Avaiojet

I may have mentioned this before, I offer the graphics for the Nosen Mulligan model.

You can see one at my RCU Gallery.

Charles

stevegauth30

Here ya go Kevin. My version of balance buddies. Now, I can hang the airframe from the dowel and add weight where ever needed until the datum line is level. These are at 33% MAC. I figure a good starting point. It's a lot easier than trying to use your finger tips. There not pretty, but they don't need to be.

Melchizedek

That's so simple is genius
I would guess they could be reverse for a low wing ? Or does upside down change things ?

Thanks Steve

Kevin

stevegauth30

Never tried it on a low wing, but I'd think its the same thing. Honestly, its the first time I try them. So far, I like em.

stevegauth30

I'm hoping to have the top hatch finished today. It's taken a long time for a couple of reasons. One is that after getting home from work, I have been having a hard time to get into it. I find myself more often than not on the couch snoozing. Two, is that like the rest of the build from day one, I wasn't happy with the wing to fuse joints, and the cabin top in general so I did some demo work and am getting everything to line up better. Anyway, just about done with that. My fiberglass specialties order is out for delivery today so that excites me a bit. I'll take some pics when the hatch is complete.

TomCrump

Steve

Take a look at the fuselage to wing joints in my pics in post 598. You'll notice a strip of 1/32 ply running the length of the joint. I let the fuselage mounted ply over hang the the wing by approximately 3/16", effectively hiding any inaccuracies in the fuse to wing joint.

The ply is really two layers of 1/64. Only the top layer straddles the joint. The bottom layer is to provide spacing, so that the ply will clear the wing.

After I get the ply fitted well, I glass the strip for strength.

stevegauth30

Pretty much what I did on my Speedster except the top layer was aluminium. I thought it came out ok. Not really scale, but looked ok.the glass parts arrived today. Kind of opens up some more work to be done. Btw, my issues were in the heights at the fuse to wing joints. Didn't really line up good. They do now.

spaceworm

Tailpost is cracked/broken?

stevegauth30

No, i forgot to bend an offset into the music wire. Looked rediculous. So, im looking at three views, and at the cowl, and back at the 3 views, and scaling 3 views, and dangit, the nose is way to long. At least 1 1/4. So the 3 options i can think of are to chop the nose back, find a new engine thats a better length for it, or swap engines with the Speedster. The last would involve alot of cutting of the speedsters engine box as well as finishing the spare cowl i have to suit the new engine. Really dont feel like doing all that. Im open to suggestions.

flyingagin

Tom would be the answer man here (and just about any where). Anything I said would not help much I'm afraid.

I got a rather nice package today. I only paid shipping.
Another super seven (heli version). two 9 channle rx's, 3 futaba s5101's, 2 switch harnesses, plus a ST .40 ringed engine.
The package was here after we got home from a guided tour of Castle air force museum. Put our little pooch in day care for the day.
Still going to oder the gimbal assymbly for the one had with the cracked gimbal.
Then I got 2. And I have a trainer cord that I bought when I got my super seven.



I have a 520 square inch wing that has no body so that wing gets the ST. Now got to build the rest of it.

Ken

stevegauth30

A plane in a box. Nice score Ken. You'll be in the air in no time. I should have mentioned too that when I did the initial balance at 33%, it was quite nose heavy. And I read somewhere that other guys shortened the nose as well. I really don't want to, but it's seeming like the right move.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

That equipment looks a bit familiar!

Enjoy!

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Back in post #94, I think I suggested shortening the nose on the Mulligan. The Nosen kit was designed back in the days when glo power was king and engines were light so the long nose was necessary if the builder had any reasonable expectation of balancing the plane. The short nose is a major part of the character of the Mulligan. You can certainly cheat a bit and not shorten it as much as the full scale while still retaining the desired "look" of the short nosed design.

Have enjoyed following this project by the way ...... Monocoupes and the Mulligan are all time favorite designs of mine. And don't forget the seldom if ever modeled but modern Mullicoupes.

flyingagin

Not a clue why
Ken

stevegauth30

Yeah truck racer, well If I had half a brain rattling around up there I probably would have listened. Lol. I'm starting to wonder if I don't secretly just like to do things twice, and the hard way. Every time I think I'm making forward progress, I take three steps back.

TomCrump

The Trucker is right about the design, Steve. It was created when glow was the way to go.

If you have the inclination, maybe surgery is in order.

stevegauth30

I think is the only option. I ain't adding tail weight, that's for sure. Plus, it would look like poo with a long beak. So, here we go again. Honestly, it doesn't look like it will be too bad. ( famous last words.)

Melchizedek

Rework always sucks on the front end.
But the back end brings satisfaction.
You will be glad you did.

Kevin

stevegauth30

Your right about that Kevin. I hate regrets. And I hate even more having to cut up a painted airplane. It's gotta get done. I'm just about done with the cabin top, then that's up next.

stevegauth30

Well, like Kevin just said, the rework is a PITA, but well worth it in the end. The top hatch that seemed to drag on forever and ever, is finally done, and I'm happy with it. Just for the record, it wasn't just making the hatch. There's nothing to that, and it was made months ago. I had to pull sheeting from the leading and trailing edges of the wings, as well as the sheeting directly behind the hatch, and keep sanding and shaping until every bit was flush. Anyway, it's done. I hadn't planned to use 8 bolts to secure it, but the middle didn't want to sit flat. I used eight 4*40 SHCS and blind nuts. I'm happy with it, and glad I fixed it. On to bigger and better.

TomCrump

Nice work, on the hatch.

Will you glass it, to help it hold it's shape ?

stevegauth30

Will it help enough to make it worth the effort? Not that it takes very much effort to glass it. Lol. I was thinking that it probably wouldn't work out too well to put solartex on it. So, yeah. Probably.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Its all part of being a builder, especially when working with older designs. As they say, been there, done that, got the T shirt.

TomCrump

The hatch on my Vega has a significan curve to it. I glassed it, in place, to insure the right curvature. It worked for me.

It won't be solid, like a cowl, but it should be firm enough to keep your paint from cracking.

stevegauth30

Thanks Tom. I have to glass it no matter what. Solartex will peel of in a hurry being flimsy. Hey Truckracer, when do I get my shirt? Lol.