Bud Nosen Mr. mulligan
#176
Here's the link, Steve. You may recognize a couple of the participants. LOL
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237248
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2237248
#180
#185
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Well I wouldn't call that a PITA, I will say I was anxious to be done with it. I'm happy with the way they came out. Out of 99 notches, there's only one that is slightly loose. All the others fit nice and snug for a strong glue joint. I also broke out the power planer and table saw and ripped new stringers out of 1/4 aspen. I wasn't a fan of the way they want you to splice from 1/4 sq. to 1/8 x 1/4 half way back. I'd rather have nice hard stringers running full length. I don't think the weight difference will be anything to think about. I'm back to where I left off before deciding to re cut the formers. Hopefully they line up a little better this go around. They also came out 4 OZ. Lighter. I guess I expected more, but still good. Hopefully this weekend I can get a lot done .
#186
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Jeez, what a difference. I wish I took pics of how bad the originals were. These need a few tweaks, but not bad at all. For the most part they line up fine. I'll remake the. Rey last smallest balsa former as it's a bit short and wouldn't look good to " make it work". The reason I chose to run aspen all the way back and keep it at 1/4 sq. is the tail end feels flimsy to me. I know, the stringers will make it solid, but I feel good about it. Before I go and glue it all up, I still need to figure out a few details. Like the tail wheel mount, the main gear mounting, the sliding engine box, and I'll also run some tubes for the wires another thought I had was to lightly reinforce the area on the side of the tail under the stab to have the option of mounting two servos on each side if I choose to. Meaning, I don't know how it will balance out and I may want to put the elevator servo back there, or the rudder, or both, or none. I already considered this when originally framing and moved the vertical ties apart a bit at the right distance to fit a servo. I'm getting back into this build and it feels oh so good.
#187
Looks good! Keep On Truckin'!
#188
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Nice to see I am not the only one that uses aspen as a replacement for balsa in certain areas. It is a very light hardwood with a perfect amount of flex. My other go to wood is Poplar, which is an excellent replacement for the spruce and other kit hardwoods.
Those stringers look spot on Steve, nice work.
Those stringers look spot on Steve, nice work.
#190
How does aspen compare to Bass weight and strength wise?
I assume it is easy to machine on shop tools. When you say power planer, is that a jointer?
Just idly curious Steve.
Ken
I assume it is easy to machine on shop tools. When you say power planer, is that a jointer?
Just idly curious Steve.
Ken
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Cool, did not know that.
How does aspen compare to Bass weight and strength wise?
I assume it is easy to machine on shop tools. When you say power planer, is that a jointer?
Just idly curious Steve.
Aspen is close enough in weight with the added strength it gives. Poplar is the same far a hardwood. What I like most is these woods are not a brittle wood. They have some flex which to me is better for our applications. I use all my power tools on both, sanders, saws, router, and planers just to name a few. A planer is a machine than shaves a thin layer off. Mine is a Dremel attachment and it planes a set 1/32. Let's say I have a 1"x2"-1/4"thick and need 7/32" thick I can use the planer to shave off the 1/32".
Ken
I assume it is easy to machine on shop tools. When you say power planer, is that a jointer?
Just idly curious Steve.
Aspen is close enough in weight with the added strength it gives. Poplar is the same far a hardwood. What I like most is these woods are not a brittle wood. They have some flex which to me is better for our applications. I use all my power tools on both, sanders, saws, router, and planers just to name a few. A planer is a machine than shaves a thin layer off. Mine is a Dremel attachment and it planes a set 1/32. Let's say I have a 1"x2"-1/4"thick and need 7/32" thick I can use the planer to shave off the 1/32".
Ken
#192
That is good info Robert. I did not know Dremel made that. I was thinking much bigger. I will put that onto my must have list.
Then those woods would nicely resaw with my small band saw or even my little 4" dremel table saw.
Ken
Then those woods would nicely resaw with my small band saw or even my little 4" dremel table saw.
Ken
#194
I can see why Robert. I will search there site for goodies. I have found some goodies for my little (ancient) Dremel table saw just a few days ago and bookmarked into a wish list folder.
I love it for small stuff that just ain't going to happen on my big saw. Great for stick construction.
When some settlements come in I am going to have some fun.
Ken
I love it for small stuff that just ain't going to happen on my big saw. Great for stick construction.
When some settlements come in I am going to have some fun.
Ken
#195
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Nice to see I am not the only one that uses aspen as a replacement for balsa in certain areas. It is a very light hardwood with a perfect amount of flex. My other go to wood is Poplar, which is an excellent replacement for the spruce and other kit hardwoods.
Those stringers look spot on Steve, nice work.
Those stringers look spot on Steve, nice work.
#196
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the howards were nice honest airplanes. i had a DGA,,,,damn good airplane,,,,dga 15p in the late 70s,,,,not a very fast plane compared toe the stagerwings,,,,i always sair it was like wrestlimg a 800 pound gorilla when landing but it did run stright on the roll out.,,,an old timer told me to give it about 1/4 inch of down flap at cruise and i did. it pick up about 5 mph indicated and the tail raised up some. the big prattscould sure burn some gas!!!!!!
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Hey buddy, I don't need to ASSume nutting to make an arss of me self. I got that covered just fine. I'm currently working on the firewall and engine/tank box. I've decided to go 1 inch bigger all around. 1/2 inch each side. I don't want to be limited to tank size or have to rig it up to fit a engine mount. Pics soon.( I know your starting to withdrawal.) lol.
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The engine box has been pretty much sorted out. Not much is permanent yet other than the box itself. Not sure how I want to go about it yet. I'll move on to the landing gear area and the strut mount. I think I'll modify that area a bit . I don't have a lot of trust in the way the strut mount plate is arranged. It's just a 1/4 by 1 inch ply plate , the width of the fuse, mounted with tri angle blocks top and bottom to the back of the former. Being that the wings will rip off in the event of a strut failure, I'll try and come up with something a little stronger. In an area like this, I don't even consider the extra weight. I just want it to stand up to my abuse. Am I over building? Or, are these logical thoughts? Also, not having a clear explanation of what good ol bud was thinking, kind of leaves it to the imagination and past experience. I've always built the heck out of these areas and haven't had any failures.