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Bud Nosen Mr. mulligan

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Bud Nosen Mr. mulligan

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Old 07-11-2014, 09:11 AM
  #51  
FlyerInOKC
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Hey Rich, feel free to post a lot of pictures, we like'em!
Old 07-11-2014, 11:13 AM
  #52  
stevegauth30
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Oh yeah.
Old 07-11-2014, 01:54 PM
  #53  
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In your guys opinion, is two pieces of 1/8 birch ply laminated together with 30 min. as strong as 1/4 birch ply? I've come to the conclusion that I don't mind using the luan every where besides the fire wall and the landing gear area. If I laminate the two 1/8 for the FW, I can proceed on the fuse,. Opinions lease. Proceed? Or wait?
Old 07-11-2014, 01:59 PM
  #54  
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In my opinion if you use wood glue, yes. Any form of hobby epoxy, no.
Old 07-11-2014, 02:08 PM
  #55  
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I would say yes, but you should roughen the mating surfaces first to increase the bonding. I would prefer a 2 hour epoxy over 30 minute however. Once cured, you can drill 1/16th holes diagonally thru the firewall and glue in wooden toothpicks for greatly increased strength.
Old 07-11-2014, 02:48 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by acerc
In my opinion if you use wood glue, yes. Any form of hobby epoxy, no.
When using wood glue to do this, do you thin it a bit for better penetration?
Old 07-11-2014, 03:02 PM
  #57  
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Hmm. Wood glue or epoxy. I've always used epoxy on ply, but I know Robert does his homework and tests his theories. Answered one question, but gave me another. I mostly build with titebond or non foaming gorilla glue so maybe I'll give that a shot. Onward with the fuse, hopefully get some work done this weekend. Thanks guys.
Old 07-11-2014, 03:48 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Cub Flyer Fresno
When using wood glue to do this, do you thin it a bit for better penetration?
Not in this application.
Old 07-11-2014, 03:53 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by stevegauth30
Hmm. Wood glue or epoxy. I've always used epoxy on ply, but I know Robert does his homework and tests his theories. Answered one question, but gave me another. I mostly build with titebond or non foaming gorilla glue so maybe I'll give that a shot. Onward with the fuse, hopefully get some work done this weekend. Thanks guys.
Be careful with the Gorilla near heat such as a fire wall. I read somewhere it does not do well approaching near 150°. I believe it was on there own forum where the temps were talked about.

Last edited by acerc; 07-11-2014 at 03:56 PM.
Old 07-11-2014, 04:00 PM
  #60  
stevegauth30
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Interesting. I'll look in to that. I usually use tite bond 2 anyway. I only use the gorilla when I don't feel like waiting as long. It has a slightly shorter tack time.
Old 07-11-2014, 04:03 PM
  #61  
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Hey Robert What would you think about the double glue method in this application with Tightbond? I have been using the method a fair amount lately. Just asking

I am referring to applying thinned, letting it nearly dry , then normal glue. It does suck a lot of time.

Ken
Old 07-11-2014, 04:35 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by flyingagin
Hey Robert What would you think about the double glue method in this application with Tightbond? I have been using the method a fair amount lately. Just asking

I am referring to applying thinned, letting it nearly dry , then normal glue. It does suck a lot of time.

Ken
I would not worry about it, slap some Titebond on it and laminate. There are other hard points in the construction that will add to the strength of firewall. We over strengthen to much in our builds. Let me explain my current builds engine box. The engine is a 170cc four stroke and the engine box is constructed of 1/8th inch light ply, think about that one for a minute. On my last couple of builds I have really tried to eliminate the over build habits. And so far it is turning out better.
Ok, I'm off my soapbox.
Old 07-11-2014, 08:47 PM
  #63  
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Rich, unable to make Dayton in Sept because the following week our club is setting up for and running MAD patrol 1-5 Oct.

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• Full Scale WW-1 Airshow and re-enactors (sat-sun and two times a day)
• Free onsite camping or reduce hotel costs
Atlantic Ocean Beach within 15 miles
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Old 07-13-2014, 04:42 AM
  #64  
stevegauth30
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Well, it's been a slow start. Not a whole lot of time left to work in the shop after work and the stuff that needs to get done to the house before it sells.also, got some stick time in yesterday. It was very windy, but I'm starting to like windy flying more and more. Not that I like it, just don't mind it as much. I had the field to myself. As for Mr M. , it's starting to take shape. The little bit of time I have got in the shop has been spent re- making all the horribly die smashed parts. For the fire wall, in the end I just ended up driving to my LHS and paying for a piece of 1/4 inch 5 ply birch. Redicously overpriced. But I wanted it now, so I paid it. For now, everything is just clamped together for a mock up. Once I have the other side cabin framed up and everything fits nicely, I'll glue it all together. I must say, the quality of this kit is quite poor. For example, a piece of ply that was supposed to be 1/8x3 5/8x11 was 1/8x3 3/8 x10 3/4 and way out of square to boot. I'm seeing why none were ever finished on either of these sites. No one wanted to take the time to cut there own kit when they just bought one. Certainly not a beginners build. I only hope I can hack it. I'll be making some modifications to the landing gear area for strength. I think I came up with a good way. Well see.
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Old 07-13-2014, 05:45 AM
  #65  
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I know you are smart enough and skilled enough to pull this on off Steve. Take your time, have now deadline. You got a lot of other stuff on your plate (like most of us). You are on the correct path by remaking bad parts. You may end up making a ton of new parts, but you can and then you will have done something it seems no one else has,FINISHED it.

Ken
Old 07-13-2014, 07:03 AM
  #66  
stevegauth30
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thanks Ken. That's the plan anyway.
Old 07-13-2014, 08:03 AM
  #67  
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I've built a few of Bud's kits and all of them were cut/crushed but I managed to use the parts and the kits built fine and flew great. I still have them flying today. I also have recently bought this Mr. Mulligan kit so I'll be following this thread you've got going here. Can't wait. I'll probably make molds for the cowl and wheel pants for this kit and reproduce laser cut parts for it as soon as I have time to get to it. I think it is a great kit and should be saved so others can enjoy building it.
Old 07-13-2014, 12:25 PM
  #68  
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Steve, are you planning to have a working cockpit door ? May want to design it now when you have good access to fuse side.
Old 07-13-2014, 12:31 PM
  #69  
stevegauth30
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You read my mind. Workin on that now my friend. Can't build a plane like this without a door. Just wouldn't be right. I plan to have my stitches and charge jacks in there.
Old 07-13-2014, 12:37 PM
  #70  
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Ok! Everybody quit stroking his ego or his head will explode and then we'll have another unfinished BNMM thread.......
Old 07-13-2014, 12:46 PM
  #71  
stevegauth30
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Hey hey hey! Easy now. None of that around here. Lol.
Old 07-13-2014, 01:42 PM
  #72  
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Ah but I love watching heads explode......................Well as long as he finishes.

Ken
Old 07-13-2014, 08:01 PM
  #73  
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Mike
Ken from Broadway, NC. Is that the mulligan you got from me a couple years ago. Would like to see some pictures when you finish.

Keep in touch, Ken
Old 07-16-2014, 02:37 PM
  #74  
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Haven't had very much time in the shop lately. Been trying to finish up a job. Jobs done, so I'll be able to build for at least a couple days while I wait to start the next one. I did however, get a little done here and there. Every thing so far is built by the plans with the exception of the ply bulk head at the front of the cabin. Plans call for a solid piece, but I chose to cut out the center. It kind of blows out the idea of a scale cockpit though. I think. It's at least better than it was without the cut out. Hopefully I'll be able to make some good progress over the next few days.
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:08 PM
  #75  
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Do the plans/kit make allowances for a scale cockpit ?
Or are you on your own if that is desired.

I can hear your Mulligan crying for a cockpit

Kevin


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