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WACO YMF

Old 10-30-2007, 09:46 PM
  #4201
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Jplaneman

John, I should have a set of planes for the 60" pica Waco I will try to find them in the morning.
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Old 10-31-2007, 07:15 AM
  #4202
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jplaneman

John, I found my plans if you still need them there not in the best condition but are usable.

SuperCub man

Jim, I weighed my aileron it is 2.3 oz do you think that is ok? I hate to make three more if that's to heavy if so I will go your rout and use the plastic.
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Old 10-31-2007, 08:16 AM
  #4203
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: mango12

Has anyone done any business with Bob Dively Models? I have been trying for over a week to order my dummy engine, with no response from his end.
Scott
Have you tried http://buyaero.com/ I bought a bunch of Dively stuff from them a while back. They had trouble getting it from NJ where it came from originally. I heard at the LHS that they are not making the dummy radials anymore. Ed at buyareo should know. I have noticed a lot of places advertising products that the scratch/scale builders need that the retailer can no longer get. Why they don't delete the items, I don't know unless they are fishing for residual sales of other items. It's frustrating. I bought the Dively 10" 7 cylinder with back sides as well. It's only 22.5 % scale if wanting it for a Jacobs L-4.
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Old 10-31-2007, 09:11 AM
  #4204
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: mrdhud
SuperCub man
Jim, I weighed my aileron it is 2.3 oz do you think that is ok? I hate to make three more if that's to heavy if so I will go your rout and use the plastic.
My alu aileron weighed about 2.5oz and I believe the "plastic" one weight 1.5oz. The weight difference wasn't much, being about 4 oz. on the total aircraft weight. What I meant was that the aluminum material I used was too heavy or thick (heavy gauge) and I could not get it to stick. After a day or so it lifted and was too hard for me to handle and bend. It was only .015" but after all the trouble and with the easy use of the plastic, I opted for the "easy". I gave the "corrugation machine" to a buddy and wished him luck! Pressing in the rivets was easier on the plastic as well. I now notice the first two ailerons on which I used the 3M Spray 77 are coming a bit loose but the other two sprayed with the 3M Super 90 are remaining in place. When putting the plastic aileron side by side with the alu, I think the plastic looks better as it is more even and the corrugations are consistent. No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the alu to stay flat and consistent. Some will say the real aircraft aileron is not smooth and consistent, but scale to scale the bumps and twists I had were much too big. However there are only 27 plastic corrugations whereas the scale version has 34 (although by actual count, the plane I'm modeling has 33!!) It's a judgement call!
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Old 10-31-2007, 01:47 PM
  #4205
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What are your sources for Silver Solder? Do we need to go to 45% Silver content? What do you "Heavy Solderers" use? Our price up here is about $100.00 lb. and I'm not sure if it is the "right stuff" as all my knowledge has been gleaned through the Web. Any thots? I think a pound would last me a couple of life times!! I had some given to me a few years ago and it was a very stiff wire and flowed beautifully. The only other stuff I've found is 5% content and very soft. Don't think it will do.
Thanks
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Old 10-31-2007, 03:24 PM
  #4206
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Jim. try this..http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFS75&P=ML
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Old 10-31-2007, 06:18 PM
  #4207
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

John,

Please get Ken to answer his e-mail or his pm.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
O.K. Mom, I just haven't been on-line since you sent it. I didn't see any e-mail in my in box, but I got the PM.
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Old 10-31-2007, 07:12 PM
  #4208
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Bill, do you think we might could stuff one of those S5W's, along with the associated tubines, heat exchangers and such, into one of our planes? Only have to refuel every 30 years or so. I hear they're quite compact for their output
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Old 10-31-2007, 08:12 PM
  #4209
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Yeah, but the feed pumps would make it kinda hefty, and where would we put the condensate bay? I think I'll stick with this one. And yes, I know I had the engine rotated about 160 degrees, but gimme some slack, It is just dummied up to see how it fits.

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 10-31-2007, 09:57 PM
  #4210
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Hey guy's. I found the following business that sells metal skin finish for model aircraft. Check it out
http://www.flitemetal.com/.

Bart5495
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Old 11-01-2007, 01:05 PM
  #4211
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Default RE: WACO YMF

I wonder, and I didn't see on the ad., how much weight does it add?

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 11-01-2007, 01:50 PM
  #4212
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Bill, the dummy looks very good mounted in the cowl. Are you going to make the black baffles between the cylinders, like the full scale has? Of course, leave out the one between #4 & 5 to allow air to the G-26's cylinder, and probably the one at 5/6 to allow access to the choke. My engine seems to get enough air, it doesn't feel all that hot after a 15 minute flight session.

The "Flite Metal" isn't too much different from the HVAC aluminum tape, maybe not quite as soft, and the available pieces a bit wider. It still dents pretty easily, to prevent that it needs to be applied over a fairly hard underlayment (like a 'glassed surface). Shallow creases can be burnished out as long as the underlayment isn't damaged as well. I don't suppose it's any heavier than using 1/64 ply over balsa like I did, but it does have a nice effect when painted over and the paint chips, of looking like the bare metal underneath.

The ad says0.0022222 oz./sq. inch
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Old 11-01-2007, 03:16 PM
  #4213
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I probably will still use the 1/64th ply for the metal skin. Yes, I'm going to set the baffles up to direct the air over the cylinder and to give a plenum for the air to the carb. I noticed that you used part of the air horn on yours. Did you try it without the stub horn, or what?

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Old 11-01-2007, 09:05 PM
  #4214
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I have not heard anything yet from Fibertech. Has anyone else heard anything about the cowls....as to when they are coming?

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 11-01-2007, 09:06 PM
  #4215
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The entire black air horn wouldn't fit without cutting the cowl, so I trimmed it back, but left enough to help smooth airflow into the carb throat. It's always hard to tell what kind of eddys and swirls the air inside the cowl is doing, just wanted to make sure the engine gets as smooth an intake flow as possible. The screws that held the carb to the engine were also too long without the horn in place, and I chose to shorten the horn, instead of cutting the screws back.
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Old 11-01-2007, 09:27 PM
  #4216
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[/quote]
Jim (Supercubman), these tiny bulbs might be the ticket for your wingtip lights, they're about the same as a grain of rice, you could use a Sharpie to color them and place them in a small scale housing on the wingtip, Careful soldering to some 22-24 ga wire and the would work great, they're pretty bright.
[/quote]


Thanks Ken - I got some of those bulbs and it looks like they may be the ticket. They won't work in the flashing circuit as they draw too much current - or something - anyway they will work well as the colored lights and I can use the colored lens that the flashers come with for the color!. I then put one of the ultra brite bulbs in the circuit and they flashed OK so I guess I've now got my stobes and navigation lights. Now I just have to form some light aluminum for the cover.

John - the fiber optics sound like an interesting idea. Thanks for the input but the MagLite bulbs look like a solution at this point.
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Old 11-02-2007, 04:55 AM
  #4217
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Default RE: WACO YMF

I'll probably never use this engine for anything else, so I guess I'll just cut down the horn. Of course, I could always order a spare.

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 11-02-2007, 12:40 PM
  #4218
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Skylarkmk1 - A while back you posted a pix of the Century Gear for the 1/3 Scale Waco. Do you have any other views of this gear?
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Old 11-02-2007, 01:05 PM
  #4219
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Default RE: WACO YMF

Jim,

The pictures I obtained from thier web site Century Jet http://www.centuryjet.com/webstore/index.cfm and more can be found there along with pictures of the tail wheel. The site is a bit of a pain to navigate and their suggestion of using the search feature is a good one. Type in Waco to find the gear.
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Old 11-02-2007, 02:27 PM
  #4220
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1

The pictures below are different views of three different Wacos, only one has tank covers.
Just a note on fuel tanks. Most of the Wacos built in Troy OH (IOW, not the Waco Classic YMFs built in Michigan) originally had fabric over the fuel tanks. Many (including mine) have been modified to have a metal cover instead of the fabric. This makes removing and replacing the tanks much easier (hopefully not necessary though!!).

Joe
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Old 11-02-2007, 02:52 PM
  #4221
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Hey there Joe,

Thanks for the little history lesson on tank covers. Terry, the Waco restorer at CCA, does all of the planes he restores with the fabric cover unless it has a metal cover. If the planes history says it had fabric, restores it back to fabric. It is like most differences on the planes of the same model, many have been modified.

I guess it is getting time to put your waco up for the winter season up there in WI. Take care.
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Old 11-02-2007, 07:55 PM
  #4222
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I was just sent a notice that Stan's Fibertech is being offered for sale, as a turnkey business. This is a little disturbing, since I have pre-paid for an order. Let's just hope that someone from the Brotherhood can purchase the business. I think that a phone call is in order on Monday.

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 11-03-2007, 12:23 PM
  #4223
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I just sent Brad an e-mail asking about the business. I will be anxious awaiting his reply.

Bill, AMA 4720
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Old 11-03-2007, 12:44 PM
  #4224
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Stan's FiberTech is now under new ownership! We are beginning production and working out the kinks.

The new email address is n59c@verizon.net
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Old 11-03-2007, 03:49 PM
  #4225
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How about posting your address and phone number. Or please answer your e-mail and pm's.

Bill, AMA 4720
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