hsukaria

Yep!! I will take it apart this evening. Will report any findings.

1QwkSport2.5r

I have my fingers crossed its something simple and easy. Good luck.

OLDNRINKLED

My Feedback: (5)

I use to run my ST 51 with 15 percent nitro and added 1 ounce of lowlead gasoline to a gallon of model fuel. Shake well and have fun flying. Always had easy starting and no carb changing after warm engine running. Also ran better in winter here in Michigan.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

This might be a source for SuperTigre parts http://www.toysonics.com/

I used him years ago but don't know if he still carries parts, but it might be worth a shot.

Just my $.02

Bob

1QwkSport2.5r

That site has current production engines with the same pricing as Tower. For those looking for Italian parts for Italian engines, I suggest *bay. I dislike Ebay considerably, but when I need parts, that is the only place I've found them. If anyone knows of another reliable source for Italian ST parts, I'd love to know about it. I have some parts I'd like to have on-hand for my old S series Tigres.

hsukaria

Thanks for the advice.

I took apart the engine except the crankshaft and bearings. Am I supposed pull out the prop hub first? I never did bearings work on ST engines. I checked the conrod bushings, piston ring groove, and liner surface. All that is good. I am pretty sure that the rattling noise are the bearings. I will purchage new bearings from RCBearings, and new piston ring from Frank Bowman.

I just don't know how to remove the crankshaft from the crankcase.

1QwkSport2.5r

Remove the prop driver from the engine in the same fashion as any other. Heat it up a little bit, grip the prop driver carefully and with the propnut on the crankshaft, give it a whack with a piece of wood. It should pop right off. If its stubborn, use a little more heat.

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

the prop hub is just connected to the crank on a tapered brass, split cone. what i do is heat the ''short block'' assy. in the kit. oven at about 300 degrees for about 5-8 mins. then with an ove-glove or a kit. mit, to keep from burning myself, i give the prop stud a whack with a piece of wood as soon as it leaves the oven. sometimes the assy. will come apart by just raping the short block on the piece of wood on it's backside or where the back plate mounts. some guys also remove the prop hub with a ''small'' gear type puller. then heat and remove the crank and brgs. together. some also heat crank case using a propane torch leaving the crank cold. but it IS best if you remove the prop hub and tapered brass cone first, makes things a bunch easier. hope this helps you.

hsukaria

thanks for the ideas. I have done this before on a Fox engine. But this one is a lot more stubborn. I'll keep trying.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Just for the record, when I used Toysonics, it was to get parts for an old G-21 .46 which hasn't been made in a while, so the dealer may have some parts in the back room. I think I phoned him rather than rely on what was on the website. It doesn't cost anything to call...

Just my $.02

Bob

hsukaria

ok, I got the engine totally apart. The only thing that seems worn is the rear bearing feels scratchy. But does that cause the occassional engine rattle?

I am also toying with the idea of selling/trading the disassembled engine since I don't have a plane to put it in. My two other Supertigres are Chinese-made and I am happy with them. I don't have a need to get into the Italian-made scene.

1QwkSport2.5r

If the piston and liner are in good condition, I might take it off your hands. I only collect Italian Tigres. Pm me if you want to part with it.

mgoodwin

Greetings tigremen.
I Have a ringed 45 trash can motor, took about a gallon of fuel to break in. starts 2nd flip, vicious kickback on first. Never seen this much compression before. Fox long Rc plug with Idlebar cut off. 3% Acetone 17% klotz super, MA 10-6 slightly narrowed. needle settings have to be precise. On test stand vertical no change in RPMl, instant transition, does not seem to be affected by fuel in tank level or tank height. 14100RPMS slightly rich, good Idle wil Idle for 40 minutes, Loud, 80 F. Starts at 1/3 throttle 2nd flip, backwards! Breeze blowing forward from prop! 3500RPMS. Shut glow plug down, almost completely dies, reverses direction, breeze from the back goes to 6000 RPMs Runs great ready for airframe. I have had a 6V-92 Turbo Detroit Diesel 2 stroke truck engine pull down and almost die, I dump the clutch, it bounces back in reverse smoke out the aircleaners no oil pressure shut it down. I understand the tigres can run backwards by rotatinging the front plate 90 degrees, this one has a solid front plate. suspect the reversed power would be down. please somebody enlighten me!

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

being a diesel mechanic for years i have seen ''a few of them'' reverse when they idle TOO low of an rpm. 2 stk engs. and hi-compression diesels can do this. Had a kubota 6500 series generator 2cyl diesel eng. that would do this if the spill timing was set too advanced. You could adj. the eng. injection timing for hi-altitude operation and at sea level, if the throttle was advance to quickly the dang thing would start running backwards, and they are 4 stk. type engs!!!!! So yes some diesels can reverse themselves like your Detroit 2 stk. truck did. Most of our 2 stk. model engs. will do the same as they are semi-diesel engs.. You said the tigre has super compression and most of the european engs. are hi-compression because they can't afford nitro so they run mostly 0% nitro. So here we go, it seems that the eng. is under proped, and it is losing some flywheel effect, along with super hi european compression, and maybe too much nitro (you didn't say what %), too low idle, all these could be what is causing your kick back and reversing problems. Also too hot of a glow plug can advance the ign. timing in our engs. and can cause all sorts of problems like yours and others too. So you can do some retuning or should i say de-tuning, lower the compression with an extra head gasket and use larger prop say 11''x 6''p, run lower % nitro fuel say 0- 5%. Of course d-tuning will cause eng. to lose some hi end power, but these mods. will tame the beast. Do these in steps and retest the results after each change you make. Hope this helps.

AJsToyz

Took some advise from this thread and lowered the nitro down to 5% and was totally surprised on how much better it ran. It's only a little ringed .40 but it was kicking some tail! Biggest thing was it took that real tech midrange away, runs much better, smoother transition.

Wish I would have read this thread a few years ago when I had the same trouble with my .90

Andy

1QwkSport2.5r

That's one of the things that really aggravates people with ST engines that try running 15% nitro in them. They don't need a lot of nitro to run well. I've run true FAI fuel in my .90 and it ran well on it though it lost about 800rpm from 5% nitro.

Keep it a little rich and keep the nitro low and it will run forever. They'll idle down to 1300-1400rpm after a couple gallons. The slow tickover is neat to watch.

hsukaria

Yep!!! I just did that too and was pleasantly surprised.

AJsToyz

I have what looks to be a brand new Italian ABC .45, so I will need to break that one in. Just picked up a K&B .48 because the Super Tigres were running so rich on the mid range, now I have an extra! LOL

It is still totally amazing that all I dropped was from 10% down to 5% and it ran that much better. I also have a gallon home brew from my Moki 2.10 and about two gallons of 5% with straight castor from the Moki. I was getting reading to try a colder glow plug but as long as the .45 runs as good as the .40 I don't see a point to.

Andy

mgoodwin

Thank you very much Fujiman. I have never used nitro. The mild prop is for breakin. I was going to one of my cut down from 12" or 11". 10 3/4x7 and 11 1/4x5 that put out almost double the thrust on a Fox 50 with less noise. They were to be tried next. I ran out of Klotz and mixed up some 17% 30 year old yellowing Sig castor with no nitro and no kickback no runninng backwards, exhaust note is not as sharp. midrange is rich need to fiddle with that. Plenty of lube for my sliding test stand thrust guage from the exhaust. WoW

Chris.fr

My Feedback: (1)

I hope it's the right place for vintage S.T. too, here is a nice one:

hsukaria

Amazing!!

1QwkSport2.5r

I'm Jealous.. That is really cool.

Chris.fr

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, these vintage Super Tigre have a unique touch, I love them!

hsukaria

You're killing me!!!

DaveFri

My Feedback: (7)

Has anyone had good luck with a Perry Carb #4500 on a ST-90K? MY ST carb just doesn't seem to cut it.Transition is not good from lo to hi...have worked and worked with it.Was wondering if a Perry might fit it?

Thx,Dave