Thanks so much for the quick answer and great info (which is usual for you)! Now I "R" very happy and well-informed.
Jim

Adding to my Enya collection, yesterday my new Enya 61 CXLS arrived from Japan :). The main differences to the previous 61 CXLRS is that it's now true ABC instead of ringed and now has a finless one piece head instead of the finned two piece button head (which I prefer actually). The combustion chamber is the same but now has a tighter squish clearance so compression is slightly higher than before (at 9.3 from 8.75). Port timings have been slightly reduced by 2 degrees BBDC and crankshaft timing has also been made a little milder too with total time reduced from 195 degrees to 190 but I doubt these minor changes will make any noticeable difference in how it runs. Weight is up by 9 grams (1/3rd ounce) but it's still a 61 engine at under 12 ounces. After it's run in I'll be putting it into my SV-11 and give the ringed version a rest :).

As for the letters after the engine size, the model type is CX, L means rear exhaust, R means ringed and S is for Stunt which explains the change from the previous CXLRS to CXLS. An RC version would drop the S if they ever made one.The bad news at the moment is that they're sold out

Most of the 'regulars' around here know I'm an Enya fan and an airboat guy. While I'm waiting for some spare cash to get parts for my big foam plane, I decided to start using some crap up I have in my garage. So I'm building a freebie airboat. All materials were freely salvaged. My plan was to use crap I already have. Some stuff repurposed. Enya 15-IV powered. Two of them. If two isn't enough power, I'll add a third as a pusher.

I ´ve always liked twins. How close your props will be spinning?
Would be interesting to listen how its sounds.

Will each engine draw from one tank or have there own? I built a pylon racing type of plane completely from scraps and stuff I had kicking around. I think I spent a total of $4 on it. Still flies today.

Props are pretty close. Within 1/4" but not closer than 1/8". I may need to shave the prop diameter down a touch but I'll leave it for now. I still need to pull an old door apart to get the plywood for the bottom and sides.

Steve - each engine will have its own tank. The tank pictured is a Hayes 2oz. I don't trust using one tank for two cylinders/two carbs/two pressure lines.

My thoughts exactly. You got me the itch to build an airboat Tim. Thanks, like I don't already have enough projects. Lol.

Salvage an old door to get plywood for planking the airboat..... :D
That´s kind of way to do things right! Lol.

Haha! I've been missing having anything to build plus I've needed a "beater" boat for awhile. All of my other ones are sheeted with 1/32" ply which doesn't hold up well against an asphalt driveway. Don't ask me how I know.. ;) This one I'm leaving the wood raw. Not finishing any of it. It's a cheapie beater that's easy to build. I'm proud of my throttle linkage.

It's 100 year old maple. Looks beautiful when refinished. The radio box in the center of the boat pictured is made of the same plywood. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps4e7a208f.jpg

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2070364http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2070367http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2070368http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2070369seeing that the pope is pretty lazy here is what I did and it worked out great . Used a kids body board and the pics tell the story. The kids have only just stopped crying over the board , just cause it was a x-mas present doesnt mean they should be a crybaby about it . I mean theres another x-mas in 11 mths time .

Ahh, there kids. They'll get over it. Is the bottom flat? Or did you add some sort of fin? Man, I just threw away two of those when I moved. Had I known, I could of had dueling airboats.

Boogie boards are cheap. I think Wally World has them (Walmart). I've seen a few guys use a body board. Pope - looks like a pretty good setup there. Have Ya ran it yet?

Darn tooten its been run . Me and a flying bud have a couple each the board is stock ( no fin underneath )and cost a $1 from the local dumps recycle shop . Funny thing is the boards with a plastic like coating underneath works better than the ones with the weave type fabric . This one runs great but my other one likes to porpoise like crazy and I have messed with the cog , that's why the rails have holes . I think it needs more weight down low . This one has T.T. 10 while I have a T.T. 54 4stroke in ithe other . Theres a you tube vid somewhere , I will see if I can find it .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tbb8TnZO6gE He had the head cam on so he naturally was looking at his boat . This was the maiden so I was only puttering around and it does go quite a bit quicker . We got the idea from youtube . Theres a bit of info if you look . Cheers the pope

Oh, I will look. Thanks

I'm assembling a Decathon and i installed a NIB enya 90 4-C
I ran 6 tanks through it on the stand starting at 1000rpm
and finished at 6000rpm all at WOT 5% 22%
1st question is, do you think the remainder of the run-in can be done on the plane as long as it stays rich.
2nd question is, do you think i can fly it with no muffler pressure.
The tank sets about 1/2" below carb.
Thanks guys.
Todd

I'd fly it. With or without a muffler. I'll break mine in on a stand, until I could get a reliable idle and somewhat smooth transition. After that it goes in service.keep her smoking, and it will be fine

Hi,
Anyone on here have or know of a crankcase (main body) for an ENYA 80-4c engine, I discovered this day why I am having problems getting it to run right.
Unfortunately this scenario is all "My Bad" and I have no body to blame. :mad:

Thanx for any help !!!
Bob B.

So why is it not running right?

In my haste to make a run stand at the shop I took (2) 5/8" pieces of square steel tube and drilled and tapped mounting holes for the engine.
I then bolted the engine to the tubes and screwed them down to a wood block thinking I had enough clearance between the block
and the bottom of the engine, I didn't, consequently after a few runs I noticed the front bearing carrier was loose and when I went to
tighten the screws I realized the top ones were loose but not the bottom two. Further inspection revealed the interference between the
wooden block and the bottom of the engine case had caused the case to break out. Voilla my problem !!!

Anybody got parts for this engine ENYA 80-4C
Thanx,
Bob Blasi

I would contact an eBay seller that I have purchased parts from. His name is Bobby Brooks at [email protected].

Cheers,

Bill

Now i understand. I do have a new in package 80-4C case, but i will not sell. I have a 80-4C that im going to refresh with new bearings, Bowman ring, valve lapping
and cleaning. The previous owner had drilled the mounting lugs out big time and im going to use the new case on this engine.
I would sell the old case if your interested as long as your not in a big hurry. I can post pics of the engine and give dimensions of the mounting holes if you want.
I could be wrong, but i think the 60 & 80 share the same case.

YesI would appreciate the pixx. if you will. If I may where did you get the new crankcase ??? I'm not too worried about o-size hole since I think that's an easier fix.
Many parts are identical such as heads, valve assembly, front case etc, but not the crankcase because of the different piston bore size.

Also, I presently have a inquiry I am waiting on from B. Brooks
Thanx all,
Bob B.

If you don't find a collector willing to sell you spare parts, look to Ebay. I see Enya engine parts on eBay all the time. I think Shtterman usually has modern stuff for sale but he will get you older stuff direct from Enya in Japan. You can email Ken Enya direct too, they have a lot of parts for the old engines. Enya sells direct and shipping from Japan isn't bad at all.

Here's a article by Clarence Lee that includes the mention of the crankcases. i wish i had measured the bare case bore on my 60 when i refresh it.
http://images.rcuniverse.com/forum/u...38/Xs57552.pdf

Heres the pics i promised. The mounting hole size is .287 inch