old git

What an interesting picture of an example of an American art form, the CUSTOM bike.

I recall the Megola with a radial engine built into the front wheel of a bike, 1930s ??. I didn't think there were any other devices like it. Just after seeing your pic of the bike I was watching a Television programme about the SHERMAN tank. Facinating from a production engineering point of view but when I glimpsed a RADIAL engine found it rather unlikely. Googling showed that they did in fact use a radial engine.

A Continental R974 C4; 9 cylinder, 4 cycle, radial gasoline.

Sorry but I still cannot upload pics from my computer, but take a look at Google for the engine.The Sherman used a Ford V8 as most would expect but a Radial, - they got everywhere!!!



old git - - - - - aka John L.

aminiet

Stickbuilder.

Going back to your wheel pants modification, I see what you were talking about, those wheel pants are just too wide.
I am thinking to cut them in a vee shape ( > ) to leave the aft tip intact and not to shorten them.
How did yours come out? please advise.

Where in sunny Florida are you located?

Stickbuilder

I sliced 1/4" from front to back and re-glassed the whole thing back together (from the inside) it is fairly simple, and gets rid of at least 90% of the pin holes and voids. I used masking tape to hold the halves together while I was glassing them, and had very little sanding to do when finished. I did use a light scrim of polyester body putty (the tan stuff) to enable me to wind up with no visible seam.

I live in central Florida, just slightly North and West of Orlando. If you look on a map, find US 27 and 441. Where they come together is the City of Leesburg. It is almost dead center of the state, top to bottom and side to side.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
Bulldog Brotherhood #95

aminiet

stickbuilder.

Thank you for your reply, I will do it that way.

I got an idea where you are, I drove US 27 once from I-10 to Miami. Won't do that again.

Angel

Stickbuilder

The best way from Lake City (I-10) to Miami, is by airline.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Bill,

An airline might be faster, but a Waco would be better.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Wherever to Leesburg, Fla, via swept wings and turbine engines: 3 - 5 hours and $295 round trip.

Via two staggered wings and round engine, 3 - 5 days and PRICELESS

BigBoy99

Hi guys,

does anybody here have some pics of the cockpit from a YMF-5?

I´m searching and searching, I mean the whole cockpit, including pedals, stick, seat, fairings etc.

I would be glad, if you can help me [sm=49_49.gif]



Regards

Bernie

Stickbuilder

Bernie,

I think that Skylarkmk1 will be able to help you. He is the best source of information on all things WACO that I can Imagine.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Bill,

Give me a minute or two to sort and load what I have (dail-up is sooo slow).[:@]

Bernie,

Here are some of what I have of NC 14081, a 1987 YMF Classic, it is much more plush than other period (1930s) Wacos I have seen.

Rear Cockpit

P1 – Left Instruments
P2 – Center
P3 – Right
P4 – Left side w/throttle
P5 – Right side

Front Cockpit

P6 – Instruments with pedals (rear pedals are the same)
P7 – Door Area inside.

P8 - Left side and throttle of 1932 UBF-2, NC 2091K for comparison
P9 - Left side and throttle of 1940 UPF-7, NC 173E also for comparision

I can send you larger photos via e-mail but they will take time.

skylarkmk1

Bernie,

Don't forget Noll-Modelltechnik over where you live (Europe). They have pictures of their modern instrument panel for the Barth kits with a wood grain center section for the Supers and Classics.

Stickbuilder

Anybody in North Carolina heard anything from Jay (damifino)? I haven't heard from him in a couple of weeks now, and that ain't like him.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

BigBoy99

John,

thanks, that´s exactly, what I´m searchin for. I´m building the newer version and I have a photo-CD

of it, it´s registered in GB, G-WOCO, but there´s no pic of the cockpit inside.

It would be great, when you could send me a few pics by e-Mail.


Regards

Bernie

skylarkmk1

Bernie,

Send me your e-mail address via PM (private message) and I'll send you the first 7 pictures above. Since each full size picture is about 2mb or a little more, it may take me 3 or 4 e-mails to get them to you (dail up). If you have good exterior photos of your subject plane, good. I do have most of the exterior of NC 14081 pretty well photgraphed, let me know of anything I can help you with. I do not have access to NC 14081 or any other YMFs but do have access to a UPF-7, 3 UBF-2, a QCF, a UBA, a YKS being restored, a YKS completed and others that may be helpful to you.

SuperCub Man

YAHOO!!!
Finally got my load of wood and can start on my Waco. Think I'll do the wings first so I can fit them to the fuse as I build it. I don't think I'll do this (see pix) but I was wondering if any others in the Brotherhood lightened their wings this way? I think you'll only save a few ounces but I don't think it would compromise the wing strength. It is probably a little over-kill in the weight saving department anyway. But I will do as he did in the second pix, and rout a small groove up the wing spars to "capture" the shear webbing. It's an easy setup with the small router I have that was made for tile cutting. An aluminum fence fashioned for it makes things simple and quick. I'm now sorting out the wood for the three models and trying to remember why I ordered this or that! Good fun
I have made my 5/16"sq. wing spars and the 5/16" X 5/8" rear spare from laminations of 2 - 1/8" and 1 - 1/16" sheet balsa. I also made the fuse crutch from 3 - 1/8" and 1 - 1/16" sheets. Easy enough to do for all three kits. This was a tip from Jay and something I have done with fins and rudders etc. but didn't think about doing it for spars. Stronger and light. I used Titebond ll which is what most of the wing and fuse will be cemented with.
Don't know if anyone is interested but I could post a build for the wings. I've seen lots of stuff on the fuse but nothing on wings. Perhaps they are too simple. I build mine all in one piece with a folding wing table. I'll post a pix when I get started gluing.
Now off to the shop to continue making the three kits and then on to cutting ribs. I'll let my buddies cut their own!! I'm running a Club Float Fly tomorrow. Weather looks mean with 55 to 60 degree temps and possibility of rain with 15mph winds. Today it's 86!! Go figure.!!

(Pix from www.airfieldmodels.com)

Stickbuilder

Cub Man,

Lightening anything (within reason) is a great idea. I always lighten the formers (except in the main load areas) There should be no reason not to do the holes in the ribs. I lighten the tail group as well. I like to route the spars for the shear webs too. Great thinking there.....

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
Bulldog Brotherhood #95

aminiet

Gentlemen.

May I suggest yuall ( Texas slang ) watch one of my all time fave 5 films, The Spirit of St. Louis. There are some brief shots on wing rib fabrication, covering, and stitching as well as the operation of the exposed valve rocker arms on the OX 5 engine.
Unfortunately, no WACOS here.

Angel
B 58

BigBoy99

Hi John,

thanks for the pics, they are great. I hope, if I need more details, I can contact you[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]


Regards

Bernie

skylarkmk1

Angel,

While the movie, Spirit of St. Louis may not have any Wacos in it, The OX-5 was used in the Waco GXE. The example shown below is N 6675K, a 1928 GXE that is one of the HARM planes here at CCA and is in flying status (not often, but is flown occasionally). The wing and Lt Blue struts in the fore ground belong to a 1929 Waco JWM. The hanger is pretty crowded with a dozen Wacos and a few others such as a 1928 Bruner Winkle Bird (with an OXX-6), a 1928 Curtis Robin (with OX Tank Conversion) and a 1929 KR-31 (Kreider Reisner, produced by Fairchild, with an OX-5) among others so getting a clear picture is a little difficult.

CCA also has a Timm Collegiate, ser # 1, NC 337, designed by Otto Timm, one of Lindberghs instructors, after the historic flight. Not very succesful, only 6 made. There is also a Ryan M-1 Mail Plane which was the basis for the Spirit of St. Louis. The example at CCA is believed to ser #11 and was flown by Lindbergh while it was owned by Al Menasco and is painted with the markings of 1926 and was flown on the National Air Tour (4000 miles) as White 23.

Bernie,

Any time. If I have a photo or you need a photo of a specific item, let my know. Just remember I do not have access to a YMF of any vintage (original, Classic or Super), but may be able to find a similar item on another Waco to photograph.

BigBoy99

John,

another question, which font type is the registration on the fuse side?
I will make a file of it and let it plot on a painting mask.



Bernie

Stickbuilder

Does anyone here have any experience with either the Zenoah G20EI, or the Fuji-Imvac 24EI? or possibly with the Fuji-imvac 32? I'm thinking that the G-20EI will fit within the confines of the cowl (with only the plug and wire visible. Uuh, ....Don't hold back now, let's have it...

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
Bulldog Brotherhood #95

skylarkmk1

Bernie,

Wow that will be a tough question to answer as none of the Wacos I have seen up close had or have registration numbers on the fuselage side. At best they had advertizing (Texaco or Cartier) or the Waco Logo in the side (P1-2) and it varied in coloration and wording (some did not have the wording “The Advance Aircraft Company” imposed over the logo. A few online pictures had US style marking on the side.

The large fuselage lettering seems to be a characteristic of European, Canadian and South American markings which seem to be all letters.

American markings usually have 1 or 2 letters followed by a 3 to 5 digit number or number/letter combination that is placed on the fuselage side, rudder/fin or under the stabilizer. Rudder/fin markings can be horizontal or vertical. Fuselage markings can be slightly slanted.

The Wacos that are and were here, they all have the numbers on the rudder in 6”-8” tall lettering. A few had the numbers under the stabilizer. The fonts are all of a block variation from smooth, round lettering to letters with the corners clipped like military lettering. Other variables include; the width of the stroke, the ratio of height to width, with or without serif (the little added bits at the end of a stroke) or how decorative the painter was (no script or hard to read lettering). Some letters are plain, some have a single pin stripe and some had a double pin stripe and were in one or 2 horizontal rows.

The two pictures (P3-4) of NC 14081 show the style used (clipped corner) and are the same for both the rudder and wings.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

My only experience is seeing one next to a G-26. The cylinder and head on a G-20 is about the same as a G-23, but the case is a little smaller. The entire engine is smaller than the G-26, which will fit entirely inside the cowl except fot the spark plug and wire, as well as a cutout at the rear of the cowl for a Pitts muffler. I think it would fly a lightly built YMF, but since it weighs less than the G-26, would require additional weight up front to balance it. A 16 inch prop is about as much as you can use, where a -26 will easily turn an 18. For refresher, here's what the -26 looks like on the front.

Between the two (-20 and -26) I'd as soon use the -26; cheaper by about $40, more power, balances fine with no added weight, and both would require about the same amount of cowl modification to fit them.

skylarkmk1

Bill,

Ken seems to be the only "gas" engine brother around, the rest seem to be using "glow" engines.

skylarkmk1

Bernie,

Here is another photo I found online a while ago of a YMF Super N 818JB instrument panel. I think it is from the Waco Classic Aircraft Company site.