3-D Flyer

My Feedback: (150)

Hi Guys, looking for a little help here. I aquired about 9 or 10 engines from a ex-fellow modeler who had to bow out to the hobby due to vision problems. In a partial labor trade he gave me a box of BRAND NEW and unused Old engines. I have sold half of the larger ones, but i am left with 4 i have no clue as to what their value is. I want to sell them however i do not want to short change myself or offend someone with a silly price! Any info is much apreciated! I have a (NIB) ENYA 45 6001-model (The box is clear plasic and says "M.R.C. Enya company, inc. Brooklyn New York, "on it. It also says "the hand lapped engine" on it. It is perfectly clean, the only thing i could see that is not so great, is the foam liner it lays in has kind of deteriorated or broken down, so it is very brittle. Other than that it is PERFECT! What would a fair asking price be for this?

Next, i have a (NIB) Super Tigre ST .60 The original box is the red made in italy box. It does not have a muffler, rather some sort of damper type mechanism on the outlet. It is also in perfect condition! What is a fair asking for this?

ALso, i have a o.s. max H40/R.C. ringed engine. (NIB) This one you can tell is BRAND NEW, However it, like the super Tigre has no muffler but some type of internal damper mechanism on the outlet. This engine for whatever reason, i can not seem to be able to turn the shaft, so i do not know if it is from just sitting so long or what. I would imagine if it was disasembled it can bve freed up, but that is only a guess. Is this worth anything? Or is it a paper weight?

Lastly, i have a O.S. 60F GP (NIB) with the same deal as the os 40, i can not seem to turn the crankshaft. I do not know if there is a reason these 2 do not turn, or if it is just from age. The thing is is there is no sighn of rust or anything! These things are beuitiful and in perfect never run or mounted shape! This one also has the mechanical device on the outlet that is hooked up to the throttle arm.

Well, I want to get rid of these things as i have no use for them whatsoever,(I fly all giant scale gassers) So i am looking for a little help as to their value. If anyone is interested in any or all of these let me know. THANKS for any and all info!!! Happy Landings! Dave.
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FHHuber

The Enya... probbly worth close to the cost of a current new one. Enyas have been good engines for a LONG time.

The Super Tiger... no idea.

The The O.S. .40... unless you can free it up... its not going to bring $5. Try drippng some fuel n the glow plug hole and into the carb and let it sit in a zip-lock bag overnight. It may loosen it up. (fuel makes a good solvent for the congealed oil) If it frees up... its worth maybe $50 NIB.

The 60 F (is that the SF? if it is its a GOOD engine! SF dates from about the time of the H being discontinued to when the FX came in.) Again... near valueless if its not free. If its the ball bearing SF, its worth more to some people than a NEW FX (or whatever the new designation is... they just changed again). If its the bushing bearing engine of the same time... its not worth much.

TonyF

My Feedback: (92)

Does the ST.60 have a "V" on the side? If so, that's a "Light Case" .60 that the U/C Stunt fliers value highly. If it's NIB it may be worth $150 or so.

The O.S. .60 is either a Gold head or a Blackhead. Can you say which? It could also be an even older version witha silver head. If it's a GH or BH, NIB without a muffler is probably worth $100 or so.

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

If you can't get a muffler for them they are in my opinion "paper weights" . You could try to free them up with fuel or alcohol but first put a old nylon or black plastic prop on them , DON"T use a pliers on them . You could also heat them up with a heat gun & holding it in a rag wiggle the prop back & forth . Takes a little elbow grease & common sense. Hammers & pliers NOT allowed . Good luck , MAX H.

FHHuber

You can get a muffler for anything... Tower engine muflers usually fit older O.S. engines. (If I lose the back end of an O.S. .46 muffler... I buy a Tower .46 muffler and save near 50% of the replacement muffler cost)

Its just a matter of looking around. I found a muffler that adapted fine to an old green head Torpedo .23.

3-D Flyer

My Feedback: (150)

Hi guys, Thanks for the info... PLEASE KEEP IT COMING! About the mufflers, I'll be honest, i do not know how you would mount a muffler on one of these. There are no mounting screw holes. Like i said earlier...It has some sort of mechanical linkage hooked up to the throttle arm, To me it's weird, to others it may make perfect sence. I can see how it would work with the damper(if you will) will give it back pressure but i would think it would make one heck of a mess with fuel! Like i said i'm not sure what these are all about but i want to figure out there value. I had someone offer me $25 for the o.s. 40/r.c. I don't know if this is good or if i should just hold out to see if they are worth more.
Oh the super tigre .60 DOES have a "V" on the side of it. Is it really worth $150.00 ?[X(]

bigchap

this is a good tip for unsiezing engines-get some olive oil and warm it on the stove,try not to use a good pan as i have found that makes my wife shout a lot!,and pour it into every orifice that you can find,on the engine you pervert!,this normally works a treat.

ChuckAuger

My Feedback: (12)

I wouldn't worry about mufflers.. If the engines are new, collectors would IMHO rather have the exhaust baffle and linkages instead of some cobbled on muffler. Yes, the light case ST 60's bring more than $150 on E B A Y if you get the right guys bidding. There used to be a guy that sold nothing but venturi inserts for the ST Stunt engines. I bet you could get more than $25 for the OS 40, also. The OS 60 would bring $100 on a good E B A Y day, especially if it happens to have a gold head.

Some pics would be nice so the guys would know just what you have. There are lots of variants of these engines, some are more collectible than others.

3-D Flyer

My Feedback: (150)

Hi Chuckauger, Thanks for the tips! Did not think they would be worth that much. I have been toying around with the idea of getting a digital camera( that is besides the one on my cell phone) guess i will wait till then to try to e-bay them, makes sence people would want to see pix of those for sure. Hummmm if i sell one of these that would almost pay for the camera!

jessiej

[Hi guys, Thanks for the info... PLEASE KEEP IT COMING! About the mufflers, I'll be honest, i do not know how you would mount a muffler on one of these. There are no mounting screw holes]

If you find a muffler that is close to matching up with the exhaust stack it is easy to make a strap on mounting from a hose clamp.

jess

3-D Flyer

My Feedback: (150)

I curious as to how these engines were intended to be flown(mufflers or none?) Is that how they installed mufflers for these or were they just not used?

ChuckAuger

My Feedback: (12)

They didn't use mufflers. The exhaust baffle kept some back pressure in the cylinder to keep the plug from going out (either back pressure or just heat retention..I don't know..) but it wasn't for noise reduction.

3-D Flyer

My Feedback: (150)

Yes, that's what i was thinking, must have been messy huh?

LesUyeda

The exhaust baffle was coupled to the carburetor intake for throttle control. They were run without mufflers, and they were loud, and messy. Even more so than they would be now with synthetic oils. All we used in those days was castor, and it did not burn, just sprayed all over the side of the airplane.

Les

taylorcraft1947

I have a vintage Fli-fly with a new vintage Super Tigre .23 baffle engine in the nose. I received it in trade for finishing a Carl Goldberg cub for an acquaintance. It was never flown and I have just finished breaking in the engine. The engine throttles very well with the baffle, the only downside is that it has no tank pressure and is very noisy. Still, I will never have problems telling how my engine is running in the air.

taylorcraft 1947

downunder

I've come in late here but the Enya 45 model 6001 was a superlative CL stunt engine equal to the ST's of the day. The only ones I've ever seen (I've got 2 of them but have seen many others) were all twin ringed but I believe there was an early version with a lapped iron piston which could explain what's written on the box.

Sport_Pilot

Need to find out if that is a ST V60 or G60, most G60's have a blue head but not all of them do.

old git

As a somewhat ancient modeller I feel I must offer a little advice. Log onto eBay and research engine prices for a few weeks. I have been doing this for approx three months.
These are my non statistical findings.

1) Good pictures bring higher prices.

2) Good descriptions and knowledge of the motor affects price.

3) Shipping worldwide also helps.

Item 3) is my own bugbear, watching an auction that is not open to me going at a low price and knowing that I cannot bid from United Kingdom really sucks.

Aerobat152

My Feedback: (5)

I don't know all there is to know but I do know if you soak the frozen engines in Hydralic fluid such as tranny fluid they will loosen up after a short period of time. If you don't want to mess with that try a product called Knocker Loose found at your local auto store. Good luck.

landeck

My Feedback: (1)

One thing, the foam packing in the Enya plastic box produces a chemical as it deteriorates that can cause corrosion of aluminum parts of the engine. This happen to two Enya's I had of that vintage that I had in long term storage. I would remove the foam ASAP if I were you.

Bruce

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

I think the engines are gone by now ! This thread is over 6 years old . Max H. [&o]

Jeff Worsham

My Feedback: (28)

Nah- they're still around- just in somebody else's box! This last year or so, I've been dealing with old engines from the 30's to the 80's and depening on the engine there's still quite an interest for them. I like using the crockpot and antifreeze method of removing castor/gunk, blow out the antifreeze, then warm it about 10-15 minutes in the toaster oven at 200degF or so. They're usually moving at that point and wd-40 or liquid wrench will finish the job. Followed with a bench run, you're set.

If you're interested in using the warm antifreeze, read up on the threads available and be sure to have plenty of ventilation, use chemical resistant gloves, and don't put painted or anodized parts in there that you don't want to be stripped.