Carosel43

Ok, long story short, I have a 180 and 150 laser running on petrol @ 40:1 and 50:1..they have been running like this for some time and nothing has melted. So, we thought 'why do we use so much oil in glow fuel???' that answer? we always have and no one bothered to go back and check if we needed to. So, my other laser 150, 360v and 300v are all running on 4% oil, and guess what...they didn't melt. So, to continue this experiment, the 400 radial might see the light of day once more

Carosel43

Ok, long story short, I have a 180 and 150 laser running on petrol @ 40:1 and 50:1..they have been running like this for some time and nothing has melted. So, we thought 'why do we use so much oil in glow fuel???' that answer? we always have and no one bothered to go back and check if we needed to. So, my other laser 150, 360v and 300v are all running on 4% oil, and guess what...they didn't melt. So, to continue this experiment, the 400 radial might see the light of day once more

Carosel43

mods??? the forum freaked out and double posted. can we delete one pls

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

4% This should be interesting. Currently the Seidel clones (Horizon Hobby's Evolution series radials) as well as my Rogeau RIM modified FS400 run on 8%.

Carosel43

As you know Tom I still believe that the intake mod offers no lubrication advantage at all and could potentially cause a problem. But, time will tell. If/when I get around to testing it I will clearly post the results here

BJ64

Happy New Year guys.

You might be the one to ask, Caro (though I think I may have already asked this before) - where would one get a multi-cylinder inline crank from?

I'd like to have a fiddle trying to make my own 2 or 3 cylinder inline engine - can't justify the expense of a Kolm etc.

I'd have the necessary machinery to mill a block etc from billet aluminium, but the crankshaft would be a fair bugger to manufacture. One-piece would be great, though I've seen some home-made 'pin' type cranks on YouTube.

I guess the other difficult bit would be a camshaft (or two)...

BJ

Carosel43

at our scales you would be better off with a multi piece crank purely because its so much easier to make and if one section is damaged you can replace/repair it. You also don't need split big ends etc and the whole thing is so much easier. As you rightly point out, the cam shaft is the next hurdle and in many respects is even more critical.

As a curiosity, how much is a kolm inline?

BJ64

The smallest 2cyl 4-stroke is the IL100. Sells for US$1690 or thereabouts, which is around AUD$2050.

The bad-arse 3cyl 4-banger IL200 is around US$2980 - AUD$3600+...

BJ

SrTelemaster150

Unstable ignition timing with glow ignition needs the added insurance & stability of excess lube.. I have run 8% lube W/30% nitro O'Donnell Speed Blend glow fuel W/CDI W/no apparent ill affects in my high compression FA-180.

If you have a lean run W/4% oil & glow ignition there could be damage from detonation.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

I'm looking to buy @ a fair price several "ruined" top cyl. assy. castings (just the outer parts) valve guide tubes are optional

Just need the front half to look decent

PM me, thanks Vasek

BJ64

What's been happening in ASP400 Land lately...??

BJ

Dad_Roman

I notice that HK keeps re-stocking them......a good sign.

I wonder how the 2014-15 models are performing. All the bugs worked out etc. Wonder if they oil them any better from the factory.

I got the Seidel but not the ASP. If I ever get the ole "Fleet Bipe" out I will have to take the plunge

BJ64

Yah - that bloody lack of attention to detail re lubing the front end bearings etc. still seems to be a bit of a hassle from what I have been reading around the traps lately.

Seriously HK/ASP - lift your freakin game.

This a pretty darn good engine for the price - a couple of drops of the good-oil up the front during assembly would make these things pretty darn bullet-proof on a cost/performance basis.

If people new to these engines keep blowing them up due to bad Q/A, you'll only have yourselves to blame. Ok, so it's a typical Chinese rip-off of a known quantity - but it doesn't have to cark it in the first minutes of running.

I'm not b.itchin here - hell, I learnt a fair bit by having to pull my engine down and rebuilding it after the front end seized.

But it shouldn't have to be that way. 10 cents worth of oil and 5 mins more work during assembly would take this thing from being a 'cheap' engine to being a 'great value for money engine'.

Is that too much to ask?

BJ

EQ1

I think it is a good sign, if nobody complains about this engine. Maybe this thread helped a lot of people overcoming the initial pitfalls. I am also happy with mine, no signs of corrosion. Currently it sits in the corner and is waiting for the spring to come.

So, to satisfy your curiosity BJ, there are things going on in a slightly different region. I f you remember, some months ago I sketched the idea of building a 7-cyl. radial made partly from stock engine components, i.e. liners, pistons, heads, valve, etc. Now, supposedly many if not all might have thought "yeah, nice idea, has been heard several times, but will not be brought to an end". And they could have been right. It is not as simple as one might think. To make a long story short (because it does'nt relate to this thread), the design had been done one year ago and first parts are manufactured, but in order to manufacture everything for a prototype, i.e. just one engine, you need a lot of money. At this moment I am really confident, that I have the funding. In that case I will start a new thread and give details about everything.

Have a nice day!

BJ64

Good luck with your build - should be an interesting little project

BJ

Mopaerial

Been Reading this thread for quit a while tonight. Lots of great info and have taken many notes. One question, what are the general weights of planes you all are flying with this motor? Is it safe to say max would be around 22lbs?

Thanks,
John

nicoladestro

With my Zero i will arrive at 28-30 lbs.
Regards

SJN

My Black Horse Gilmore red Lion at 8kg/17,5lbs flew ok.......not overpowered.....

nicoladestro

I hope the power will be enough ��

Dad_Roman

Just noticed it bumped up $77 dollars at HK

chorner

Hey guys, looking to pick up one of these engines from HK. Could anyone help with the part numbers for the proper Tru Turn adapters and hub? Also what's the crankshaft size and threading on this engine. 10mm? Just want to know if I can drop on a Mejzlik carbon fiber prop for example (10mm bore)

tim750r

Not sure about the Tru Turn stuff, but this engine uses a sleeve nut to secure the prop. 17/32" or 13.4mm if you're metric is the size you need to ream a prop to. Kind of makes it awkward to try different props as they won't fit anything else after...

chorner

Hmmm that's kind of an odd size. What size is the actual crankshaft and threading? If anyone knows that I'm sure you could get rid of the sleeve perhaps?

bauso

Hello,
I have read this thread completely. Thanks for the hints and thougts about the ASP. I know this thread is rather old, but maybe someone is interested in my expericence.
Well, years ago I bought a kind of this engine from the second hand market. It was a complete set including glow driver. The seller told me, that the engine had run only some minutes. The brand name is Magnum, but I guess its the same engine as the ASP.
I run the engine on a test bed without any problem and put it back in the box. Reason for buying it is building a Hentschel HS123 around this engine. But this is still a lot work to do.
Meanwhile I had made bad experiences with corrosion on small single cylinder 4-stroke engine. Within 4 weeks after flying all bearings are completely damaged. I only noticed this, because I wanted to have a look on the valve clearance.
At this time I remembered on the "boxed" radial...
At first I noticed that I cannot turn it by hand, so I decided to have a detailed look. Fortunately, I run this engine without nitro and only 18% castor oil before I stored it. So the reason for the lock was the old castor rests.
Meanwhile I found this thread and read about the E-clips, the conrod pins and the lubrication issue of the cam shaft.
Well this brought me to some decisions.
1. change of all bearings, e-clips and conrod pins.
2. change the intake so that the suction goes through the crankcase
3. change carb and go with ignition to run it on gas
4. make a collector ring
Well, after disassembling the bearings had small corrosion. Besides this, the other parts were in cood condition. So I assembled the engine with new bearings and pins, and the gaskets were replaced by a sealant for car engines. All O-rings where glued in with high temperature silicon.
The intake modification I was inspired from a video of a french guy for a Saito FG84 or something like this. I removed the intake section from the distribution backplate on a lathe so that the threads for the distibution cover still can be used. The connecting nuts were rebored to 8mm blind hole from the inner side and plugged and soldered a piece of 8mm thin walled brass tube. This is only to prevent liquid oil/gasoline flood into the cylinders.
After this I was fooled by myself when it comes to assembly the ignition caps in the correct order, but finally it is working.

So, as the HS123 is still not ready to fly I am looking for a model for testing and coming familiar with this engine.

regards, Kay

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Hey guys, "Opportunity is Knocking" .
.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html