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  1. #76
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    No, nothing in the plans regarding a cockpit. On my own. I'm not really sure what I'll be able to do with it. The bulkhead is right smack in the middle of it all. And it's structural, so it needs to be. One thing, that the plans make no mention of, is a radio compartment. There is a hatch on top in the center of the wing, but that won't really do it for me. I'll most likely have a remove able hatch on the belly like I did on my rearwin speedster. One thing I know, it's plenty wide enough for a cockpit. Same scale, but exactly twice as wide as the speedster.
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    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  2. #77
    Melchizedek's Avatar
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    Just kinda thinking out loud.

    The fuse walls are pretty thick. What if a dual no seam picture frame fashioned together like a square O in cross section. Made from AC ply or G10 .
    The frame would only consist of scale fuse wall thickness (all open in the middle corners could be rounded to provide more girth) This would give you a torsion box bulk head leaving the people space open.
    Hope this makes sense.

    Do you think this would give you the strength that is needed for the structure ?

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    Kevin
    Taking over the world one plane at a time.

  3. #78
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    The part that concerns my, is not really holding the walls, but it's all that holds the wing to the fuse ( in the front) . I'm still thinking, I may be able to open it up a bunch more if I tie the wing roots ( cabin top) to the center horizontal member( the pieces that are pinned to the plan at this point.) but I do want a cockpit, so I plan to try.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  4. #79
    TomCrump's Avatar
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    Don't lose sight of the fact that this is a Nosen design. It;s not a scale airframe by any means. Just do what you can to doll the cockpit up, and it will look the part.

    I've used the top hatch to mount my radio gear several times. I find it more convenient than using a bottom hatch. I use the headliner to hide it from view, on the cockpit side.

    The hatch also makes securing the wings a breeze, too, as the wing bolts are easily accessible through the hatch opening.

    The hatch is immediately rear of the windshield, in this pic of my Airmaster.
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    Last edited by TomCrump; 07-16-2014 at 07:27 PM.
    Tom C

    Sig Brotherhood # 120

  5. #80
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    Your right tom. I was just looking at it, and the top hatch probably will be where most of the radio gear goes. I've. Ever really " decked " out a cockpit before, and wanted to give it a shot on this one, but well see. That bulkhead just gets right in the way, and I'm not sure how much more I want to take off of it. I don't know. I'm going to move on and think about it as I go. I still have time before I can't do anything about it. I'll probably flip her over and frame the bottom. One thing, I need to make a dural landing gear for it. It has to be tempered aluminium, right? Who sells that? McMaster Carr? They seem to have every thing metal related.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  6. #81
    jwrich's Avatar
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    When I framed up the Mr. M, I just didn't think the extra effort was worth the finished airplane. I decided from the beginning that the best look would be a dark tinted windows or totally black. The Mr. M I bought, the builder had not built any type of cockpit. I think this was about the time he had his health problems. I Installed the windows and wind shield, I painted them black on the inside using the paint for the plastic RC cars. It look ok, as Tom said this is not a scale airplane.
    Rich
    Last edited by jwrich; 07-16-2014 at 08:21 PM.
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  7. #82
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    That's always an option. Thanks for your thoughts guys. I'm going to move on for now and think on it.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  8. #83
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    Rich, do you remember where you located the rudder and elevator servos? In the tail? That's what I'm thinking.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  9. #84
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    It's amazing what one x brace will do. The tail felt so flimsy before. With the x brace, it's solid as a rock. It don't move at all anymore.
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    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  10. #85
    TomCrump's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevegauth30 View Post
    Rich, do you remember where you located the rudder and elevator servos? In the tail? That's what I'm thinking.
    Think in terms of balance. The Mr. M already has an extended nose, to aid in balance. Add servos in the rear may prove counter productive. I suggest that you wait until the last possible minute to make this decision, but I would think that there should be room to hide them in, or under, the cabin area.

    TnT makes custom land gear. http://www.tntlandinggear.com/welcom...ne_catalog.htm They did a great job on my IKON Monocoupe.
    Tom C

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  11. #86
    jwrich's Avatar
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    On the Mr. M that I bought, the elevator servos are in the tail on both sides. The rudder is in the cockpit areas with a pull-pull system. Balance was not a problem. here are a couple pictures of the set up.

    Rich

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    BALSA USA Brotherhood #1
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    Rich

  12. #87
    Lifer's Avatar
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    jwrich,

    Do you have any full photos of your plane to post?
    AMA #77967/CD/LM

  13. #88
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    +1 on the pics. I'm sorry if you already said, but what was under the cowl?
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  14. #89

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    hello out there. i built one, and have two kits. i got rid of the ply,used birch. also the fuse stringers i used 1/4 sq. spruce wood a little stronger.and they don't breake when you pick up the plane. lots of luck with it. george

  15. #90
    jwrich's Avatar
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    I did post some pictures of the Mr. M on the first page, here are a couple more
    Rich
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    BALSA USA Brotherhood #1
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  16. #91
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    Oh, sorry. Thanks. It doesn't look bad at all with the blacked out windscreen. Better with a cockpit, of course, but good ol mr nosen made that a PITA.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  17. #92
    Lifer's Avatar
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    Very nice! Thanks for sharing.
    AMA #77967/CD/LM

  18. #93
    foodstick's Avatar
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    20 some years ago at our old flying field we were on a sod farm right next to a small grass field called Morningstar on the North side of DesMoines...Someone in that little field had a DGA 6 ? I believe ..it was red and gold and GORGEOUS.... I only saw it a few times but I still recall seeing it turning around close to the road one day in the bright sun... What a plane...

  19. #94

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    Quote Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
    Think in terms of balance. The Mr. M already has an extended nose, to aid in balance. Add servos in the rear may prove counter productive. I suggest that you wait until the last possible minute to make this decision, but I would think that there should be room to hide them in, or under, the cabin area.

    TnT makes custom land gear. http://www.tntlandinggear.com/welcom...ne_catalog.htm They did a great job on my IKON Monocoupe.
    +1 on TnT Landing gear. I think I have used them 4 or 5 times now for custom gear and they do good work at a fair price. Fairly quick service too. Go to their website for a form you can complete for custom orders.

    I love the Mulligan but don't care much for the extended nose on the Nosen version. I'd shorten it a bit if at all possible. Maybe not to scale length but as much as possible. Part of the character of these old birds is their short nose!

  20. #95
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    Thanks for the link. Looks like a great source for LG and wing tubes
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  21. #96
    TomCrump's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevegauth30 View Post
    Thanks for the link. Looks like a great source for LG and wing tubes
    I buy both from them. I also get tubes to run my servo extensions, from them
    Tom C

    Sig Brotherhood # 120

  22. #97
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    Cool. I'll check that out too. I've only used paper so far.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  23. #98
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    Well, I planned to get a lot of work done on the mulligan, but of course, life happened and I haven't touched it in a few days. I flew a lot on Thursday and Friday which made me realize that most of my planes still had some kind of issue or another from last season plus all needed some annual maintenance. I was getting tired of flying the same two planes every time I went to the field. So, now the entire fleet is airworthy and I have choices again. Glad that's done. Now I can get back to what I really want to work on. Up next, the bottom half of the fuse.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  24. #99
    acerc's Avatar
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    I do maintenance every January, all craft get a good going over as well as all batteries get replaced.
    Robert
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  25. #100
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    If I had been smart this year that's how it would have went down. Lol. That's usually what I do, but kept putting it off this year. It finally caught up to me. It's ok. It's done, and I feel good about all of them, and can't wait to fly them.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1


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