Gilmore Red Lion Build
02-25-2015, 02:33 PM
#201
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Your very welcome.
Life is best lived when shared.
All you guys are builders and can appreciate this sort of thing.
I can't think of a better bunch of guys to share this experience with.
My Pleasure.
Kevin
02-25-2015, 02:38 PM
#202
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02-25-2015, 02:43 PM
#203
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Anthony,
I am afraid this is the new norm.
I am also afraid there a some in Government that would like to keep it that way.
Kevin
I am afraid this is the new norm.
I am also afraid there a some in Government that would like to keep it that way.
Kevin
Last edited by Melchizedek; 02-25-2015 at 03:12 PM. Reason: wrong emoticon
02-25-2015, 04:28 PM
#204
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Today was spent working up the cauls.
It started fine but it turned out I had to hustle all day. Why ? Cause the veneer showed up today.
There will be about 28 layups for all the panels. 2 layups a day that's 14 days. So the time to start was yesterday.
So as not to loose any time it was imperative that the cauls were completed today so they could dry overnight and be ready tomorrow.
In the last post you saw the plates. The studs were pre cut 1 size. The biggest size. All other studs had to be fitted.
The front rake was put on all the blanks. The rear had to be custom fit to where on the caul they were placed.
So what I did was do a symmetrical layout from the center out on all 4 plates. That meant from the center out I could cut 4 left and rights at a time for the two cauls. This speed work up .
First a little info on vacuum bagging if you are not aware. When atmosphere is drawn out of the bag. Atmospheric pressure presses from all directions. Think of a submarine as it goes deeper. The pressure is from all around. So when laying up shapes in a vacuum bag. Your form has to be buttressed to withstand pressure from all around. When pressing up forms I pull all the vacuum the pump will allow. This is literally crushing pressure.
I got sloppy on one form a few years ago. It was a very big form and I relied on a to large of section of unsupported 3/4 particle board to hold.
The vacuum bags we use are an industrial vinyl. Very heavy gauge. When the particle board gave way it imploded. Boom!!!!!!
Like a submarine that went to deep. This was an underwear check moment. The bag was obliterated were the form collapsed.
In the first picture the back of the studs are being trimmed for the bottom of the caul. If you look closely at the angle of the stud the cut is at 90 degrees. That angle is not necessary to cut on the inside studs. It just has to contact the bottom. The 2 outside end studs will be cut on angle to allow a glue surface. The outside studs will have force on them to push in.
The form is made from 3/4 fir. All the studs had a curve to them like 3/4 fur likes to do.
I swapped out the end studs for particle board cause it was straight. Squaring up this caul will be much easier with straight ends.
With frame up complete a 1/2 sheet of particle board is glued and nailed to the bottom. This squares up the teacup and adds a support surface for pressure.
They are now ready for skinning. They will get 3 layers of 1/4 inch bender board laminated together to make the conical plane.
The first sheet just gets nailed on. Glue is added to the end studs only. The middle studs are self enclosed and can go nowhere.The sheet is nailed on down every stud and along its perimeter.
The next 2 sheets are a wrestling match. First a layer of glue is rolled on top the first sheet. Then the second sheet is placed on top and nailed down up and down every stud and the perimeter. The wrestling comes from the need to push with one hand and nail with the other to assure positive contact with the surface. Failure to do this will create undulations that have to be cleaned down later. Tons of work. Better to wrestle it down now instead of paying later. There is know way to end up with no ripples. The goal is to end up with controlled consistent ripples. This is easy to clean down.
When pushing down at every nail glue is pushed between the studs. As long as you have positive contact at every stud you have a consistent little rise between the studs. After the third layer is down and you run your hand over the surface.
It will have a consistent che che che che che. Those are high spots between studs. They can be cleaned down to a very consistent surface.
End of the day and tuckered but the two cauls are ready for clean up in the morning and then bag up later in the day.
The reason we laminate the top of the caul is to create a hard shell between studs. Tomorrow they will be dry and hard and can be cleaned up smooth.
Lights out.
Kevin
It started fine but it turned out I had to hustle all day. Why ? Cause the veneer showed up today.
There will be about 28 layups for all the panels. 2 layups a day that's 14 days. So the time to start was yesterday.
So as not to loose any time it was imperative that the cauls were completed today so they could dry overnight and be ready tomorrow.
In the last post you saw the plates. The studs were pre cut 1 size. The biggest size. All other studs had to be fitted.
The front rake was put on all the blanks. The rear had to be custom fit to where on the caul they were placed.
So what I did was do a symmetrical layout from the center out on all 4 plates. That meant from the center out I could cut 4 left and rights at a time for the two cauls. This speed work up .
First a little info on vacuum bagging if you are not aware. When atmosphere is drawn out of the bag. Atmospheric pressure presses from all directions. Think of a submarine as it goes deeper. The pressure is from all around. So when laying up shapes in a vacuum bag. Your form has to be buttressed to withstand pressure from all around. When pressing up forms I pull all the vacuum the pump will allow. This is literally crushing pressure.
I got sloppy on one form a few years ago. It was a very big form and I relied on a to large of section of unsupported 3/4 particle board to hold.
The vacuum bags we use are an industrial vinyl. Very heavy gauge. When the particle board gave way it imploded. Boom!!!!!!
Like a submarine that went to deep. This was an underwear check moment. The bag was obliterated were the form collapsed.
In the first picture the back of the studs are being trimmed for the bottom of the caul. If you look closely at the angle of the stud the cut is at 90 degrees. That angle is not necessary to cut on the inside studs. It just has to contact the bottom. The 2 outside end studs will be cut on angle to allow a glue surface. The outside studs will have force on them to push in.
The form is made from 3/4 fir. All the studs had a curve to them like 3/4 fur likes to do.
I swapped out the end studs for particle board cause it was straight. Squaring up this caul will be much easier with straight ends.
With frame up complete a 1/2 sheet of particle board is glued and nailed to the bottom. This squares up the teacup and adds a support surface for pressure.
They are now ready for skinning. They will get 3 layers of 1/4 inch bender board laminated together to make the conical plane.
The first sheet just gets nailed on. Glue is added to the end studs only. The middle studs are self enclosed and can go nowhere.The sheet is nailed on down every stud and along its perimeter.
The next 2 sheets are a wrestling match. First a layer of glue is rolled on top the first sheet. Then the second sheet is placed on top and nailed down up and down every stud and the perimeter. The wrestling comes from the need to push with one hand and nail with the other to assure positive contact with the surface. Failure to do this will create undulations that have to be cleaned down later. Tons of work. Better to wrestle it down now instead of paying later. There is know way to end up with no ripples. The goal is to end up with controlled consistent ripples. This is easy to clean down.
When pushing down at every nail glue is pushed between the studs. As long as you have positive contact at every stud you have a consistent little rise between the studs. After the third layer is down and you run your hand over the surface.
It will have a consistent che che che che che. Those are high spots between studs. They can be cleaned down to a very consistent surface.
End of the day and tuckered but the two cauls are ready for clean up in the morning and then bag up later in the day.
The reason we laminate the top of the caul is to create a hard shell between studs. Tomorrow they will be dry and hard and can be cleaned up smooth.
Lights out.
Kevin
Last edited by Melchizedek; 02-26-2015 at 01:54 PM.
02-27-2015, 03:18 PM
#209
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There most likely won't be any updates on the Red Lion this week. Currently working the David shift. You know, all the time .
Sorry Dave, couldn't pass that one up
. I will be at work Saturday and part of Sunday.
There are updates on the table though.
Both cauls were cleaned up to a smooth ripple free plane.
The veneer arrived. The species is Fumed Larch.
Fuming is a process were the wood is exposed to Ammonia Gas. The Ammonia cause the wood to darken all the way through it.
I don't think it is anything to right home about but somebody liked it.
It came in 144 inch by 36 inch 3 ply. It is very stable and flexible. About 1/16 inch thick.
One of the problems with this much surface in one spot is matching the veneer to all look the same.
Veneer is cut from a log in paper thin slices. When it is all cut up that log becomes a flitch.
That flitch will make a ton of panels but is not endless. Each flitch is unique in appearance.
There are 7 veneer sheets for the infeald. There was a lot of 3 sheets (same flitch) and 2 lots of 2 sheets.
So first point of order is to lay all the veneer out and decide where it is going to go for best looks.
The other thing that has to be considered is field joints and glue up joints.
The big section has five 9 ft. sections. It wasn't practical to make a 9 foot caul. It would weigh a ton and probably not fit in the bag.
So what we did is make the caul 6 ft.+ . A 9 ft. wall section will consist of a 6 ft glued to a 3 ft. Then field joint then another 6 and 3. and so on.
When a panel is fitted some material is lost. So a 9 ft panel will have a field joint at both ends and a glue joint in it also. The leafs of veneer are on average 6 inches wide. It would look terrible to have a 2 inch leaf at a joint and 6 inch leaf every where else. There is a great deal of planning to create the appearance of sameness all the way around the horn. Appearance is the key, cause some material will be lost with all the joining.
So the veneer was laid out around the die wall and mixed and matched for best appearance.
The veneer will need to be pied. How much piing is a judgment. You don't want the pie to be so acute that half you leaf is consumed.
And you don't want to pie every leaf if it is not necessary. I decided on every 3 leafs it would be pied. This amounted to a rake of 0 to 1/2 inch at every third leaf.
Once pied they were edge glued back together to make up a panel.
Once the first 2 panels were put back together the vacuum bags were set up and the layup began.
First the face tape is removed then it is laid face down on the caul. Then the back tape is removed.
Then all the core pieces are laid on the caul then unstacked for glue up. This keeps all the cores in there proper order.
The panels are 1 inch large on there top and bottom. The face veneer is just 1/4 inch longer than finished dimension with filler veneer at the ends and the core goes over about an inch. As the cores are spread with glue and placed on the caul they get pined down in the cut off margin to keep them from sliding around while trying to get them in the bag.
One pump runs both bags. We can actually run 3 bags if needed. The pump is attached to a manifold with 3 valves. The bags are feed from the manifold. With using the valves when transferring back and forth between bags. The bag that is under full vacuum is used as a resivore to quickly evacuate the second bag.
So as to not be lifting a heavy caul in and out of the bag. A staging area was set up between them . The platform between the 2 bags is 1/2 taller than the plenum of either bag. That surface is waxed and the bottoms of the cauls are waxed. One person can pull a caul out reload it and push it back in the bag. Then unload the other bag, reload and push it back in the bag.
A lot of manipulation of the bag is necessary when doing a shape. The bag has to be supported (laying on something). Only slight bridging of the bag is possible. Like at inside corners some bridging is fine. To much and bag pops. Also manipulation over the shape. The bag can get under what you are pressing or can fold in such a way that part of your piece is not under pressure.
When pressing flat panels no manipulation is necessary.
And this is what a panel looks like when it comes out of the bag.
It is just leaning against the frame. It needs to be sized, fitted and attached to frame.
Lights out
Kevin
Sorry Dave, couldn't pass that one up
. I will be at work Saturday and part of Sunday. There are updates on the table though.
Both cauls were cleaned up to a smooth ripple free plane.
The veneer arrived. The species is Fumed Larch.
Fuming is a process were the wood is exposed to Ammonia Gas. The Ammonia cause the wood to darken all the way through it.
I don't think it is anything to right home about but somebody liked it.
It came in 144 inch by 36 inch 3 ply. It is very stable and flexible. About 1/16 inch thick.
One of the problems with this much surface in one spot is matching the veneer to all look the same.
Veneer is cut from a log in paper thin slices. When it is all cut up that log becomes a flitch.
That flitch will make a ton of panels but is not endless. Each flitch is unique in appearance.
There are 7 veneer sheets for the infeald. There was a lot of 3 sheets (same flitch) and 2 lots of 2 sheets.
So first point of order is to lay all the veneer out and decide where it is going to go for best looks.
The other thing that has to be considered is field joints and glue up joints.
The big section has five 9 ft. sections. It wasn't practical to make a 9 foot caul. It would weigh a ton and probably not fit in the bag.
So what we did is make the caul 6 ft.+ . A 9 ft. wall section will consist of a 6 ft glued to a 3 ft. Then field joint then another 6 and 3. and so on.
When a panel is fitted some material is lost. So a 9 ft panel will have a field joint at both ends and a glue joint in it also. The leafs of veneer are on average 6 inches wide. It would look terrible to have a 2 inch leaf at a joint and 6 inch leaf every where else. There is a great deal of planning to create the appearance of sameness all the way around the horn. Appearance is the key, cause some material will be lost with all the joining.
So the veneer was laid out around the die wall and mixed and matched for best appearance.
The veneer will need to be pied. How much piing is a judgment. You don't want the pie to be so acute that half you leaf is consumed.
And you don't want to pie every leaf if it is not necessary. I decided on every 3 leafs it would be pied. This amounted to a rake of 0 to 1/2 inch at every third leaf.
Once pied they were edge glued back together to make up a panel.
Once the first 2 panels were put back together the vacuum bags were set up and the layup began.
First the face tape is removed then it is laid face down on the caul. Then the back tape is removed.
Then all the core pieces are laid on the caul then unstacked for glue up. This keeps all the cores in there proper order.
The panels are 1 inch large on there top and bottom. The face veneer is just 1/4 inch longer than finished dimension with filler veneer at the ends and the core goes over about an inch. As the cores are spread with glue and placed on the caul they get pined down in the cut off margin to keep them from sliding around while trying to get them in the bag.
One pump runs both bags. We can actually run 3 bags if needed. The pump is attached to a manifold with 3 valves. The bags are feed from the manifold. With using the valves when transferring back and forth between bags. The bag that is under full vacuum is used as a resivore to quickly evacuate the second bag.
So as to not be lifting a heavy caul in and out of the bag. A staging area was set up between them . The platform between the 2 bags is 1/2 taller than the plenum of either bag. That surface is waxed and the bottoms of the cauls are waxed. One person can pull a caul out reload it and push it back in the bag. Then unload the other bag, reload and push it back in the bag.
A lot of manipulation of the bag is necessary when doing a shape. The bag has to be supported (laying on something). Only slight bridging of the bag is possible. Like at inside corners some bridging is fine. To much and bag pops. Also manipulation over the shape. The bag can get under what you are pressing or can fold in such a way that part of your piece is not under pressure.
When pressing flat panels no manipulation is necessary.
And this is what a panel looks like when it comes out of the bag.
It is just leaning against the frame. It needs to be sized, fitted and attached to frame.
Lights out
Kevin
Last edited by Melchizedek; 02-27-2015 at 03:22 PM.
03-04-2015, 04:42 PM
#210
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Wish this was a RL update. Haven't had any time to work on the RL. I have been putting in 11 and 12 hr days.
So it's a table update.
All 75 feet of the veneer has been pied and nit back together.
17 of the 19 teacup panels have been pressed up. 2 are waiting for material to arrive.
3 of the 9 ft panels have been fit and attatched to the base frame.
A field joint should look seamless.
This is the left and right field joint of the very center section of the big circle.
The small section has had the face applied.
If you notice the ends of the right and left panel run long. They will get mitered to a return panel.
When raping an inside radius. The tighter the panel gets sucked to the frame the shorter it gets.
Even In a dry fit up. Getting it back dead on upon glue up is risky. Better to attach panel then cut to length then miter. The veneer is about a heavy 64th. thick so not much grace.
Below is the plane view of the table.
The top is to be white glass. Glass flipper doors are to ring the table.
On the infield edge of the door a 1/2 inch wide strip of stainless steel is to ring the table.
A 1 1/2 inch wide piece of stainless steel separate's each flipper door.
The sub top for the glass will be white panted MDF. The hardwood edge infield and outfield will be painted white.
The troughs that ring the table under the flipper doors will contain electrical and data hook ups. The interior of the through will be painted to match the stainless steel.
Below is an iso of the 4 table ends. The veneer returns on the ends with a stainless steel accent.
Kevin
So it's a table update.
All 75 feet of the veneer has been pied and nit back together.
17 of the 19 teacup panels have been pressed up. 2 are waiting for material to arrive.
3 of the 9 ft panels have been fit and attatched to the base frame.
A field joint should look seamless.
This is the left and right field joint of the very center section of the big circle.
The small section has had the face applied.
If you notice the ends of the right and left panel run long. They will get mitered to a return panel.
When raping an inside radius. The tighter the panel gets sucked to the frame the shorter it gets.
Even In a dry fit up. Getting it back dead on upon glue up is risky. Better to attach panel then cut to length then miter. The veneer is about a heavy 64th. thick so not much grace.
Below is the plane view of the table.
The top is to be white glass. Glass flipper doors are to ring the table.
On the infield edge of the door a 1/2 inch wide strip of stainless steel is to ring the table.
A 1 1/2 inch wide piece of stainless steel separate's each flipper door.
The sub top for the glass will be white panted MDF. The hardwood edge infield and outfield will be painted white.
The troughs that ring the table under the flipper doors will contain electrical and data hook ups. The interior of the through will be painted to match the stainless steel.
Below is an iso of the 4 table ends. The veneer returns on the ends with a stainless steel accent.
Kevin
03-05-2015, 04:45 PM
#213
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Mike,
With as massive as this table is, after being around it for a few weeks it went from massive to big to just "a lot of."
What ever is done, there is "a lot of", and "a lot of" etc.......
Spent about 2 hours today taking account and cutting up the veneer for the outside panels. There are 14 of them.
14 face veneers, 14 backing veneers. Turns out at first account there was only enough face veneer (Larch) to get 12 of the 14.
14 sheets were ordered, 7 for the inside and 7 for the outside. With the inside parsed out for pie cuts and field joints and glue joints and maintaining a running flitch line. More than 7 were consumed.
So a second accounting was done. The big circle has 11 panels. Two panels out of a sheet with about a 9 inch section left over. This left 1/2 a sheet for the small circle.
The three small circle panels are a little smaller than the 11. So increased the center of the 3 to the size of the 11. That left 6 left overs. Knitting them back together will make panel 13.
Then gathered up all my trimmings from the infield veneer, was just enough to get panel 14. Woooo.
Built the cawl for the outer panels and began pressing up the 14.
Work has stalled on wrapping the inside of the big circle. We are waiting on core material to press up the last 2 panels. Supplier out, and manufacturer has been having snow days.
Maybe get it next week if lucky. Plan B may be necessary. Plan B has not been formed yet.
Here is an orphan face, its brother is on the other leg. The very end panels have been made up but cant be attached until this one and its brother is.
So attention was focused on the little circle.
First a little about skinning a frame with compound curve panels.
When the panels are laid up they are made 2 inches taller than finished. This accounts for the angle at top and bottom. It also leaves a place to tack the material down to the caul to keep it from sliding around and out of place. Glue is slippery before it starts to set. When the panel is fitted to the frame it is left tall. 1 inch +- top and bottom.
There are only 2 planes of concern during clamp up. First plane is the field joint of the panel it is being butted to. The other plane is the other end field joint. When cutting these if the panel is tilted up a tad or down a tad, no big deal. This makes the joint the primary focus not panel elevation at other end. The joint being abutted to has to be tight. We can miss a smidge on the next joint cause the next panel will take that up. When clamping a inside compound curve to a frame. When it is drawn tight it gets shorter. Imagine trying to get all 4 planes of a compound curve dead nuts a bunch of times.
That was the long way around the barn to bring you to the next step. Since the table base is upside down. The bottom of the panel gets trimmed first.
The way it was done requires a level straight frame before the frame is skinned. All the frames were leveled and plumbed with a laser.
Since the little section is on wheels. The bottom plate is much higher off the ground to accommodate the wheels.
So I made mobile platform The height of the finished face panel. Then set up a router on a ski with the cutter set a hair off the platform.
Drew a line around the inside and jig sawed off most of the off fall.
Then routed off all of the core leaving the skin at the platform level.
Did not rout all the way through so as not to snag and tear the veneer.
This left the skin standing tall. Then a laminate trimmer was used to size that down
Since the face of the wall is 15 degrees this left a high edge of the face. This was desirable so that it could be block sanded to the machined plane.
Block sand down the ridge on plane until pencil is gone and we have a perfect plane.
Kevin
With as massive as this table is, after being around it for a few weeks it went from massive to big to just "a lot of."
What ever is done, there is "a lot of", and "a lot of" etc.......
Spent about 2 hours today taking account and cutting up the veneer for the outside panels. There are 14 of them.
14 face veneers, 14 backing veneers. Turns out at first account there was only enough face veneer (Larch) to get 12 of the 14.
14 sheets were ordered, 7 for the inside and 7 for the outside. With the inside parsed out for pie cuts and field joints and glue joints and maintaining a running flitch line. More than 7 were consumed.
So a second accounting was done. The big circle has 11 panels. Two panels out of a sheet with about a 9 inch section left over. This left 1/2 a sheet for the small circle.
The three small circle panels are a little smaller than the 11. So increased the center of the 3 to the size of the 11. That left 6 left overs. Knitting them back together will make panel 13.
Then gathered up all my trimmings from the infield veneer, was just enough to get panel 14. Woooo.
Built the cawl for the outer panels and began pressing up the 14.
Work has stalled on wrapping the inside of the big circle. We are waiting on core material to press up the last 2 panels. Supplier out, and manufacturer has been having snow days.
Maybe get it next week if lucky. Plan B may be necessary. Plan B has not been formed yet.
Here is an orphan face, its brother is on the other leg. The very end panels have been made up but cant be attached until this one and its brother is.
So attention was focused on the little circle.
First a little about skinning a frame with compound curve panels.
When the panels are laid up they are made 2 inches taller than finished. This accounts for the angle at top and bottom. It also leaves a place to tack the material down to the caul to keep it from sliding around and out of place. Glue is slippery before it starts to set. When the panel is fitted to the frame it is left tall. 1 inch +- top and bottom.
There are only 2 planes of concern during clamp up. First plane is the field joint of the panel it is being butted to. The other plane is the other end field joint. When cutting these if the panel is tilted up a tad or down a tad, no big deal. This makes the joint the primary focus not panel elevation at other end. The joint being abutted to has to be tight. We can miss a smidge on the next joint cause the next panel will take that up. When clamping a inside compound curve to a frame. When it is drawn tight it gets shorter. Imagine trying to get all 4 planes of a compound curve dead nuts a bunch of times.
That was the long way around the barn to bring you to the next step. Since the table base is upside down. The bottom of the panel gets trimmed first.
The way it was done requires a level straight frame before the frame is skinned. All the frames were leveled and plumbed with a laser.
Since the little section is on wheels. The bottom plate is much higher off the ground to accommodate the wheels.
So I made mobile platform The height of the finished face panel. Then set up a router on a ski with the cutter set a hair off the platform.
Drew a line around the inside and jig sawed off most of the off fall.
Then routed off all of the core leaving the skin at the platform level.
Did not rout all the way through so as not to snag and tear the veneer.
This left the skin standing tall. Then a laminate trimmer was used to size that down
Since the face of the wall is 15 degrees this left a high edge of the face. This was desirable so that it could be block sanded to the machined plane.
Block sand down the ridge on plane until pencil is gone and we have a perfect plane.
Kevin
Last edited by Melchizedek; 03-05-2015 at 05:08 PM.
03-05-2015, 05:53 PM
#214
Whoops, sorry, wrong thread. I was looking for the Gilmore Red Lion Build. I've been away for a while, just now trying to catch up.
Nice work there Kevin! Don't know if you'll get that thing off the ground though.
I've been away for a while, just now trying to catch up.Nice work there Kevin! Don't know if you'll get that thing off the ground though.
03-06-2015, 03:03 PM
#219
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Wow Mike
You set one high bar. I hope we can get our noses over it standing on our tippy toes.
Thank you,
I have been thinking the veneer choice was a stinker. Barn wood came to mind.
Today I squirted some lacquer thinner on a panel and it really surprised me. It was quite pretty.
Next update I will take a shot of it wet with LT.
Kevin
You set one high bar. I hope we can get our noses over it standing on our tippy toes.
Thank you,
I have been thinking the veneer choice was a stinker. Barn wood came to mind.
Today I squirted some lacquer thinner on a panel and it really surprised me. It was quite pretty.
Next update I will take a shot of it wet with LT.
Kevin
03-08-2015, 12:10 PM
#220
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Surprise surprise, an update on the Red Lion.
After 60 plus hr weeks I didn't think there would be one.
But, I have been itching to get to this part and felt inclined
Started the plug for what will be the cowl. The cowl of the RL is a round reverse taper ( big diameter in the front )with a big bullnose on the front leading edge. It is to big for my lath or drill press to turn. So I cut 2 round plates, one the diameter of the largest front part and one of the smallest rear part. Used a router to cut perfect circles with a 1/4 hole in the center. Then made a cross brace to hold the 2 platters at the correct spacing with 1/4 brass tube dead center. The tube will center the platters. Then foam was mitered to make a circle for the wall and one for the front bull nose of the plug.
Once that sets up the bull nose will get sized (over size) and glued down. Then the walls will get sanded from hard platter edge to platter edge to bring the walls to the correct shape. Then a jig will be made to sand the bullnose. Then it will get a coat of epoxy to seal it. Then Glassed.
Kevin
After 60 plus hr weeks I didn't think there would be one.
But, I have been itching to get to this part and felt inclined
Started the plug for what will be the cowl. The cowl of the RL is a round reverse taper ( big diameter in the front )with a big bullnose on the front leading edge. It is to big for my lath or drill press to turn. So I cut 2 round plates, one the diameter of the largest front part and one of the smallest rear part. Used a router to cut perfect circles with a 1/4 hole in the center. Then made a cross brace to hold the 2 platters at the correct spacing with 1/4 brass tube dead center. The tube will center the platters. Then foam was mitered to make a circle for the wall and one for the front bull nose of the plug.
Once that sets up the bull nose will get sized (over size) and glued down. Then the walls will get sanded from hard platter edge to platter edge to bring the walls to the correct shape. Then a jig will be made to sand the bullnose. Then it will get a coat of epoxy to seal it. Then Glassed.
Kevin
03-08-2015, 02:39 PM
#223
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Missouri
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Thank you Steve for your kind words
Thank you Robert, It was so nice to spend some time on the Lion.
I have been missing working on it. Right now I have a low level disgruntle and fatigue going on with all the extra hours at work.
There is another 3 or so weeks of geterdone to get through so updates on the Lion will be spars.
On the bright side, extra money will come in handy. This hobby is expensive. Lol
Kevin
Thank you Robert, It was so nice to spend some time on the Lion.
I have been missing working on it. Right now I have a low level disgruntle and fatigue going on with all the extra hours at work.
There is another 3 or so weeks of geterdone to get through so updates on the Lion will be spars
.On the bright side, extra money will come in handy
. This hobby is expensive. LolKevin
03-08-2015, 04:30 PM
#224
I have been missing working on it. Right now I have a low level disgruntle and fatigue going on with all the extra hours at work.
There is another 3 or so weeks of geterdone to get through so updates on the Lion will be spars.
On the bright side, extra money will come in handy. This hobby is expensive. Lol
Kevin
There is another 3 or so weeks of geterdone to get through so updates on the Lion will be spars
.On the bright side, extra money will come in handy
. This hobby is expensive. LolKevin
