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Thread: WACO YMF


  1. #4151
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    RE: WACO YMF

    I had already done the cam case in the teal. After looking at it, I think it's gonna stay that color. I might change my mind and repaint it in battleship gray. I think it looks pretty close to scale though.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
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    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Bill,

    Looks good as is, I'd leave it alone, too much work to paint around everything.
    John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
    AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC

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    RE: WACO YMF

    I'm thinking that I might make a gray wash and brush that over the case to subdue the teal. I'll do a test to find the right amount of thinner to use to just knock the edge off the color, and add more grey to the hue.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Bill
    Looks good for here
    here is another picture
    tr
    WACO Brotherhood # 69
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  5. #4155

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Mans best friend, this is my dog Ruby. She knows when things get bad with my airplanes she wont get a walk like she needs. She is pictured here with my old Waco right after I came home from the field where the NEW guy there turned on right when I came off the ground, cart wheel, can you say cart wheel? If it looks like she is about to attack you in this picture your right! For what ever reason she knows something was not right and she would not let anyone around the old Waco for several mins. Nothing a cookie didn't take care of but the thought was sure nice of her. The red Waco is on the bench about ready for the electric conversion on her.
    Don,
    Waco Brotherhood #68
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  6. #4156
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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: r/c John

    Hey guys:

    Check out E-Bay item # 26017406615, look at those moulded corrugated ailerons. Looks like someone was making them commercially, sure would be nice to find out who and maybe get them back into production..

    r/c john
    John,

    These are the ABS plastic aileron sheeting sets that were provided wiht the PICA kits. They are incorrect, in that they only allow for 27 corrugations per aileron. They are actually pretty junky. I have quite a few of these sheets, and have always been less than impressed with them.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    bill

    Ive had a brain fart can't remember what brand 1/2a nose wheel to use , do you have a pic of the set up ?





    charlie AMA 8916

    WACO brotherhood #67
    charlie AMA 8916
    WACO brotherhood #67

  8. #4158
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    RE: WACO YMF

    I used the Goldberg Nose wheel bracket, but I have a custom made gear shaft and fork.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

  9. #4159
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Charlie,

    Back on page 29 you can see what Hughes500 did for his tail wheel. Pages 42-43 is what Khodges did on his Cox Waco (no longer an ARF with the mods and details).
    John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
    AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC

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    RE: WACO YMF

    I had every intention of repainting the cam case today, but got sidetracked, and then Georgia Whupped the Gators, and it looks like Tennessee is going to give South Carolina some of it too. How bout them Vols?????

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

  11. #4161
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Has everyone gone away? This thread normally has plenty of action. I know that damifino is having computer problems, but what about the rest of you? I'm working on covering the tail surfaces, and will be contacting Darrell tomorrow (Monday) about what he needs for the gear mount. I am probably going to cut my gear out and make a plate to mount the scale gear. This thing is going to be a flying modification. There is almost no part that has not been altered from the original. When I get it done, it won't be anything like the others that I have built. It really will be a Phoenix Project.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

  12. #4162
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    RE: WACO YMF

    I finally heard from the RCU Administrator concerning the change to the number of posts per page. RCU feels that having more posts per page is more fair to the advertisors than having fewer posts per page. I didn't follow the logic of that one. Looks as if we need to catalog the posts by post # rather than by page #. I really hate that this happened.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Well I hate to see you lonely Bill!! So here's what I did today. I decided to set up the incidence for the bottom wing and drill the holes for the wing dowels as the first step in building the fuse. It's easier to do without former F-4B and F-6B in the way and I can get a straight shot with the drill. Now everything is lined up correctly at 0 degrees! I did a dry set up first and when I had things organized - glued them up and drilled the holes. The bench is level as well so all is lined up to the crutch. It must be correct - unless there's something I missed. Anyway, on to the rest of the fuse formers tomorrow.

    Made a tail wheel per khodges instructions with the F-14B former made like Damifino's suggestion, which has the former cut from 1/8" ply and an angled insert of 1/4" ply to give the wheel the right angle backwards. A spring will give it a little "give".
    And now to bed!!

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    Jim, MAAC #5343
    WACO Brotherhood #56

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

    I finally heard from the RCU Administrator concerning the change to the number of posts per page. RCU feels that having more posts per page is more fair to the advertisors than having fewer posts per page. I didn't follow the logic of that one. Looks as if we need to catalog the posts by post # rather than by page #. I really hate that this happened.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    I went through my index and divided all the post #'s by 25 and revamped my page list!! I need to get a life!!
    Jim, MAAC #5343
    WACO Brotherhood #56

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

    Has everyone gone away? This thread normally has plenty of action. I know that damifino is having computer problems, but what about the rest of you? I'm working on covering the tail surfaces,
    I'm sort of out of the Waco mode, it's repaired now, but the weather is not much for flying, it's rained (FINALLY!!!) the last few days and the wind is up as the front goes through. I'm working on my Super Decathlon, finished up the engine and fuel tank installation today, still have igniton switch, and receiver/servo setups to do and I'll be ready to check balance and start engine break-in.

    My carpal tunnel has kind of gotten better lately; it isn't constant, but when it does hurt, it's worse than before. Either way, I've decided to live with it until I can't hold anything. Too much building to do

    I redesigned my workshop, and once the Super D is done, will reorganize it so I can put in my larger building table (4 x 7 feet) and will start my BirdDog. I've had the kit for three years now, tired of putting it off. It's 1/4 scale, 108 inch wing, Vaillancourt plans; ZDZ 50 for power. The next one after that will be the UPF-7. If this Fuji on the Decathlon works as good as it looks, I may consider it for the UPF. Note the Waco looking down from above in one of the pics.
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    Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Jim,

    Just checking, take no offence. Zero degrees along the bottom of the wing as the plans indicate, correct? You are not using a Robarts type incidence meter clamped to the wing leading and trailing edges, that will give you the wrong reading.
    John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
    AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Ken,

    Nice looking installation on the Fuji 32. I wish we had that kind of room in the WACO's.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.

  18. #4168
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Ken,
    Have you had time for a closer look of your UPF 7 kit? I am like a kid at Christmas when Santa Clause (UPS man) drops of my kits. Any way, I am curious as to what you think of the kit. I tired to reach IKON a few months back and we played phone tag a few times. Now that I know the kit is available again I will try to reach them to buy me one. Thanks,
    Rick, AMA 115812-WACO Brotherhood #75
    To discover something better....You must be willing to try something different

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Ikon N'wst,

    New owners.

    http://www.ikonnwst.com/
    Tony, AMA 120246
    WACO Brotherhood #71

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1

    Jim,

    Just checking, take no offence. Zero degrees along the bottom of the wing as the plans indicate, correct? You are not using a Robarts type incidence meter clamped to the wing leading and trailing edges, that will give you the wrong reading.
    Certainly no offence taken John. Your help has been invaluable! But where exactly on the plans is this instruction? I can't seem to find it (Old eyes!)?
    Jim, MAAC #5343
    WACO Brotherhood #56

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Jim,

    Look at the fuselage side view, lower wing cross section. Along the bottom edge it says "Bottom Wing 0Β° Incidence". Putting a straight edge along the wing bottom, I get equal measurements to the crutch which in turn gives a positive incidence thru the leading and trailing edge if measured with a Robarts style incidence meter. The instruction manual (long) does not address incidence until page 44 (of 45) and states that β€œ2. …The BOTTOM WING should be ZERO to the thrust line and the TOP WING could be from ZERO to TWO degrees positive to the BOTTOM WING.” Short manual does not address incidence at all. I am not quite that far along in my build, but that is how I interpret the plans. Bold high light is mine.

    The HAA Drawings by Paul Matt show the same incidence (0Β°) measured along the Wing bottom with a +/- Β½Β° tolerance.
    John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
    AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC

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    RE: WACO YMF

    Thanks John - now I see where you're coming from! You are quite correct - by advising not to measure incidence from the center section on the wing, which is what is shown in the fuse side view. That is because the trailing edge curves up to meet the top trailing edge in the center section. Laying a copy of rib W-5, for example, over the center section should give you the 0 degree measurement when taken from leading edge to trailing edge of W-5. I always build my wings first so I can perform this set up with the completed wing when I'm building the fuse. I take my measurements from the outer wing panels - near the aileron on a W-5. This is the true incidence of the wing. I found that I had a little adjustment to do on the wing saddles, but mainly things were pretty square. It also is very accurate in helping to line up wing tip heights -(Side to side measurement). I had some adjustment because I went with 2 wing dowels!
    This is my normal bi-plane set up so I am forced to do what has worked before. I will be setting up incidences with 0, -1, +1 degree on the Bottom, Top and Stab. The reason for the +1 degree on the stab instead of 2 degrees per plans, is that I've read a number of accounts that mention adding some up elevator for normal flight. By taking out 1 degree I hope to ease this situation. Balance points will also effect this attitude.

    More importantly - I can't seem to figure out how to achieve the scale wing tip lights. I have flashing strobes (not really strobes but brite whites) plus the colored lights. But together they make too big a bundle to even look close to scale when sitting out on the wing tip. I may just have to cheat and go with the flashing colored lights and a flashing white light under the fuse! Dang!!
    Jim, MAAC #5343
    WACO Brotherhood #56

  23. #4173
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Jim,

    Unless you are building an YMF Classic or lengthening the fuse to match an YMF Super by WACO Classic Aircraft, the 3 part light (P5) will be incorrect. The original used lights similar to those below and positioned as on the UBA (NC 13041), half way between tip and leading edge. The original lights were β€œconstant on” when activated (non-flashing/non-strobe).

    P1 UBA (NC 13041) Right side showing location of right wing tip light (left side similar. The Tail Light on the Rudder is partially hidden by Aileron Connecting Rod.
    P2 Right Light for UBF-2 (NC 2091K) similar to the type used on the YMF.
    P3 Tail Light for UBF-2 (NC 2091K) similar to the type used on the YMF.
    P4 Left Light on YKC (NC 3NX) in same location as Original YMF with fairing.
    P5 Right Light as used on 1987 YMF Classic (NC 14081) located at the extreme tip of the wing.
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    John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
    AMA 10955, WACO Brotherhood #26, AWC, NWC

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    RE: WACO YMF


    ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

    Nice looking installation on the Fuji 32. I wish we had that kind of room in the WACO's.
    Thanks, Bill. the top of the engine box is screwed in place instead of glued so I can remove it to access the fuel/vent lines without having to remove the tank. My fuel fill is on top of the box, couldn't figure out a better place for it, couldn't find pics of the scale location. I'll take some pics when complete. The old gent who built this plane was a master, it's very well built.

    What I like about the Fuji, more than the G-26, is the rear exhaust and long prop shaft. Prop flange to engine mount, it's almost identical length as the Zenoah, but the muffler juts out a little further. I think I can "bury" the cylinder and muffler back into the boot cowl on the UPF, allowing a cleaner area to mount a fully dimensioned (front and back) dummy engine. I want to build the UPF with a ring cowl, which doesn't allow much hiding of the real engine. That's one thing I have to determine before I start the build, can I adequately hide the engine in a dummy and ring cowl. If not, then I'm not sure which way I'll go. Probably shell out 4 grand for the Robart radial..........yeah, right

    Rick, I haven't done much more than inventory the parts just to make sure they're all there. The laser cutting looks good, nice clean edges, and the wood is great quality. Aaron (Ikon) told me that he gets his wood from Balsa USA.
    Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?

  25. #4175
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    RE: WACO YMF

    Ken,

    I was beginning to think that making a color photo in M.A.N. had gone to your head .

    That was a great photo. I originally was going to put my Fuji 32 in the WACO, but I would have had to butcher the entire nose of the Fuselage, and would not have had much of a boot cowl left. I like the power of this little motor, but I wish they had left the muffler on the side. Oh well, there are other planes that it will work well in. I'm thinking about a Giant Super Sportster.

    Not fishing here, but what did you think about the dummy engine that I did for the WACO? I hope it looks as good as I think it will in the cowl. I'm going to use blocks and screw the back plate of the dummy in from the back so it's removable.

    Bill, AMA 4720
    WACO Brotherhood #1
    Its easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesnt look like an airplane.


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