Ram Jet

I just got an new Enya 1.55. I'm going to tear it down and install a Bowman ring before I put a drop of fuel in it. If I find the rear main bearing is shielded you know what I'm going to do.

Bill

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

Bill it doesn't matter if the rear bearing is shielded or not in the Enya. The valve train is behind the cylinder, so the bearing has no influence. The Enya probably has an open bearing.

This thread has become a lot of worrying about nothing.

Ram Jet

You are right. Actually I'm fretting over nothing because the crankcase breather nipple is located between the front and rear main bearing and the shield won't prevent the oil from migrating into the cranshaft snout anyway. Thanks for helping me remove the shield my brain. My .46 is a different matter though. [sm=confused.gif]

Edit: Damn your good. I have been concerned about getting lubrication into the cam box on my .46. Solution? Plug the crankcase breather hole in the bottom of the crankcase and force the crankcase to vent through the cambox thus lubing the cam drive gears, bearings, cam lobes etc. Sweet. Uh, what size tap is required to cut threads for the breather nipple?

Thanks,
Bill

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

That's a tricky question. I'm not sure what Enya uses. I think OS uses 3.5mm thread on theirs. I would just buy a Dubro fitting, then you know what tap to use.

Ram Jet

Thanks gk, good idea. Maybe I can get a threaded plug for the original breather ot just solder it closed.

Bill

Campgems

Woops, posted to the wrong thread.

Don

Ram Jet

Oh, a snob huh?

Bill

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Bill, be very careful of the rocker arms on the 1.55, they split real easy when tightening the jam nut after adjusting the lash. They are hard as flint.

Ram Jet

Thanks Hobbsy. As my mother would say "A word to the wise is sufficient." I have removed the rocker cover and losened the carb bracket and was amazed at how tight the factory turned in some of the screws. I'm pretty careful when tightening screws. I learned my lesson when I was about 13 working on a Mercury outboard.

Thanks again,
Bill

Campgems

Not really, but I didn't think a post about covering applied all that much to the four stroke questions. Well, if you stretch it far enough the covering and the engines are on the same plane. NAWWW won't stretch that far
Don

Cherokee Flyer

Remember the diffrence between shielded and sealed. Shielded will allow oil to flow through; just keeps the junk out.
L

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Shielded keeps JUNK OUT? maybe big pieces? The fine stuff goes right on through.

Ram Jet

I'm hip.

Bill

Ram Jet

I'm hip.

Bill

Cherokee Flyer

Just like the old chicken wire filters we used to put on cars to hop them up, always kept the chickens out!!
L.

bpbat21

Hey fellas,

I am having a problem with my Magnum .52 4 stroke. It had been sitting in storage for a long while. The engine is brand new. Its got part of a flight on it. I cleaned it up and and got it running the other day, but as soon as I took the glow igniter off it dies. I didn't fool with it very long. It sounds good with my glow stick on the plug. The high end sounds right. I don't know if I should try the low end. I have also moved 3000 feet higher and not sure if that has an effect on the engine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
Ben

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

You forget that the internal parts of the engine are spinning at up to 10,000 rpm whipping the oil around everything. Never aim the vent line at amything you don't want sprayed with lots of oil.



I just replied to a post that is 11 months old..................Okay, I'm a dummy today, and I haven't had my coffee yet[&:]

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Rule #1, coffee first in all seasons.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Many years ago I lived in the South and the wasps would seal over with mud all your nipples on the engine, the venturi, or a big glob on the side of the fins

shereckp

I recently bench tested a new ASP 52AR four stroke and no oil was ejected through the breather tube on the bottom of the crankcase. Is this something to be concerned about?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Try to run it rich and see if it has oil coming out the vent

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Enya is "good enough" to make your engine, but not good enough to make its piston ring? Don't get me wrong, I have tremendous respect for Mr. Bowman. And you, come to think of it.

I'd break the engine in with the Enya ring and then pack the Bowman ring away safely for a rainy day. Run the engine sufficiently rich and I'll bet you'll never get to use that Bowman ring. (wink)


Ed Cregger

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

But first, unscrew the nipple and then make sure you can see through the hole. If clear, then reinstall and procede as Jim advised. Can't get no oil through a blocked hole! (smile)


Ed Cregger

Tarasdad

Now I'm confused. I just replaced the bearings in my Saito .80 and the rear bearing I got sure appeared to be sealed, as is the front. Or is it just shielded, and I'm a doofus? Here's a link: http://www.advantagehobby.com/produc...roductid=26469

$60 worth of parts, want to make sure it's in good shape for its re-entry into the flying world.

Campgems

That bearing is a shielded bearing, at least the side showing. All metal is a shielded bearing. It is designed to keep big chunks of crud from getting into the race and balls. The Sealed bearings have a red, green, blue, black or some other color rubber like lip that rides on the inner race. It prevents liquid from migrating past that point, as well as serving the functions of the shielded bearing. Bearings come in all combinations of open, sealed, or shielded. IEopen one side shielded the other. THis is common for the main bearing. Shielded one side or Sealed one side are common for the nose bearing. As some Saitos don't circulate oil through the cam housing, they would use Sealed two sides for the nose at least.The seal is effective in keeping fluid from entering the bearing, not the other way around. Some oil/grease escaping is normal as the bearing heats up.

If you need an open ball bearing, and you can only find a shielded or sealed one, you can carefully, using your pocket knife pick out the shield or seal. Just make sure you don't dig into the ball keeper and nick it or you have destroyed the bearing.
The Saito, Magnum, and O.S bearings are over priced. Some of the aftermarket bearing suppliers have much less expensive prices, but some times you get what you pay for. I've been using a couple bearing suppliers on Ebay, not the skate board bearing guys, but big bearing houses that found a market on Ebay in addition to their brick and mortar stores. Their prices are generally around 10% to 20% of what you would pay for O.S, or Saito parts. Their quality is better. Some of the after market bearing sellers quality isn't always OK, but is generally good. Look closely at the bearing shield or seal or sometimes on the race to get the number. I'm a little rusty, but a ZZ suffex indicates shield on both sides. A Z would indicat a Shield on one side. Sealed both side bearings rely on the grease from the manufacture. Shielded both sides do to some extent, Open one or both sides rely on lubercation being supplied internally to the bearing, IEpiston blow by.

Don