corsaircrazy

My Feedback: (2)

Has anyone ever had a problem getting the Piston/Rod out of the OS 160FX? No matter how tight I pull the crank foward, there is just not enough play in the wrist pin to allow me to pull the rod off the crankshaft. And, Yes, I did remove the liner.
This "new in box" engine has some very rusty bearings and what looks like a little mark under the ring. It is pretty tight. Anyway I spent $50 bucks for some Boca bearings, but I cant get to the bearings with the rod attached to the crank.....

Any suggestions?

CC

Flyer95

My Feedback: (1)

Try turn the crankshaft so that the pin and the con.rod big end is at the bottom of the crankcase. That would give more axial play I hope! What have caused rusty bearings in a new engine? just courious.

gunfighterII

I think the only thing that causes rusty bearings is running fuel thru them.

I would also recommend RCBearings.com for your bearing needs. $11.97 vs $50
http://www.rc-bearings.com/

Try the 11:00 position on the conrod.

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

The cylinder liner must be removed before the piston/rod assembly can be removed from the engine. If the engine's been run a lot, it may have fuel residue on the wrist pin that's preventing the rod from moving aft far enough to allow you to get the rod off the crank. Also, it's very common to have to pry the rod off. Use the head of a carriage bolt under the rod at the crank, and it should pry off very easily.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

The engine is obviously not new in box.

corsaircrazy

My Feedback: (2)

You're right about not being New in box.. I was really PO'd when I got it. [:@] My first clue was the sweet smell of stale, burnt fuel comming from the box. Suckered again by the famous auction site!!
Flyer 95.... the 160 has the crankcase machined out for rod clearance, so at bottom dead center the rod is partially recessed in this groove.
I am a little leary of yanking on the rod to remove it, but there doesn't seem to be another option. I did read somewhere about the carriage bolt idea.
I'll give that a try and see what happens.... can't hurt too much! The motor is useless as it is now.
As for the bearings.... I spent a few extra $$ to get the stainless bearings to limit future corrosion. (not that I would leave the engine with fuel in it for an extended period of time, like the previous owner did.)

We'll see what happens.....

CC

corsaircrazy

My Feedback: (2)

Well, with much prying and praying, I got the rod off the crank. Boy, that really took some yanking and prying! Doesn't look like Anything was scratched or bent. Cleaned rust off chrank, cleaned out varnish from crankcase (this is a NEW engine? B.S.!) only thing that looked good was the liner, still had the crosshatch and looked new. I am guessing they started to break in motor and quit, while leaving raw fuel in the motor. Bearings were toast (crunchy) some 1200 grit wet or dry cleaned up the crank nicely, as with the crankpin.
New bearings, lots of lube and looks like I have a good motor afterall. (it just cost me almost as much as buying one from Tower Hobbies after the bearings)
Live and Learn!

CC

gunfighterII

That's a bummer on the engine.

For some reason Paul at RC Bearings does'nt have the 160 bearings in stainless or ceramic.

I'm replacing bearings in a 91 4 stroke and needed to use a allen wrench to pull the rod off, did'nt take much, just a slight tug.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Once you get this engine back together you will love it. It's my favorite engine of this size.