skylarkmk1

John L.,

You can't hide way over there in that corner you call England. You have added to the build with your knowledge of metals and metal processes. They may be a little indepth, but have given us insights we would not have had. Thanks for your input.

damifino

Here, here!! Just knowing you're with us is enough, Old Git..

Stickbuilder

I'm going to dry fit the engine tonight. That shouldn't take too long, and I'll be able to finalize the disign for the servo tray. It will be removable and yet be able to hold the 5 servos that the fuselage requires. I think that the one that I have made will be okay, but I'll be more sertain once the engine is fitted to the firewall.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Brothers-- Y'all hold down the fort this week, I'm headed to the Big Apple until Aug 4th; my daughters have a dance convention / competition at the Marquis Theatre on Times Square. We're staying above the theatre at the Marquis Marriott, hope to get to do the usual tourist stuff while we're there. I can't quite figure out how to stuff my WACO in my bag, or I'd slip out to Floyd Bennett Field for a while

RCer

Hello All

I have been reading this thread with great interest and I have downloaded the plans, manual and drawings of formers, ribs. ... for the Waco. Some day I will definitely try scratch building and this will be the plane for sure. When I started with RC about 6 years ago my buddy and I wanted a Waco but reason took over and we purchased as trainer (a Carl Goldberg kit). After the trainer I build a SIG Somethin Extra. After that I wanted to build the Waco but alas it was no longer in production [&o]. Instead I started on a twin airplan also a kit. This kit is now almost complete and a few month ago I started looking for my next project. I had my eye on a SkyShark Avenger or Dauntless. To my great dismay Skyshark stopped producing kits about a month ago and the kits I want cannot be found anywhere. Double [&o].

Now I have found a Pica Jungmeister 1/5 scale. How is this kit compared to the Waco? It might provide me with that extra skill that I need before I jump into scratch building (I also need a lot of new tools but somehow I think those will be easier to aquire than skill). Please let me know your opinion about this kit. What is a realistic end weight of this kit?


Im sorry if I stray a little bit off the Waco topic.

Best regards
RCer.

skylarkmk1

RCer,

Glad to have you join us. I don't have any experience with the Pica Jungmeister 1/5 scale kit but would guess the kits are similar. I suggest you order the full plans from the AMA to get the most accurate parts. Having downloaded and then taking the plans to have printed, the cost was equal. You will not have to figure out the scale for the formers and ribs, if you can get the files to open.

Since you like the Waco, check out the Barth (Giant Scale - General) thread. There are builders that live in Germany and the Netherlands. It is a little (a lot) bigger than the Pica, but there is good information there also.

Let Stickbuilder know if you want to join the Waco brotherhood, it sounds like you qualify, you have been wanting to build a Waco for 6 years now.

skyjet1

Hey Ken,

Are you going to be back in time for your fun fly on the fourth?

I was thinking about coming up for it if the weather looked good and you were planning on going.

Scott

Live Wire

Off topic
But who on this thread starts a response and Cancel Sorry if I am out of line but I feel OUT of place
Larry K.,

SuperCub Man

Yep! That's what PM's are for!!

Live Wire

I am not pointing my finger at one person or I would Use PM But when the Top Dogs are gone this thread DIE's. If more people would get involved it could get interesting.
And yes I am still working on my PICA YMF 3 restore[:@]

skylarkmk1

RC Outlaw,

Remember, it is the height of the flying season and summer vacation for many. When the weather gets cooler and more people start working on their winter projects, things are bound to pick up.

I often hit cancel after I have started a reply as I have been "timed out too often". If you have a long response, type it out in word proccessing and then copy and paste to the response block. Saves time and you can always use spell checker.

Live Wire

It look like some are just past by after they post like they are not need or is that the case[] If so I am gone

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

RC OUTLAW,
I THINK ITS THE NATURE OF THE BEAST,I'M ACTIVE IN 3 THREADS AND RIGHT NOW THEY ARE ALL VERY QUIET[], BUT LIKE SKYLARK SAID IT WILL DEFINITELY PICK UP AS THE COOLER WEATHER COMES IN,ALL YOU GOTTA DO IS HANG IN THERE


GEORGE
WACO Brotherhood # 5

pimmnz

And many of us read these things at least once per day, but most of us have little to say/add to what the vociferous here have said, certainly few of us have access to the information of the full size that a select few have, and we are mighty lucky to have them here. My image files are full to overflowing with stuff that will be useful in any Waco build. Only have to decide which one will join the UPF on the flightline...
Evan, W.B. #12.

aminiet

I would like to add my 2 cents worth here regarding the lack of postings.
I do agree that for one, most people are out there flying, others are busy working and doing honey do's.
My excuse is I work the week ends, and try to do every thing else in the middle of the week.
As for me I don't have much to offer as far as pictures or information regarding the Waco as I am still trying to find good close up pictures of the UMF and put some final details on my Jn 4 Jenny.
Does any on have a good close up picture af the rib stitching on both the rudder, vert stab, elevator and hor. stab? as well as a side view of the fuselage where the two cockpits are.
I am trying something new here, for me anyway, I am trying to do real stitching around the ribs.

Angel
B 58

Didg

I agree with the last two posts and also read this thread every day.

On another note, my Sig SRE was posted to me from Germany two days ago and so should be here soon.

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

I think it is uncalled for to label contributors to this thread as vociferous. I find the commentary to be reasoned and thoughtful. Occasional enthusiasm is appropriate and constructive.

What is it you find so troublesome?

Live Wire

I am not all that bad but I did get some people to Post.

Stickbuilder

The pages seem to go by so quickly. It's time to update the roster.

Stickbuilder

Guys,

I learned of the untimely death of Jim LeRoy over the weekend. It's always sad to receive such a phone call. I will be somewhat busy for a while until I get the Pitts Bulldog framed up so that I can turn it over to CubNut for covering. This model is on the Kit Building forum, under RCU builders come together to build Piitts Bulldog. The model will be auctioned and the proceeds given to Jim's family. Drop in to that site and have a look. I'll still be working on my YMF as time permits. I'll check in on the forum daily, and will make updates as necessary.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Redwulf__34

I'm getting ready to take a shot a Koverall on my Jensen Ugly Stick. I've never used it and I've read a few posts from Stickbuilder and a few others. Can I ask some questions when I get started? I've done a good bit of Silk and Dope in the past but never Koverall. My Silk and Doping experience goes back 20+ years and I haven't done much since. So I doubt I can remember anyway!

I've been to the Sig Koverall thread started by fly4food and it gives a lot of good stuff but there are some blank spots. Hodges and Stickbuilder seem to do it somewhat differently. Stickbuilders way seems a bit closer to how I remember doing things. Do you have to shrink koverall with heat? I didn't see that mentioned by you Stickbuilder.

Sean

Stickbuilder

Use a covering iron or a heat gun to shrink the Koverall. Remember that Koverall is Dacron Polyester, and the shrinkage rate is approximately 12% both in warp and weave. Be careful, you can crush a structure if you are not careful. Also once you have achieved the maximum shrinkage, the product will begin to elongate (grow) and will never shrink again.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

JoeAverage

Heat shrink fabric is poyester fabric. It shrinks a given amount at a certain heat. You need to shrink it uniformally with an iron. Overshrinking reduces the life of an airframe. Butrate dopes continue to shrink with age and this fact must be considered when taughtening the covering as this too will reduce the life of a covering job.

Stits has a manual that is an essential tool. They have a Stits Lite product (uncertified) as well for smaller jobs. They have pinking tape (uncertified) that works great. The following is copied and pasted from Stits:


http://www.stits.com/RC_Model_instru...html#shrinking

HEAT SHRINKING
NEVER USE A HEAT GUN. You cannot control the shrink accurately unless you calibrate your iron. We have iron calibration thermometers available for your convenience. You can use a candy thermometer, coverite thermometer (not very accurate), or any thermometer that reads up to 400 degrees F. Our thermometer is marked to show 225 degrees F. will smooth the edges and the bumps from the glue. The other shrink rates are then listed on the thermometer. The fabric will begin to shrink at 225 degrees F. and can be shrunk incrementally all the way to 350 degrees F. It takes a strong model to take a 350 degree shrink.
Why not use a heat gun? You may go beyond the memory of the thread and get elongation instead. Some heat guns go beyond 500 degrees. In this case you would loosen the fabric instead of tightening it. Since a fabric covered wing or fuselage is really a monocoque construction, we're depending on the memory of the material for strength. After heat shrinking and before trimming, brush a little Poly-Brush along where you intend to trim. Let dry and trim. This will eliminate the "fuzzies" and unraveling.

Stickbuilder

Ahem.....
The elongation situation has been previously covered in this thread. In fact in the post previous to yours. You are exactly correct in your analysis though. It is preferable to use either an iron or a covering iron. A heat gun can be used effectively once you become accustomed to the dry-heat shrinkage of this product. other covering materials can and will differ. As to the Butyrate dope continuing to shrink, this is true as well, however, the shrinkage is so minute that it is not usually a problem on the larger models. I use Nitrate to seal and adhere the product, but I use Automotive finishes exclusively for the final finish process.

As to the shrinkage properties; if you cut a piece of Koverall and place marks at 12'' in both the warp and weave directions, and place the piece in an oven that is at 250 degrees f for 15 minutes, you should find that the shrinkage is just about 12%. if you then increase the temperature to 370 degrees f, you will find that the material has grown to just about it's original dimension. I've performed these tests and they are pretty acurate. This is not to say that I have performed any tests for tenacity and elongation, which normally requires the presence of an Instron unit, nor have I performed any Modulus or roll bending testing either.

Additionally the polymers that are used in the manufacture of Polyester has two parts. The binding agent will begin to melt at 225 degrees c, and the Homo polymer will melt at 256 degrees c. Just a little information that is totally useless there.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

Bill, you still da man!. How you member all dat stuff?