RE: Club Enya
 

It is just regular solder that holds the fuel nipple in place on the carb. I've never had any problems with it, beats the friction attachment that Perry uses at least....

RE: Club Enya
 

By "regular solder", do you mean electrical tin/lead solder?
Mike MacLean

RE: Club Enya
 

Yes that's what it looks like to me. There is no heat in that part so it should be fine.

RE: Club Enya
 

Mr Cox has it. A quick dressing to remove old solder, a little bakers fluid, and use regular solder and a decent size iron, and be quick about it. Easy ...

RE: Club Enya
 

Other than "baker's fluid" (solder flux?) sounds easy and quick. I'll give it a try. I was going to use a small amount of JB Weld, but the solder should work.
Mike MacLean

RE: Club Enya
 

For whart it's worth when I solder anything I use "Nokorode" soldering flux. I've used it on copper plumbing pipe and wiring on my motorcycle. It's not recommended for electronics but I use it for that too. For your application you may find that a propane torch will work better than an iron which may not get your part hot enough. I wouild also advise cleaning the parts to be soldered with fine steel wool or fine sandpaper about 320 or 400 grit so the metal is shiney and bright.

Cheers,
Bill

RE: Club Enya
 

Its going to be tough to clean out the hole in the needle valve shaft. Maybe a proper size drill bit?
Mike MacLean

RE: Club Enya
 

I've had good luck cleaning a hole out like that by wraping fine steel wool around a drill bit and sort of honeing out the hole with my drill motor. A somewhat far fetched idea I had was to try CA glue. I don't know if it's fuel proof or not. You could put a drop of CA glue on a piece of metal, let the CA cure and emerse it in fuel to see if it reacts with alcohol and castor. A word of caution if the CA works. Apply the CA to the hole not the male part being inserted. If you apply it to the part being inserted into the hole It can lock-up on you halfway into the hole and then only heat will destroy the CA glue and allow you to remove the part. The last thing that comes to mind would be Locktite red thread locker but you would want to do the same sort of test with glow fuel.

I would be surprised if solder would attach itself to the aluminum carb body anyway. i could see coating the brass with solder and creating an interferance fit into the carb body though.

Cheers,
Bill

RE: Club Enya
 

I have had a J&B Weld fix to the fuel line to tank connection of my Austin Healey for ten years. So far no leak. At least gasoline with ethanol does not effect it. Might just work in this case too.
Mike MacLean

RE: Club Enya
 

That's an excellent thought. It's heat resistant and I would guess fuel resistant. I know a fellow who used JB Weld on his Honda motorcycle in the camshaft area of his cylinder head which is subjet to some pretty high temperatures and engine oil. He's had no trouble at all with this application. I would clean the parts to be mated with lacquer thinner to make sure they are super clean and no castor remains.

Good thinking. I would test it in glow fuel though. Stuff that's resistant to petroleum products is not always resistant to alcohol.

Cheers,
Bill

RE: Club Enya
 

I've been "doing battle" with my Enya 60-4C trying to get it dialed in to actually fly it. For some unknown reason, I cannot get it to idle low and give a good transition to wot. I can get a low idle and nice clean top end, but at those settings it cuts out and picks up off idle. The leaner the airbleed the harder it is to recover and throttle up. I usually have to throttle back to "save it". If I set the idle so it slightly loads up, it doesn't cut out on transition but is pretty burbly as it throttles up. Performance is about the same with the Fox idle bar plug vs. the OS F. I have ran fuel mixes using 5-20% nitro and 20% oil. The 20% nitro mix cleaned up the burbles and smoothed it out some but not completely. The carb is clean, the fuel is fresh and the plug is pretty new. I'm not convinced its ready, but by now it should be throttling better than it is. It has over 2hrs of runtime on it and probably 1.5 gallons of fuel on it. Idle speed during "lean" settings was 3000rpm +/-, burbly idle was about 2300rpm +/-

I've tried a lot of different settings and fuels and it throttles similar on anything I've tried. I'm running out of ideas. I am aware of how good the Enya airbleed carbs are but something seems amiss with this one. If the idle is leaned down to not load up it will cut out. Thoughts?

RE: Club Enya
 

Just wanted to thank the guys on this list that helped me with this latest project. I used the slow cooker in antifreeze overnight on low on this Enya 46 4C. I wanted to show the before and after pics. The bearings have not arrived yet and I temporarily did a partial re-assembly just to show the difference. Night and day. After cleaning up the little support bearing for the timing drive gear in the gear timing case I am going to leave it in place because it turns freely and is not gritty. Besides, I have not figured out how to get it out anyway. When I first got this engine, I turned it over and it was very notchy and the valves did not move. Of course the bearing would have to be replaced at least. When I tore it down I found the followers were stuck in their bores leaving the valves open all the time. the piston had hardened and stuck on castor oil and the crown was thick with carbon. The ring was stuck compressed. After cleaning the piston the ring springs open to seal the bore now, so I have decided not to replace it, at first. In fact, the inside is as clean as the outside now. I'll try to post a video after I get it running. Thanks again guys. The collective wisdom of this forum never fails to amaze me. Long live the internet!
MIke MacLean

RE: Club Enya
 

That's a nice looking 46-4C you got there. If it needs a ring, Frank Bowman is first rate for piston rings. My 60-4C ring was $10. When you get it running and dialed in, take a short video of the idle-WOT transition and post it if you can. I want to compare the throttle transition of your 46 to my 60. My 60 does not transition well.

These are beautiful engines. I wouldnt mind owning at least 1 of every Enya 4-stroke. The vt240 might have to be my mid life crisis purchase. LoL.

RE: Club Enya
 

Very nice looking engine. I never tried the antifreeze trick but it's obvious that it works.

Nice work,
Bill

RE: Club Enya
 

Here's mine!!! I will install it on my Kyosho Piper Cub.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYDTDDUXVBM[/youtube]

RE: Club Enya
 

I have been doing battle with my 60-4C to get a good transition out of it and it dawned on me to ask... Does the depth of the NVA have any impact on fuel mixture or transition? Mine is currently threaded nearly all the way into the carb body and backed out just enough to be able to get a fuel line on it. Could this cause a problem?

A few posts back I described the issue I'm having. Thoughts?

RE: Club Enya
 

Unless this is old news, Enya has re-released the .90 four stroke

http://enya-engine.com/90-4CTN.html

RE: Club Enya
 

Finally got my 46 4C back together. I put a new ring that Ken Enya sent me in it last night. After installing a prop, I turned it over and got almost no compression. The timing is correct and the valves were clean and looked to seat well. Am I missing something here? As for the new 90, used on Ebay is the only way I can justify the price of another Enya engine. Maybe if the dollar gets a lot stronger...
Mike MacLean

RE: Club Enya
 

It's a re issue and if interestedIi would not hesitate or you will certainly be left out as his reissues have sold out really quickly. Ken Enya has not made any more of the 60R/E or S/E engines nor the 32 or the 40XZ and even the SS35 BB has disappeared. really disappointing news to those of us who want to get another of any of these offerings.

Dennis

RE: Club Enya
 

The price is $515.22 ouch![&o]

Bruce

RE: Club Enya
 

Did you sand the inside of the liner with 400-600grit sandpaper? If not, you should. Otherwise, run it. My .60 had nearly zero compression until I ran it. After the first tank the compression really came up. After a gallon, it feels like I'm turning my 90 2-stroke over. And this is an Enya ring. I would think a Bowman ring would be a lot better.

I would just run it.

RE: Club Enya
 

So, does anyone know if the depth of the NVA into the carb on a 60-4C makes a difference? Does it effect midrange operation at all?

RE: Club Enya
 

Did you sand the inside of the liner with 400-600grit sandpaper? If not, you should. Otherwise, run it. My .60 had nearly zero compression until I ran it. After the first tank the compression really came up. After a gallon, it feels like I'm turning my 90 2-stroke over. And this is an Enya ring. I would think a Bowman ring would be a lot better.

It's a new ring from Enya. I kinda guessed the seal between the ring and the wall was not perfect. I'll sand it with some 600 grit just for insurance before I run it. MPEGs coming.
Mike

RE: Club Enya
 

Sanding the liner is basically honing it and will help seat the ring faster. It may not have a lot of compression after, probably less. Just run it. Compression will come up as it runs. I broke in the 60 using the Saito method using all castor fuel.

RE: Club Enya
 

Thanks, I'd rather not take it apart again anyway.
Mike