scriptt

My Feedback: (5)

I just recently bought a slightly used Edge 540 (I think the guy said it was a ¼ scale). Any way it has a Supertigre S2000 glow engine and I can’t find hardly any info on the motor.

I need to know what type of glow plug it takes, right now im using an O.S. number 8 plug and it seems to be working ok.

The motor seems to run decently on regular 15% nitro fuel, this is the correct fuel right? The stuff at the hobby store for airplanes? What % is best?

One thing I have noticed in a few of my glow planes is when I stomp the gas from idle the engine will sputter and some times even stall out. This is only when I Get on the gas very fast. We have tweaked for hours and it still has this response issue. Is this normal, flyable? Any ideas on how to correct it?

RPM also seems to max out before I am at full throttle.

It may just be the Weather, it has been pretty darn cold recently, could cold fuel have anything to do with it?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You will get a lot of answers but the four stroke plugs seem to help the stumbling some.

I wouldn't go any higher on Nitro. In fact drop back to 10%

Some companies make a special blend of fuel for these engines with less oil

shakeelsid

The S-2000 was discontinued around ten years ago (I think)- it is a wonderful engine, very very heavily built (3lbs for a 1.20 ). It shall give you around 7700 RPM on a 16-8 prop, which seems to optimize this engine for most type of flying
Use 5% nitro if possible - these are not built for high nitro. It is a bronze bushed on the con-rod so Supertigre recommended 18% oil. Because it runs at low RPMs, I have used 10 % castor oil all through their lives with me.
It has a carburator with a shady reputation - sputtering is common if the spraybar is not adjusted properly - I changed my engines to OS-7D carbs when they were available. With the OS carb it is a joy to operate. Anyway, if you have the ST carb then there shall be two flat head screws holding the fuel supply nozzle assembly. Losen them and rotate the assembly counter clockwise to lean the midrange and clockwise to richen the midrange. (If I remeber correctly, if I am wrong someone will correct me). Do it like five degrees at a time untill you have a stable throttle response.
these are wonderful engines that you would probably pass on to your grand children - even if you nose dive, the engine seems to survive remarkably well.

sid

Dave :^)

Hi Scriptt,
Before I start I will admit you'll get different answers from everyone on here about this but here's my $0.02 worth.
I have a S2000/25 (the 25cc version, identified by having 25CC stamped on the edge of the lhs mounting beam, also the gap between the top cylinder fin and the lowest head fin being twice the width of the other gaps) and it's totally un-critical on plugs although I use either OS 8's or Enya 3's. It's fuel that will hold the answer to your problem, 0% nitro and 12% castor is the preferred fuel for the S2000/3000 series and they definitely run best on this, I also use 5% nitro, 15% synth 2% castor when it's very cold and it runs fine on this. Please stay away from the American "more nitro is better" theology with these engines, it just upsets the timing and causes hesitation and deadsticks.
Dave :^)

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Dave, I preach this also, the only two stroke fuel I own is Fox 5% nitro/20% castor, I have also used their 5% with 20% 50/50 blend it is excellent also.

scriptt

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for all the help guys,

One more question, it says 25cc on it. Is that equal to a 1.20 size?

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

That is a Super Tigre 2500. The S-2000 was the case. The displacement is 25cc or 1.5 cu. in. I ran 16-8 or 18-6 props, but I'll bet one of the APC 17-6 props would be good.

Morgan made a low oil fuel called Super-T fuel. Don't go any more than 10% nitro or you may get detonation. 5% is better.

Mine always started with 1 back flip-I never used a starter on any 2500, 3000 or 3250 because they always started so easily by hand.

Kweasel

My Feedback: (29)

The 20cc ST2000 is a great running, easy handling engine that will outlast most others by a considerable margin. Handling qualities of the 20cc version are much better than the larger versions equaling those of the famed OS108. Starting mine never required more than one reverse flip. Their only downside is that they weigh nearly a pound more than newer 120s. I never found mine to be picky about prop size, fuel, or glow plugs and the stock carb worked well without muffler pressure when propped above 9000 rpm. Lean the low needle for longest low idle and see if it sputters at 40%-70%, if it does then a 7D will be better, if it stays clean your carb is good.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Weight does have it's advantages.

scriptt

My Feedback: (5)

What exactly is a "reverse flip"?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You flip the prop backwards and bounce the piston off the compression stroke. The engine will start in the correct direction

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

Byron makes a Super Tigre Blend. That is what I run in mine. Back flip works like this. Open the carb fully. Flip through compresion 2-3 times with choke. Then flip through twice with no choke. Now bring the carb back to idle and attach the glow plug ignitor. Then I put my middle finger on the face of the prop and my thumb on the spinner. Then I back flip it with a motion like snapping your fingers. Once you master this it will start the first try every time.
BTW I like the OS "F" plug better than the 8 in my big Tigres.

David

shakeelsid

Is it that complicated? - I use back flip on all my glow engines over 40. Just use a chicken stick and flip the prop backwards through the compression cylcle, as if you were starting the engine wrong way around. Glow engines are induction timed through the crank to run only in one direction. They would start normally. Ocassionally, on smaller engines, you would have a reverse start, just close the throttle and try again.

The benefits are, prop trailing edge remains sharp and smooth. Leading edges are thicker and take the chicken stick stresses easier.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I was talking about starting a 3250 Super Tigre. If you flip it through compression it will come back around and slap the stick out of your hand. I smaller glow can be done like you said. I should also say once you find the right amount choke and prime. It can easily be started by just spinning it back by the spinner.

David

shakeelsid

Yes Ditto - Large glow engines. Ok I dont have a 3250, but do have the older 3000, a 2500 as well as 2000 - Why do you think it will slap back? It will only come back when it reaches BTDC on the next compression stroke, by that time your stick and hand is way out of prop arc.
This has been my standard starting technique for many years now. Choking and priming is dependant upon the fuel system and engine installation in the model - on some models you need to choke and prime for the first start of the day, on others it may be every start - but most modellers know that. The only engines that dont start with a back flip are Tartan ST-7G and ST-77G, both are happy to run backwards as well.
This is an old technique for starting glow engines. In early 1910s there was this large (80 HP) rotary methanol glow engine called leRhone, it was started with the same technique.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I don't think it will slap back. It think it will come around and catch the back of your stick(or hand). On a 3250 by the time you have it pushed past TDC it is coming back around in a hurry. I am not saying it can't be done. I am saying it will bite you now and then pushing it past TDC. So why do it? If you do it the way I do your stick or hand is never in the prop arc. To each his own I guess. Do it the way you feel comfortable. But I would never teach someone to do it your way. I think my way is safer.

David

shakeelsid

No it will not, David, you are mixing two separate things together. Let me explain.

1. Your start procedure uses a supercharged mixture which pre-ignites or detonates well before the piston reaches the TDC. Yes, you are right, if I supercharged my mixture then it will probably kick as it will pre-ignite, but I dont think it will be disasterous. when you intend to push the prop down through the compression cycle, you have a constant load on it and thus the stick will just slip off - I know because off and on I do get a supercharged situation and the resultant kick back - And yes I know the flick technique well.

2. My start procedure (which many people use) uses a normal charge, the piston fires in the opposite rotation, supercharges as it reaches the next compression cycle, kicks back and starts normally.

I can start the engine either way, but I think the effort required to supercharge the chamber (choking, mixing and flushing) is just too much bother - instead, I could just insert the glow clip, flip the prop backwards and the engine is purring.

both techniques work, but I like simple solutions.

cheerios

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

No problem. I see what you are saying now. I thought you were getting it wet like I was and then pushing it through. My way is not as hard as it seems and it will start everytime on the first flip. Sound like two good ways to get the same job done.

Good flying to you,
David

PopPhil

My Feedback: (8)

Hi all, just received 2 ST 2000's, and one of them is stamped 2500 on the mounting rail. Is the rod longer in the 2500?. I'm running a ST 90 with a OS 86 carb and Perry pump, "STRONG ", on a ShowTime 90. Vert is no problem. I need to replace the rod in the 2500 thats why I asking. Planning on running in a 1/4 Super Cub with a OS 7D carb and Perry pump, since the carb change and adding the pump on the 90 worked so well.

Kweasel

My Feedback: (29)

The rod in the 2000 and 2500 share the same part no. even though the 2500 has a longer stroke. The 2500s bore increase is taken from the 2000s extra heavy liner and not the case. This makes the 2000 one extremely overbuilt engine.

twistedskies

So after reading all the posts here is the FAI fuel god to run in these big Tigres?

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

No, there is fuel formulated especially for the big ST's. It contains 10-12% oil and no or a low nitro%

twistedskies

Isnt the FAI 0 nitro and 20% oil

twistedskies

Where can I get the fuel from

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Thats not correct.

The S2000 and the S2500 are the EXACT same engine. The one and ONLY difference, is the 2500 has a cylinder that has been overbored and fitted with a larger piston.

You can take a 2000 and turn it into a 2500 by simply dropping in the liner from the 2500 and changing pistons.

The front of the case is the exact same on the 2000, 2500 and 3000. They ALL have the exact same crank stroke. BUT, the 3000 has a larger rod journal on the crank. So, NO, you can't swap cranks with the S3000. You CAN swap the entire front housing (crank and all) between the S2000 and the S2500.

The rod, stroke and crank is all the same with the S2000 and the S2500. Again, ONLY difference is an overbored cylinder liner and larger piston on the 2500.

The S3000 has a taller case. They did this so that they could increase the length of the rod. The S3000 case and rod are significantly longer/taller than the other 2 engines. The longer rod in the S3000 doesn't have anything to do with displacement. Remember, the stroke is the same in this engine. The longer rod reduces the angle at the bottom of the stroke when the piston is being shoved into the side of the cylinder. It is purely a "longevity" design to prevent the radical rod angles when the piston is at BDC and on it's way back up the cylinder.

Again, parts on the S2000 and S2500 are IDENTICAL except for the liner and piston. The cylinder bore in the case is even the same. The thickness of the liner on the 2500 is just thinner because it's been punched out a little bit more.

Agreed on the nitro. IMO 10% is too much and 15% is simply waiting on the explosion to happen. I always ran Omega 5% in my ST engines. NEVER had a bit of problems with this fuel. It's got 17% oil and some would argue thats too much--or not necessary. Hogwash. I did it for about 100 gallons of fuel between these 3 engines and never had a problem. Even ran that fuel in a ST4500 for a short time. No problems. Just because you CAN run less oil, doesn't mean you HAVE too. It's perfectly acceptable to run a fuel with a little more oil.

I swapped the carbs on the S2000, S2500 and S3000 to the OS 7D. I fussed and fussed with the ST carbs and never could get the midrange to clean up. I tried all the fixes--plugs, fuel, rotating the spraybar. None of it worked to my satisfaction. You CAN clean up the midrange a bit by rotating the spraybar. But I'm very picky about how my engines run and I was never satisfied with the midrange burble with the stock carbs. Switching to the 7D was a miracle. I picked up 300RPM on the S3000. Low end idle and transition was flawless and I could fly around at 1/3 throttle for a whole tank without fear of a flame out from loading up.