fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

if you have fuel draw/lean out problems, mid range problems, some guys have had great success using the OS 7D carb. (or now the carb off a OS 1.60) but the 7D's are getting hard to find. i got mine a few years ago when tower hobby stocked them. every now and then someone has 1 for sale and/or you can post a wanted ad here on rcu or you can keep your eyes peeled on ebay in the toys and hobby section. and as i mentioned in my reply last, you mite have to plug up 1 of the exhaust stacks if you are running a bisson or slimline muffler to keep the press up in the tank to min. lean out and fuel delivery probs. also you can go with the walbro wt-499 alky carb. got mine from Dave's Discount Motors on the web. the adapter from eng. to carb. i got from horizon hobby online in the evo 26 or 35cc parts section, fits the ST carb. bore in eng. perfectly. they have the adapter w/o-ring, studs and ni-lock nuts, locator bushings, and insulator, everything you will need. you will have to drill and tap into the crank case for case pressure to operate the pump in the alky carb, but you already have that done on your eng. with this setup the tank position is no longer an issue as the pump in carb. can draw and deliver fuel from a long way so now you will be able to locate the tank on or very close to the c/g of the aircraft. plus it dosn't require muffler press., although it won't hurt any and you stand less chance of vent line drawing fuel from tank in flite. i have used the walbro set up on my ST 2500's, and 4500's with great success. 1 more hint, i do run on board glow as a precaution.........no more flame outs for me!!! happy flying, i hope you have great success and fun with your projects. i think good info can be had if you take time to read the treads on Super Tigres here on rcu.

ALWAYS REMEMBER TO FLY IN THE MIDDLE OF THE AIR, IT'S NOT SAFE TO FLY AT THE EDGES!!!!!!!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The best use for the crankase pressure tap is to pressurize the tank and use a Cline or IronBay regulator. You'll get full to empty consistency and you can drag the tank behind the plane if you want to.

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

good add on hobbsy. never tryed that setup before, but sounds good. who sells those fuel regs.?????

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

www.billsroom.com/pcfs

PCFS stands for proportional control fuel system

Sport_Pilot

Every regulator made is proportional control, as well as many other control systems. If they wanted something to crow about they would come up with a PID fuel control system. LOL

coachdavis10

For those of you who plug one port on the big tigers mufflers, how are you doing that??? what are ya"ll using???

flyingspig

My Feedback: (7)

Between OS BGX1, OS 160 2 stroke and ST 4500, which has more power and by how much? Are thesestrong enoughfor 85" Yak or 97" GeeBee Y ? Anyone can answer... please

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

The 160fx is 26cc, the BGX is 35cc, and the ST is 45cc. The supertigre is the most powerful for sure. Glow engines of this size are not popular because they are far into gas engine territory of 30-40cc and up. In general a 85" Yak will need a 50-55cc gas power, so the ST might have the power to fly it. As for the Gee Bee, I have no idea.

coachdavis10

Hey flyingspig,
I have my ST 4500 in the big blue Hangar 9 Sukhoi. It has enought to power to roll, loop, inverted flight, split S's and so on. The guy I got the plane from can hang it on the prop somewhat. He's not a 3D guy but he does it a litttle and its up high. He had a DA 85 on it and he likes the ST much better. I guess its just preference. I'm not a RD guy and I love the match. Run a glow driver, low nitro, and be patient cause the big cat takes time to break in.

qldviking

I have several ST-4500's, and have been very happy with them, I run approx 25% hi is synthetic and no nitro. Last plane I had one of these in was an 84" scratch built katana, and the motor had no issues pulling the plane around with a 22x8 prop. As mentioned, these motors seem to take forever to run in, but once run in and tuned correctly are very reliable with few if any deadsticks. I run 4 stroke plugs with the idle bar and my preference is to use tuned pipes. I dont know how the pitts style mufflers work on the 4500's, I had to partially close both holes to make my 3000 run right. I did this usingthick wall alloy pipe that was a snug fit and glued in with locktite bearing lock.

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

i'm running a walbro wt-499 alky. carb, adapter and tapped into crank case the get needed pulse press. to operate pump in carb. had to cut back a few fins in the rear of eng. to clear carb. not a problem. really helped fuel delivery. i also run a OS ''f'' plug, on board glow ign. extra head gasket, 5% nitro for better idle and trans. to hi speed. i really like this setup as it works good for me, lots of power!!!!!

zippome

Ok guys,I had a lil mishap with my ST .45 when my receiver batt died on me as i was setting up my approach to land. Plane crashed,pretty much totalling out the cheap arf airframe. The problem lies in the fact that when the plane hit, the carb rotated in its setting and snapped the fuel nipple off flush with where it threads into the spray bar. Can the threaded piece be extracted without ruing the spray bar, or should I just replace the whole assembly. Or should I just replace the whole carb so I wont have to try to get the spray bar back in the correct position. I'm gonna have to replace the pressure nipple on the muffler,as it sheared off as well. Are there easy outs available that small, or should I just drill and tap? Thanks guys.

Desertlakesflying

My Feedback: (28)

Super Tigre's are all about where the fuel nipple is pointed no matter what size 2 stroke it is, or what position the engine is in.

Fuel nipple pointed at the rear mounting hole on the engine and it will run like a dream.

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

It looks as though it is one piece there. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFZ31&P=Z

Here is the complete assy for just $2 more......... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFY26&P=Z


Getting the spraybay positioned right is simple, no need to replace the entire carb if it is not damaged. Check over the crankcase wher the carb mounts as it is sometimes damaged in a big crash and then you will have air leaking under the carb.

Good Luck

zippome

Thanks Rcdude, I think the complete assembly is the way to go. I inspected the whole engine, and other than the broken fuel and muffler pressure nipples , it looks good.

biggbear

Looks like Supertigre's on sale at Tower.

Just picked up another 2300., price is right!

Bj

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Super Tigre engines represent a fantastic value for modellers with the patience to learn how to break them in and adjust them properly.


Ed Cregger

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

Yes, that is about $30 less than the usual price, I wonder if tower is getting ready to discontinue them?

Use this code along with the free shipping before june 1st and the final price is just $115 shipped

$15 off $125
010HN

biggbear

Ok,- New ST-2300, 17/8 Apc prop, 15% Cool Power, on the test stand.
2-3/4 turns out on the high speed needle, low speed needle opened until you can hear air coming thru it (at just above idle), OS-F plug.
10 turns Choked, started on the 3rd flip.
Even with a really rich low end, still didn't stall out after idling for 20-30 seconds. Almost, but still caught the full application of throttle, was just a bit slow to spool up. Ran a 12 oz tank thru it leaning it out breifly every 3 min or so, getting 8200 rich on the tach on the second tank. Leaned out at least 1/2 turn on the low speed, will still need more. Transition much better.

Will run one more tank full, then put it away till the AT-6 is ready.

Bj.

biggbear

Try plugging it off with JB Weld. Have used it sucsessfully on headers, so should plug off one of the pipes ok. If not, it will just melt/blow out, or if you want to get rid of it later, you can just drill it out. You could also drill out the pipe, and put a small bolt thru it first, kind of like making a rivet for the JB Weld to grab on to.

Bj

Matagordababy

Just a suggestion Sir - consider running a few more tanks through it, fat and rich. leaning occasionally (as you have been doing), then cooling with rich settings before it shuts down. You will NOT hurt it, but you will continue breaking it in. We've found that the big Tigre's are much like the old Enya's. When they are young, they are tempermental and prone to unexpected in-flight flame outs. Once they've a few hours on them, always getting a little leaner and a bit higher RPM, they become a "wonder engine". They'll start after a flip or two, idle slow and low, and transition to full scream with no hesitation. You have to run them out of fuel or drive them into the ground to get them to stop running - they just do not quit.

Just a suggestion...

Matagorababy [&:]

biggbear

Suggestion taken, Matagordababy!
Besides, the Wife said she appreciated all that oil sprayed on her Plants, so will oblige once again!

Anyhoo, this is actually my second 2300. First one from about a decade ago, 2300 with Perry Pump and Carb in a Pattern ship.
Only time this engine ever quit was when #1- I ran it out of fuel. #2-when I spun off the Prop and Spinner.
I'm very impressed with the ease of operation of this engine, the power, and don't see much difference between the Italian and Chinese versions.
May have to rotate the spraybar a bit to clean up the midrange some more, as suggested by CowboyLifesaver, but will do that after a few more runs.

Note of interest. Threw the original 2300 on the stand as well, full of after run oil, original OS-F plug from days gone by, 10-12 flips of the prop, and away she went. Pump spewing fuel (shot), but still ran just fine. Even the bearings don't seem too bad at this point, but will see.

Bj

Matagordababy

They are HARD to beat at the price! I know some people have had a tough go with them, but to date all of ours are crowd pleasers. (That's my Brother, youngest Son and I - we all run the big Tigres). I've Engines I enjoy more, but not from a standpoint of value or dependability - they are just cool to see run and sound nice too!

When near to the ground, keep the dirty side down!

Matagordababy

rebranger

biggbear

Check out the Carb part #'s, according to Perry website the non-pump carb # is the 4501. -pumped carb # is 9500.

http://www.perrypumps.com/prod01.htm#super

The 5001 is standard carb for the 2300 engine, 5002 is the pumped version.

Possibly wrong carb, you said 5100?? or just a typo??

Also, if no pump, standard carb, make sure the hole/vent in the backplate is plugged off


Bj