Carosel43

Put the 400 in it, that will make it go! In other news.......the sea fury has landed and apart from the wing joiners being made from soft cheese (some variety of brie I think) I am very pleased all in all. As expected the 450 will not fit, by quite a margin, so I will try the 400 when I have the chance. What will fit however is a Laser 360v! so if all else fails some twin cylinder action will be in order

BJ64

Had a bit of a problem sourcing the SKF 619 /4 bearings.

Best I could do was a pair of SKF 624's (a least I think thats what he said).

Anyhoo - basically an 11mm OD, 4mm ID x 4mm thick bearing.

Does that sound about right?

BJ

AeroFinn

I wouldn't mind seing a 360v and an ESM Sea Fury..

As a side note: how's the P-39 going?

Carosel43

the p39 is just chilling out. im waiting for a spinner As for the bearings bj I wouldn't worry. anything will be better than the originals I suspect!

AeroFinn

By the way, you said the compresion of your sc400 has become stronger than what it used to be. Has your fuel always been the same 15%Ml70+2% castor and 5% nitro? I'm just thingking that maybe castor helps with the compression? As we know "old school" model engines needed the castor not only for the cooling / lubrication but also for generating good compression. Just my thought.

Carosel43

the best it ever ran was on 20% castor fuel, i assume because the castor filled in all the gaps! but i got tired of the huge mess and problems restarting the engine when it was cold. The current 15% synth 2% castor seems a good balance but to be honest i am sure it would be fine on 10% oil in standard configuration. I think the main reason fo my improved performance is switching to a prop it likes (menz 20x8) and more importantly an rpm it likes, ie above 7000. Another factor is that it is now running/flying quite frequently and engines like that. they do not enjoy sitting for long periods, running once, and then sitting again.

One further tip for you 400 owners is regarding tuning. i have found the 400 a little difficult to 'peak' when tuning and found that a good test is to throttle back to about 5000 or so and then go back up to full power. if the engine advances steadity and then sags its too lean, if it advances slowly but dosent really advance in the last 20% of throttle movement its too rich. if it is quite linear in its response its about right. I have found that even 1 or 2 clicks are enough to make a difference

BJ64

Quick question on the SKF 619 /4 bearings for Caro (or anyone else)...

Couldn't get that exact bearing. What I ended up with was 694's - with 2RSR seals on them. I'm tempted to leave the seals on - at least they'll have some lube in there.

I'm really starting to think that there was no pre-lube done on my engine at all. That front end was bone dry - lucky to leave a film of oil on my finger. And I'm still thinking of trying to put some sort of breather nipple on the front of the nose up the top, so that I can inject some pre/after run oil into the cam area - nothing seems to be getting through to the front during run-time.

Also, I noticed that seat of the needle-bearing in front of the balancing lobe has some unusual wear marks on it (see pic). I guess the parallel marks are residual lathe marks, but there is a visible "lip" to the left (marked in red). You can just feel a step there with your fingernail one one side, but there's virtually no step at all 180 degrees around from that i.e. the wear/step is more pronounced on one side than the other.

Is this just normal (and rather sloppy, IMHO) factory machining, or has the bearing managed to chew into the shaft a bit? - remember, this engine has only seen 10 mins run time, tops...

BJ

Heli-NuBee

I flew my Segull Sea Fury powered by my Saito 200 three cylinder radial engine to remind me how much I love my radials. I had am awsome time today, the flights were great. I can't hardly wait to complete my CMP Zero powered by the ASP 400 five cylinder radial engine.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

Carosel43

Bj that looks far from ideal but there is not really a lot you can do about it :\As for the seals I would remove the rear seal only. We use sealed front bearings at work and we always remove the rear seal. If not you end up like OS did with the seals sealing in the rust! lol

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Congrat's Roger, your Sea Fury looks awesome!

BJ64

Started replacing my bearings, and I've hit a couple of snags.

1. I haven't been able to get the 914 (camshaft reduction 'double gear) bearing out of the nose. There's no way to tap/press it out from behind, and it seems to be a pretty tight fit. I heated the nosecone in the oven until it was quite hot, and gave it a whack on a wooden block. The main crankshaft bearing in the nose (SKF 6000) popped out easy-as, but the one I was trying to get out - the 914 - didn't budge. Do I have to make some kind of special tool to allow me to grip the bearing from the other side while going in through the 'front'?

2. I didn't write down which way the master rod bearing (INA HK1012-B) came out - flat side with the writing on it towards the slave crank retaining pin circlips, or to the pin head end?

Any advice much appreciated...

BJ

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

From my photos it would appear the lettering goes forward to the front of the engine:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6788411

BJ64

Still haven't been able to get that small &$#*ing bearing out... rolleyes:

BJ

Eulboyington

other method :

Insert an adjusted hard wood stick into the camgear bearing, add a little water for a night to extend the wood, then heat only the external side of the font crankcase approx 100° Celcius - > the bearing will go out his hole.

BJ64

Yah - I was thinking along the same lines - swell a piece of wood with water so that it grips the inner race.

But I don't think that will work - that darn bearing is in there real tight.

I made a little jig with pianowire last night. Kinda like a paperclip with two little feet that stick out. Got that through the inner race so that the 'feet' were on the otherside where you can't get to with a punch etc. Nup, couldn't budge it - even with heat.

I get the feeling that this particular bearing is either slightly seized in, or was a tight seat/badly fitted to start with. All the other bearings basically fell out on their own after I heated that part in the oven.

It's just this one bearing that's giving me grief - just has to be the one you can't get to from the other side. Ain't that always the way??

BJ

BJ64

Hmmm....

I wonder if I can modify a small aluminium prop adapter to act as an 'expanding wedge' to pull this bearing out.. ??

BJ

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

BJ, if you have the time, re-read this thread. I know that this issue has come up before, and people have described their methods and in some cases home made tools to get the friggin' bearing out.

jaav

My simple way is to use an acid

BJ64

Uhuh - then you'll have nothing left to worry about fixing either. I'll keep that one in mind

I'll do a bit of a search through the thread then, Tom - see if I can locate the 'special tools and techniques' section...

BJ

Carosel43

lol, he could be right, just dissolve the bearing completely!

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Please check a while back, I got that bearing out with a simple tool I made. Should be in this thread somewhere!

Otherwise I will repost.

Rev

BJ64

Hey Rev - if you can find it before I can, please re-post the link.

I'll do likewise if I find it before you do

BJ

People who put bearings in places where you can't get them back out without muo mendlies should be shot!

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Found it

BJ64

~*Majik*~

I'll give that one a try.

My next step was going to be to drip some molten lead in there, wait for it to set...then drill and tap it through the I/D and yank the b@stard out from there.

Or... a hyraulic solution.

Fair dinkum - setting a bearing with no way of getting at it from the other side? Who does that???

BJ

Carosel43

OS have done that for years. Driving bearings into blind holes, its not a great idea really. in any event I am watching another engine on ebay at the moment as its pretty cheap...I don't know why I am as I have no home for it and a 450 to sell...eh, more radials can only be a good thing right? Also I have been offered a ziroli stearman with another 400 in it (brand new) but they want ALOT of money for it. Its probably a fair price given that everything is new, but its pie in the sky stuff. no one will pay what they are asking for what is a second hand model.