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Thread: WACO YMF


  1. #3826
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Bill,

    Navy speak got in the way of your eyesight, go back and read post #3780, Ken did answer your question
    John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
    AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Ken,

    Sorry about missing the post where you answered my question. [:@] I found the spacers at Ace Hardware. I'm going to need to shim them just a tad. I can add an extra fender washer, and they will be perfect.

    Next time you are in the store with the brass brads that you were talking about, if you can get them that cheap, I would be happy to pay you for them (and for the shipping too). I need a couple of bags.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

  3. #3828
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Not to get away from building/flying WACOs, but did any one of you old errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr navy pilot types fly in or out from Guantanamo Bay Cuba, in the late 1950's B.C, ? ( Before Castro )

    Angel
    B-58
    SO MANY WACOS, SO LITTLE TIME.......

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Just got my new issue of Model Airplane News and was pleasantly surprised to see Ken Hodge's YMF in all it's red and white glory in the pilot projects section on page 25. Good going Ken. I'll also put in a shamelss plug about one of my models that also turned up in the same issue. It's the B-17 leading off the discussion on Scale Techniques by George Leu on page 96.
    Still making progress on the Genesis 1/3d YMF. I stringered part of the fuse just this morning. Mitch WB #100

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    RE: WACO YMF


    Trying to spot if the YMF Classic has a strobe on the belly that I can't see in this shot.
    The new Waco Classic YMFs won't get by with just a belly strobe. They need to meet the current requirements for anti-collision light systems. I'm pretty sure they all have wing-tip strobe systems.

    Original Wacos (i.e., those built by the factory in Troy OH in the 20s, 30s and 40s) would be able to get by with just one strobe (belly, fin tip, or wherever) as they only need to meet the anti-collision light requirements that were in place in the late 60s/early 70s.

    Joe
    WB #54

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

    Ken, you never did say what bolts you used to mount your G-26, so I'll ask you again....Did you use 8-32 bolts, or did you drill the mount plate for 10-32?
    NavySpeak got in the way.........
    He's just been draggin' bottom so long..... %^*(#@*^ 8 - #@*&^%)(@%&*$ 32. They are plenty strong, I used socket heads from Micro Fasteners. I Locktite Blue'd them and used split ring lockwashers, they haven't come loose yet, even with a couple of instances of beating up props from nose overs.
    Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: nine o nine

    Just got my new issue of Model Airplane News and was pleasantly surprised to see Ken Hodge's YMF in all it's red and white glory in the pilot projects section on page 25. Good going Ken. I'll also put in a shamelss plug about one of my models that also turned up in the same issue. It's the B-17 leading off the discussion on Scale Techniques by George Leu on page 96.
    Still making progress on the Genesis 1/3d YMF. I stringered part of the fuse just this morning. Mitch WB #100
    What month's issue of MAN are you talking about? I have the November issue, and there are no pics of these planes on these pages? There is a photo of a B-17 in the Warbirds over Deleware article, but page 25 is an advertizement.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    It's the newest issue with a B-25 ARF on the cover. Mitch PS. the B-17 pic at Delaware was mine also.

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: nine o nine

    It's the newest issue with a B-25 ARF on the cover. Mitch PS. the B-17 pic at Delaware was mine also.
    Dang, That one is not here yet. I can't wait to see them. That will bring the yearly total to 3 planes featured from the Brotherhood. One in the May issue of R.C.Report, and now 2 in the same issue of MAN.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

  10. #3835

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    RE: WACO YMF

    ORIGINAL: WacoJoe


    Trying to spot if the YMF Classic has a strobe on the belly that I can't see in this shot.
    The new Waco Classic YMFs won't get by with just a belly strobe. They need to meet the current requirements for anti-collision light systems. I'm pretty sure they all have wing-tip strobe systems.

    Joe
    WB #54
    Thanks Joe. You're quite right. The photo on Page 189 - Post #3777 seems to show a strobe pointing outwards with a white or clear light toward the tail and the coloured light looking forward. I won't be simulating all that, just indicating it with only a coloured LED lighting up and the rest painted - or something!!


    Jim, MAAC #5343
    WACO Brotherhood #56

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: nine o nine

    It's the newest issue with a B-25 ARF on the cover. Mitch PS. the B-17 pic at Delaware was mine also.
    I guess it would be the December issue then. Gee, and It is just barely October. Congratulations on making two months back to back.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

  12. #3837
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Everyone,

    I just got off the phone with Stan's Fibertech. I will personally finish my current cowl, and send it to him. He has told me (today) that he will pull a mold from my cowl, and make them available to us. He did not give me a price, but having them available with the blisters in the correct location will be worth the cost. If you have the parts to make one, you will still have many hours invested in building and finishing it. I will try my hardest to have it ready to ship to him within the next couple of weeks. The new ones will be made from polyester resin, and if they are like other procucts from Stan's, they should require minimal finishing, ie...no pin holes or voids. I hope that several of us take advantage of this nice gesture from him. He does offer the wheel pants as well (in both the 1/5th and 1/6th sizes). I plan to order several of the cowls and pants sets initially.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

  13. #3838

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Bill - That is terrific. I will be ordering 3 sets as well. I hope a bunch of other Brothers will take advantage of this offer and jump in. I think the more - the less expensive!! Anyway, I'm glad we've got a definite answer and I'm in for sure!
    Jim, MAAC #5343
    WACO Brotherhood #56

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Well I've just spent two days + on this thing and finished one side of one aileron and I'm not happy with the results of using the aluminum skin on the aileron. Maybe the stuff I got is too thick and thus is too hard to handle. It has little weight so that isn't a problem. It shows the rivets well (see pix) but is a bear to cut as it distorts the ends of the corrugations when you use scissors and it's wild on the band saw! I have made one side and I am now attempting to glue it to a built up aileron which I skinned with 1/32 ply. At that point I'll make a decision whether or not to proceed with the other side.
    In the meatime I checked back on khodges posting about the Sig plastic corregated sheets and thought I'd just go ahead and order some as a fall back position. As I read his posting it triggered my memory and sure enough last year I had ordered the same Sig sheets as he used when I got the Pepino plans and was considering going with 1/4 scale. I forgot about Pepino after I found the 1/5 scale plans and stored the Sig sheets. Now if my aluminum doesn't work - and work well - I'm going with the plastic corrugations. The interesting side is that I can still put the rivets in. (See pix)! I just don't go quite as deep and presto! Perfect! Not scale to the number of corrugations, but close enough and a lot less work! Here come the compromises!!

    khodges - how much smaller did you make the aileron in order to accomodate the sig skins?
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    Jim, MAAC #5343
    WACO Brotherhood #56

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    RE: WACO YMF

    I just talked with Jay (damifino) and it looks as if he may have the cowl ready before me. Whoever finishes it first will send it to Stan's. I told them that we probably would sell in the neighborhood of 30 units, so I hope that that comes to pass, otherwise, I may be in the cowl selling business.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    ORIGINAL: SuperCub Man

    khodges - how much smaller did you make the aileron in order to accomodate the sig skins?
    Kind of hard to say, considering how I went about changing wingtips, etc on the ARF. Odd thing, the wingtips on the ARF had a curvature on the top surface which was what should have been underneath. When I rebuilt the tips, I also changed the ailerons from center-hinged to top hinged, and reversed them; in other words, I flipped the ailerons over, and used the left-side ones on the right, and vice-versa, which perfectly matched the scale curvature of the new wingtips. I sanded the surfaces as much as I could to thin the balsa sheeting and also thin the trailing edge. When I applied the plastic corrugated material, it worked out that the trailing edges of the ailerons were the same thickness as the trailing edges of the wings. Although they are still somewhat thicker than true scale, they look as good as you could expect a balsa sheeted wing edge to look, and the corrugations on the aileron are flush with the trailing edge. Note the broken wingtip in one pic, still haven't fixed it. I think the plastic sheeting could be applied over the ribs alone, with no sheeting underneath, or sheet the ailerons with 1/32 balsa and then the plastic. I used 3M 99 high strength spray adhesive to glue mine on, just be careful and not use too thick a coat, as the carrier in the spray will soften the plastic if it's too heavily coated.

    Nine-O-Nine-- thanks for the compliment. I sent those pictures in back in June, I didn't think they were going to print them.

    I picked up a nice plane yesterday, couldn't resist it. I was in my LHS last week and there was a gorgeous Super Decathalon hanging from the ceiling; it has a 90 inch wingspan and had a 150 Saito and digital servos, all for $500. I immediately wanted it, but when I asked, the store owner said it was already sold, and hadn't been in the store for two hours. I was back in the store yesterday, and it was hanging from the ceiling again, the store owner said that the guy who bought it said it was too slow. He did keep the Saito however[], but that's really okay, as I want a gas engine in it anyway. I think a G-26 will be plenty, the plane weighs about 14 pounds. It was built from a Pilot kit by one of our club's oldest members and is immaculate, all the control surfaces are sealed, the door is functional, two piece wing, and has the traditional Super-D sunburst pattern in red, white and blue. The price was better, too, without the Saito ($400). The LHS owner told me the kit was around $300 when they were available, and the servos are about $70 apiece (5 came with it).
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    Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Ken,

    I'm really well pleased with the ease of mounting the engine on this one. I'll try and get some shots tomorrow. I'm going to need to use a bellcrank to get the throttle to work correctly. Did you use a 2 line setup with a Tee for filling, or did you go with a 3 line setup? Looks as if I will need to add a couple more fender washers to get the spacing just right. I still need to add the cowl ring to the balsa blocks for mounting the cowl (you don't have this on yours, since your cowl has the ring already in place. When Jay sends me the links that he is making for mounting the cabanes, I'll get the cabanes covered and streamlined, and I will have the fuselage ready for covering and paint.

    This one has been a little long, with the modifications added, which required tearing part of the assembly out, and reworking it completely. I think that these modifications will be worth it in the long run, but they sure do slow things down on the first attempt.

    Note to others doing the firewall modification: Drill your firewall, and install your blind nuts before glueing the firewall in place. You will need to cut holes in your sheeting to reach them if you wait until the fuselage is framed up. Don't ask how I know.....[:@]

    Also, have your tailwheel and it's linkage installed prior to adding the stringers. If you are going to use the adjustable Horizontal Stabilizer, you will need to build the H-stab and set up the drive system for it before adding any stringers too. If we do get the new landing gear, that means tearing out the bottom front stringers and sheeting to reach the gear mounts, but that will be worth the trouble too. Go Sierra, Go.....

    I will try to get some good shots of the wheel pants stabilizer plates too tomorrow.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

    Ken,

    I'm really well pleased with the ease of mounting the engine on this one. I'll try and get some shots tomorrow. I'm going to need to use a bellcrank to get the throttle to work correctly. Did you use a 2 line setup with a Tee for filling, or did you go with a 3 line setup?
    Bill. I used a three line setup. The vent line is looped around the tank once, and connects to a piece of brass tubing that exits under the boot cowl just aft of the muffler, and the filler line exits the top of the boot cowl between the front cockpit and cowl in one of those fuel dots that recess into the fuse. I looped the vent line so that fuel doesn't pour out when the plane is tilted on its nose, and to make the line long enough I can remove the tank without having to unfasten the vent line (it's really hard to get to). The smoke tank is done the same way. I am probably going to take out the smoke system since I can't get it to work (control module went bad, I guess). That will eliminate some weight. I may, however, install it in the UPF later.
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    Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Did you get my message concerning the brads?

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

    Did you get my message concerning the brads?

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Yes. I haven't been back since then, but plan to buy all they have on the shelf. They also have some nice little rectangular hinges that might work for hatches or fuctional cockpit doors, etc. I haven't looked yet, but there may even be an on-line source; I thought of that even as I was typing this reply, I'll check it out. Otherwise, I'll see if there's a way to order bulk from the store if there's a chance of a price break.

    PM me your address, and I'll send you some. Ken

    Just found two sites with hardware, lots more to look at, but I suspect it's all similar. Try:

    www.dollhousecollectables.com/hardware

    www.dollhouseminiatures.com/supplies/hardware

    Most dollhouses are built to 1" = 1' scale, but the brads look like they would make very nice rivets for our purposes.
    Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?

  21. #3846
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Hey Bill,
    I've got a lot of good progress on my covering. Boy do I like this Koverall. It did take forever kovering my two ailerons and elevator. They have scallops. I hope the next time I hear that word "scallop" it's from my wife and they are followed by the words, potatoes and dinner!

    When you cover a horizontal stab and start from the bottom. Do you wrap it up around the top a 1/2" or so? Or do you cut it flush at the bottom and just wrap the top down around and over? The only trouble I've had is sticking the Koverall to Koverall when I lap things. I've found I hit it with straight dope once in those areas and rub it in with my fingers. That seems to be working pretty well.

    Thanks for all your help. Soon I'll be painting!!

    Sean

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: Redwulf__34

    Hey Bill,
    I've got a lot of good progress on my covering. Boy do I like this Koverall. It did take forever kovering my two ailerons and elevator. They have scallops. I hope the next time I hear that word "scallop" it's from my wife and they are followed by the words, potatoes and dinner!

    When you cover a horizontal stab and start from the bottom. Do you wrap it up around the top a 1/2" or so? Or do you cut it flush at the bottom and just wrap the top down around and over? The only trouble I've had is sticking the Koverall to Koverall when I lap things. I've found I hit it with straight dope once in those areas and rub it in with my fingers. That seems to be working pretty well.

    Thanks for all your help. Soon I'll be painting!!

    Sean
    Sean,

    Normally, starting at the bottom, I will wrap the covering material above the centerline of the surface about 1/8" and stick it to the top portion of the leading edge, and then do the top surface, and trim it to the c/l of the leading/trailing edge.

    You are right. Koverall does not stick well to Koverall, unless you add a coat of dope to where you want the top layer to stick.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

  23. #3848

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Hi Bill, I got a note from someone who has built the Pica Waco and they suggested that I put only 1 degree positive on the stab. They had put 2 degrees pos. per plans and found that the plane had to be flown with some down elev. trim. You or anyone else found this?
    Jim, MAAC #5343
    WACO Brotherhood #56

  24. #3849
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Thanks Bill, So you are overlapping about 1/8" then it sounds. That's more or less how I did my small pieces, rudder, ailerons etc. The ailerons and elevator had to be wrapped further over because of the scallops.

    Sean

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: SuperCub Man

    Hi Bill, I got a note from someone who has built the Pica Waco and they suggested that I put only 1 degree positive on the stab. They had put 2 degrees pos. per plans and found that the plane had to be flown with some down elev. trim. You or anyone else found this?
    Just a comment Jim. +2 degrees on the stab will require less down elevator trim than +1 degree. On my Pepino Waco I have set the stab for 0 degrees. The top wing is -1 and the bottom wing is 0. This is the same setting that I have on two other biplanes, Giant Aeromaster and 1/3 scale Jungmeister. It remains to be seen if I made the correct decision on the Waco. If not perfect, it will be close.
    Ken
    WACO Brotherhood #70, Arlington TX home of the Dallas Cowboys, SupBowl45, Texas Rangers, World Series 2010, 2011


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