zdsh13

I recently replaced a connecting rod and re-assembled my FA-100T (Older one with air pump). It appears that my left cylinder cam timing is out as the cylinder is cold during runup and I can only get 7100 RPM on a APC 14 x 6. I assembled based on the manual, ie: right cam first then rotate 180 degrees counter clockwise, them set left cam with etched mark at the 3 o clock position and mount cam. I also read on this forum that there are even and odd firing 100T's, does someone have the cam timing for both types of firing orders so I can reset my left cam.

Thx

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Z, the odd firing engines have the cylinders perfectly in line with each other, the even firing ones have the cylinders offset. You can verify the timing by turning the engine to the top of the exhaust stroke, at that point both valves should open partway on that cylinder, verify other cylinder the same way.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

All the 100T's are odd firing

The odd firing 90T and 80T are predecessors to the 100T

The 60T, 90TS, and 300T are even firing engines

There are odd firing 132T and 182T engines also

For the left cam on the 100T there should be two marks. On the front of the cam is a dot. One the back side is a line. The line should be at 3:00 when standing behind the engine with the left cylinder at TDC

I just put one together a month ago and cannot remember exactly but on the left cam if you take a pushrod and stick the small end in the exhaust valve lifter hole, It will engage a oil hole in the back side of the exhaust cam. You should notice the etched or stamped line pointing at 3:00 when you start to insert the cam box.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I'm glad you chimed in here, I knew how to verify the timing but not how to do the second cylinder.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I assembled my Saito 182 a couple years ago and there was no mark on the left cam.

I had to assemble the left side of the engine like Hobbsy said by observing the intake valve and exhaust valve being partially open at top dead center. It took 3 or 4 tries to get it right.

zdsh13

Thanks for the info, I'll tear the left side down again and try once more. Maybe 2 times will be the charm, it sure idled nice with one cylinder, a smooth 2000.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Let us know what the marks on the cam looked like and how the timing hole aligned etc.

zdsh13

Better luck on the timing now! I could not get a tach reading as I was inside the garage but it rev up good. My mistake was that I seen an etched line on the cam gear lobe and assumed that was the line as the manual refers to looking from the rear of the engine. The line etch was actually on the front side of the cam gear just as you stated and was a good 3/16" long, can't believe I didn't look on the front side [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Now the issue is I get flame outs randomly on either cylinder without glow heat, typical at lower idles up to estimating 2500 RPM. The transition is awesome and revs instantly but I'm thinking I am rich judging by the residue on my garage floor. My HS needles are about 2 turns open and the carb air bleed screws are 3 1/2 turns screwed out, I will try again tomorrow when the sun is out and try to optimize the HS needles. Any idea what the optimum setting is for the air bleed screws, or just set them for the engine transition?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

On the high speed needles you have to peak and back off each one individually at full throttle.

I found the airbleeds to not be very sensitive but attempt to peak but still maintain transition. They work backwards you know because the control air and not fuel.

It being a older engine with the air pump, it may also have the old McCoy MC4 gold post plugs that it came with. I would recommend a change to OS "F" plugs

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Z, just as Jim says, the Air adjuster is not very sensitive. Set them both halfway across the holes and then fine tune them after setting the peak.

zdsh13

Thx, the plugs are OS "F" as I changed them when I intially assembled the motor. I'll continue having fun running it up today, looks like its going to be a balmy 1 oC today in Alberta so maybe I'll run it from the garage with the door open

Are you running with an onboard glow driver or are you able to hold both cylinders running at a low idle without flame outs?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've had the Nib 100T about 3 yrs and recently removed the pump but have not run it. But it feels right

I have a very similar Saito 182TDP about 4 years that was damaged in a crash that I completely rebuilt and I've run it some. It has never dropped a cylinder. Has always run perfect.

I did break in a friends even fire OS FT120 Mk II and it wanted to drop a cylinder until I got the needles set.

zdsh13

Thx w8ye, I'll continue working with it today and report what I find. I'm leaning the same way, if I can get the mixture right at low idle it should hopefully not drop a cylinder, just need to keep the transition good.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If you have one cylinder that consistantly drops then try loosening the valves in that cylinder to .004"

zdsh13

Was able to complete the run-up today, with the 14 x 6 APC I was able to peak the FA-100T at 9550 RPM and richened to 9300. HS needles are about 1 1/2 turns open and the air bleeds remain 3 1/2 turns open. The engine idles very well at 2000 RPM and could go lower if I left the glow drivers on. I ran a 12 oz tank and did not have any cylinder flame outs even after running at 2000 RPM for 3 minutes. I'm very happy with the engine and considering I only paid $100 shipped for a dis-assembled motor and only had to change one connecting rod to repair. Thanks for the help.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

This all sounds very good and goes along with my experience with the 182T that I have