RE: Club Enya
Hello happy people in Enyaland. I need a little help. I have a Norvel Neofun Classic that needs an engine. I was borrowing an AP .061 from a buddy but he needed it back. So I figured since it needed more nose weight anyway, why not an Enya .09 or something along those lines. Problem is... I don't have one. Anyone got one or something close that would part with it for a nominal fee..? Been watching RCU's classifieds, only big stuff lately. I won't buy from sleazeBay either.
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RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r Hello happy people in Enyaland. I need a little help. I have a Norvel Neofun Classic that needs an engine. I was borrowing an AP .061 from a buddy but he needed it back. So I figured since it needed more nose weight anyway, why not an Enya .09 or something along those lines. Problem is... I don't have one. Anyone got one or something close that would part with it for a nominal fee..? Been watching RCU's classifieds, only big stuff lately. I won't buy from sleazeBay either. There's a real pretty .09 I.V. RC w'muffler on ebay right now going for $0.99. Item number 330866355908. I bought a nice NIB .09 a few years back on eBay. What's the risk? I have completed over 10,000 eBay/Pay Pal transactions since about 1998 and only two bad experiences which were nicely resolved. There's also a control line going for $0.99, Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: Ram Jet ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r Hello happy people in Enyaland. I need a little help. I have a Norvel Neofun Classic that needs an engine. I was borrowing an AP .061 from a buddy but he needed it back. So I figured since it needed more nose weight anyway, why not an Enya .09 or something along those lines. Problem is... I don't have one. Anyone got one or something close that would part with it for a nominal fee..? Been watching RCU's classifieds, only big stuff lately. I won't buy from sleazeBay either. There's a real pretty .09 I.V. RC w'muffler on ebay right now going for $0.99. Item number 330866355908. I bought a nice NIB .09 a few years back on eBay. What's the risk? I have completed over 10,000 eBay/Pay Pal transactions since about 1998 and only two bad experiences which were nicely resolved. There's also a control line going for $0.99, Cheers, Bill I'll keep my eyes open, but if anyone has an engine they don't want anymore, I'll give it a good home. I have lots of castor oil. |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: Ram Jet ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r Hello happy people in Enyaland. I need a little help. I have a Norvel Neofun Classic that needs an engine. I was borrowing an AP .061 from a buddy but he needed it back. So I figured since it needed more nose weight anyway, why not an Enya .09 or something along those lines. Problem is... I don't have one. Anyone got one or something close that would part with it for a nominal fee..? Been watching RCU's classifieds, only big stuff lately. I won't buy from sleazeBay either. There's a real pretty .09 I.V. RC w'muffler on ebay right now going for $0.99. Item number 330866355908. I bought a nice NIB .09 a few years back on eBay. What's the risk? I have completed over 10,000 eBay/Pay Pal transactions since about 1998 and only two bad experiences which were nicely resolved. There's also a control line going for $0.99, Cheers, Bill I'll keep my eyes open, but if anyone has an engine they don't want anymore, I'll give it a good home. I have lots of castor oil. Ok Quickie, here 's the deal. Remember, this is from a dodo with 10,000 transactions. First off, set a price you will pay for it. Bid on it at $0.99 and put it up in your "Bidding" item list to keep an eye on it. Someone will come in and bid, say, $2.00. Let it go, you've got six days to sit it out. With one day to go bid on it again so that you are winning. Now you've got 24 hours in which if you get outbid ebay will E-mail you. Decision time. You said you would only spend $25.00 and it's at $16.00 now. Make sure that within two minutes of the bid closing your computer has a 1 - 2 second response time. 20 seconds before the close of bidding you bang in your $25.00. You win or lose. Boo hoo, I'll send you some Kleenex. .09s, by the way, are going for dirt lately on eBay. Live large, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
I better turn up my PowerBoost then. LoL. I'll look into it next week; getting ready for the baby shower this weekend. (I'll be ice fishing) thanks Bill! Hopefully things work out and I can get (1) sale on my résumé.
P.S. which is the more ideal model? IV V VI? Not sure how many models of .09 exist... |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r I better turn up my PowerBoost then. LoL. I'll look into it next week; getting ready for the baby shower this weekend. (I'll be ice fishing) thanks Bill! Hopefully things work out and I can get (1) sale on my résumé. P.S. which is the more ideal model? IV V VI? Not sure how many models of .09 exist... Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r P.S. which is the more ideal model? IV V VI? Not sure how many models of .09 exist... The 09-IV is still being made, and can be bought quite inexpensively from Enya Direct. They also make a single ballraced 09-IVBB, and a twin ballraced 'Quicky 09' which is very nice indeed. |
RE: Club Enya
For the airframe it would be going on, I think a bushed engine will suffice. It flew with an AP .061 which seemed a little anemic, but I wasn't flying it, my buddy did.
I will keep my eyes open. I'd like to get a NIB engine if I can help it. |
RE: Club Enya
1 Attachment(s)
Just got my first Enya 4 stroke from a friend which was just cleaning up his workshop, and handed dit over to my;)
Allthough old, ithe internal parts seem to be in very good condition, exept the main bearings which I will replace ofcourse. I have cleaned up a few of the parts with scotch brite in the pics... Should I get some stainless steel bearings, or do the chrome bearings do the job ? A local shop here has some chinese cramic bearings at a quite low price. Worth it, or worthless ? |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: SJN Just got my first Enya 4 stroke from a friend which was just cleaning up his workshop, and handed dit over to my;) Allthough old, ithe internal parts seem to be in very good condition, exept the main bearings which I will replace ofcourse. I have cleaned up a few of the parts with scotch brite in the pics... Should I get some stainless steel bearings, or do the chrome bearings do the job ? A local shop here has some chinese cramic bearings at a quite low price. Worth it, or worthless ? Your main bearings are toast. Your cam bearing in your camshaft drive gear housing (the little bitty one) looks questionable. I suggest you contact a gentleman by the name of Noel Jensen at [email protected]. He can provide you with a complete set of bearings and a Frank Bowman piston ring in one package. If you decide to go the whole bearing route the little bearing in the camshaft drive gear case can be taken out rather easily. On my little .46 4-C I heated up the housing very hot on my gas stove and with an oven mit picked it up and slammed it firmly on my kitchen counter top. It took a few trys and then fell out. Put your replacement bearing in a plastic bag and put it in the freezer for 1/2 hour. Reheat your camshaft drive gear housing and drop the bearing in. A few gentle taps with a piece of wooden dowell and a hammer should seat the bearing. You need to get rid of the Enya Piston ring. I just replaced the ring on my brand new Enya 1.55 with a Frank Bowman ring because the end gap on the Enya ring was excassively large. Your ring gap should be about 0.001". Stainless bearings are nice but not necessary if you run an "after-run" oil through your crankcase prior to long term storage. At this point in time I have little or no confidence in ceramic bearings. Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
I use RC-Bearings' Stainless steel bearings without issue. The whole set for the engine might run $15. +1 on the Bowman ring. Enya #3 glow plug and 5-10% nitro and you're in business. Ridiculously tough engines.
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RE: Club Enya
Thanks.
The cam bearings are fine. Its just that in the picture, the small bearing is covered in crap when i scraped off the old gasket, and it is also scotch brite debris. I should have covered the bearing before working on it....but a little late now, and Ill just have to clean it out realy well. ;) |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: SJN Thanks. The cam bearings are fine. Its just that in the picture, the small bearing is covered in crap when i scraped off the old gasket, and it is also scotch brite debris. I should have covered the bearing before working on it....but a little late now, and Ill just have to clean it out realy well. ;) Those little cam bearings usually fail because of lack of after-run lubrication. They seldom wear out. Bill |
RE: Club Enya
I think Hobbsy had said that Enya 4-strokes rust like crazy in the cam box area. I hadn't run my 60-4C for a few months and so I pulled the cover off and much to my dismay, I got a handful of castor oil. If you use all castor fuel maybe you don't need afterrun...?
I oiled the cam box, rocker cover, and bottom of the crankcase with my storage oil just in case. |
RE: Club Enya
Hi There 1QwkSport2.5r<span style="font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);"> </span><div><span style="font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);">
</span></div><div><span style="font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);">Using straight Castor Oil definately needs after run oil, specially before storing your engine.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);"><font face="tahoma, verdana, arial"><span style="font-size: 11px;">The best to use is Auto transmission fluid. This completely dissipates the castor oil and the nitro leaving your engine nice and free till you use it next.</span></font></span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);"><font face="tahoma, verdana, arial"><span style="font-size: 11px;">If you don't use these steps you run the risk of damaging your engine internally as nitro residue is corrosive and the castor will dry and gunk up your bearings etc making it very difficult to clean out.</span></font></span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);"><font face="tahoma, verdana, arial"><span style="font-size: 11px;"> </span></font></span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);"><font face="tahoma, verdana, arial"><span style="font-size: 11px;">Any other suggestions?</span></font></span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);"><font face="tahoma, verdana, arial"><span style="font-size: 11px;"> </span></font></span></div><div><span style="background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);"><font face="tahoma, verdana, arial"><span style="font-size: 11px;">Fredo </span></font></span></div> |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: PWF63 Hi There 1QwkSport2.5r<span style=''font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''> </span><div><span style=''font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''> </span></div><div><span style=''font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''>Using straight Castor Oil definately needs after run oil, specially before storing your engine.</span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>The best to use is Auto transmission fluid. This completely dissipates the castor oil and the nitro leaving your engine nice and free till you use it next.</span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>If you don't use these steps you run the risk of damaging your engine internally as nitro residue is corrosive and the castor will dry and gunk up your bearings etc making it very difficult to clean out.</span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''> </span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>Any other suggestions?</span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''> </span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>Fredo </span></font></span></div> I've read this advice before and I am with you. I plan on flooding my engines with ATF prior to storeage. I just rebuilt an Enya .46 4-C and the only reason the bearings were toast was due to corrosion. Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
G'day
Two enquiries for Enya experts if I may - 1. I ordered a set of bearings for my old Enya 46 4c from a well known RC bearing supplier but one bearing supplied was completely the wrong size. Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the bearings for a 46 or the part numbers? Is it possible that there are more than one possible bearing for each end of this engine? Different series of the engine? 2. I have a 60CX pumped engine which I bought cheaply. It appears to be in great condition. It has a pump (Perry I think) fitted in the backplate. It starts and runs but it appears to be running very rich in the mid range. Should I adjust the pump or will adjusting the carby low end fix this? How to adjust the pump? In or out for leaner? I am currently enjoying a newish Enya 36 4c Al/Cr. It runs magnificently. Thanks Mike in Oz |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: PWF63 Hi There 1QwkSport2.5r<span style=''font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''> </span><div><span style=''font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''> </span></div><div><span style=''font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''>Using straight Castor Oil definately needs after run oil, specially before storing your engine.</span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>The best to use is Auto transmission fluid. This completely dissipates the castor oil and the nitro leaving your engine nice and free till you use it next.</span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>If you don't use these steps you run the risk of damaging your engine internally as nitro residue is corrosive and the castor will dry and gunk up your bearings etc making it very difficult to clean out.</span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''> </span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>Any other suggestions?</span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''> </span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>Fredo </span></font></span></div> I must confess, I rarely use after run oil. I use no more than 5% nitromethane and run my engines dry at the end of the day. The 4-stroke did get an internal oil bath, but it didn't need it. If you use more nitro, more would need to be done. I use my engines on airboats currently, and I run them every month or so to keep them loose and oiled. When I oiled my 60-4C, I stood it up so the prop was pointing to the ceiling and filled the crankcase with my storage oil blend. It looks as pristine inside as it did from the factory albeit with some castor staining on be outside. |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: mike109 G'day Two enquiries for Enya experts if I may - 1. I ordered a set of bearings for my old Enya 46 4c from a well known RC bearing supplier but one bearing supplied was completely the wrong size. Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the bearings for a 46 or the part numbers? Is it possible that there are more than one possible bearing for each end of this engine? Different series of the engine? 2. I have a 60CX pumped engine which I bought cheaply. It appears to be in great condition. It has a pump (Perry I think) fitted in the backplate. It starts and runs but it appears to be running very rich in the mid range. Should I adjust the pump or will adjusting the carby low end fix this? How to adjust the pump? In or out for leaner? I am currently enjoying a newish Enya 36 4c Al/Cr. It runs magnificently. Thanks Mike in Oz Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r ORIGINAL: PWF63 Hi There 1QwkSport2.5r<span style=''font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''> </span><div><span style=''font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''> </span></div><div><span style=''font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''>Using straight Castor Oil definately needs after run oil, specially before storing your engine.</span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>The best to use is Auto transmission fluid. This completely dissipates the castor oil and the nitro leaving your engine nice and free till you use it next.</span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>If you don't use these steps you run the risk of damaging your engine internally as nitro residue is corrosive and the castor will dry and gunk up your bearings etc making it very difficult to clean out.</span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''> </span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>Any other suggestions?</span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''> </span></font></span></div><div><span style=''background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255);''><font face=''tahoma, verdana, arial''><span style=''font-size: 11px;''>Fredo </span></font></span></div> I must confess, I rarely use after run oil. I use no more than 5% nitromethane and run my engines dry at the end of the day. The 4-stroke did get an internal oil bath, but it didn't need it. If you use more nitro, more would need to be done. I use my engines on airboats currently, and I run them every month or so to keep them loose and oiled. When I oiled my 60-4C, I stood it up so the prop was pointing to the ceiling and filled the crankcase with my storage oil blend. It looks as pristine inside as it did from the factory albeit with some castor staining on be outside. Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
I'll apologize in advance for not reading all 76 pages of this thread.
I need some parts, I have an older Enya .60-II 7032 that is in need of new bearings, new needle valve, and new screws for the cylinder head. I've searched online for enya parts and the only thing that seems to be popping up is a site that says mecoa has bought the remaining enya parts. Then following the link to their site there is no mention of Enya. Any other options besides Ebay? |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: mattnew I'll apologize in advance for not reading all 76 pages of this thread. I need some parts, I have an older Enya .60-II 7032 that is in need of new bearings, new needle valve, and new screws for the cylinder head. I've searched online for enya parts and the only thing that seems to be popping up is a site that says mecoa has bought the remaining enya parts. Then following the link to their site there is no mention of Enya. Any other options besides Ebay? There is a guy that I met via eBay but if you have an eBay phobia I won't bother you with it. If you want his private E-mail address hit me at ([email protected]) This guy will have your parts. Cheers, Bill |
RE: Club Enya
no ebay phobia... I just don't like bidding/waiting/being online at 2 am to see if I've won etc..., I use ebay when there is buy it now prices for items that I like.
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RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: mattnew I'll apologize in advance for not reading all 76 pages of this thread. I need some parts, I have an older Enya .60-II 7032 that is in need of new bearings, new needle valve, and new screws for the cylinder head. I've searched online for enya parts and the only thing that seems to be popping up is a site that says mecoa has bought the remaining enya parts. Then following the link to their site there is no mention of Enya. Any other options besides Ebay? For your information and anyone else wanting Enya parts, contact the Enya factory direct for all parts. Ken would even have parts in stock for a lot of his discontinued engines as well plus all bearings. A great guy to deal with. See site bellow for Email adress Fredo <a href="http://www.enya-engine.com/index_E.htm">ENYA METAL PRODUCTS <br type="_moz" /></a> |
RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: PWF63 ORIGINAL: mattnew I'll apologize in advance for not reading all 76 pages of this thread. I need some parts, I have an older Enya .60-II 7032 that is in need of new bearings, new needle valve, and new screws for the cylinder head. I've searched online for enya parts and the only thing that seems to be popping up is a site that says mecoa has bought the remaining enya parts. Then following the link to their site there is no mention of Enya. Any other options besides Ebay? For your information and anyone else wanting Enya parts, contact the Enya factory direct for all parts. Ken would even have parts in stock for a lot of his discontinued engines as well plus all bearings. A great guy to deal with. See site bellow for Email adress Fredo <a href=''http://www.enya-engine.com/index_E.htm''>ENYA METAL PRODUCTS <br type=''_moz'' /></a> Bill |
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