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Chris Olsen's Uproar. The Renaissance of an Early British Aerobatic Model.

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Chris Olsen's Uproar. The Renaissance of an Early British Aerobatic Model.

Old 01-20-2015, 12:15 AM
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Default Chris Olsen's Uproar. The Renaissance of an Early British Aerobatic Model.

Chris Olsen “Uproar” Build.
Introduction.

In 1959 I was taught to build model aircraft by my Uncle Geoff. I was eleven years old. I had built three small free flight kits and only the last, a Veron Cardinal, was really successful. Geoff suggested I get a copy of the Aeromodeller Plans Handbook and build a model from scratch off the plan. I built a small competition free-flight model, a Gossamer. It flew but I never really took to it and I believe that Geoff never lived to see it for he died of cancer at about that time. He was only thirty.

However, tucked away in the back of that handbook was a picture of Chris Olsen’s Uproar. This was a “full-house” radio model which had won the British R/C Aerobatic Championship in 1958 and I believe it finished runner-up in the European International Competition in the same year. It was a simple box fuselage with a wing attached to the top with rubber bands. (We have come a long way since then haven’t we CPLR!) There was no attempt to simulate a cabin or anything of that sort but something about its functional lines appealed to me. The plan is available on the Outerzone and there is a picture of Chris holding an early version of the model. This version obviously didn’t feature ailerons but ailerons are shown on the plan. The wingspan is quoted as being 72 inches but if you were to build the model as per plan you’d end up with a model with a 65 inch wingspan. I suspect that Chris deleted a couple of bays to improve the roll rate with ailerons. In the mid-Nineties Chris published an updated version of the Uproar with a fully sheeted wing. He used this model as a test bed to experiment with ways of making two-strokes quieter.

Neither I nor my parents were in a position to afford even a single channel radio in 1959 when a single servo cost a week’s adult wages. Radio control was a rich man’s sport, but I was inspired by visiting a flying event near Southport where the climax of the day was an aerobatic display by three early pattern ships. One of them had a slight problem tuning its receiver, (ah the good old days!) and though memory plays tricks with you as you get older, my memory of the occasion is of three un-silenced two-strokes roaring away on the runway while the final adjustments were made. Two of them were low wing models, an Astro Hog and an Orion perhaps but the other looked like an Uproar to me.

My Uproar.

Spool on over forty years and we had reliable affordable fully proportional radios. I was in a position to build my own Uproar. I had passed my A Certificate and considered myself to be a safe and steady if unspectacular pilot. Over the years I have found myself training lots of nervous elderly beginners, I’m that type of pilot! I had treated myself to a new Futaba FF6 radio and having read that Chris Olsen had once fitted a Merco 61 to a later version of the Uproar, I did likewise with mine. Chris’s original model was powered by an ETA 29 so by fitting an engine over twice the size it turned out nose heavy requiring some lead in the rear fuselage. The rudder was tiny so I increased its size by taking the taper out of it; it’s still tiny! I opted for a conventional undercarriage rather than a tricycle undercarriage, though without the steerable tail wheel which is shown on the plan. Both undercarriages are shown on the plan and I believe that Chris built several Uproars, some with two wheels, some with three. Rather than use a series of pushrods and bellcranks I mounted two standard servos in the wing. Other than that I made only two other deviations from the plan: I made the mainspar from basswood rather than hard balsa wood and I made the ailerons fully sheeted rather than faff about with tiny cap-strips.

The proprietor of the local model told me that, “All Uproars were black,” so my Uproar was finished with a black Solartex fuselage and white flying surfaces, orange tips to the wing and tail, and “Uproar” painted in big black letters on the underside of the wing by my best friend Michael Harker who had opted out of the rat-race, indeed he’d never opted in! He worked as a sign writer by day and a guitarist at night! He never saw the model fly for he died of leukaemia in 2002. He was only fifty.

The model’s flying career was brief though I recall it performing the most beautiful axial rolls. It crashed and I repaired it; I don’t remember the details. Then on a subsequent flight, the engine cut, I hadn’t programmed in enough down elevator, the model stalled, and crashed on its nose and starboard wing severely damaging both and bending the dural undercarriage. After that it has remained in my loft for over ten years but at some stage I must have started to repair the fuselage.

The Rebuild.

As you can probably tell, I’m quite emotionally attached to this model. I’m retired now, I have plenty of time, the weather’s lousy and I found that I’d already cut up a set of wing ribs to rebuild the starboard wing, so what was stopping me. I set to work on the model’s renaissance yesterday!

The wing structure is an “egg box” structure which was a popular way of making control line stunter wings at the time. Both the spar and the wing rib have a slot half way down their depth and they are simply glued together at right angles. The completed wing will have a depth of over two inches and features a fully symmetrical wing section. The forward part of the wing is covered top and bottom in 1/16 sheet. The trailing edge is built up out of 1/16 sheet and the ribs are capped top and bottom with cap strips. Pictures attached to show progress so far and the remains of the port wing to show off the sign-writing.



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Old 01-20-2015, 09:53 AM
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Yeah, I'm in - I'd like to see another British plane take to the air again. Found what I think is Chris Olsen's original Uproar, http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...462938&page=26 , the red & yellow one.

I fly another "older" British design, but nowhere close to as old as the Uproar - a Cambria Company 3-ch trainer called The Instructor. I've had the kit for something around 30 yrs, finally built it for my son-in-law in 2007 but not with anything close to its original design colors. Nice flying bird.

The Instructor, as finished for my son-in-law:

Yes, the CSA flags are hand-cut from many pieces of monokote. Only "decal" on the plane is the Cambria logo on the tail.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:58 AM
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Looks like a real thick airfoil and yep i am sighned up for the build . joe
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:12 AM
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SF, if you're referring to Post 382, that's me on the right with the Uproar finished in black and white. The red and yellow model is a Keil Kraft Junior 60 fitted with a brushed electric motor. I built the pair of them, sold the Junior 60 years ago, crashed the Uproar!

Bought some more wood today. Weather forecast is for snow so if i can stay off the booze, I'll crack on with the rebuild. I was going to buy some Solartex and finish the model in contrasting colours top and bottom until I found out how expensive it is these days!


PS.SF. I was given an old Cambria Instuctor by a neighbour years ago. It had belonged to her father but he had died, It had one wing finished in red and the other finished in blue. My current girlfriend used to call it "Political Plane." I gave it away to an impoverished fellow.

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Old 01-20-2015, 04:51 PM
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Yup, #382's the one. I have to say, it's a nice looking plane and I'm quite interested in seeing how it goes together.

The Instructor's a fairly good plane actually. Ours is capable of anything a 3-channel bird is capable of, including inverted flight. High-speed, low altitude inverted passes ALWAYS get some comments from the locals - and then I just push forward a bit on the stick and up she goes into a long HIGH half-loop. Yeah, she's a lot of fun.

You wouldn't, by any chance, remember when the Instructor came out?
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:11 PM
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It would appear that the Cambria Instructor came out in about 1977.
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Old 01-22-2015, 12:00 AM
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This is as far as I've got 07.45 GMT 22nd January 2015. I did take some intermediate pictures but they didn't come out well. The picture shows the basic construction of the starboard wing from the underside, complete except for the wing tip and the sheeting-in of the aileron pivot area and trailing edge.

I was assisted in the build by having bought a huge piece of balsa fully 6ftx1ft (1.8 metres x 30cms) at one of the shows years ago. I assume it was several pieces somehow fused together. The quality isn't brilliant but being so wide I was able to make capping strips with the grain running at right angles to the ribs. This made them very easy to glue into place. In the original plan the capping strips are only 1/4" wide but having stripped back the covering from the port wing I see that I made the cap strips rather wider, about 3/8" or 15mm, when I built the model first time round.

The wing has come out pretty light but very strong. I have used cyano glue much more on this project than I usually do.
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Old 01-23-2015, 11:41 PM
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Having got to the stage where the basic structure of the wing was complete, I realised that I had not drilled any holes into the wing ribs to allow for the aileron servo cables so I cut off a short length of broken FM aerial and filed "teeth" into it with a small triangular file. This produced a tool which could cut though balsa by rotating it between fore-finger and thumb! Very neat holes were the result.


Pictures attached showing the "tool" and the completed wing, planed and sanded, with the tip attached and pinned in place while the glue dries. I transferred the shape of the wing-tip to the balsa with carbon paper, but then I'm old-fashioned!

I've said this above but it's worth repeating, I'm impressed by the rigidity and light weight of the wing structure.

The next task will be to join this wing to the port wing which survived the crash. The plan suggests a dihedral of 2.5 inches or 64 mm but the man who told me that all Uproars were black also said that a one-inch dihedral would be "plenty." After this length of time I can't remember what I did when I first built the model and I don't know whether the specified dihedral of 2.5 inches means 2.5 inches under each tip or an overall dihedral of 2.5 inches.I'll probably go for 1 inch under each wing tip.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:59 PM
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I have only a small amount of progress to relate over the weekend. I stripped the covering from the port wing to discover that the aileron was held on by an "Ultimate Hinge." It is still in serviceable condition so I decided to leave it in place. I still have sufficient Ultimate Hinge left over from the original build so I've decided to use it to hinge the starboard aileron.

I found that instead of using a conventional ply dihedral brace I had simply butted the wings together at the appropriate angle and reinforced the joint with carbon fibre tow. It must have been strong enough because the starboard wing snapped off at the next wing bay, not at the centre section.
The picture above shows the port wing with the covering removed.

For some reason there's a piece if 1/4" sq spruce behind the leading edge of the port centre section, evidence of a previous repair. I'll see whether I can dremel it out. Carbon fibre tows visible. They have proved difficult to sand flat but my battery-powered triangular sander finally did the job.


Port wing before I sawed off the remains of the starboard wing centre section!

Port wing ready for joining. According to my plan the dihedral should be 2.5 inches at the last wing rib, whether that means 2.5 or 5 inches overall is not clear. Apparently the Outerzone plan has a dihedral of 3.5 inches under each wing tip. This suggests to me that Chris was constantly experimenting with the model.Apparently he made 28 Uproars in a six-year period of competing with them. Radio control must have been very unreliable and even dangerous in those days! In order to make the model aerobatic, I will go for a dihedral of 2.5 inches overall and calculated that a dihedral angle of 2.5 inches at 30 inches is the same as 1/4" at 3 inches, my new plywood brace will therefore be 1/8" higher at 3 inches than it is at the centre.

I have been flying WOT 4s and Fun Flys all winter with no dihedral at all so should be able to manage an Uproar with 1"-11/4" under each wingtip.
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Old 02-04-2015, 07:47 AM
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Not a lot of aeromodelling activity has taken place chez moi over the last week as I've been dragged out of retirement and have been busy painting the facade of the biggest shop in Shrewsbury High Street. I was totally knackered at the end of the first two days but I'm getting used to it now. I'm getting paid 10 an hour so I should be in funds at the end of the job which looks like it's going to be on Wednesday of next week. I'll take a picture of it for you once the scaffold has been removed. I'm not working this afternoon because people are coming to view my house which is up for sale. Tomorrow is the contractor's birthday and he's taking two days off to visit his girlfriend in Cardiff.


I got to the stage of joining the Uproar's wing halves when I discovered that I had the mainspar fully sheeted-in on both wings so how was I going to get the dihedral brace onto the spar while the glue dried? I took a leaf out of the carpenters' book at work and glued and screwed the brace to the spar! Picture attached. Once the centre section has been fully sheeted, I'll reinforce the area with fibre glass bandage in order to have a belt and braces.The dihedral is 3.5 inches at the last rib or just under 4.5 inches at the extreme tip.

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Old 02-04-2015, 03:29 PM
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Yep, that's the spirit!! Doesn't really matter whether the brace is on the front or back of the spar - as long as it's there. Seriously though, the only real effect I can see is a bit of extra cutting for the ribs again. Are you planning to put a brace at the front of the TE also?
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:05 PM
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Yes I will put a bridge on the trailing edge and will also reinforce the centre section with fibre glass bandage as you would with a foam wing model.

Apropos of this issue, I used to import Telemaster kits into the UK and sell them throughout Europe until the concessionaire decided to deal with all enquiries centrally. In the old kit-built Telemaster 40, the instructions were to build both wing halves and to butt-join them together without a dihedral brace.The joint was then reinforced with fibre glass bandage. We put a plywood dihedral brace in the wing of the "works" Telemaster 40. Picture attached.

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Old 02-16-2015, 05:08 AM
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I've finished building the Uproar's wing, joined the two halves together and fitted the starboard aileron with Ultimate Hinge to match the port side. I could not resist putting the wing on top of the fuselage for the picture. You know how it is! Once I've covered the wings and installed the servos, I'll work on the fuselage.

The dihedral did not work out as intended! So much for my carpentry and geometry skills! I find that I have 4 inches under the last wing rib with one wing flat on the floor. I expect that it will fly like an ARTF trainer! The plan specifies "2.5 inches dihedral" at the last rib but it's not clear whether that means a total of 2.5 inches or 2.5 inches under each tip. I plan to strengthen the centre section with fibre glass bandage just to be absolutely sure but the wing seems to be pretty strong already. Pictures attached.






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Old 02-17-2015, 03:53 AM
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Good pics!! Yeah, I don't think that at this point I've ever had a plane that didn't see everything come together for at least a few minutes. Nice to see that I'm not the only one that does that.

Dihedral - one of the great mysteries of modelling. I've got a dozen plans here of my planes from the 1960's through 1980's, all of which specify a number, and only 2 of which specify that it's under one outside rib with the other flat on the table - the rest don't say one way or the other. Actually, with your Uproar I don't think it's going to matter all that much either way. She's got quite sufficient ailerons, and you're putting separate servos in the wings - just make sure you've got full travel (or maybe just a bit more than called for) and she'll fly just fine.

That's going to be a great aircraft.
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Old 02-19-2015, 08:49 AM
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I glassed the centre section of the wings yesterday, and sanded it down today. Then I stuck masking tape to the glass fibre bandage because Solartex doesn't take too well to glass fibre bandage. I also drilled two big holes with a tank cutter into the underside to allow me to connect up the extension cables to the servos. The whole cente section is very strong.The new starboard wing is a bit lighter than the port wing and required a small piece of lead on the wing tip. It must be all of that cyano I used!

The next stage is to cover the underside of the wing and to fit the servos.

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Old 02-22-2015, 09:04 AM
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I've finished the wing, it's not the best covering job I've ever done but it's ok. It's currently with the signwriter having "UPROAR" painted in big black letters on the underside.

Having finished the wing I made a very temporary job of fitting the engine mount and engine to the model, screwing the undercarriage on and pinning on the tailplane to see how the model balanced. It appeared to be slightly tail heavy with the Irvine 36 fitted. "Deep joy," I thought, I can fit a bigger engine! I tried sticking the Irvine 46 onto the front as it's the next-lightest of my two strokes but that brought the balance point too far forward! The 46 weighs 18 ozs while the 36 is a whole 6 ozs lighter at only 12. I thought about installing one of my OS four-strokes as they only weigh 16 ozs but I think I'll persevere with the 36, and be prepared to add a little lead to the nose. I could also fit a bigger silencer which might help a bit.


In this configuration the model weighed about 4.5lbs.

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Old 02-27-2015, 07:43 AM
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[TABLE="class: tborder user-postbit-left-user, align: center"]
[TR]
[TD="class: alt2"] The wing is currently away with the sign writer. I have started work on the fuselage. Pictures to follow.

I am left with something of a dilemma about which engine to fit. The model has a very long nose and when fitted with a Merco 61 required several ounces of lead in the tail plane to get it to balance properly. Currently all three of the servos and the RX battery are fitted at the rear of the wing seat, well behind the c of g. Chris's original engine was an ETA 29 which weighed about 7 ounces. My first choice of engine was an Irvine 36 which is my lightest engine at 12 ounces but would the model be too tame with such a small engine? An Irvine 46 would give the model a sparkling performance but that weighs 18 ozs so are we straying into Merco 61 territory? I have the option of fitting an OS 52 four-stroke which weighs 16 ozs. I have a similar size engine in a Super 60 which powers it well enough.

I don't want it to stooge around like a trainer, so which one should I fit to the Uproar if I want a spirited performance? What is the consensus?
[/TD]
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[TD="class: user-postbit-bottom-user"]

[/TD]
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Old 03-08-2015, 12:34 AM
  #18  
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Just a quick note on the Uproar renovation.

I had to remove the servo tray to get access to the starboard lower longeron because the glue joint had failed between the longeron and the side sheeting. I ran a bead of cyano along the joint, squeezed the parts together by hand and the job's a good un! Marvelous stuff cyano! I then epoxied the servo tray back into place, covered the nose area, and fitted a nylon mount for the Irvine 36. I found that I had some lithographic plate in the loft so I've made a metal tank-bay cover for it, something like the original

The wing is back from the signwriters, but I still have a number of small tasks to do. I have to rig up a throttle push rod, fit the tank, make up a longer tail wheel leg, repair and recover the tailpane and glue it to the fuselage.

It should be ready for a flight-test next Saturday when the winds are forecast to fall lighter.
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Old 03-08-2015, 03:30 AM
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CA is one of those miracles that comes along every once in an age - it's saved an awful lot of time and frustration for me on countless occasions.

Best of luck on the flight-test. Looking forward to your report.
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Old 03-13-2015, 12:15 AM
  #20  
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I have stripped, repaired and recovered the tailplane. It looks alright providing you don't look too closely. I'm a master with the light-weight filler!

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Old 03-13-2015, 08:18 AM
  #21  
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It still requires the installation of the aileron pushrods and the throttle pushrod, the elevator pushrod needs to be connected up, the tank needs to be installed, the tank cover secured, the receiver and its battery need to be fitted and bound, a decent tail wheel needs to be fitted and there are a few other matters requiring attention but I should be able to maiden it on Sunday if it's not too windy.

Having got it to this stage who can resist assembling it to see what it's going to look like? Certainly not me!


PS. The thing on the end of the silencer is an Irvine Mouse, regrettably no longer made
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Old 03-23-2015, 02:01 AM
  #22  
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Just seen this thread.
From what I can remember the Uproar had a black fuselage and yellow nylon/silk covered wing/tail. It was a very long time ago, so I could be wrong! I used to fly in Sussex and often went up to see Harry Brooks practicing for the 62 world champs. I even helped him out with some building and repairs on The REB that he flew in the champs. We all used to use coloured silk or nylon in those days for covering wings so I expect this is what Chris Olsen did with his Uproar to keep weight down.
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Old 03-23-2015, 03:30 AM
  #23  
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The Uproar has had its maiden flight. It was a disaster. I had some how built the tailplane with too much positive incidence, i.e. the leading edge was much higher than the trailing edge and it was uncontrollable. I managed to set it down with no damage other than a broken prop and ripped off undercarriage. The plan was consulted. Open heart surgery is required to the rear end followed by three dimensional jig-saw puzzling!

I'll get it right.
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Old 03-23-2015, 04:02 AM
  #24  
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Simple design rules for any aerobatic plane > Thrust line, tail plane and wing all rigged zero incidence. It will always fly like that, but not perfectly. Then trim by possibly increasing wing incidence if symmetrical section - not normally needed. Thrust line normally a little down to maintain level flight under full power and low power without trim change, and to one side (?right) to maintain true full vertical flight without any trim changes.
Hope that helps with the rebuild. Eddie ex F3A FAI flyer. Have a look at GBR/CAA website for trimming tips.
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Old 03-23-2015, 05:50 AM
  #25  
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Thanks for the advice Eddie. I'll make sure everything is set zero-zero before I fly it again.
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