CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

Real cool...real expensive ride...but hey why not.
Maybe later you will try on CDI and Gas or other fuel.

Looks good.

Adrian

yoshi22

Adrian, speaking of CDI, can you give us some information about the availability of your ASP 400 CDI system? Specifically, is it available in kit form or is it a in-shop service performed at CH Ignitions? If a person wanted your CDI today can we get it and how? Thanks.

CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

I have build now 5 modules and I have couple that has no owner...LOL
I will be changing the layout again as I found a company in California that can do whatever box I need....Pricey but I need it.
The kit has:

- CDI dual sensor input, 5 cyl one single unit.
Works from 6 to 12v. I recommend 7.4v.
- 5 spark plugs 1/4-32
- Timing kit
-Magnet ring
-Sensor Ring with sensor
Price will be $399 Free USA Shipping
International $25.

As a preference for you guys what configuration will be better. 5 leads in the row (in line ) or 3 on the bottom and 2 on top?
make it round and have the leads around. Make it a split like Moki does ...2 boxes ....
I have months now and I can not decide . I need to know for 5, 7 and 9 cylinders.
Once I will decide then I can make everything else to fall in place, PCB, Box, Wires.
Another question will be wire length 12-14-16 inch?

Adrian

BJ64

Gotta love something that sounds like it's doing a million miles an hour...

BJ

BJ64

Ran the Keleo pipe on the ASP 400 this arvo - nice sound

It's pretty quiet though - thought it might have barked a bit more.

Bottom pot's header pipe blows a fair bit of gunk. I think that may have been the one that felt like it might have been cross-threaded a tad, though it did seem to pull up nice and firm with the same amount of threads showing as the other 4 headers.

Not sure what's going on there, or what to do about it.

Maybe undo it again and run some plumbers teflon tape on the thread ??

BJ

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

OMFG!! That moped is sooo badd azz and the engine just sounds MEAN in that application. That kid is my new hero!

BJ64

Off-topic for in here, but have any of you guys had any experience using a prop shaft extender?

I'd like to add a couple of inches to a Saito 180 so that I can mount it further back in a BF 109 so that I don't have to hack the cowl as much.

I reckon I can turn something useful up on the lathe, but I'm not sure if I'd need a bearing up front etc.

Any info greatly appreciated...

BJ

Carosel43

whoaaaa some serious revs on that engine!

BJ64

On a Saito 180?

Neh - 10,000. Tops...with the setup I anticipate running...

BJ

Carosel43

I was referring to the moped with the 400

BJ64

Oh... LoL

For a minute there I thought you meant the Saito.

Yeh - that "bike" sounds like it was just about ready to go vertical

BJ

Carosel43

that or the conrods will make a break for it and escape through the crankcase!

Dad_Roman

Ive seen that....and it will NOT buff out.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

lol...

The kid is going to make a new 5-into-1 header for his moped this winter. Should sound interesting when he gets it installed.

BJ64

Which reminds me - I must finish editing the vid of my homemade 1-inch copper waterpipe system for the ASP 400. It has 2 exhaust outlets and sounded quite deep for ~65cc motor

The Keleo is now fitted, and has a nice sound to it too - though it seems a bit more quiet and doesn't have quite the same bark to it...

BJ

Dad_Roman

Id like to see that.

BJ64

It's certainly no work of art - rather agricultural, really.

I just wanted to see what sort of a note I could get out of a bigarsed pipe

BJ

Dad_Roman

Did you get any vid? Like the sound? Deep as you wanted? Why switch to a keleo?

BJ64

It didn't sound too bad.

But it's only a makeshift pipe - you'll see what I mean in the vid (when I get around to finishing it).

And it weighs a fair bit - being made of 1 inch copper pipe and copper elbows.

The Keleo is a sweet piece of engineering. Nice and light. And has a fairly decent sound to it too

BJ

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Tuned pipes for RC racing cars have been made from carbon fiber for quite a while. Nice and light. Make a big arse collector ring from CF, BJ!

BJ64

Quite a while back, Heli-Nu-Bee posted some pics of a Zero (?) on some sort of PVC tubing stand.

I like that stand and would like to make a couple - any idea what diam tubing was used?

BJ

tsnaylor1964

Okay guys, I guess this would the appropriate thread to post my experience with the ASP 400. I purchased one from Hobby King last month and was in the first hour of break- in on the bench and it suddenly quit running. It had started right up first try and run nicely until then. My first check was fuel and good voltage to the plugs from the on board batteries. Not the problem. Slowly turned it over by hand and got the dreaded crunching sound so I figured it was a toasted bearing. Not wanting to go through the frustration of doing a warranty return, waiting for weeks to get it back, I opened it up to find that the cam gears had several missing teeth with metal remains in the front housing. Fortunately, the metal bits stayed there and did not work their way into the rest of the engine and do any more damage. I ordered the gears (part # 400723 and 400731) from Just Engines. Had the parts in three days (great service, I would say) got it back together today and it runs nicely again.
I have the EVO 77 and the 99 and they run beautifully and the quality seems a little better than the ASP 400 perhaps. Although, I do have the ASP 61 and 91 singles and they are nicely made and run great.
I have been reading this post from the beginning and would like to thank everyone for all the good tips and info.
Tom

BJ64

Yep - sounds like you had the dreaded "we don't lube the front of the engine before we sell it" curse happen to you too.

That's exactly what mine did - started fine, ran fine, then immediately blew the cam gears due to a bone-dry front end

Like you, a warranty repair wasn't going to cut it and I also opened mine up and went from there. The help from the guys in here was invaluable.

While one can understand that corners will be cut getting one of these things out the door at the price they do (compared to others), one really does have to wonder how much more time and effort would be required to squirt a bit of oil around up in the nose on the cam, cam gears, and front bearings etc.?

It's just not good enough.

I would have thought they'd spend an extra five minutes pre-lubing that area by now. Sounds like they still don't. Which is a pitty, because it's a tidy little powerplant for the dollars.

Here's hoping you have a trouble-free run from now on.

BJ

PS - it may pay to do the 'oiler hole' mod in the nose as well as the one in the crank area once you have it apart

I'm kicking myself now that I only did the one up in the nose cone - might still do crank one before it goes into an aircraft...

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

BJ64,

The tubing you have questions about is 1 inch (25mm) schedule 40 pvc tubing. Available in the plumbing section at any of the home improvement store here stateside...don't know about down-under. you should be able to find similar at a plumbing supply over there. If they don't understand our "schedule 40" reference over there just ask for the thicker walled, more ridged tubing. There is a thin wall, same size, tubing that is commonly used for irrigation systems...you don't want that as it will dump your plane on the ground when it shatters

The padding is just a bit of the cello-foam pipe insulation available from the same sources in the same section of the home improvement stores or the plumbing supply

Some pipe caps on the ends would give it a more finished look...

Cheers!

BJ64

Thanks Frets

No problem getting the tubing, bends and ends, and foam etc. down here from Bunnings or Masters. I've used it a fair bit for other things in the past.

Just wanted to be sure what diam the tube for those stands needs to be. I guessed it would be around an inch or so - thanks for confirming.

BJ