What RPMs did you get with the 12x4 and the 11x6?

Ken

I was getting 11,070 rpms running the engine on the test stand using a 11x6 Master Airscrew prop. I didn't measure the 12x4 prop though.
The engine was still quite new, I was still running it a little on the rich side. I expect it could likely do 12,000+ after getting more time on it.

OK li'll get that Cub question out of the way. I ended up using an ASP .61 four stroke and the weight is just about right, so... the lighter Norvel would need lots of uselsess weight.

Someone said I'd be flying off the wing. That's how I learned to fly. In 1977 I started teaching myself to fly using an old Kraft sport system with HUGE full size servos and heavy battery and heavy receiver. Imagine 2 or three of those servos in a 42 inch foam plane with an .09 Cox Medallion and underpowered screams at me. I have progressed and do like to overpower and then throttle back. The Cub only has 2 flights on it but nearly straight up is in it's bag of tricks. I have problems slowing down to actually land at dead idle !
I have experienced first hand the joy of full sized, overpowered Cubs. Last fall (Sep. 2013) at the NEAT Fair in NY, I bribed a full scale pilot with 5 lobsters for a ride in his Carbon Cub.
He's a big guy. With just him in it he takes off in under 100 feet. With me too in the back seat the climb was VERY brisk, actually the stall warning was going off most of the climb.
Thank GOD for lobsters.
Al

I have great results using APC 11X6 or 10X7 depending on the plane used. In a larger or trainer type I use the 11X6 and for sport models the 10X7 is the ticket. 11X6 is best for break in.

I think I am going to cause a stir when I fly mine . Building a DB Sports 40 for the engine should weight around 4.5 lb. ready to fly. I will also try a Bolly 10.5 x7.

Well anyway, the engine works pretty good.
I video recorded a few flights using the engine on my plane.
Here is one video clip. I typically fly around at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle most of the time. I was trying to get the hang of hovering, etc,
<br> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgVW1gLOeGw

Hi Earl would you say that your 40 has the power closer to a 40-46 or a 30 size 2 stroke ? Cheers the pope

It runs more like a .46 two stroke glow engine.

What is the prop shaft size of this engine. Can't find that information on the NV Engines site.

Flight test report. Engine monted on a Lucky Stick , ARF by Model Tech, and total wt. unknown. Engine started easy enough but needles need to be reset.As Earl said power good as a 46 .In mid range engine the stutters and seems to indicate that it may need a higher octane fuel.
My travel cost to the field is higher than the cost of the fuel used by the engine.Down side exhaust is dirty .Prop is 9*x6* apc . Fuel as per manufacturer s req.. Quite happy with the result

.40 gas engine
 

If I were to buy a gas engine it would be a 20-50cc model. The fuel cost of a .40 cu in doesn't warrant buying one......however a 120 to 180 it would to me.just a thought. Geeter

I made a mistake earlier, I checked by order and the studs are really 6mm. Sorry about that.
I got them from http:\www.belmetric.com
Products
------------------------------------------------------
10 x S6X50E - Metric Stud (S6X50E) = $8.70
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $8.70
Flat Rate (Best Way): $7.00
Total: $15.70

I have finally got round to ordering one.While I'm waiting for it I will mix up some fuel.What is the petrol to oil ratio and will it run on E10 petrol?

Its %14 castor I used klotz as its what the manufacturer recommends ( please dont everyone get into a oil war as everyone can do as they please ) and as your in Aus I used premium unleaded from the Ampol servo and it works well , cant remember what the octane rating is . The klotz is from H.H.Q if your L.H.S. doesnt have it . Cheers the pope

I find it easiest to mix 7oz of Klotz Benol with 43oz of fuel for an easy mix and it takes a while to go through that much fuel anyway.

As a side note I find I am getting about 18 months out of the K&S fuel line here in Florida before it starts to stiffen from the heat. Probably should replace fuel lines once a year anyway but most of us don't until there's an issue.

Also do not let the fuel lines touch the engine, especially the cylinder fins. The cylinder fins have sharp edges and adding in the engine heat, the cylinder fins will saw through the fuel tubing in a matter of a few seconds if it takes even that long.

Thanks all round for the advice.It seems that there are a few do's and dont's particular to these engines.

You didnt happen to get the glow version needle when u were ordering did you . The one I have is pretty touchy and others have ordered the glow needle with better results . Cheers

Pope
I will see how I go with the standard needle, if necessary I can order a glow one later, hopefully wont need it.

H i there Burf , Its not necessary to get one But if I Know what I Know now I would have ordered one with the engine . You will like the engine Im sure .Just remember a few clicks on the needle goes a long way . Hopefully the rumored 60 is on the cards . Good luck from the pope

I use a one gallon fuel container. So I simply pour in 18 ounces of Klotz Benol and then add a gallon of gasoline. One doesn't have to be very precise with it all either.

Ha! What did I say? Everyone is working on their own version of this concept.

http://www.towerhobbies.com/products...smg1513_e.html

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2017758

This one's a little bigger than the Norvel. When they said "15" I thought they meant 2.5cc at first...

Iskandar

The OS is 399.00 but does run 50:1, the version with electronic ignition is 50.00 cheaper and runs 25:1.

I put a Walbro carb on my ST 90, four stroke plug with Coleman fuel, runs good on the bench.

I have the NV , and it runs just fine!

FINALLY...I've been wondering when something like this was coming out. When I got my NV 49gx I started experimenting with my other glow engines and found that if you left the glow heat on some of them ran pretty well. An ASP .28 I have actually runs better than the NV did, which I sold last year as it was needed a little more fiddling than I liked...plus my plane was no cleaner than if it had a regular glow engine.

The only thing that seems to prevent an ordinary glow engine from running fine on gasoline (with glow heat) is the carb , the glow plug functions fine for ignition, the glow carb is hard to adjust....you need a pumper carb. I have spark plug inserts coming to experiment in weedeater engines and in my DLE 20.

As soon as this OS is $50 CHEAPER than the spark version then I'll bite, but I suspect a flood of competitors will be just around the corner.

I'll post the results of my experiments when I get a chance to test, but I suspect the STIHL engine I bought junked for $10 will run great.

The price of gas fuel is only a little bit cheaper than glow fuel, so spending $400 bucks seems too steep to justify the savings.