acerc

[Lots more to do to the starboard panel but feel real good with progress thus far.]

And I can see why, real nice work Kevin!

Melchizedek

Thank you Robert

Leroy Gardner

Seams as though this build is coming along a bit quicker than the start of your spacewalker, do you like building the Gilmore better.

Leroy

Melchizedek

It does seem to be coming along a little faster. Hard to answer. The Gilmore for me has the Cool factor like a sports car. The SW is sitting in view of my work area and my heart says " old friend I will be back for you". Suffice it to say it's a different build, passion wise.
The other thing about the pace of this build. This is the second time around the block for me on a big build. I feel much more confident on what I want to do and how to go about it. Also, there are some challenges approaching that I'm looking forward to getting at.

Kevin

Melchizedek

The servo wire channel was run, rear shear webs and spars installed, outboard corner braces at wing joint installed, trailing edge and butt ledge at trailing edge in place.

I used rocket tube for the servo wire channel (hat tip Viny). I was going to fabricate termination boxes at the D-sub connectors out of balsa. Then one of my mixing cubs (Dixie) caught my attention.
It looked to be about the right size. So I forced it over the D-sub holder and it fit like a glove. It aint pretty but it will do. Light and cheep too!

In case you don't remember, this is what it is covering




At this point I have preliminarily decided to increase the size of the aileron by one inch. The green tape is one inch. You can see where the print says it should be and where I said it might be.
I am also pondering a ball and socket aileron at the hinge line instead of just a chamfer butted against a flat. This is preliminary also. After sleeping on it a night or two it should become clear to me.



Began working up the wing tips. I missed a detail on the prints. The rear spar was supposed to shoot out to the wing tip as a support. Well I nipped them guys off last chapter.



So I took some 1/8 ac ply and scabbed the wing tip ribs back to the spar.



Also the prints called for 1/8 balsa as a center plate. I changed that to 1/16 ac ply so as to have a hard outer edge for over sanding repellant and hanger rash



Kevin

acerc

Kevin, before you cover the wing do a resistance test on those D-subs. Most resins are acidic and don't want any issue later so just make sure they are the same as prior to covering. Elsewise fantastic work, those magnets give me chills, what a great way to build. Oh, and if you don't mind, those weights on the top/ I just pulled a couple out of an ARF and was wondering where they come from.

Melchizedek

Robert, I don't think any resin has gotten on the D-subs but I will test anyway. Great Idea. Be sure, don't assume. Thanks

The weights are lead ingots. I got them on eBay over a year ago. I think currently lead ingots go in the vicinity of about $1.50 a pound.
A quick search on eBay will bring up several options.

Kevin

acerc

I use some dielectric silicon around the d-sub pins, keeps from degradation and aids in the prevention of flex breakage.
I just found some ingets identical to them. http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/do-it-m...910000002.aspx

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Check your local black powder gun store they usually have an inexpensive ingot mold and then find a supply of old wheel weights to melt. I use to shoot a lot of black powder in my younger days and never bought precast balls or lead.

VincentJ

Looking great Kevin, I've always admired people that could read two novels at one time, same goes for builders that have two builds started!

It's getting harder and harder to find lead wheel weights as they are no longer legal to sell, they are now made out of steel.

Melchizedek

Another great tip Robert, it will also aid in disengagement when taking wing panel off.

Kevin.

Melchizedek

Thank you Vincent, I'm not convinced yet if that's a good thing (two builds) Time will tell.

Kevin

WacoNut

Hi Kevin just found your build and subscribed.
How do you like the Hostetler plans? I just bought a plan for the Hostetler Stinson Reliant SR-10 and they are very well drawn. I also considered blowing them up to 33% but the fuselage would be too large to get out of my basement.

Will be watching with interest.
Anthony

Melchizedek

Welcome Anthony

This is my first plans build so I don't really have others to compare them to. They are hand drawn so there is some variance to them . At first this caught me. Now knowing to check for that, it hasn't been a problem. So far so good .

I am planning on a split fuse. You might consider that if you still want to go large. This still has to be engineered yet on the Red Lion.
I did a split fuse on my 1/3 Space Walker and was very pleased with the result. Check it out if interested.
This will take you to page 8 were the split fuse is being built. --> LINKY

So glad to have you along

Kevin

Melchizedek

Glued the wing tip to the end of the wing. I so wanted to shape it before gluing it on but It continually changes shape around it's perimeter. From the front leading edge to a slimming down leading edge at the tip to a tapper to the trailing edge. I could not figure a way to get that right with it not being attached to the wing. Even after this is going to be a challenge.


It still needs 3 tip ribs both top and bottom.




I was looking at the scale model of the Red Lion. The horizontal and vertical stabilizer have an air foil shape to them.
You can see it on the box photo and it is on the plastic parts but to small for a good photo.



On the Hostetler plans both surfaces are just planks.
At 1/4 or 1/3 scale this just don't seem right.



Pete or Tim, where your tail feathers flat ?

Also question ? can this be fudged ? Can a slight symmetrical airfoil be employed without adversely effecting flight ?

Any input would be most welcome.

Kevin

WacoNut

Hi Kevin,
The airfoil shape on the tail feathers should not adversely affect the flight. If you want to add the airfoil shape I would just glue sub ribs to the top and bottom and sand the profile you want.
You will probably have to increase the thickness of the Stab T/E and the Elev. L/E to get the profile to look right.

The Hostetler Stinson does have airfoil shaped tail surfaces on the drawings.
Later!!
Anthony

TCampbell

My version was designed with a slight airfoil. For ease of building the horizontal and vertical ribs were constant thickness so they would lay flat on the building board. Thin cap strips were then added and the airfoil shape sanded in. As you can guess, this resulted in a less than perfect shape across the whole tail plane, but gave it the right look. If this caused any bad effects, they are not noticeable.

Melchizedek

Thank you Anthony. I will go with an airfoil tail feathers.
Makes me wonder why he went flat on the Red Lion ?

Thank you Tim. Good to know someone (the designer) thought it was worth while.

I was doing some reading last night on airfoil tail feathers. More than a couple opinions
that a stronger lighter tailplane can be had with an built up airfoil.
This morning I took a close look at the horizontal stabilizer on my glider.
It has an airfoil. It is very strong and light. I will try to barrow from the construction techniques that were used on my glider tail feathers.
Hopefully I can get back the added weight of the split fuse by adding lightness to the tail feathers.
More to come on this. Lots to ponder

Kevin

VincentJ

Kevin, I think airfoiling the tail is a benefit, keep the tail as light as you can...

Melchizedek

Ten Four, Vincent

My goal is to make it, as you said. As light as I can.
I'm really starting to like the idea. Still pondering how to get there.
When the wheels are turning the time goes by fast .

Kevin

VincentJ

Oh, that's what that noise was!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

You must have heard that awful squeak too!

Melchizedek

I have been told when I ponder , I sound like a panzer tank with rusty tracks.
My wife makes me wear a motor cycle helmet to muffler the sound.
When she is out , I take it off. LOL

Kevin

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Kevin,

Looking good so far. Regarding the shaping of the wingtip into the leading edge yes that was very difficult for me to shape. You have several contours merging at this area and without the tip area being covered with balsa you have to use your imagination. My right tip did not come out as good as the left. There is a subtle flat area that was not apparent until painted. In a stall my right wing dips first but not bad and no way am I going to try and fix it.

The tail feathers are flat even on the full size aircraft so don't try and reinvent the wheel there. I will try and find my disk of the photo shoot of the 121 and 44 aircraft at the Louisiana museum for you.

Pete

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Kevin,

Looking good so far. Regarding the shaping of the wingtip into the leading edge yes that was very difficult for me to shape. You have several contours merging at this area and without the tip area being covered with balsa you have to use your imagination. My right tip did not come out as good as the left. There is a subtle flat area that was not apparent until painted. In a stall my right wing dips first but not bad and no way am I going to try and fix it.

The tail feathers are flat even on the full size aircraft so don't try and reinvent the wheel there. I will try and find my disk of the photo shoot of the 121 and 44 aircraft at the Louisiana museum for you.

Here are two I pulled off my build thread. If there is an airfoil it's not much.

Pete