outacontrol41

My Feedback: (9)

I have what seems to be an unstable O.S. 90 four-stroke without the pump. Seems the glow plug looses heat at certain times and stays hot others. I've wrecked to planes due to this problem. I'm using an O.S. F plug and it starts and runs fine, but very unreliable....could dead-stick anytime without warning. Therefore, I've decided to go with the setup shown below. Question is, how long will the two AA batteries last and can I go with higher mAh for longer flights? Actually, I've already got this installed in my H9 Twist using two Energizer batteries and it starts on them by just flipping the switch....which is kinda cool - eliminates battery box and twist on ignitors. Anyone else using this setup and if so how do you like it? Thanks.

KI8FR

If you are haveing truble with you engine this will work but it is more like you fuel is what is makeing you engine do this. I have found that when I get to the botem of my fuel this can happen.. I do not know why. When my fuel can gets to about 1/4 emt I fill my fuel can back up.

You can try running lower nitro. that will give you more methanel in you fuel. the methenal is what keeps you plug going.

Paul

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

....if your system is correct, you do not need a full time source of power to the glow plug.
In fact....when the battery power is applied to the plug, it results in a much hotter plug than
what it is normally. This can throw off your tuning, as well as have negative results....such
as detonation and overheating.

The system you have is fine, but use a switch so that it is only "on" at 1/4 throttle and less,
not all the time.

FBD.

outacontrol41

My Feedback: (9)

Not familiar with a 'switch'...is this homemade rig or storebought? Like a push-button gizmo you get from Radio Shack that activates when throttle arm touches it? Is there a diagram available? Thanks for the input.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

....use a micro-switch that bumps against the throttle servo arm at 1/4 throttle
or less. Some micro swicthes have a metal arm on them, that actually pushes
the switch into the "closed" position. "Closed" means where it is connected, and
making the circuit.

FBD.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I one time used a switch like this one from Radio Shack to actuate the glow driver. The spring lever allows some flexibility in the travel range of your servo.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

outacontrol41

My Feedback: (9)

Guys....good ideas. But be truthful, wouldn't I be better off just to get an onboard glowdriver that when hooked to the throttle channel, will do all that for me? This push button rigging is sort of taking away the simplicity of it. The only thing I've noticed so far, and I havn't flown it yet, is that when I flip the switch to 'on', the rpm's jump up by about 200 or so....so I have to trim the throttle back slightly. I've read others use this the simple way (no switches) with no problems. Is it possible they are not noticing the problems that can occur with the engine according to Flyboy Dave?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Right now if I were going to install on board glow, I would use the new Dubro system.

Nathan King

You really shouldn't need one. The only time I would add one is if I have a prized plane with super-high wing loading that could never make it back. Is your low-end set optimally? I see rich low ends constantly on training nights (often with lean high ends). What about the glow plug? If you are loosing so many RPM's after the igniter is removed then you may be looking at a plug that isn't reacting with the methanol properly.