .61 fox hawk and it ran very good, idle/mid/wot. i have put perrys and some os 7d, when they were avaib., on many of my s/tigres .51's-4500's. over all i don't think anyone can go wrong w/sup. tigre engines. they run strong, great price, and will last a long time, if taken care of. i bought mine when they were made in italy. haven't had any experience w/chin. made ones tho.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I used to have a lot of Super Tigers and I always thought the original Super Tiger carbs were the greatest.

One of my Super Tigers (A Como 40) had a Perry carb. It ran great too. I got it in a horse trade. I don't know if it came that way from Indy R/C?