Melchizedek

Yes they are big, Keeping them on the lighter side has become job 1 .
Bullet proof crash proof version 1 weighed 1 lb 1 oz each. Not including the yet to be made gear fairings.

I can't what either Steve,

Kevin

acerc

You are going through the part of homebuilding that cost us so much more than a kit. But very well worth it when it is all said and done.

stevegauth30

R&D. Lol.

Melchizedek

You beat me to it Steve, R & D it is.
It is priceless. Experiential knowledge comes no other way. Accept for....................... Staying the night in a Holiday Inn Express.

I know the followers of Roberts thread have seen this but some of you might not of. It's a Hooooottttt

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8Ah8WTL2i8

acerc

Hey! I am staying at a Holiday Inn all week. Think I can fly Jacquie's Extra when I get there?

Melchizedek

I think that's for express customers only

Melchizedek

Results from baking at 170.
It did harden it slightly more. But I think not much more than time would have.
And there was some slight distortion, not as much as I would of thought. Just a little.
I won't be using heat on the final version 3.
The outer edge is still more flimsy than I would like. It is plenty stiff at the nose and tale. But the top and bottom flatten out and loose the benefit of the arch.

On version 3 I will add a 2 inch wide additional 3 oz band around the perimeter. This will create 3 layers at this point and will be much stiffer.
It was necessary to do this on the cowl also. Lesson learned, edges need more glass to stiffen them up.

Hear are the two points of deformation albeit slight. I will be using the molds to glue the final two spats halfs together. I am aiming for perfect positioning to get a lapless seem.




Kevin

Melchizedek

Hope to get the final layup of the spats this week end.

The parting planes have been set for the gear fairings.
A little bit of clay work to do to them then wax. Then they will be ready to mold.



Kevin

BrightGarden

I think you can start making replicated parts for full-scale airplanes, now. Fantastic work.

Melchizedek

Thanks BG. I think I'll leave full scale to the pro's.

Nothing you haven't seen before. But........ no pictures, didn't happen.

Version 3 is all laid up. I feel pretty good about the balance between strength and weight. Will no for sure tomorrow.
Getting faster at this but this still took 4.5 hours.
Boy am I ready to move forward. Oy vey



Kevin

Melchizedek

First half of gear fairings molds laid up.

Hawkeye

My Feedback: (27)

Kevin,
I have been following along your build and the amount of dedication you have to every small detail is a real inspiration for me to get back into building.
I have never done fiberglass work and one thing that I have never understood is how to "trim flush with the flanges" as you say in post #456. You are at that same point with the fairings right now. Would you mind detailing how you do the trimming. I'm sure it is pretty straightforward, it would help a lot if I could find out the procedure.
I am, as always, anticipating the new posts to your build.
…Steve

Melchizedek

So glad to have you along Steve. Thanks for the kind words.

As far as the trimming flush to the flange goes. I use a single edge razor blade. Timing is critical.
You wait until the epoxy is firm but not yet hard. This window varies. There is optimal (easy cut). To early (gummy or wet, wait )
Later ( hard to cut). To late ( cussing and poor result). Whether you use a slow hardener or fast your mileage will vary.
Always cut toward the mold flange so as to not pull the glass away from the mold edge.
Also not a good idea to do this home alone. I was thinking this while cutting. A slip with a razor will lay you open

I have read of some using a woodworking file. I tried this ( although file was dull) with unsatisfactory results. Will have to try it again with a sharp file.

This is my first go round with making fiberglass parts. I have made CF parts before but not for airplanes. The principles are nearly the same. If you are handy you can do it. Just takes a committed desire ,with sticktoittivity. On every layup so far I thought I was over my head ( easy for uncommitted to bail at this point), but sticking with it till the end almost always yields good results (in life too).

This is where I got started -> http://www.cstsales.com/tutorials.html
Read through there tutorials. Takes all the mystery out of it. Yes there is a learning curve but that curve just keeps yielding better product as you go around the bend. I also ordered there large molding kit (3 years ago). It has everything in it to get you going. I think 150 bucks. The thing about the kit, it gets you up to speed with the basic materials and there is enough to do a small to medium project to completion.

As far as trimming the molded edges. I do it the bruit force way. A belt sander with a 60 grit belt.
Do this outside if you can. Where pants and a long sleeve shirt and dust mask. The dust is extremely itchy.
With belt sanding the edges toward the parting plane. It will cut away any resin overlap and leave a clean release line.
I do this after it is hard so as to not disturb the molded parting plane. (others may do this differently).

Here is clean up of the first side of the gear fairing. In the first pic the one edge has been sanded flush with plane. The second is in fearful expectation .



Kevin

Hawkeye

My Feedback: (27)

Thanks Kevin, I would not have thought to trim it before the resin cures. And thank you for the link to the tutorials.
...Steve

Melchizedek

Version 3 is out of the mold and I am satisfied.

On Ver 3 I used a jell coat. The jell coat gives a better finish and picks up fine detail if you have it.I also think it gives a harder face and nicer finish.
Although if you have no fine detail you can go without it. Version 3 had two layers of 3oz cut on its bias ( 45 degrees from grain) . Cloth cut on its bias conforms better to complex shapes. One layer down then a 1 1/2 inch band around the perimeter not cut on its bias. Then another layer down.
Very satisfied with rigidity and elated with the weight.

Here is version 1

Yep that's 1.07 lbs. Strong as an ox and portly like one also.

Here is vesion 3. Shazam, they weigh identical. How'd that happen. Captain lucky rides again!!!!



In total just under a pound. Considering the size I am very happy. Shaved over a pound off the total.




Kevin

acerc

Looks' damn good Kevin, you should be proud. I was never a fan of Gel-Coat, loved the details but the paint kept flaking off. Then I found some appropriate primer (on line) and have had no issues with paint since then. Now I love the Gel-Coat, serious detail abilities as you mentioned.

Melchizedek

Thank you Robert, and yes I am elated with the final result

The 2nd side of the fairing mold has been laid up. Yeaaaaaa
I am about molded out !!




There was 1 more task for the wheel spat plugs. That was to set them back in the gear jig so I could get the placement of the fiberglass inside half dead on. After each plug was seated on its mast. Two saddles were made to match them. Then the plug mast was removed from jig and saddles place on the spat center line. Now the spat half can be put in, taken out and re indexed in a jiff while the gear wire is bent to shape. Once the gear wire is shaped, mounting blocks can be affixed to the spat half. Also notice the fairing lines on the side of the dog house. These will be index lines to get the gear wires in the correct symmetrical placement.





This brings me to the gear wire. It will be 1/4 inch piano wire.
This will be the first time for me to bend hardened wire. I know it will need to be annealed.

Questions.
Can you just anneal it at the bend points or do you do the whole wire then bend it ?
When heating it do I just need to get it red ?
Then what is the procedure for hardening it again ?

Anyway, anyone with experience bending 1/4 inch piano wire. Can you give me the does and don'ts ?
I do have the heavy KB wire bender.
Thanks,

Kevin

stevegauth30

Make sure the bench used to hold the vise, that holds the bender is bolted down, Lol. Youll drag that bench right out the door. hehe.

Melchizedek

Will do Steve.
Will also check the house foundation mounting bolts

Melchizedek

Gear fairing molds complete





Kevin

stevegauth30

i like the way you made use of the little rubber door buttons. least thats what they look like.

Melchizedek

Steve,

That's exactly what they are. They were used in the first side layup. When that set up, they were dug out of that parting plane. Then on the second side layup the depressions filled with resin to make male side fit.
The one thing needful is. The glue line of the bumper creates a slight undercut under the bumper. After prying the bumper out it, is important to ridge ream the depression to eliminate the hard ridge. A couple of twists of sandpaper does this. If you don't ream the ridge. those edges will break out when you separate the mold halves. I did this the best on this particular mold (learning curve), These molds snap together like a button snap.
When I go to glue the leading edges together using the molds, there will be perfect alignment. Only the leading edges will get bonded together on the fairings so that they can be slipped over on or off the gear wires. This wont happen till internal mounts a bonded in each side.
After the gear wire get formed.

Kevin

acerc

I would say your nuts but I know better. Very nice work Kevin, keep it up and don't settle for less than what you want.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

WOW just WOW!

Melchizedek

After a little hunting I found this link on bending piano wire and re tempering it. -> http://vaillyaviation.com/images/Wor...re%20_web_.pdf

So I gave it a try today expecting to ruin a wire but things turned out well for the first bend, then did another. First hill climbed.



The second bend will be a little more complicated. Both wires a re bent a different point because of the forward slant of the gear.
The third bend is a compound bend at the top. Wire bent in a different direction.



Will spend some time pondering bend two and three. Thinking on making a jig to make things easier.

Kevin