Gilmore Red Lion Build
#451
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Hi frazer
Yes, you are spot on.
The discussion of whether to go down the road of fg part making was in very general terms.
In more personal terms, I committed to building 1/3 scale so I had no choice. If I had started building the 1/4 scale I would always have the fire insurance of buying said parts. In a weak moment I might have done that. The other reason was cause this plane would be unique from the others.
If your familiar with the story of Cortes and the Conquistadors. When they landed in the New World, he had his men burn the ships. No turning back ( I know there is disagreement on whether this actually happened.)
When pressing on is the only option, commitment is cemented.
Beginning construction at 1/3 with no option for parts was my " burning the ships"
Kevin
Yes, you are spot on.
The discussion of whether to go down the road of fg part making was in very general terms.
In more personal terms, I committed to building 1/3 scale so I had no choice. If I had started building the 1/4 scale I would always have the fire insurance of buying said parts. In a weak moment I might have done that. The other reason was cause this plane would be unique from the others.
If your familiar with the story of Cortes and the Conquistadors. When they landed in the New World, he had his men burn the ships. No turning back ( I know there is disagreement on whether this actually happened.)
When pressing on is the only option, commitment is cemented.
Beginning construction at 1/3 with no option for parts was my " burning the ships"
Kevin
#454
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4 layers of 3oz glass.
The side with the cuff was a bugger. Multiple pieces and a bugger getting inside the cuff.
Waiting for the glass to get stiff, then will clean up flush to the flange. At least that's the plan anyway.
Kevin
The side with the cuff was a bugger. Multiple pieces and a bugger getting inside the cuff.
Waiting for the glass to get stiff, then will clean up flush to the flange. At least that's the plan anyway.
Kevin
#456
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I thought about vacuum but the cuffs made that problematic.
Especially since I chickened out on the alignment bumps on that two part mold.
Parts in the morning.
Glass has been trimmed flush with the flanges. Will pop parts out in the morning.
Hopefully they will be stiff enough. If not I can stick them back in the molds and add weight.
Kevin
Especially since I chickened out on the alignment bumps on that two part mold.
Parts in the morning.
Glass has been trimmed flush with the flanges. Will pop parts out in the morning.
Hopefully they will be stiff enough. If not I can stick them back in the molds and add weight.
Kevin
#458
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Fresh out of the mold
We have Parts !
They are very rigid and therefore heavier than necessary. I used 4 layers of 3 oz glass witch didn't seem like much , but. With curved and undulating structures you get strength with less.
I think I am going to layup 1 easy side with 2 layers. If that is sufficiently strong than the weight can be cut by half. If it is not, Then back in the mold and one additional layer (total 3) will be tried.
I am relatively certain 3 will be great and hopefully 2 will be fine. Ether way the weight can be cut by 1/4 to 1/2 approximately ( minus jell coat ).
This is one of the learning curves with composite work. What to use, how much to use, and where. The how much is particular important with aircraft.
Results
Kevin
We have Parts !
They are very rigid and therefore heavier than necessary. I used 4 layers of 3 oz glass witch didn't seem like much , but. With curved and undulating structures you get strength with less.
I think I am going to layup 1 easy side with 2 layers. If that is sufficiently strong than the weight can be cut by half. If it is not, Then back in the mold and one additional layer (total 3) will be tried.
I am relatively certain 3 will be great and hopefully 2 will be fine. Ether way the weight can be cut by 1/4 to 1/2 approximately ( minus jell coat ).
This is one of the learning curves with composite work. What to use, how much to use, and where. The how much is particular important with aircraft.
Results
Kevin
Last edited by Melchizedek; 06-28-2015 at 05:36 AM.
#460
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Absolutely fantastic! You have done an amazing job in every aspect of the pants. On the glass and weight, all the parts we buy, or get with kits, is a one ply lay-up with a lighter glass. That being said I believe you could do a 2 ply with the 3oz and have a great product. I would leave the gel coat off, with painting it really is not needed thus eliminating more weight as you said.
Again Kevin, very impressed with your abilities and the outcome.
Again Kevin, very impressed with your abilities and the outcome.
#461
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Thanks Steve
And thank you Robert,
Great suggestion leaving the gel coat off. This will certainly speed up the fabrication process. I will have to mix up a thickened paste to get the hub cap detail to come through.
But I am thinking that can be done with the layup process. When the proper recipe is arrived at. Smiles will abound.
Kevin
And thank you Robert,
Great suggestion leaving the gel coat off. This will certainly speed up the fabrication process. I will have to mix up a thickened paste to get the hub cap detail to come through.
But I am thinking that can be done with the layup process. When the proper recipe is arrived at. Smiles will abound.
Kevin
#462
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Thanks Steve
And thank you Robert,
Great suggestion leaving the gel coat off. This will certainly speed up the fabrication process. I will have to mix up a thickened paste to get the hub cap detail to come through.
But I am thinking that can be done with the layup process. When the proper recipe is arrived at. Smiles will abound.
Kevin
And thank you Robert,
Great suggestion leaving the gel coat off. This will certainly speed up the fabrication process. I will have to mix up a thickened paste to get the hub cap detail to come through.
But I am thinking that can be done with the layup process. When the proper recipe is arrived at. Smiles will abound.
Kevin
#463
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I did that in the initial layup. That circle went over the hub ledge. But an epoxy and micro balloon mixture (that's the white stuff you see) went down first as a fillet on that ledge.
I think what I will do is, a thickened epoxy in the little bolt depressions, a smaller epoxy micro balloon fillet on the ledge, then the circle. Then two layers 3 oz. The weight will be less than half.
The idea of speeding the process up and lightening and reducing cost is exciting.
Kevin
I think what I will do is, a thickened epoxy in the little bolt depressions, a smaller epoxy micro balloon fillet on the ledge, then the circle. Then two layers 3 oz. The weight will be less than half.
The idea of speeding the process up and lightening and reducing cost is exciting.
Kevin
#465
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Ok , round two
I only had enough glass for the two hub cap sides. Ordered more tonight.
I wouldn't of layed up the cuff side anyway until recipe is ironed out.
Round two consists of no jell coat, same epoxy micro balloon mix at hubcap edge and fasteners. One ring 1&1/2 wide of 3 oz to cover the balloons, then 2 layers 3 oz over everything.
I was a little liberal on the epoxy as you can see with the shinny layup. This was intentional. Why ? just a hunch that it will be stiffer.
My balloon mixture was a little thinner than I liked, hence the far and broad creep of it. I don't think that will be a factor one way or another
It sure was a lot faster to layup and easier to trim. If it is stiff enough it will be significantly lighter than iteration 1, less than half.
Won't know till tomorrow.
Kevin
I only had enough glass for the two hub cap sides. Ordered more tonight.
I wouldn't of layed up the cuff side anyway until recipe is ironed out.
Round two consists of no jell coat, same epoxy micro balloon mix at hubcap edge and fasteners. One ring 1&1/2 wide of 3 oz to cover the balloons, then 2 layers 3 oz over everything.
I was a little liberal on the epoxy as you can see with the shinny layup. This was intentional. Why ? just a hunch that it will be stiffer.
My balloon mixture was a little thinner than I liked, hence the far and broad creep of it. I don't think that will be a factor one way or another
It sure was a lot faster to layup and easier to trim. If it is stiff enough it will be significantly lighter than iteration 1, less than half.
Won't know till tomorrow.
Kevin
#466
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Look's good to me and you have to remember, once glassed together they are an arch in every direction. And I am sure you are aware an arch is the strongest structure there is.
#468
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Thanks Pete
Popped one of the sides out of the mold this morning.
It is stiff enough to hold its shape and will be stronger when bonded to its neighbor.
But. It is just a little to flimsy for my liking. So what I am going to do is put a couple of radial bands in front of and behind the wheel cut out.
I will use carbon tow for this. Should be a minimal weight penalty.
This will create 2 very stiff light ribs in each pant.
That's the plan as of now anyway.
Kevin
Popped one of the sides out of the mold this morning.
It is stiff enough to hold its shape and will be stronger when bonded to its neighbor.
But. It is just a little to flimsy for my liking. So what I am going to do is put a couple of radial bands in front of and behind the wheel cut out.
I will use carbon tow for this. Should be a minimal weight penalty.
This will create 2 very stiff light ribs in each pant.
That's the plan as of now anyway.
Kevin
Last edited by Melchizedek; 06-29-2015 at 09:12 AM.
#470
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I know post curing of parts makes some proxies harder.
Not sure on west systems.
My concerns would be softening and deforming before hardening due to the thinness if the part.
I think I will stick with the rick free nature of the tow.
When I get home I will weigh version 1 compared to version 2.
It is significantly lighter I know. Don't think a couple of strands of tow will add much weight at all.
Will know more upon weigh up.
Thanks for the suggestion.
The crash proof version one I wouldn't hesitate putting in the oven.
It would snicker at the heat.
Lowest my oven goes is 170.
Mind is still open to persuasion though upon evidence.
Kevin
Not sure on west systems.
My concerns would be softening and deforming before hardening due to the thinness if the part.
I think I will stick with the rick free nature of the tow.
When I get home I will weigh version 1 compared to version 2.
It is significantly lighter I know. Don't think a couple of strands of tow will add much weight at all.
Will know more upon weigh up.
Thanks for the suggestion.
The crash proof version one I wouldn't hesitate putting in the oven.
It would snicker at the heat.
Lowest my oven goes is 170.
Mind is still open to persuasion though upon evidence.
Kevin
#471
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Not trying to persuade one way or another just offering up suggestions. I use West Systems as well and have found the oven to be quite useful, mine is only 170° at lowest also. I usually let it set for 3 hours at the 170° and then turn the oven off and wait until cooled down to remove, typically ends up being over night.
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Have you put delicate/thin shaped parts in at that temp ?
Any deforming or deflection ?
I didn't mean to a sign intentions Robert.
Sorry. I so appreciate your good will.
That's how I have always received it.
Kevin
Any deforming or deflection ?
I didn't mean to a sign intentions Robert.
Sorry. I so appreciate your good will.
That's how I have always received it.
Kevin
#473
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I like throwing thing's around in conversation and have found it generally helps spark a thought not thought of. The smallest as for plies and volume I have placed in the oven was the 2ply 3/4oz lay-up of the cabane cover on the big Pitts. I also placed it in still on the mold, no deformity of any kind but came out twice as stiff.
Most epoxies in any form don't truly completely set for week's or even a month, the oven speeds this time frame up. This is also why some may have issues with paint sticking within days of finishing the glass work.
Also the epoxy has to cool cure before placing in the oven. If one knows the how's and when, some epoxies can be heated from the start but I don't know those. And don't want to!
Most epoxies in any form don't truly completely set for week's or even a month, the oven speeds this time frame up. This is also why some may have issues with paint sticking within days of finishing the glass work.
Also the epoxy has to cool cure before placing in the oven. If one knows the how's and when, some epoxies can be heated from the start but I don't know those. And don't want to!
Last edited by acerc; 06-29-2015 at 11:36 AM.
#474
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Ok, time for weigh up.
First the crash proof version 1.
It came out exquisitely detailed and Auto motive grade (portly)
219 grams, its twin was 209 grams
Now the Jelly Fish .
79 Grams, its twin 76 grams. My what a difference.
Honey, What's for dinner ?
Why broiled jelly fish of coarse!
Ok, report on version two.
There was no need for jell coat accept around the hubcap fasteners. The entire layup is slick but the micro balloon mixture did not pic up the fastener detail completely. It was there but not fine. Also there were a few bubbles under the slurry. There was no way to detect those. So a layer of jell coat on the next layup will go on the ledge and fasteners and I will eliminate the balloon mixture. Will try to get the glass to lay over that ridge. I think I can. Eliminating the slurry should trims some more grams from this fine fish.
Will have to wait on the dinner, will report when she has cooled.
One thing thou, just read a West systems data sheet on post curing. It only addressed layups in cold weather. saying that post curing was a good idea. It also said not to exceed 140 degrees. What's a few degrees among friends ?
Just checked, It hasn't melted
Will report back
Kevin
First the crash proof version 1.
It came out exquisitely detailed and Auto motive grade (portly)
219 grams, its twin was 209 grams
Now the Jelly Fish .
79 Grams, its twin 76 grams. My what a difference.
Honey, What's for dinner ?
Why broiled jelly fish of coarse!
Ok, report on version two.
There was no need for jell coat accept around the hubcap fasteners. The entire layup is slick but the micro balloon mixture did not pic up the fastener detail completely. It was there but not fine. Also there were a few bubbles under the slurry. There was no way to detect those. So a layer of jell coat on the next layup will go on the ledge and fasteners and I will eliminate the balloon mixture. Will try to get the glass to lay over that ridge. I think I can. Eliminating the slurry should trims some more grams from this fine fish.
Will have to wait on the dinner, will report when she has cooled.
One thing thou, just read a West systems data sheet on post curing. It only addressed layups in cold weather. saying that post curing was a good idea. It also said not to exceed 140 degrees. What's a few degrees among friends ?
Just checked, It hasn't melted
Will report back
Kevin