dynasel

I have OS Four Stroke Twin Cylinder Engines FT-160 & FT-300. I have observed that both engines gives out excessive oil !QUOT! Castor !QUOT! out of breather nipple, is it normal ?. I do not get so much oil from my other OS 4-Stroke Engines FS-120 Surpass, FS-91 & FS-70 these engines do not have any breather nipple. I have problem of quiting on one cylinder on both twins on the ground when idling as well as in the air. I use Technoplate synthetic oil in ratio Methanol 80% + Klotz 18% + Castor 2%. If on board glow is a must , what brand and
type of on board glow should be installed to have good engine performance.

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

Maybe you would get better results by posting this in the "Engines" forum?

My OS 160 seems to produce a lot of oil from the breather.

This tells me that the oil is actually getting down into the crankcase and at least trying to lubricate things.

Gremlin Castle

My Feedback: (14)

I have been flying the FT 160s since 1990 and have experienced the same oil flow as you are speaking of. These engines were are older designs than the single cylinder models that you mention. They have more blow by because at that time it was not known what the minimum crankcase oiling requirements were.
As for quitting on one cylinder, first try OS type F glow plugs and set the idle slightly rich. For some reason these engines prefer a richer idle mixture than their single cylinder engines.
I know that you do not have the benefit of nitromethane for you fuel so it may take a little more fine adjustment to get a reliable idle. As for glow driver systems the easiest is a micro switch and a sub C NI Cad set to come on when the engine is 20 to 25% above the idle speed.
Good luck with them they really are good smooth engines once they are adjusted.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I have two OS 160 twins (one fifteen years old and one new one with new style carb) and have found that onboard glow is helpfull. I use JR's Expert glow driver but you can use a micro-switch on servo.

I have also found a person HAS to mount a Perry oscillating pump underneath the motor on a 2" wide piece of aluminum notched out to fit around motor crankcase and held with mount screws.
Motor will idle with much reliability and that will solve alot of your problems.
Jim

Kweasel

My Feedback: (29)

My 300 spits allot of oil from the breather, once I installed a catcher tank and It filled up much faster than I expected. It seemed that half of the oil in the fuel was passing through the crankcase. It always drops a cylinder at idle but it always comes back on line as soon as the throttle is advanced. Im burning CoolPower 5% with the stock plugs.

jaycam

I just found this thread looking for some answers to some issues I'm having with my new OS 1.60 twin. I flew one great flight today then I began to run into some issues. First, I lost a cylinder on the runway, so I shut it down and broke it down for an inspection. I noticed that my carburetor is filling with fuel. Once I shut the plane down, I tilt the nose down and about two teaspoons of fuel (not oil), pour out of my carb. WHY!! Is this what causes the "loading up" of an engine? And is this normal for a twin, this is my first twin and I am not used to it's characteristics. Also, I only have a remote glow and not an onboard glow and maybe that when it is idling, fuel is being pumped but not used and in the end just filling the carb. Also, I only have about 2.5 tanks thru it and maybe it does need much more run time to really shine. Is an onboard glow something I really need or will the break in eventually help with the idle? I hope that you all might be able to give me some good feedback, I am flying a beautiful clipped wing super cub and would hate to lose her due to carelessness on my part or by cutting corners. Thank you for your help.

Mike

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

I would not consider this engine broken in until it has about a gallon thru it. On board glow is not required but it makes it easier to start and does give a very low idle. The fuel running out is probably because the tank is higher than the carb and tipping the nose down makes this even more so. I have a mcdaniel on board on mine. Your other option is a Cline regulator, with it you will not need on board glow and fuel will not run out the carb. It is also cheaper and much lighter.

stelios

My Feedback: (4)

As for the OS FT-160 that I have 2 years now flying I can tell you these:

- Definitely you don't need on board glow

- You don't need pumps if tank is behind the firewall

- Run 1,5 gallons through it and then adjust the needles and valves and fly it.

- If you can't have the tank at carb level as instructed by OS you should expect some fuel flow out of the carb only if you left throttle open while engine is "off". Use a clip on fuel line to cure that. When the engine is "on" there should be no problem presumed that you have adjusted and leaned the needles correctly.

- A lot of oil comes out of the crank nipple which is normal for this engine.

- The engine idles fine at 1,700 - 2,000 rpms and never drops a cylinder. On 10% nitro peaks at 9,000 on MA 16x6 prop.

- I have run it successfully in many planes even in an Extra 300s and performed all aerobatic maneuvers flawlessly. Never drop a cylinder.

- The engine idles better on flex exhaust pipes because they allow you to lean low speed needle much more. With them it can idle at 1,500 rpms all day long without glow driver. However, they spoil the sound.

Keep things simple and try it once more. It is worthwhile.

Stelios

duzall

Have flown OS 300 FT in 1/3rd Flybaby Bipe for 10yrs, with onboard glow, only time it flames out is if it needs new plugs (OS F), sure it does put a fair bit of oil out breather, but nothing like as much resdue on plane as glow 2 stroke 160. (The on board glow is simply nicads and micro switch to throttle at below 1/3 open. Nice slow idle and real neat not to have to mess with connecting up starter batteries. I hand start wearing a thick leather glove, provided you give a healthy choke first start of the day it generally starts first flick, although it does sometimes start in reverse. In which case a flick backwards gets it going right. (Make sure it is well secured as its got a bit of grunt!

ReturningRCflyer

I've had a FT 300 that I fitted to a 1/3 scale Sig spacewalker for a little over 20 years now. since at the beginning I set up my Ft 300 with the crankcase breather was connected to pressurized the tank. I've used it in that set up for almost a year maybe. i stopped the hobby 20 years ago and just now coming back into it (my last flight with my spacewalker was 1990). last week, I start going through with my spacewalker, seems everything are okay. I replaced my radio to futaba 7 channel 2.4 ghz. I did not do anything with the engine, it turns easy when i flip the prop. actually started on my first flipped. I ran the engine with one tank full and did not notice any problem. so the next day, I went to the flying field started theengine, seems everything was okay. it took me a while before i have the courage to go ahead and push the throttle. when I finally think I have the feeling into it, I pushed the throttle all the way and the plane start to raise the tail then suddenly engine stops. I am really glad the engine quits before the actual lift off or else it will be history. :-). took the plane home thinking there might be a varnish builds up everywhere. open and dismantled the carburator. (I've read some thread about the crank breather that must be left open) I just wonder if I did some damaged with the engine when still set up to pressure the tank?. anyway this time I left it open. Yesterday, I test run the engine again with 20x8 prop at 7,500 rpm at steady full throttle with one fulltank (24 oz.) needle valve settingat 2.3 turns open. I think this time I am really ready for the first flight from idled for 20 years. any precautionary inputs will be greatly appreciated. thank you for reading.

Pictures of my spacewalker after 20 years of being in the storage in my gallery. The heli is newly built. just had it a month ago and haven't flown it yet. still in the fine tuning stage. had the engine run once yesterday.

The Ghost

I have the Magumn 160 twin, it has a oily vent, normal from all the people that have the twins(OS,Magumn,ASP, ect). I fixed the problem with glow plugs by converting to spark, still running on glow. Idle 1600 and has never quit since.

Cheers

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

There is no provision to pressurize the fuel tank when you use an O.S. twin-cylinder engine. They really don't need tank pressure. The breather nipple on the bottom of the crankcase is just that: a breather. It must be kept clear. You can run some tubing from the breather to exit the bottom of the cowl, but that's it. It's won't deliver pressure anywhere. Air goes in and out as the engine runs.

Daniel-EL

My Feedback: (9)

I've had very good experience with my [link=http://tinyurl.com/26v3ouk]ElectroDynamics[/link] on-board glow set-up for both my OS-160 and 300 Twins. I've never had a cold cylinder from day 1.

dynasel

I would like to ask THE GHOST , he has converted his Magnum 160 to use Ignition Module, which is normally used on
Gasoline Engines. I am interested to understand the Timing set up and if the spark plug are Glow Plugs ?. I have a new OS 160-Twin
and would like to convert it to use Ignition Module instead of on board glow.

dynasel

My appology to The Ghost, Glow Plugs have been changed to Spark Plugs, are you using NGK CM-6 ?., if there enough
space available to bore out the head to accommodate Spark Plug?

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

They are probably using 1/4-32 Rimfire plugs. $17.00 a piece. If you want a new $50.00 rcexl twin ignition (plugs extra) pm me and I'll send the link.

I have never had to use on board glow on the 160 twin. I did use a Mcdaniel onboard glow for starting but removed it to save weight. Now I start it with one glow driver and then move it to the other cylinder to light it off.

I run Byron 10% nitro 18% oil fuel.

The Ghost

Dynasel,

The unit I am using is for glow conversions, may have different internal timing to gas unit, I don't know if thay are different or not but it works great. The plugs that I use are NGK ME8, I was given two box fulls (48 plugs total) in the mid 80's, they are 1/4-32 plugs.

Cheers

dynasel

Dear Ghost
Appreciate the information, id possible please send me the links for supply source
for the Twin Ignition Module and Spark Plug.
Regards.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Sorry,

The cost is $66.48 for the 1/4-32 twin ignition.

The Ghost

dynasel, [link=http://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=289]HERE[/link] is the link for the twin unit, I used this one with 90deg plug ends.
You will have to strip the motor to drill and tap the crankcase to take the ign pickup. I had to replace the bearings in mine and that is when I converted it over.

Cheers

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Same ignition.

ReturningRCflyer

"When you adjust the valves for the engine, you use the two "feeler" gauges that came in the valve tool kit.  When you have the engine turned so that one of the valves are off the cam, the thin feeler will fit, and the thick one won't.  It's a "go/no-go" type setup.  Very easy to remember." < is this the proper way to set up valve clearance for both intake and exhaust valve for an FT 300? I need clarification please. Thank you.