RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

I broke in the new SuperTigre .90 using an exaggerated Saito style break in.
SuperTigre G90 of Chinese mfr.
Prop==Bolly 12.5x8
Fuel==Fox 5%/20% castor
16 oz DuBro tank
Plug==Used the provided plug for 55 minutes, refilled the 16OZ tank, the engine would not start, the plug would glow but the engine would not fire a lick. Replaced with new Fox Miracle, back in business.
10 minutes at 4,000 rpm rich, glow power required.
10 minutes at 4,000 with low speed needle leaned just enough to run without glow power.
10 minutes at 5,000
10 minutes at 5,500
10 minutes at 6,000
5 minutes at 6,500 to empty tank
Refilled tank and changed to Fox Miracle plug
5 minutes at 6,500
10 minutes at 7,000
Full throttle to peak high speed needle, would not hold peak for more than 15 seconds and then lost rpm. Richened HS a few clicks
7,500 for 10 minutes
Full throttle to peak HS needle, holds 11,800 rpm
Leaned LS needle for smooth transition, idle 2,110
This engine did not leak a drop of anything anywhere. All ready for conversion to Diesel.
One thing I forgot to mention, the muffler slips on and off of the exhaust stub silky smooth, it feels like they loosened the fit a hair, the joint did not leak. I did not use the exhaust gasket, the phlange did not leak either.

RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

Am I reading that correct that you used 29% castor oil? If so that engine is just about a diesel now.

RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

Woops, thanks for catching that Buzz.

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Hobbsy, do you think the engine not starting could be due to the high oil content? One other thing do you ever take an engines back plate off and flush it out with fuel or methanol? I did flush my 2300 and there were contaminants in it but the 51, and 90 were clean. I believe the contaminants in the 2300 were mostly carbon form the heat treating of the crank but there were some aluminum fragments in there also. I now do this with most of my engines. I also wonder about the oil that the manufacturer places in new engines because it might be just some off the wall oil just to inhibit rust. I usuall add some ATF to a new engine just to make sure it will survive initial start up without any minute damage. I don't think this is critical buy it is only my practice. Any of you know what kind of oil Super Tiger puts in there?

RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

Buzz, occasionally a plugs coil gets contaminated with wear particles from the parts breaking in and the plug simply stops working. This engine had excellent compression before I ran it, that is rare for a SuperTigre, they usually feel pretty mushy before they are broken in. You could definitely see the oil in this one, very thin and perfectly clear, the spraybar was full of it. I do usually flush engines but not this one.

RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

My 90 seems to have very strong compression as well and has only about 5 tanks through it.

RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

Another method of mounting engies for display that I have seen is to use a large brass washer an drill a hole in it and tap and thread in a brass screw. This brass screw can be cut an adjusted to height and a brass nut can be used to hold engine. If brass is hard to get in your area you cold use steel. Most people are like me they don't display their engines but use them for what they were designed, Flying. However, I myself have 2 engine that I don't have on airplanes now that would do for mounting and displaying. If you have a better way to mount or display and engine lets hear it.

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Talking of displaying engines brought to mind something I saw last summer. I was at a fly-in and noticed another man's engine muffler was pollished to a high luster shine. I asked the man how he got that muffler so shiny and he said he used a buffing wheel and buffing compound and it took a while to do it. After looking at it and thinking for a while I asked, how hard is it to keep cleand and shiny. I thought of the castor and oil that comes out of these things and how it stains or carbonizes. He said synthetic fuel and lots of clean-up at the field. I guess if you want to attract attention you have to do something different. It worked as I noticed it right away. With the shot peening or media blasting the Super Tiger engine finish has I don't think this is easily possible but what are some of the more bizzar engine alterations you have seen?

RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

I let a layer of burnt castor build up on some of my first engines but with the use of a spray bottle and pure methanol, I am hoping to keep my engines in pristine shape even with high fuel usage. Now I am in the market for a long bristle brush to aid the methanol by brushing while the methanol is on engine. My daughter has a brush that women us to brush hair dye in hair that I am going to try my next time out to the field. I believe it is the old fuel left on the engine that causes most of the black stuff to build up. Running high rpms seems to cause an engine to look messier also because of the extra heat gererated that bakes the castor on. Once I was running a fairly new Thunder Tiger 46 and it looked almost new till I attaced a tuned pipe and it wasn't long that engine was turning brown but it was inside a cowl and inverted which contributed to the problem of keeping it clean.

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One thing I will be doing to the engines I display that I forgot to mention is using the foam earplugs to seal dust out of the carb intake. I found some old foam earplugs and they make the perfect protection to keep the dirt out. Now I realize not many people out there are going to be a meticulous as I with their engine that cost $69 and that is fine. But it is the little things in life that make the most difference most of the time.

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Have any of you looked at all the old, and I mean very old engines, on ebay? Some of these engines are Super Tigers and others are Brands that I have never heard of. It is just plain intertaining to view these old engine but I have no interest in buying one. It appears that diesel was very popular years ago and I asked myself why? It probally was because the glow engines hadn't been worked out yet. There were twin diesels, radial diesel, and some engines that I don't know what they are. Some of the engine are pretty elaborate with wierd designs. Many of you may be old enought to have used them but not me I am just a young whipper snapper. If you are interested in old engines just check it out late at night when there is nothing on tv and I feel you will be well intertained and who knows you might even decide to purchase on of the little jewels.

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---------------


Being an amateur radio operator (NM2K) and having to display my call sign and name and address by law on my transmitters that utilize six meters, I had a few brass ID tags engraved with the pertinent data. Then I did the same as the other fellow did that you mentioned and used a cloth buffing wheel and some of the oxblood colored wax based polishing compound that came in a small transparent plastic tube along with my original Moto-Tool. The tags came out looking more like brilliantly polished gold than polished brass.

I left the residual polishing compound in the engraved letters and numbers (made them dark), removed the rest and then sprayed the ID tags with light dusting coats of Krylon clear spray paint. No tarnish has developed in over twenty years since I made the tags. They are still very beautiful.


Ed Cregger

RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

I am glad you mentioned that Ed, because I forgot what the man said about spraying on some kind of cleaner. He said the once he sprayed some kind of cleaner on the engine to try and clean it up and it tarnished the aluminum and he had to rebuff it. As you know some of the harsh cleaners will tarnish aluminum so you have to be careful with those. Once I sprayed something on an engine that was pretty bad and it removed the black stuff but took off the nice finish that OS has on their engines. It didn't hurt the aluminum but made it dark. I normally don't take an engine apart unless it is necessary but once I tried the antifreeze method and it seemed to work pretty well for cleaning with not too much discoloration. Many say that a dirty engine will retain heat and I will agree to that but the amount of heat probally isn't that significant unless it is totally gummed over to the point that air flow is interrupte. There is probally more harm done to engines by people disassembling them to clean than the carbon will ever do. Don't get me wrong here I am not saying an engine shouldn't be cleaned but many take their engines apart on every opportunity just to look inside and prove to themselves that they know how. In those cases to me it proves what those people know about the mechanical aspects of engines. I have heard about the Dawn Disolver (what ever cleaner) and how well it works. Now that would be good if it could be brushed on and clean the fins without disassembly.
I am sure if someone wants to display an engine, they want it clean and presentable as possible.

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Hey Hobbsy, I noticed you replaced the muffler screws in the 90 what up with that? The screws and nuts didn't look like first rate quality but I use the originals in mine. I was thinking maybe you have had a failure with these or something. I do locktite all my screws except for the head screws because of loosening problems in the past. I don't locktite the head because of not having a torque driver and this can distress the aluminum if a person isn't careful. One only has to grab ahold of the high speed needle to feel the tremendous vibrations these engines create. Here in MS the availability of metric screws are nonexistant.

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A word of advice for beginners or others. When starting this hobby I was very unfamiliar with the fastner sizes we use (Standard2-56,4-40,6-32,8-32 and metrics 2, 2.5,3,3.5,4 etc.). Living in a town with a population of 2,500 there are two auto motive stores that sell fasteners but nothing this small in standard or metric. I still remember going out in those days looking for a 3.5 mm screw and becoming very frustrated. After some careful consideration I decided to call Mirco Fasteners and got them to send me a catalog. I ordered over $200 worth of various size fasteners. At the time I thought I was making a mistake now I know different now, I should have ordered $400 worth but at the time I just wasn't as familiar with all the different sizes and where they are used. Initally I bout starter sets in all the popular standard sizes and that is what I recomend for all beginners. Buy you starter sets in these sizes 2-56, 4-40, 6-32, 8-32, and a helicopter starter set that is metric. Also it is good to have some spare muffler bolts in 3mm and 3.5mm sizes. I also use the small sheet metal and wood screws in sizes # 00, 0, 1, 2, 3. I ralize that most people, escecially beginners, will crenge at the thought of spending $200 for screws but if you are flying RC you will use them and they are hard to find escecially in rural areas. Even if you can find these sizes in larger towns they are rather expensive. So if you are just starting out go ahead and bite the bullet and get the proper fasteners as it makes repairing and building so much more enjoyable.

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The starter sets come with small organizers but if you are planning big things in the future WalMart sells organizer in sets with totes that are really nice. Personally I use the original small starter set organizers because they are easy to transport and most of the time I take them to the field with me in cloth tote that I stold from my wife. Now just think if you travel miles to the field and a screw vibrates out and you don't have spare screws. Yeah, it probally has happened to you, and you knwo the feeling traveling home just wishing you had spares. The loose screw thing doesn't happen very often if you use Locktite but you never know. If you don't do it now Locktite every screw on one of these planes. Use the Purple,Blue, or Green Locktite. The best for small screws is the Purple but it is hard to find in most stores. However, if you have a computer and a credit card it will arive at you door promptly. I ordered some purple 2 years ago and I still have some left over. I also have a tube of blue and red. If you are one who wants to make sure the Locktite works properly don't forget to use Acetone or other to clean the threads. Personally if I use the blue I just apply it as it seems to have enough strength even on oily threads.

TIP- get you an old prescription bottle from pharmacy and rill a 1/4 inch hole in top and keep toothpicks in it. When you need a toothpick just turn it over and presto a toothpick is in your hand ready for use (for mouth or moder). Now for the reason I mentioned this, when using Locktite a tooth pick will allow you to use just the right amount if woud will insert it into the container or carefully squese out a partial drop onto the pick. This greatly reduces the use of the Locktite. Now they also have the Locktite sticks that is nice.

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Have any of you noticed on RCU is you type fast that the computer or internet not sure which can't keep up and many of the words will come out misspelled? Well let me say that some of my post spelling errors migh be operator related as I am not a good typist or speller. Maybe most of what I post here can be interpreted. If you can't understand what I am trying to say just drop me a private message and I will get back to you.

RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

Don't take the Locktite suggestion lightly as many rc airplanes have crashed because of loose screws. Once I tried fingernail polish because I was unhappy with the price of Locktite but I just don't like it as well. As you may have noticed I don't use Locktite on my head bolts but I wonder if others use the Locktite on these? While we are on this subject just how much torque do you think the headbolts should be tightened? I

RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

ON TIGHTENING ENGINE SCREWS

IMHO

At assembly I snug them up

Then right after each tank of fuel, while still hot, I snug them up again for three times.

They seem to stay tight after that.

I haven't stripped any out yet

RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

Good point W8YE, when fastners are hot the are longer and when they cool the shrink. I have done the same thing as you but after getting use to the thread locker I have quit. One thing a person can do if there is a worry over thread gaulling or stripping is use some anti-seize compound. Automotice fastners really benefit from the antiseize when steel/aluminum are used but the rc motors don't really seem to need it too much. Another thing I have noticed with thread locker is it remains on the screws and is somewhat useful even when loosened and retightened. I observed a buildup of the stull on my muffler bolts because I was loosening and thightening so much.

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Hello Buzzingb.

I'm not sure if this is contributing to your comments or not, but I'd read about using something called Dawn Power Dissolver, available in the Super Market.

From using it, I've found that it does a good job of removing light to medium deposits of baked on caster oil. It didn't do too much for the heavier baked-on goo.

I coated a piece of aluminum and put it in a baggie (so the Power Dissolver wouldn't dry out) and found out that after about 24 hours, the aluminum became discolored and moderately pitted, so I wouldn't recommend leaving it on for more than, say, an hour or so.

Bob

RE: *** CLUB SUPER TIGRE ***
 

For fast easy cleaning I use starter fluid.
Just spray the engine, and the stuff just runs off.
I have a "Parts Brush" I help it along with.

At a buck a can it's fast and easy.

Of course you will want to do this in a closed room with a candle lit.

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But you'll only get to do that trick once Ralph![X(][:@]

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Thanks for mentioning the parts brush as that is what I need to buy. It has been so many years ago that I did a little mechanic work and use those things all the time. I keep noticing grass particles gettin in between the cooling fins on my engines. There is never many but they are hard to remove with just spraying them down with cleaner or methanol so a brush is needed. I can't understand how they get there in the first place unless it's upon landing and they are thrown up in the wind and get blown there.

Ralph I bet the starting fluid does work well and I may give it a try later. For now I have about 3 gallons of pure methanol I am going to use and that will last a while. You never know what some things might work for. I use some kind of bathroom cleaner on my airplanes and I dilute it down with water and add just a bit of soap and it work pretty well. I like the speed aroma it leaves.

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Another good degreaser is Mr. Clean and Ammonia
You mix it 50/50.

Spray it on wait 30 seconds and wipe it off.

It does leave a film that comes right of with Windex.