ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul
#2951
Senior Member
#2953
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Haverhill, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#2955
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ellicott City,
MD
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looks like there's some competition for CDI conversions. I like the way the crank sensor is mounted. Does anyone know more about this conversion?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3HB5vTcWIQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3HB5vTcWIQ
#2957
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Haverhill, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's an interesting find.
Here's the website: http://www.morrisminimotors.com/ though it doesn't list this particular conversion (yet?).
Here's the website: http://www.morrisminimotors.com/ though it doesn't list this particular conversion (yet?).
#2958
Senior Member
Looks like there's some competition for CDI conversions. I like the way the crank sensor is mounted. Does anyone know more about this conversion?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3HB5vTcWIQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3HB5vTcWIQ
It all depends on what sort of mounting room there is. Rear facing, outward facing, they all work equally well.
#2960
Senior Member
The system in the CH video is a prototype so the finished product is probably identical to the Morris except for color & logo. I wouldn't expect Adrian to change from his red anodized trademark.
The magnet ring looks the same & I'm sure the CH finished product doesn't use J-B Weld to hold the hall sensor.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 09-06-2014 at 04:45 PM.
#2963
Senior Member
#2964
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (24)
I think we all would like to know the FACTS, and not SPECULATION.
Until you or anyone can show PROOF this is a CH product, manufactured for Morris under license, then as far as anyone knows this is a proprietary item manufactured by the gentleman in the UK.
Why it's such a fookin' mystery is beyond me. How come this item, if made by CH, is not on the CH website? Why instead, would it be manufactured for a different business, under a different brand name, in a different country?
#2965
My Feedback: (11)
CH Conversion 4 ASP
Well, this Morris item is not on CH ignitions website under any badge. And looking at the Youtube video of CH ignitions test, it looks entirely different and CH is using the stock carb where Morris is using a Walbro.
I think we all would like to know the FACTS, and not SPECULATION.
Until you or anyone can show PROOF this is a CH product, manufactured for Morris under license, then as far as anyone knows this is a proprietary item manufactured by the gentleman in the UK.
Why it's such a fookin' mystery is beyond me. How come this item, if made by CH, is not on the CH website? Why instead, would it be manufactured for a different business, under a different brand name, in a different country?
I think we all would like to know the FACTS, and not SPECULATION.
Until you or anyone can show PROOF this is a CH product, manufactured for Morris under license, then as far as anyone knows this is a proprietary item manufactured by the gentleman in the UK.
Why it's such a fookin' mystery is beyond me. How come this item, if made by CH, is not on the CH website? Why instead, would it be manufactured for a different business, under a different brand name, in a different country?
Hello Guys, I am Adrian from CH.
I will like to clear the waters here a little bit.
Morris and I are working together and exchange ideas on many things.
The first conversion using dual output sensor was done by me an year and so ago.
The 5 cylinders ignitions are made by CH and so far are only couple outfits that provides 5 cyl ignitions.
Moki but it using a different configuration and is only for MOKI, Rainbow-Tronic from Germany that does replacement for Moki and is another German company that does some ignitions for the Evolution gasoline radial engines and all are using the "magnets on the cam rings".
We also have the ignition for Moki 150-180 and will work on 215 and UP to 400.
As far as I know is no CDI out there that will be one unit and direct prop drive magnet ring.
Moris is the CH-Europe distributor and all the RED and CH Logo are from CH and also some of the other parts that is like CH look like.
In the past 35 Years CH made and did so many conversion and nothing was patented, copyright protected, Bill did not cared about that.
The CDI was copied in Canada, China ...and source for inspiration for others. But it is what it is and life goes one.
Why worry when we can have fun...life is short as it is.
But I am not worry about Morris he is a good guy before he had a site and when he was selling on the ebay...he had look alike CH, I contact him, he called and he ask me if I want him to stop...I said NO, The sky is big enough and is enough room for another star+ he is funny, good sense of humor.
The sensor holder for ASP 400 he done it that way to be able to use off the shelf Rcxel dual sensor that comes with the 3 cyl Saito.
Since this sensor is such a pain in the you know where to find...we have to make them. Before it was a SIP case 4 pin ...but the manufacture discontinued that.
I make mine and solder from SMT...by hand and that is way I have more flexibility and I can do different things.
We make the ignitions, the conversion kits....we do not take with one hand,mark up 100% and sale with the other hand.
I made mine to JB weld after talking with couple of people and they said that will like to be as small ,less weight and as less visible as possible for scale aspects .
If you have the spinner you will not see it.
I tried so many things , so many Walbro, Zama carburetors on the ASP 400/OS300 , Saito 325, Evo 7-77 and 9-99 (Yes we have an ignition for that aswell).
The ASP 400/ OS 300 I found a Zama C1Q-W18A that will start good and go up to 3500RPM but will not be good enough to say it works.
and this will work for those engine since it has a plenum and could pulse for fuel pump.
The other engines will work with walbro /zama but only on the stand , if you will raise/lower the fuel tank the engine will ...die since was not able to keep the fuel constant. The Saito /EVO or any of the through the crankcase fuel do not create a puse good enough to make the carb to pump it's own fuel.
So why increase the weight and price with something that does not quite work. It will work if you will get a $200-400 electric fuel pump like some people do with Moki.
Any of those engines will if you pressurise the tank and tune the original carb for gas.
The engine you seen that Morris run it run at idle and runs fine but will not transition.
I am in process on making a NEW website and I did not list so many other things I do on the current site.
I hope this will let anyone know the story of CH and MiniMorris.
If anyone have a ASP 400 for sale at a decent price...please let me know...I need one for ignition testing before I send them out.
Sincerely
Adrian Ciulei
Wet Palm Beach, FL
Last edited by CH Ignitions; 09-28-2014 at 06:40 AM.
#2966
Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Este, ITALY
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi everybody. I am building this 1/5 A6M5 Zero and i want to install my ASP400 engine.
http://www.biellaexpress.com/product...-A6M-Zero.html
I have made some modification in order to obtain a better SCALE look. I have used Ziroli cowl and Dubro tyres. I am making the scale fork for the landing gear and so on.
I have the ASP 400 since 8 years. I have never started him. I found this threads very useful.
Now i have to choose the right fuel tank. What capacity do you suggest me ? The model will weight about 12-13kg.
What kind of propeller is the best choice for the engine ?
Thank you for the help.
Bye
http://www.biellaexpress.com/product...-A6M-Zero.html
I have made some modification in order to obtain a better SCALE look. I have used Ziroli cowl and Dubro tyres. I am making the scale fork for the landing gear and so on.
I have the ASP 400 since 8 years. I have never started him. I found this threads very useful.
Now i have to choose the right fuel tank. What capacity do you suggest me ? The model will weight about 12-13kg.
What kind of propeller is the best choice for the engine ?
Thank you for the help.
Bye
#2968
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fresno,
CA
Posts: 850
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#2969
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fresno,
CA
Posts: 850
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are a few more pictures of my ASP 400 R3 radial engine powered PT-17 Military Stearman in action.
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
#2971
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,505
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How have you guys been fitting your Keleo collector rings to the ASP 400?
I have tried just about everything and can't get mine on no matter what I do.
I try to 'start' all 5 into the exhaust ports, but that doesn't seem to work.
I can get the bottom 2 either side of the exhaust outlet started, but then the other 3 sit too high. And when I try to align those 3, the 2 either side of the exhaust outlet sit too low.
There must be a knack to this - short of pulling the heads off etc..
Am I doing something wrong, or is something out of alignment? I really don't want to start applying force to the ring/headers or bending the headers etc. if I can avoid it.
Any advice welcome
BJ
I have tried just about everything and can't get mine on no matter what I do.
I try to 'start' all 5 into the exhaust ports, but that doesn't seem to work.
I can get the bottom 2 either side of the exhaust outlet started, but then the other 3 sit too high. And when I try to align those 3, the 2 either side of the exhaust outlet sit too low.
There must be a knack to this - short of pulling the heads off etc..
Am I doing something wrong, or is something out of alignment? I really don't want to start applying force to the ring/headers or bending the headers etc. if I can avoid it.
Any advice welcome
BJ
#2972
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: near Innsbruck, AUSTRIA
Posts: 615
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
10 Posts
BJ, believe me, it is an evening filling task, getting that ring on.
All I can say is, follow kelvins instructions to the dot and it will go on. It does take a bit of force, a rubber mallet is your friend.
If you have it on, try putting the keleo ring onto the evolution 7-77... thats something for engineers...
Rev
All I can say is, follow kelvins instructions to the dot and it will go on. It does take a bit of force, a rubber mallet is your friend.
If you have it on, try putting the keleo ring onto the evolution 7-77... thats something for engineers...
Rev
#2974
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,505
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So it's ok to use a bit of force then?
The collector looks pretty delicate, and I'm a tad reluctant to give anything a clout lest I bend/break something.
Is loosening the heads an option?
Or do you just keep gently whacking the thing until it finally slips the headers into each exhaust port?
Did you guys also have a couple that went in easy, while the others stood proud - and vice versa when you got the others aligned and those that went in easily now stand proud?
BJ
PS - got it sorted
Fiddled and farted around for a while tonight and tried the tap tap tap thing with a small soft hammer and finally managed to coax the ring into place. I ended up starting with the 3 headers that wanted to go in, then held the motor firm and tapped around the other 2 to persuade them to also enter their exhaust ports.
One was a fair stubborn bugger and didn't want to align. So I hooked my thumb around it to gently bend/tap it into position. One of the threads didn't feel all that warm and fuzzy when I did the retainers up, but they all seemed to pull-down by the same amount in the end. Not sure if one is slightly cross-threaded or not - I guess I'll find out if it suffers any blow-past when I fire the engine up ..
And oh yeah - I taped the retainers back up against the ring itself to keep them out of the way during all the tapping, cussing and cursing.
The collector looks pretty delicate, and I'm a tad reluctant to give anything a clout lest I bend/break something.
Is loosening the heads an option?
Or do you just keep gently whacking the thing until it finally slips the headers into each exhaust port?
Did you guys also have a couple that went in easy, while the others stood proud - and vice versa when you got the others aligned and those that went in easily now stand proud?
BJ
PS - got it sorted
Fiddled and farted around for a while tonight and tried the tap tap tap thing with a small soft hammer and finally managed to coax the ring into place. I ended up starting with the 3 headers that wanted to go in, then held the motor firm and tapped around the other 2 to persuade them to also enter their exhaust ports.
One was a fair stubborn bugger and didn't want to align. So I hooked my thumb around it to gently bend/tap it into position. One of the threads didn't feel all that warm and fuzzy when I did the retainers up, but they all seemed to pull-down by the same amount in the end. Not sure if one is slightly cross-threaded or not - I guess I'll find out if it suffers any blow-past when I fire the engine up ..
And oh yeah - I taped the retainers back up against the ring itself to keep them out of the way during all the tapping, cussing and cursing.
Last edited by BJ64; 11-03-2014 at 10:40 PM.
#2975
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ellicott City,
MD
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts