longdan

I'm looking at anew build and am thinking of a custom made fuel tank. I'm thinking of soldering one up from thin copper sheet.
I was wondering if glow fuel prodused any reactions with copper. Would I be better off using the 'tin' (im pretty sure they are steel since a magnet sticks to them) sheets that are sold in hobby shops?

j.duncker

My Feedback: (2)

In my control line days we used tin sheet to make tanks.

We recycled the big dried milk tins but I think nowadays they have some kind of coating on the inside that does not solder well. So hobby shop tinned sheet it is.

Copper would work as well but be heavier and I think may be attacked by nitro.

w8ye

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The Acme company used to make brass control line tanks back in the good old days

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I always thought they had a good look to them.

bogbeagle

You can easily solder the steel that is used for the manufacture of biscuit tins and such-like.

I should imagine that this material would likely outlive any model in which you care to put it.

I'd be inclined to modify a commercial container, such as an aerosol can; or a can that has a screw-top into which you can fit your connectors.

Jim Thomerson

Most folks who make tanks use "tin", maybe 10 thou steel. Copper would work but would be heavier and softer. Copper works fine with nitro. It is brass which has problems. I've had the old Acme brass tanks corrode and leak.

Sport_Pilot

Check out the metal tanks on www.brodak.com

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Those look like the old Froom tanks?

Sport_Pilot

I think Brodak aquired some tank companies, or at least their patterns. But ACME is there with their name, starting about page 17.

w8ye

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I was thinking that there was a guy that came along and started making the old style tanks for Brodak? Actually had nothing to do with Perfect, Acme, or Froom other than semblance. Nuturally they are purely functional.

jessiej

They still do: www.acmemodel.com/tanks.htm

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I feel like a youngster in this crowd.

All of my control line fuel tanks were of the Perfect brand. That was all that the local hobbyshop carried. Worked for me!


Ed Cregger

Lnewqban

Have any of these metal tanks ever used for RC airplanes?

If so, being closed, what the solutions have been for the flexible pick up tube and for the contact of the metal clunk with the tank walls?[sm=confused.gif]

Jim Thomerson

Metal tanks with flexible clunks are used by several people in CL stunt. They seem to work fine.

jaka

Hi!
Tin tanks can of course be used where ever you want.
I have made two 110cc tin tanks used in my DC-3, powered by two OS .26 four strokes.
Tin plate is much lighter then copper and stronger than brass.

But why solder a tin tank if it isn't necessary?? I made my own tanks for the Marutaka DC-3 because I needed at least 100cc volume for each engine (at least 10min flight time) and at the same time I had very little room inside the engine nacelles.

jessiej

Beautiful work!

jess

Lnewqban

The best part is the throttle pushrod that goes thru the tank!!![sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Allow me to ask again:

Being closed, what the solutions have been for the flexible pick up tube and for the contact of the metal clunk with the tank walls?

Any radio interference produced by that big area of metal?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I used some of those Acme B5 and U3 tanks back in the old days. I bought them from AHC.

I used more Perfects though

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I always started out with a new tank on a new model.

The old tanks were potential trouble with dirt and trash in the lines.

I do remember the old clear plastic fuel lines would turn milky and hard after a couple months and have to be replaced

Jim Thomerson

I think the flexable tubing I've seen used in metal clunk tanks is red, but I don't know what it is. I'll ask.

Sport_Pilot

Most metal tanks have no flexible pickup. For most RC they are not good for aerobatic flight. Some however use the same clunk system as with plastic tanks, I think they just solder a collar over a hole and use the same stopper, tubing, and clunk they use for plastic.

jaka

Hi!
As in a plastic tank you can use a flexible (silicon) clunk in a tin tank too. No problem!
There is however one thing to keep in mind when soldering a tin tank...and that is never ever use "Stay Bright" silver solder and its acid flux.
When I soldered my tin tanks for my DC-3 half a year went by before mounting the tanks in the engine nacelles. Luckily I tested the tanks prior to mounting them and one leaked! I noticed that one of the tanks had lots of microscopic holes in the sides. Closer inspection revealed that the tank had severe rust inside and that the rust had corroded the sides of the tank thin as paper...
The second tank was not affect by any rust at all. Why?? That tank had been filled with fuel after I soldered it, for checking any leaks, and the fuel (synthetic oil) contained anti oxidation chemicals.

Made one new tank and now used rosin core flux instead of the "Stay Brite" flux variety.

Lnewqban

Very interesting, Jaka; thanks.

What about the contact of the metal clunk with the tank walls?

Any radio interference produced by that big area of metal?

longdan

I don't think radio interference would be an issue because the clunk is normally brass (i.e non-ferrous), so it doesn't affect the magnetism in the steel (tin) tank as it vibrates against it.

longdan

I'm wanting a tank that will give maximum volume for the available space. The plastic tanks supplied with ARFs make use of about 50-60% of the space available in the nose.
The reason I want a big tank is because I'm planning on running a Wankel. These things drink glowfuel like Barney drinks Duff. And I want more than a 2-3 minute flight. So I'm hoping to make a tank that takes maximum advantage of the space available.

BTW - I've always loved the DC-3. I went for a flight in one a few years ago and it was one of those experiences that you remember for the rest of your life. Even got to go up to the cockpit. But they wouldn't let me take the controls