WACO YMF
08-10-2007, 06:53 AM
#3276
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
SCM,
Not trying to answer for Jay, here, but often you actually increase the strength by introducing lightening holes, since you actually increase the surface area of a part by adding these holes. Jay and I talked at length about the hole sizes and locations. If you look back further in the thread, you will find how much weight I removed from the parts, and how much I added back in due to the modifications that I have done on mine. I actually still have a lighter fuse with all the mods than if I had built it by the plan. It probably is as strong, if not stronger than stock as well. The trick is to not go crazy with the removal of the material. Some of the formers on mine have no wood removed at all, due to the shear loading on these formers, while some formers are just something to hold the stringers in place to give shape to the model.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
Not trying to answer for Jay, here, but often you actually increase the strength by introducing lightening holes, since you actually increase the surface area of a part by adding these holes. Jay and I talked at length about the hole sizes and locations. If you look back further in the thread, you will find how much weight I removed from the parts, and how much I added back in due to the modifications that I have done on mine. I actually still have a lighter fuse with all the mods than if I had built it by the plan. It probably is as strong, if not stronger than stock as well. The trick is to not go crazy with the removal of the material. Some of the formers on mine have no wood removed at all, due to the shear loading on these formers, while some formers are just something to hold the stringers in place to give shape to the model.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
08-10-2007, 03:58 PM
#3277
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Georgian Bluffs,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: khodges
Jim, what you're looking at doing is what I did; I'm using it on a simulated metal prop, although the bolted flange is only used on wood props. One of those "acorn" style prop nuts or one of the small tapered ones would be close to what we saw at CCA.
On mine, I took a standard fender washer that fit the prop shaft , drilled it equally spaced in 8 places, and threaded them for 2-56 rods, placed nuts on them and ground the rods flush with the washer and nuts. I Ca'd them to keep them tight.
Jim, what you're looking at doing is what I did; I'm using it on a simulated metal prop, although the bolted flange is only used on wood props. One of those "acorn" style prop nuts or one of the small tapered ones would be close to what we saw at CCA.
On mine, I took a standard fender washer that fit the prop shaft , drilled it equally spaced in 8 places, and threaded them for 2-56 rods, placed nuts on them and ground the rods flush with the washer and nuts. I Ca'd them to keep them tight.
08-10-2007, 11:02 PM
#3278
My Feedback: (1)
RE: WACO YMF
The washer is 1-5/8 diameter, you want one just slightly smaller than the hub of the prop you intend to use; if the hole is too small, just drill it to be a snug fit on the prop shaft so it will center. The prop nut is an aluminum "acorn", I don't remember if it's Higley, GP, or DuBro. It had the hex wrench flats on it at the base, but I ground them off and polished it. One of the Tru-Turn ones in the earlier post above would work well (the larger diameter) also. I used 2-56 nuts, but I think a #1 would look better, if you can find the screws and nuts. Run the screws in from the back, put the nuts on and tighten them, then grind off the heads on the rear. A drop of Ca will keep them tight (the screws must be threaded into the washer).
08-11-2007, 06:55 AM
#3279
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Winston Salem,
NC
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
The layout of all the lightening holes on my formers was based on 'it looks about right', seeing inside of a lot of laser cut ARF's and the extent of their lightening, and years of fabricating race cars and stuff. I'll post some pictures of the landing gear mounting area soon, I think it will work out very nice.
Ken, Yes I do have an English wheel.[8D] It's about 5 times too big for what you want to do with it though!
Choose your material and I will try to point you in the right direction. Lithoplate will be best, flashing will work as well.
Ken, Yes I do have an English wheel.[8D] It's about 5 times too big for what you want to do with it though!
Choose your material and I will try to point you in the right direction. Lithoplate will be best, flashing will work as well.
08-11-2007, 06:56 AM
#3280
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: damifino
Stickbuilder- Your package went out yesterday. Let me know what you think.
Stickbuilder- Your package went out yesterday. Let me know what you think.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
08-11-2007, 08:38 AM
#3281
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Georgian Bluffs,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: khodges
The washer is 1-5/8 diameter, you want one just slightly smaller than the hub of the prop you intend to use; if the hole is too small, just drill it to be a snug fit on the prop shaft so it will center. The prop nut is an aluminum "acorn", I don't remember if it's Higley, GP, or DuBro. It had the hex wrench flats on it at the base, but I ground them off and polished it. One of the Tru-Turn ones in the earlier post above would work well (the larger diameter) also. I used 2-56 nuts, but I think a #1 would look better, if you can find the screws and nuts. Run the screws in from the back, put the nuts on and tighten them, then grind off the heads on the rear. A drop of Ca will keep them tight (the screws must be threaded into the washer).
The washer is 1-5/8 diameter, you want one just slightly smaller than the hub of the prop you intend to use; if the hole is too small, just drill it to be a snug fit on the prop shaft so it will center. The prop nut is an aluminum "acorn", I don't remember if it's Higley, GP, or DuBro. It had the hex wrench flats on it at the base, but I ground them off and polished it. One of the Tru-Turn ones in the earlier post above would work well (the larger diameter) also. I used 2-56 nuts, but I think a #1 would look better, if you can find the screws and nuts. Run the screws in from the back, put the nuts on and tighten them, then grind off the heads on the rear. A drop of Ca will keep them tight (the screws must be threaded into the washer).
Thank you. Great workmanship as always.
Regards, John
08-11-2007, 10:21 PM
#3283
My Feedback: (1)
RE: WACO YMF
Today was only 92, with a moderate breeze. I had to put a coat on when I went outside
.
I drug out the Ikon UPF plans for a closer look today. Looks like a very straightforward build, and the design is very friendly to modification for more scale detail. I especially like that the wingtips, trailing and tip edges of the elevator, and vertical tail and rudder all use laminations of thin strips to achieve their respective curvatures. I'll make a middle layer from thin carbon fiber strip to add shear and bending strength. The hardware pack has some nicely made brass brackets, but the control horns are standard fare and will be replaced with Robarts or something homemade. The tailplane mounts similarly to most kits, I may or may not make it a two-piece, as my UMF looks okay as is, with the simulated trim mechanism. The firewall is recessed, and the booklet says to attach it at a distance appropriate to the selected power plant to achieve the recommended prop hub position.
The ailerons use a single servo with bellcranks. I'll definitely change that to dual servos, but the bellcrank linkage may be modified and kept, as the linkage is at the proper scale location at the inner end of the aileron, and can be made to look very close to the full scale setup. Here are some pics of the plans. Full credit is given to Ikon and the original designers, Joe Zinno and Emil Neely.
.I drug out the Ikon UPF plans for a closer look today. Looks like a very straightforward build, and the design is very friendly to modification for more scale detail. I especially like that the wingtips, trailing and tip edges of the elevator, and vertical tail and rudder all use laminations of thin strips to achieve their respective curvatures. I'll make a middle layer from thin carbon fiber strip to add shear and bending strength. The hardware pack has some nicely made brass brackets, but the control horns are standard fare and will be replaced with Robarts or something homemade. The tailplane mounts similarly to most kits, I may or may not make it a two-piece, as my UMF looks okay as is, with the simulated trim mechanism. The firewall is recessed, and the booklet says to attach it at a distance appropriate to the selected power plant to achieve the recommended prop hub position.
The ailerons use a single servo with bellcranks. I'll definitely change that to dual servos, but the bellcrank linkage may be modified and kept, as the linkage is at the proper scale location at the inner end of the aileron, and can be made to look very close to the full scale setup. Here are some pics of the plans. Full credit is given to Ikon and the original designers, Joe Zinno and Emil Neely.
08-12-2007, 08:52 AM
#3284
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
Well, here it is, I used the kit decals ( thank you, Outlaw) over Red Krylon with a poly urethane clear coat. I still have more orange peel than I would like so may try to wax some of it out once the paint cures completly. Does anyone have experience waxing or polishing poly urethane?
08-12-2007, 02:19 PM
#3287
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: mississauga,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 842
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
JIM.........Looking good. Just came across this thread. Too long to read thru. Just wondering who kitted it and what size is your Waco Ymf ?. I built the Pica original Waco YMF 3 1/6 TH. I built it to fly it and not for looks. Flys great. Has a Saito 91. Covered with 21st Cent. Here's a couple of pics. Recently I was able to get the Waco insignia (Toledo show) from Kirbys. I like your decals.
Charles.
Charles.
08-12-2007, 03:23 PM
#3288
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
Charles,
This is the 1/5 scale Pica WACO, I picked it up partially built at an auction back in October. This has been one huge learning experience but I think it will be well worth it. Everyone I have talked to tells me these are nice planes to fly. This one will be a tad on the heavy side but I have a new Saito 150, so I think I will have plenty of power.
This is the 1/5 scale Pica WACO, I picked it up partially built at an auction back in October. This has been one huge learning experience but I think it will be well worth it. Everyone I have talked to tells me these are nice planes to fly. This one will be a tad on the heavy side but I have a new Saito 150, so I think I will have plenty of power.
08-12-2007, 04:24 PM
#3289
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: mississauga,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 842
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
Jim.............Lucky you were able to pick one of these Wacos. The 1/5 th is a nice size. The 1/5 th. or the 1/6 th. are both nice flyers. Although I built mine almost two years ago I only flew it about five times. Transporting with the wings on is the only way I transport mine. Takes to much time putting both wings together. I also fly the CG Ultimate 10-300, quite a different flyer than the Waco. The Waco is more enjoyable to fly. I've been meaning to reinforce the landing gear so they won't flex too much on landing, and I suppose that is the reason I don't fly it that much. It took quite some time to build the Waco. The Pica manual was not quite friendly.
I left the wheel pants off as I fly off grass, although the Waco looks nicer with wheel pants. I also reduced some of the weight without the wheel pants and hardware attachments.
Good luck with your Waco, just build it to fly it, it is not meant to baby it. She looks great up there and the landings are awesome.
Charles.
I left the wheel pants off as I fly off grass, although the Waco looks nicer with wheel pants. I also reduced some of the weight without the wheel pants and hardware attachments.
Good luck with your Waco, just build it to fly it, it is not meant to baby it. She looks great up there and the landings are awesome.
Charles.
08-12-2007, 05:30 PM
#3290
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Sterling , CO
Posts: 6,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
Charles
You better look at your bird again. then you can see why it flys great
Great looking plane even if all you do is fly it. Details can come later
You better look at your bird again. then you can see why it flys great
Great looking plane even if all you do is fly it. Details can come later
08-12-2007, 07:48 PM
#3292
My Feedback: (1)
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Jim Henley
This one will be a tad on the heavy side but I have a new Saito 150, so I think I will have plenty of power.
This one will be a tad on the heavy side but I have a new Saito 150, so I think I will have plenty of power.
08-13-2007, 08:27 AM
#3294
My Feedback: (1)
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Jim Henley
Well, here it is, I used the kit decals ( thank you, Outlaw) over Red Krylon with a poly urethane clear coat. I still have more orange peel than I would like so may try to wax some of it out once the paint cures completly. Does anyone have experience waxing or polishing poly urethane?
Well, here it is, I used the kit decals ( thank you, Outlaw) over Red Krylon with a poly urethane clear coat. I still have more orange peel than I would like so may try to wax some of it out once the paint cures completly. Does anyone have experience waxing or polishing poly urethane?
08-13-2007, 12:54 PM
#3295
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: mississauga,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 842
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
Jagenweiner......................Try Kirby's Kustom Vinyl Graphics. email [email protected] I saw his stuff at the Toledo show this year. His name is Dennis Kirby (513) 932-2422. His prices are reasonable.
I got my fin decals and reg. numbers from him. They are fuel proof. Good luck.
Charles.
I got my fin decals and reg. numbers from him. They are fuel proof. Good luck.
Charles.
08-13-2007, 03:21 PM
#3296
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lexington,
VA
Posts: 1,556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Garthwood
Jagenweiner......................Try Kirby's Kustom Vinyl Graphics. email [email protected] I saw his stuff at the Toledo show this year. His name is Dennis Kirby (513) 932-2422. His prices are reasonable.
I got my fin decals and reg. numbers from him. They are fuel proof. Good luck.
Charles.
Jagenweiner......................Try Kirby's Kustom Vinyl Graphics. email [email protected] I saw his stuff at the Toledo show this year. His name is Dennis Kirby (513) 932-2422. His prices are reasonable.
I got my fin decals and reg. numbers from him. They are fuel proof. Good luck.
Charles.
I know it's off topic but I'll post a couple of pics of the P47 stuff.
Al
08-13-2007, 04:59 PM
#3297
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: mississauga,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 842
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
Mobyal......................Spot on. His service is fast too. He'll do any decal or insignia for the Waco. He also has colour samples.
Nice decals he made up for you.
Charles.
Nice decals he made up for you.
Charles.
08-13-2007, 06:19 PM
#3298
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: WACO YMF
Scott,
I got a set of the original Pica decals from RC Outlaw, if Dennis Kirby can cut what you need that would definatately be the way to go.
The original Pica stuff is getting hard to come by.
I got a set of the original Pica decals from RC Outlaw, if Dennis Kirby can cut what you need that would definatately be the way to go.
The original Pica stuff is getting hard to come by.