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-   -   bad engines (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/glow-engines-114/11376156-bad-engines.html)

Mr-Punk 10-06-2013 10:53 PM

I like how this thread has came full circle guys! From bashing every engine made to the oddballs and black sheep. I've enjoyed the reading about old and weird engines. I agree just about all modern engines can be made to run well with a little tinkering. I've ran plenty of Cox's and Foxes and most others. Only engine I had a little trouble with was a new Cox .049 reed Skymaster. After I took it apart got the debris out of the reed and changed the needle for an old original Cox Babe Bee needle I had laying around, I got it running and broke in. Now it runs ok. It was a new one from Cox Canada. Don't know if it was pieced together from old parts but the new glow heads were rougher machined than the oldies.

A new guy was asking about Fox at the field one day. I'm the only one that will fly engines other than OS or Satio. Another member laughed and said ask Jimmy (me). "I replied they will teach you how to tune an engine properly. And if you don't tune it properly it WILL teach you how to land." lol They aren't set it and forget fly em after 1 tank OS's. But they are light, make great power, are American, and will outlast several planes and probably most Asian made engines. One thing I've noticed even if you make a mistake and set it a little lean the worst I've seen is sagging rpm on climb out. Remedy: throttle back circle, land then richen needle. Fly em too lean they over heat and quit. Too rich they'll gargle sputter and quit. Guess what?? not a peeled liner, scored piston or bad bearings. Let it cool off and read the instructions. Finish breaking it in, get it tuned and practice some landings with the engine still running. You might have to put sand in the fuel to wear one out. :-P Just my experience with the old lapped steel and iron bb 40s. I tached my 40 std bb just today 12,640 on a 10x7 and over 11,000 on 10x8. Not shabby for a 20 year old "bad" engine that should have been put back in the box. 1 flip start hot or cold, fun sport flying and it don't even eat plugs. But it does drink, really just sips gallon after gallon of fuel. :-) Oh and they bark a little loud with the standard muffler. :-)

Peace,
J

GallopingGhostler 10-07-2013 08:48 AM

Got to agree with you there, Mr-Punk. Regarding the Oriental offerings, one series I've been enjoying are my legacy iron piston Enya engines. Follks were amazed yesterday how long it flew on only one ounce of fuel. Also, they were curious about this odd looking engine, which I explained was a 1966 Enya .09-III TV with Tatone .09-.19 Peace Pipe muffler with NOS Top Flite 7x6 wood prop. Gary, a long time modeler, familiar with these engines contributed how he liked the sound of the engine. It has a slightly lower growl, able to swing steeper pitched or wider diameter props at a slower RPM than Schneurle, but pull the plane with the same authority. This is ditto for my Enya .15-III TV, swinging an 8x6 prop giving it the same speed in flight as an OS Max .15FP Schneurle with 8x4 prop.

These older cross scavenged engines are strong torque engines. :eek:

50+AirYears 10-07-2013 06:01 PM

I'm still kind of undecided about whether or not a mention of my old Cub .19 belongs here or not. Power wise, it was somewhere between my Fox .19 (high end) and a McCoy RH .19 (low side) I had. A real bear to start, no matter what fuel I used. About break your eardrums when running. Flew pretty fast laps, but pick the nose up for a loop, and it got quiet very quickly. I got maybe 45 runs on it in the 1- or so years I had it. mostly bench runs, but when I dumped it, it still had fantastic compression. I think it took more blood from me than the Induction center and Air Force medics combined. I think it needed an application of the Lustrox or whatever it was that Fox used to sell to speed up break-in. After a while, I started to wear leather gloves to start it. Stopped the finger cuts, but still gave me plenty of nasty whacks across the knuckles.

tiffitech 10-11-2013 04:28 AM

Hi,
I have an unrun Testors McCoy 35 laying here, that one with the rectangular crankcase.
It misses the Head and at least the needle. The Needle Valve is there, but w.o the nut.
I want to know what kind of thread the needle has and how it should look like, so that I
can possibly make one. As for the Head, has someone a useless one laying around?
Picture from such an engine where really nice..

Regards,

Holm

Sport_Pilot 10-11-2013 04:44 AM

I have one, not sure about the needle but has a head. But I wouldn't mind getting it to run as well. It has a broken exhaust port so the muffler I had strapped to it would not work. Actually I wouldn't mind another, it was actually pretty good, so if you give up I might consider buying yours.

GallopingGhostler 10-11-2013 10:28 AM

If your Testor McCoy .35 Red Head is the same as mine (earlier non-lightning bolt one), needle thread is 2-56. Haven't checked the NVA assembly nut thread. IMO, haven't tried it myself yet so YMMV (your mileage may vary), one could plug the needle end with a short 2-56 bolt and use a remote NVA, such as the Fox.

tiffitech 10-11-2013 12:21 PM

Thanks George. I found a similar engine on Ebay :290990440355
As you can see, that isn't a Red Head, it's a Black Head. I don't know if the heads are similar
with the Bolt Pattern or the combustion chamber shape, but the Red Heads seems to have the
Glow plug moved a little to the front, where on that Black Head the Plug seems to sit central.
On the right mounting lug on mine is to read "McCOY 35" and TesTors is to read on a batch
on the backplate. I've never seen the original Head, got the engine without it in a Box of Parts.
The Piston seems to have a Dykes Ring.


@Sport_Pilot:

...you are really not that nice to me...
Selling this Engine is eaxt the opposite to that what I wanted to do.


Regards,

Holm

GallopingGhostler 10-11-2013 12:39 PM

Some of the parts are interchangeable, Holm. If join http://brotherhoodofthering.info/ (Brotherhood of the Ring - Ringmasters forum), you'll find threads on interchanging parts on these McCoys. The Black Head Series 21 is improved over the Red Heads, but is heavier. Some have changed out the piston and cylinder set to have a superior lightweight and upgraded Red Head, but there are some things to be aware of between different sizes and models, please don't rely on my word.

Propworn 10-11-2013 12:46 PM

Question
 

Originally Posted by cubkadet (Post 11376623)
i also like os. they are my favorite engine.

Well I think you've answered your own question stick with what you like and have confidence in. Every engine will have its detractors as such the opinions are kind of bias so take what is said with a grain of salt. I have my favorites and ones I don't care for but most and I do mean most can be tuned and setup/broken in so they run acceptably. It depends on your tolerance for tinkering with them until you get it right.

Absolute best way for any beginner to have success is to STOP DON"T BUY A THING until you have decided which group of local flyers you intend to associate with. Since they are the ones who will guide you they will have the best recommendations they have had success training with. It may not be what you had in mind but think about it. It’s a trainer right and most likely you have other ideas about what you eventually want to fly. While you are learning with the recommended set up you will be able to study and ask questions until you are confident about the direction you wish to pursue. Most flyers have more than one transmitter and several planes. It’s always nice to have your trainer to fly on those days you don't feel up to the high performance stuff.

Good luck let us know how you make out.
Dennis

GallopingGhostler 10-11-2013 03:07 PM

OS makes good engines. Don't know about cubkadet, but so far I have had good luck with OS. All the ones I have are plain bearing sport engines, both cross scavenged baffle piston and Schneurles. All are small, .10's, .15's and one .40FP. They're good sport flier engines, easy starting, user friendly. There might be a bad one out there, but so far have not encountered one. :eek:

50+AirYears 10-11-2013 05:15 PM

I used to have fun with Fox detractors with my Duraplane. We had several at the field with OS .40 FPs. Everybody said they needed at least a .40 to .45 to fly one. One day, one guy showed up at the field while I was flying my new one, doing a bit more than loops. Three channel like the others, but my .40 was actually a Fox .25 BB with a 9-4 prop and 10% Red Max. I was doing barrel and rough axial rolls, inverted flight, Immelmans, Cubans and reverse Cubans, and more. Had trouble convincing people the plane was doing all this with just a little ole Fox .25.

GallopingGhostler 10-12-2013 06:46 AM


Originally Posted by 50+AirYears (Post 11636634)
I used to have fun with Fox detractors with my Duraplane. We had several at the field with OS .40 FPs. Everybody said they needed at least a .40 to .45 to fly one. One day, one guy showed up at the field while I was flying my new one, doing a bit more than loops. Three channel like the others, but my .40 was actually a Fox .25 BB with a 9-4 prop and 10% Red Max. I was doing barrel and rough axial rolls, inverted flight, Immelmans, Cubans and reverse Cubans, and more. Had trouble convincing people the plane was doing all this with just a little ole Fox .25.

I agree with you, 50+AirYears. Don't know why someone would need a larger engine on a plane like that.

It's the same reason that I am putting this bad boy engine (MDS .46 Pro BB) on a Tower Hobbies 66-1/2" span GP Das Ugly Stik ARF sans engine received from a club member leaving the hobby. The modern day .45's are at least on par, some more powerful than the yesterday's .60's. This balsa plane is built light, construction looks very kit-like. It will fly on its wings. ;) Besides, the lighter engine will eliminate 5-1/2 ounces of lead weight in the tail, am now making repairs. Great Planes really did a great job on this ARF, love its construction, really easy to repair. :)


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