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WACO YMF

Old 10-29-2007, 08:27 PM
  #4176
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Gentlemen - FYI check out www.seetemp.com for many great goodies. Among their products is flexible aluminum tubing in 18" lengths in 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 1" and 1 1/4" ID diameters. Great for re-routing those pesky muffler pipes!!
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Old 10-29-2007, 09:57 PM
  #4177
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[quote]ORIGINAL: khodges

My carpal tunnel has kind of gotten better lately; it isn't constant, but when it does hurt, it's worse than before. Either way, I've decided to live with it until I can't hold anything. Too much building to do


Hey,
Sorry to hear about your carpal tunnel. I have rheumatoid arthritis and have been plagued with CT for a few years now. I wear a brace on my wrist every night and since I started my ct has become alot less problematic. I do not know if you have a Big 5 Sports where you live but I went there and purchased a top of the line wrist brace. It needs to be a good one because you need to wear it to bed from here on out.. Part of the ct syndrome is the way your wrist bends at night when you sleep. The hard brace that goes up into the palm in the device keeps your wrist in the proper angle while you sleep. After you wear the brace for a couple of weeks you will notice that your ct is much decreased and is less apt to rehurt if you strain your wrist.

The Brotherhood is not just for model building.

Good luck!

Ben
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Old 10-29-2007, 10:12 PM
  #4178
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Stickbuilder

Bill,

I think your dummy engine looks real good hope I can do the same when I get to that point. I did get one aileron finished this week end (thinking what did I get my self in to using aluminum ) lol. I have a lot of aluminum in the trash can getting that one aileron done.
O well who has more fun.
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Old 10-30-2007, 04:38 AM
  #4179
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Post pictures Dan.

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 10-30-2007, 06:49 AM
  #4180
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In my 1/3d Genesis YMF build I've found the need for lithoplate to do the forward cockpit areas and forward turtle deck. Problem was that none of the local print shops use lithoplate anymore since they've gone to computer controlled printing processes. I found what I wanted at a recycling facility though. I bought 20 large sheets of lithoplate in perfect condition for a couple of dollars.
Just a heads up for the brotherhood who may use this stuff. Mitch WB #100
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:12 AM
  #4181
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Hey Ken,

The ring cowls were certainly more popular on the UPF-7s at the Fly In, but there was an example of each of the 2 other style cowls, a bump cowl and a larger smooth cowl. If the ring doesn't work you can always put the other styles on, but it does limit you color schemes.[]
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:16 AM
  #4182
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1

Jim,

Unless you are building an YMF Classic
P5 Right Light as used on 1987 YMF Classic (NC 14081) located at the extreme tip of the wing.

Yes Bill, that's what I'm building. But I still may cheat if I can't achieve a reasonable looking facimile!
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Old 10-30-2007, 11:28 AM
  #4183
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Jim,

If you can't find smaller bulbs or LEDs to make your light, how about making the tip light using fiber optics. The actual lights (bulb or LED) could be hidden in a box in the wing or fuse and the fiber optics of the correct diameter could route the light out to the tip light assembly and the end(s) could act as the "bulbs/strobes". I don't know how much light loss there would be, but the tip light could be made smaller. Just a suggestion, haven't tried it my self yet.
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:19 PM
  #4184
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Hello all

Here are a few pics of what I have so far. These ailerons have really been a bear. Its been a lot of work but I have enjoyed it all so far.
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:43 PM
  #4185
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Well Dan - Kudos on your efforts. I had to give up - as you know - as my chosen aluminum was a litttle too heavy. I'm happy with the plastic but I would have prefered the alu. if I could have made it work. Carry on!!
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Old 10-30-2007, 02:11 PM
  #4186
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Has anyone done any business with Bob Dively Models? I have been trying for over a week to order my dummy engine, with no response from his end.
Scott
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Old 10-30-2007, 03:11 PM
  #4187
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Hi guys,
has anybody an idea, how to mount these tank plates on a ready covered wing? I think, it don´t works without cutting out the covering.
But in this area are only ribs, and the covering is under tension. My plan is, cut out, so that the covering covers the upper side of the ribs.
Than I will glue on the side of the rib narrow stripes of plywood, where I can screw the tank plates on?
In the drawing: black are the ribs, blue the plywood stripes and red is the tank plate.



Thanks
Bernie
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Old 10-30-2007, 04:57 PM
  #4188
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I have not seen any posts that talk about how you transport a 1/3d Genesis YMF to the field. I am looking at getting a new car, van or suv and would like suggestions that would carry this airplane.

I have a Jacob 275 in a Cessna 195 and love the sound of round engines. Thanks and I have enjoyed the thread.

Jim
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:15 PM
  #4189
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Jim:

I understand your transporting problem! I have a Toyota Camry, and the way I transport my Big Bingo is most of it is in the trunk. I built a small cradle that fits over the trunk lip I hold it in place with a small bumgee cord, I then strap the plane to the cradle. I put a ring into the trunk latch and use two bungees on either side to hjold the trunk lid down, with a stick in the middle to keep the trunk lid off of the plane. make sure to secure the stick to the cradle so it don't pop out and the lid comes down and damages the plane. Aniother alternative is I used to carry my 84" fleet on the roof of my car. The wigs of course shoould fit inside the car.

R/C John
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:21 PM
  #4190
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If it was not over 8' wide I would say a ski rack
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Old 10-30-2007, 06:27 PM
  #4191
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Bernie,

I forgot which YMF you are building, Pica, Pepino or Genisis. If it is the Pica with the vacuum formed tank cover, I would leave it off, it just does not look that good. Pepino and Genisis it is up to you. The pictures below are different views of three different Wacos, only one has tank covers.

P1 1987 YMF Classic (NC 14081) with hard tank covers
P2 1932 UBF-2 (NC 12002) tanks are under the fabric with just the fill caps and vents poking thru.
P3 Close up of the fill caps and vents on UBF-2 (NC 12002)
P4 1940 QCF (NC 12484) with the same treatment, getting ready for paint.
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:13 PM
  #4192
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: BigBoy99

Hi guys,
has anybody an idea, how to mount these tank plates on a ready covered wing? I think, it don´t works without cutting out the covering.
But in this area are only ribs, and the covering is under tension. My plan is, cut out, so that the covering covers the upper side of the ribs.
Than I will glue on the side of the rib narrow stripes of plywood, where I can screw the tank plates on?
In the drawing: black are the ribs, blue the plywood stripes and red is the tank plate.

Thanks
Bernie
Bernie, I think it will work like you have it drawn out. The edges of the tank plate have to have some support, and the bracing you show,plus the ribs, will do that. The other thing is, if it's too much hassle, just leave those outboard tanks off. They were an option, and not standard equipment, so all the Supers don't have them. Of course, the one you are modeling does, so to be accurate, I suppose, you need to do them.

Bill, I think your engine looks fine, I like the engine case color. The thing about all the dummies I've seen is they all have relatively narrow cylinders and look too long and skinny, where the Jake's jugs seem shorter and fatter. This makes these dummies look sort of "starved" where the Jake is stocky looking. Don't know what we can do about it, unless we scratch-build the whole thing, or Wms. Bros starts making a scale Jacobs.

I know this isn't really definitive for the Waco, but this is what I've been working on instead of posting lately. On my Super Decathlon cowl, there was a round hole just below the prop shaft hole, and I learned it is for a landing light. Coincidently, the hole is the exact size of an 'AA' size Mini MagLite reflector, which I have cannibalized a few for the reflectors. I needed, however, a curved lens for it to look right, and found an old pair of safety glasses with curved, polycarbonate lenses. I traced the size I needed, and cut out a piece of the lens, and attached it to the reflector with a thin strip of aluminum HVAC tape, which looks like the bezel of the landing light bulb. Then I made a backplate so I could mount it from inside the cowl. I included the tiny bulb just so it would have something like a filament inside.

Jim (Supercubman), these tiny bulbs might be the ticket for your wingtip lights, they're about the same as a grain of rice, you could use a Sharpie to color them and place them in a small scale housing on the wingtip, Careful soldering to some 22-24 ga wire and the would work great, they're pretty bright.

I also made a functional door latch for the Super D, it's not exactly scale, but is much better than no door handle and having to unscrew the door whenever needing to get to the switches, which will all be inside the cockpit. It's spring-loaded, so it doesn't vibrate open in flight. The last pics are of the fuel fill, with and without the cowl.
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:29 PM
  #4193
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Gentlemen, I purchased a 60" Platt YMF aircraft framed up at a swap meet recently. I didn't get any plans or tail feathers with it, which is a bad combination. I would like to purchase, borrow or beg a set of plans from someone. I will be happy to pay someone to copy them for me, or will copy them myself and return your origionals promptly. I think this a really neat thread to help all of us who enjoy these aircraft. Thanks for any help you can furnish.
John A. Pearce
260 4937860

PS I did get a set of instructions that I will be happy share if anyone needs them.
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Old 10-30-2007, 07:42 PM
  #4194
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1

Hey Ken,

The ring cowls were certainly more popular on the UPF-7s at the Fly In, but there was an example of each of the 2 other style cowls, a bump cowl and a larger smooth cowl. If the ring doesn't work you can always put the other styles on, but it does limit you color schemes.[]

John, I was planning to model my UPF after Waco Joe's plane, hence, the ring cowl. If it turns out to be un-doable, maybe I can talk Joe into putting a bump cowl on his plane.......problem solved
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:24 PM
  #4195
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John,

I don't have any plans for the 1/6 version, but someone in here will. You might be able to scale the parts from the web site that is set up for this forum. If you will check back a few pages you will find it. It should be available by going to: www.houseofmoy.com

I think that you can scale what you need from what is there.

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:26 PM
  #4196
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John,

Go to House of Moy http://www.houseofmoy.com/waco/ , it is the supplimental site for here. It has both sizes of plans in PDF form. Download the files and take them to a place that can print from files (about $30-35 at Kinko's). There is enough info on the plans to build the stabilizer. The revised short manual (17 page) and the original long manual (45 page) are also there.
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:06 PM
  #4197
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Ken,
Answer your pm and your e-mail!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bill, AMa 4720
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:09 PM
  #4198
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Thanks for the very fast response. I have downloaded the prints and will take them to Kinko's tomorrow.
John
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:15 PM
  #4199
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Ken,

I have noticed that the Ring Cowls are mounted on either one of the valve covers, some times on the intake, some times on the exhaust, both or alternating with the port side cylinders mounting on the exhaust and the starboard side mounted on the intake. I'll send you some photo's of Joe's plane and some others.
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:21 PM
  #4200
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John,

Please get Ken to answer his e-mail or his pm.

Bill, AMA 4720
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