ArcherIIDriver

MotorMan,
Once again I agree w/ you. I see the value in pinning, if done properly (as you have described). I am now considering it...but I want to take care of the root-cause as well, which is the backfire/kickback. I just need to massage the needles a bit more to lessen the probablility.

Also, just to let everyone know...Tru-Turn has offered to replace the spinner @ 1/2 price. I think that was a nice gesture.

BTW, this thrust washer is on TIGHT! I have a puller (looks exactly like the one from Central Hobbies) and managed to bend it beyond usability trying to pull the thrust washer. Guess I need to go looking for one with a little more meat on its bones.

ArcherIIDriver

MotorMan, is the pin that you use aluminum?

Iflyglow

My Feedback: (79)

Archer,
I do not use aluminum, mine are 3/32 hardened steel. You could also use a 3/32 roll pin too. You are not really adding that much weight anyways. You are removing the equal amount in aluminum.
I have never seen any wear on the small hole either. You could put your puller on with a little tension, and then heat the drive washer a little with a heat gun. It will pop off then, since the aluminum will expand just a tad. They can be stubburn, but will come off. You could use aluminum if you can find some 6061 T6 or 7075 T6. I still check them every other day of flying. Do not be afraid to tighten it with a good wrench, a 4 way wrench is not tight enough.[X(] The YS 1.40 I just did, I used a roll pin (Hollow) for the job, just because i did not feel like spending $3.50 for gast to buy a .03 cent part.
The roll pin is also hardened, and I did not use loctite.

Ken6PPC

Here is what I use. Admittedly, I found mine on sale....

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93980

You can also use these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=7343
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40966

The set I got on sale REALLY works nicely. When I assemble it and clamp it on the thrust washer, I don't have to worry about it falling off, or use three hands to keep everything together. I know this is overkill, but it sure is easy to use! BTW, if you put a little pressure on the bolt, and then use a propane torch (or heat gun, as MOTORMAN 37 suggested) to heat up the thrust washer a little, it comes off much easier.

ArcherIIDriver

Ken6PPC - That HF set up you have is sweet! I LIKE overkill Actually, the 2nd link to a "bearing separator" looks like it would work nicely w/ one of my automotive pullers (Harmonic Balancer, steering wheel, etc.)

MotorMan - Thanks for the info. I was more currious about shear streangth than weight...and your relpy cleared it right up! And yes, NOBODY should use the 4-way to tighten a prop. I always use a box-end wrench...not a cresent, due to the probablility of the jaws loosening & rounding the nut...AND the high propablility of the adjuster screw on a cresent gouging into the prop as you tighten...don't ask me how I know that one

Ken6PPC

I bet that bearing separator would work great with your steering wheel puller.

When I bought my bearing separator set, I was actually looking for the separator and puller in the second and third links in my post above. They didn't have the small bearing separator at that time, and I found that set on sale for $29.99. I couldn't resist that!

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

I've been trying to get the drive washer off of an OS SF .40 for three days with no luck. I just tried tightening down two different pullers and heated it with both a heat gun and a propane torch. It simply will not pop off. I'm afraid I might anneal the crank if I heat it any more.

Do you think this OS tool will work any better?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCA72&P=7

Would cooking the engine in a crock pot help? I really need to change the bearings in this engine.

Thanks,
David

ArcherIIDriver

I'm not experienced in the croc-pot method...but on mine I plan to use a bearing separator like Ken6PPC has provided links to, in conjuction w/ a steering wheel/HB puller (already on hand). This will allow the use of a wrench, ratchet, or even an impact wrench if needed...instead of the flimsy little "T" handle to crank on the puller. I doubt that heat will be required when applying that much force/leverage with the puller/separator.[sm=punching.gif]

And yes, I think that the OS puller will help you out for the same reasons I just discussed. Only downside is that it is somewhat engine specific.

Let us know how it goes! [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks ArcherIIDriver. I will try some of that PB Blaster tomorrow. If that doesn't work I'll buy a new tool.

If I could find a place that had the drive washer in stock I'd just hacksaw the thing off and replace it.[>:]

David

ArcherIIDriver

Yeah, parts for the SF's are getting hard to come by. I still have a .40 SF and a .61SF lying around. About a year ago, I lucked out & got Tower's very last carb boby for the .61. I still think the SF's run better than the newer models.

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

I love the SF .61's!

Sorry to get so off topic from your thread.

APC props tend to slip on my Tower .61. The pinning method would be good for that engine, too.

David

ArcherIIDriver

No problem! Small hijacks are OK...besides...it is all related.

Ken6PPC

I'd say the crock pot couldn't HURT. Don't know if it would help though.

Perhaps the best thing to do is to continue heating and cooling it, along with a little chemical persuasion, like PB Blaster. It HAS to loosen up sooner or later, or at least one would think so.....

Iflyglow

My Feedback: (79)

Raindave,
You are heating the drive washer and not the crank correct.

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, I've tried to keep the heat only on the aluminum drive washer. I tightened the puller down so tight I bent the T-handle. I can't figure out what's holding it on. Aluminum doesn't rust!

David

Iflyglow

My Feedback: (79)

Is it a collet or a woodroof key. What does OS use on the old SF's? Have you tried to tap on it lightly when it is under pressure from the puller and heated at the same time?

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I tend to get obsessive with these little projects. I don't like to give up. I did something I would not recommend to anyone. I took a very small ball peen hammer and continually tapped on the end of the crank. Not hard enough to mushroom the end, but with a little force. Gradually, the crank began to move backwards. I continued to gently tap until the crank fell out. Thank goodness the rear bearing stayed in the case.

The case is now in the oven for the removal of the bearings. I'll post some photos in a bit. The split collet has strange dark bands around it. It must be the corrosion that was holding it to the drive washer.

More photos to follow...

David

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

MOTORMAN37, the .61's have Woodruff Keys; the .40 and .46 used split collets.

David

Gauch

I had a backfire on my Saito 100 ruin a TruTurn spinner last week. I purchased it with my AMEX card 4 weeks earlier. Buyer Assurance gave me a 100% refund for the original purchase price.

ArcherIIDriver

Very cool. Never thought about that.