Bob, are you using a plastic spinner? I had trouble with my OS 70 FS trying to tighten down on plastic. I switched to an aluminum spinner and never had another problem. I think the kind that has an aluminum back plate with a plastic cone would probably be OK too. If you're already using an aluminum spinner, then I don't know what to say.

It may also be that you'd be better off with a heavier prop, like APC or MA, that would have more momentum to it, but I'm not sure about that. I've used wood props on many four strokes contrary to advise and they have worked for me, but I don't have an Enya 80 4C.

Jim

Cant think of anything short of drilling a hole across the thread stub and passing a pin through it, but doubt that you would want to do that. However, I think the problem may lie elsewhere; sometime back I was having that same problem with a Thunder Tiger 91 FS and it turned out to be that the engine was pre-detonating (back firing). I was using the same high nitro heli fuel I used to use on my Saito .56 and it was just too much for the TT. What fuel are you using?

I think I might have a solution of sorts for you. I will send you a PM. Look it up.

My PM's do not seem to be getting through...

I think I resolved the problem and yes I was using a plastic back spinner and the drive waser on the engine ate up the notches and made it perfectly smooth as in "NO GRIPPER TEETH ON THE PLASTIC". Consequently the prop slipped and I am sure that when it shut down it spun the nut. I changed to a plastic spinner with an alum. back plate and that seemed to help significantly and yes I may have been a touch lean which didn't help matters
As for a wooden prop vs. a plastic I have some reservation since just recently I had a blade fly off a MASTER AIRSCREW K series 14 x 7 prop on the run stand. Scared the hell out of me and that's why I went back to the woodies. Incidentally with the prop that broke, I contacted Tower where I bought it and they told me to contact Master which I did and to date after 2 phone calls and an email i have not even had the courtesy of a reply and this was about 1 month ago. It appears as hough neither one of them much give a damn. The irony is that it's not about the $7.00 or 8.00 bucks I just thought they would want to know about it guess I was wrong.
Lastly as to fuel used I am running VP 10% Nitro and 18% lube, seems a little messy but it runs fine.

Ironically I also thought about a drive pin drilled in but then I would lose all saftey of slip, so "NO GO ON THAT"
Thanx,and I will post how this goes down the line.
Bob Blasi

Bob,
The Enya 80 is a nice docile engine, I have at least one kicking around. Like all the Enya 4 strokes, they dislike being even a little lean on both the high speed mixture and low speed mixture. They are of a relatively high compression ratio engine and I would not run more nitro content than the fuel you are using.
I assume you are using an Enya #3 plug as well?
Reason I say that; Using a type "F" style plug in that engine with the extra protrusion into the combustion chamber (that the Enya #3 does not have), may reduce the volume of the combustion chamber just enough where the compression ratio would be increased, causing finicky needle settings and potential backfires.

Hi Fuelman,
Thanx for the post. I did not think about the F plug being capable of changing the comp. ratio but that is pehaps what I am seeing presently. It appears as though 1 notch on the NV makes a difference . I am now as I posted running a bit fat and it definitely seems to like it better. I am not using a tach because I am running presently indoors but the idle is quite low and the transition from idle to off idle is very stable and quite smooth so I'm thinking I have it or am close. As I said B4 there is quite a bit of unburned oil in the crankcase road breather nipple even after a short run, can't imagine a "RUSTING " problem, sic.
As I stated previous I will run with these setting and let you know how it goes. Incidentally I tried the line pinch test and I had no change in speed, hope it's good. This thing is more difficult to tune than the race car, with that all that's needed is a couple key hits on the computer !!!! LMAO
Thanx again,
Bob Blasi

Plug protrusion....install a extra plug gasket....might work ! Capt,n

Over the years I've seen several people calculate the difference that adding an extra gasket makes and it ain't much. It takes about 3 decimal places to get a number difference. Adding an extra gasket also displaces some of the threads of which there are precious few.

Hobbsy, is right about the exposed threads. That could cause pre-ignition from a hot edge. Would less nitro work ok with a high compression engine? The Moki engines and others do fine with no nitro in fuel. Just a thought.... Best Regards, John

Has Enya stopped selling engines on the Enya Direct website?
http://www.enya-engine.com/store13/index.php

I messaged Mr. Ken Enya about it and he answered me back stating that he was updating the site, specifically the " engines" link, and he asked me to "please be patient", lol... Its been about 7 to 8 weeks since that though...

I looked it up and it was on the 6th of April

He actually wrote "engine link is down for maintenance, please wait a little time"; on April 2 the site was still showing engines for sale, but very few (.09, .15 size and the classic .60 XF, of which I bought two). So its been now nearly 2 months and nothing. Lets hope the engine link comes back up with a few more choices than before. I just hope the end of Enya as we know it hasn't come yet.

A few days ago I wrote to [email protected] about buying an Enya 30SSBB TN, but I have not received a response. Is there another address, or some other supplier I should write to? I hope they are not just unavailable anymore. I would like to order from Japan because the dollar/yen is pretty good now.

Thank you,
Jim

Bobby (Shtterman) on eb*y sells of lots of ENYA spares and engines.

You can get a prop nut that has a nylon part that will prevent the prop from flying off. Give one a try !

Guys, looking for some ENYA information - details here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...d#post32176927 Thanks in advance

These are often referred to as "aircraft" nuts because they were originally used on full-size aircraft.

George

Just ask for Nylock nuts, that's what they're commonly called.

Hello,
Can anyone tell me the size of the muffler mounting bolts on the Enya ss40. Lost one in flight.
Thanks,
John

Enya fans will be happy to know I pulled my CX-11 out of the engine drawer, it ran once in about 1983..4..5? When did they come out?

It fired up effortlessly and ran perfectly on the test stand. Tonight I am cutting the ply mount to adapt a Goldberg Super Chipmunk EP to a proper powerplant. Fits the cowl nicely at the 4:30 position, and a 3 oz tank will sit nicely in line with the carb. Looking forward to this one. I recently finished converting a Mini Contender to .15 power and it is a riot, perfect match.

The CX series are really nice engines. The .11 has a little larger mount (wider at the beams) than a typical .10 engine and I think it will be hard to fit it inside the cowl. You might also be a little overpowered and overweight....
The Norvel .074 is a very nice fit to that plane though, fits inside the cowl, my best electric to glow "conversion" yet.

I gather you want the spacing?

looking for parts listing for enya40 model 6002...will take photo copi and pay all copi and postage costs...regards bob