N429EM

Odd. I used a 9/32 drill bit and it fit perfectly.

Shaft measured .275"
9/32 drill is .281"

.006" difference and it's nice a secure.

Whatever, it's on.

EJ

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I started breaking in this new SuperTigre .51 today, it took 60 minutes to burn 12 oz of fuel at all part throttle operation. I ran it at 4,000 rpm for 10 minutes,
5,000 for 15 minutes, while running at the 5,000 rpm throttle setting it actually increased to 5,800
15 more minutes at 6,000, it gradually incrrased to 6,100
15 minutes at 6,500
10 minutes at 7,000

Will put 16 more oz throught it an go for top rpm.
Fuel is WildCat 5% with 18% 80/20 lube
Prop is Bolly 12.5x6
Plug==stock

It is noteable that there is not a single drop of oil where it should not be.

[email protected]

I started breaking in a new ST 45 GS ABC this week. The owners manual says to use a 10/7 or 10/8 prop. I used a 10/8 APC prop. I can't tell that the engine is running any better after running five 8 OZ. tanks of fuel through it. It tachs 9,000 rpm at WOT. I put a 9/7 prop on it yesterday and it tachs 14,000. I am using Omega FAI fuel with no nitro and the stock glow plug. The engine will run 14 minutes on the 8 OZ. tank at WOT. It idles beautifully and goes from idle to WOT with no lag or delay.
How do I know when the engine is broken in enough to install on an airplane?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Cap, most ABC engines are good to go in about 10 to 20 minutes. When it will hold max rpm without slowing after a few secomds at full throttle, it's ready.

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

Running the engine that slowly is a sure way to guarantee it won't last too long. You really can't break it in well unless it's at full throttle. With the time you spent running it so slowly, you could have it ready to fly and properly-adjusted if it was started-out at full throttle in "4-cycle" mode and gradually leaned. The 65 minutes you ran it is plenty of time to get it well-run and ready to fly. We'd use an 11 x 6 or 7 prop and let it turn up.

If you want to moderate RPM during initial running, we'd suggest that you run the engine wide-open and moderate RPM with a very rich mixture. Running it as rich as possible without quitting for 5 minutes or so before you begin the leaning process won't hurt a thing, but using the throttle to run it so slowly really doesn't help the engine.

We look for an RPM of about 12,500-13,000 when on the ground and leaned to just rich of peak RPM. That's a very good range for it that gives you good throttle response and makes the carb fairly easy to set. If your prop won't let it turn that high, then you need a prop with less diameter or less pitch.

Once broken-in, the engine will give many years of excellent performance, with proper care.

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

You need to prop the engine so that it runs around 12,500-13,000 RPM when leaned to just rich of peak RPM on the ground. Whatever prop gives that RPM is the "correct" prop. 14K is a tad high. RPM will be lower with FAI fuel, but just re-prop it to bring the RPM up. 9,000 is too low and is not good for the engine. Either use a different-brand prop of the same size or use a completly-different prop size.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Bax, today, if I get a chance I'll run it at full throttle, I have an old .51, bought when the .51 was first released, it has served me well for many years as a Diesel.

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

hobbsey, let me add 1 more thing on abc type engs. pick a nitro percentage, say 15%, and stick with it. abc eng like to run at the temp. they were run in at and with the same nitro content. if you work with that abc's will last for a long time, if you don't they won't, just the nature of the beast. they are not as forgiving as ringed engs. in the tolerance department and in dirty conditions.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Fuji, I've said for a long time that as soon as you fire up an ABC engine you're wearing it out whereas a ringed engine has a long long stable period between break in and actually showing wear.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

This is more about Frank Bowman and his rings but it is a SuperTigre that I rebuilt. The engine has always had soft leaky compression, it was well used when I got it. Thursday I recieved two of Franks rings and I'll have to say, "what a difference". Even unrun the ring had very good compresion holding ability. I wish I had a new piston too but that's coming in February. It was quite a chore to clean the old ring groove so the new ring would slide in and out easily. I ran 16oz of 5% WildCat with 18% lube through it, it wasn't happy with that fuel but I just want to break it in for Diesel use. The prop was an APC 18w, did not tach yet.

edalves68

I'm looking for a litle help, I have an X.11 Super tigre, I need a needle valve for it, does anyone have the part number or any info on it. Will that engine except a G20 .15 needle valve? Thanks in advance for any information.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Yes, IIRC, all Super Tigre engines utilize the same needle valve.

There is/was a third party manufacturer selling needle valves for Super Tigre engines. Ernst? I can't remember, but there should be plenty of needle valves available in the old style.

Perhaps Bax could jump in and tell us whether the new Super Tigre needle valves will sub satisfactorily? TIA


Ed Cregger

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

I just aquired a used Italian made .45 Super Tigre, put it on a SPAD and I have to say I'm impressed. I did notice it is more sensitive to proper needle adjustment than my O.S. and Magnum engines and does't want to run at more than 1 1/2 turns out. I also noticed it doesn't like the O.S. A3 or #8 plugs, but does run fine with an idle bar plug. I also noticed it uses less fuel than my other engines, yet the barrel and intake opening are larger than my O.S. and Magnum .46's. Does this have anything to do with the reduced fuel consumption, or is it something else?

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

ALL.. I just bought an old Royal Models Stuka with a ST G90 mounted. The limited history is that the plane has never flown (not quite finished) and the engine ran a few times. Not sure how old the G90 is or what it came off of.

Engine.. Italy made G90. Clean and ok shape. This is my first ST. Right off the bat I see the threads for the exhaust stud is broken off of the case. Didn't come with an exhaust/muffler. Handpropping it - seems tight but with compression. My first impression is it is too tight and maybe a bearing issue?! Now I am not forcing it to turn, but its not as easy to spin as my OS .40/.46s and Saito 72 / 125s . I am very hesiative to start the engine fearing to damage it further...

Since the case is broken already - how hard is it to breakdown and transfer to new case? Will a new case even work with an older engine? Special tools? Any other tests to perform? A new one cost $170 ish. Better to just get a new or different engine?

Thanks for your input.


Update: I used my after-run oil all inside the exhaust and plug hole. After some careful turning it has really loosened up. Still dragging a little on the shaft some. It seems no matter what I will need a new case from the broken threads.

Are the new ones (towerhobbies,,etc) from China? Will they work on this italian made one? Bearings..etc. I added up the parts from tower: front & rear bearings, new case, and exhaust stack is around $90 ish... and no muffler yet. I know the large OEM style will really be in the way and a pitts style is more likely to fit inside the cowl. I will post a few pics shortly.

Thanks again Gurus!

Thoughts!?

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

forget repairing it. buy a new one, only a few dallors more and they come with stack and muffler.

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

hi supertigre gurus. i'm in desperate need of a cyl. head for my s.t. 4500. i bought the eng. from a guy here on rcu and the dang post office played soccer with the box and 1/2 the fins were broken off. if you have an extra (?) my email is [email protected]

Matagordababy

Try Tower Hobbies - they are a good source for 'Tigre parts, and advertise a new crankcase for $65. UNFORTUNATELY they also say "March" Delivery...

There are bound to be others out there though. If I turn up anything better I'll give you a whistle.

Matagordababy

Matagordababy

Sorry Dude - wrong part! Tower Hobbies ALSO advertises a New Cylinder Head for $30, but the availability is the same - Late March.

Matagordababy

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

everyone that i can order from also says march, every time i checked they keep pushing the date out further. frustrating!!!!!!

Matagordababy

Unfortunately, I had the same experience. I waited for a pair of Box Mufflers for my ST-6000 for over a year, and they finally cancelled the order altogether.

I went with Wrap-Around Pitts Style instead - those are easy enough to find.

Matagordababy

FLYINGFOOL*2007

[:@]Ok gents, I am finging it almost impossible to fly 3D! My brother has a sim. that has a Gyro option and thats the cat's meoww! I can do it like that. I see adds for Gyros, Are they for installing in planes and Helping perform 3D? Can SOMEBODY give me a quick run down on this Please!? I have the aircraft that will do this but not the Know how apperantly. not doing something right!


Fly it like it aint yours![>:]

BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

Could someone tell me the approx needle settings for the ST G-90. Esp the low speed, I know they are all a bit different but there is bound to be a ball park area to start out in. My low speed right now is about 4.5 turns out and the high speed about 2.5 and its running rough. At 2 3/4 out its really chokes on fuel. The engine only has about 1/2 gallon of fuel right ran threw so far. I have never had so many problems getting a engine to set up right, seems there is no sweet spot on the engine.

qldviking

I cant speak for the smaller motors, my smallest ST is the 25cc. I have 9 now up to the 60cc twin, and they were all bears till they had at least 2 gallons fuel thru them and run in properly. I found an onboard glo was useful during break in, set to switch on between idle and 1/4 throttle.
Your settings do seem a bit much tho, I am running in another 25cc , and after 3/4 gallon the needles are at 1 3/4 low end and 2 1/8 hi. I have rotated the spraybar about 30 degrees, which helped enormously with transition

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

You do not set the idle needle by "number of turns". You must remove the carb and set the idle mixture so that it blocks one-half of the hole in the spraybar when the carb is opened is at full throttle. You remove the carb so that you can look into the bottom to see the position of the idle needle.

Please go into the SuperTigre Direct Support forum and see the sticky on setting your ST carb.

BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

Bax, I have removed the carb and adjusted the hole in sparybar as noted. I also rotated the spray bar a tad,,,, maybe 15 degrees. I have not had a chance to run it since adjustments, I will let you know how it goes, thanks for the information. It seemed to be just shy of half before adjusting. Hopefully it will run better and transition to full throttle without choking down. This is a easy job once you get the cowling removed and get the engine out, wish I had known this the first time. I have had a couple of these in the past but they were pretty good out of the box, seems my high speed ran about 2 3/4 open, on my previous ST .90
Thanks,
Brad