skylarkmk1

HarryJ,

Go to page 146, posts 3646 and 3650 (next page or 2 also) and all your memory will be found concerning Waco instrument panels. I have taken pictures (of different Waco models, mostly of a UBF) that match the detail sheet included in some of the Pica kits. Have fun

Stickbuilder

John,

The light that you show for NC 2091K (in photo #1), is the one that I replicated on last year's, Waco build (the one that Janelle confiscated for the living room). I want to use working lighting on this one. It is not going to represent one of the Classic versions, but will be the -5 variant of the original YMF. I am striving mightily to preserve the scale aspect of the model, even when it would be easier to use what is readily available. I will use the non-blinking anti-collision lights. If you get a chance, please, how about a photo of the retractable lamp on an original YMF? Or is it the same one as what you posted?

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Thanks Fred.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Bill,

I would like to help on that but the only pictures I have of a YMF are of NC 14081, a 1987 YMF Classic, S/N FC009. The closest FAA registered original, 1934 -1935 YMF to me is 3 states away in Ohio (about 500 miles). If an original YMF gets within camera distance, you can bet I will take pictures covering every inch of it. Maybe Andy Heins at the National Waco Club can find a photo in his archives. I haven’t found any pictures online that show landing lights on a YMF or UPF. The light I show on NC 2091K, a 1932 UBF-2 is the same on NC 155Y, another 1932 UBF-2 at CCA. Being in the same family, “F� models, it is possible that the Grimes retracting light was installed on a YMF or UMF but I have not found any supporting documentation. I have not found any documentation for leading edge lights either.

Tony V.

Does anyone have a closeup picture of the Waco logo. I would like to try to make some decals....

Stickbuilder

John,

I think that you are correct. I plan to use a retractable light on the left bottom wing, just in front of the forward interplane double shear mount. I don't know yet if I will make the light actually extend, and retract, but with all the other modifications that I have done (and will do) on this one, I will probably use a micro servo to actuate the light. I will probably slave the lamp to the horizontal stab actuator, so that when the horizontal stab is in the take-off/landing position, the lamp will extend and illuminate. I can do the illumination sequence with a micro switch.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Tony,

Will these do.

P1 Fuselage logo on ATO NC 663N.
P2 Fuselage logo on CTO NC 280W "Question Mark"
P3 Fuselage logo on JWM NX 8550

skylarkmk1

Bill,

I am headed to the airport in a few minutes and will try to get better pictures of the landing light with the location shown better. Don't know if I will be able to get a picture of it extended, but will try.

Stickbuilder

Back on one of the earlier pages, there is a good photo of the Waco logo, on a white background. I'll try to find it for you.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

I finally found the photo of the taillight that I did on Janelle's plane.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Tony V.

John.

Thank you I will try to use P-1

damifino

[link]http://brandsoftheworld.com/[/link]
You should be able to download it from this site. I think you would find other logos of interest here as well, like vintage oil and spark plug logos among others.

SuperCub Man

Tony - Also check out Page 120 - Post #3000 as well as the Barth site Page 1 post #16. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_49..._1/key_/tm.htm

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

Tony, I have this, but I haven't gotten it cleaned up for vector use yet. Maybe you can use it. Also a pic I found somewhere?.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Happy Veterans Day to all you Brothers who Served.

I spent my V.Day at the field, flew my Nosen plane a few times, and started breaking in the Fuji on my Decathlon. I think I'm gonna like this engine, very easy to start, but looks like it will take a bit to get it broke in well and get the mixture set. A bit too windy for the Waco today.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

The wind is your friend

On the 2nd day of competition with my Waco, wind was very strong. I almost ducked out but decided to continue. Much to my surprise, the plane didn't mind.

Thanks to all the Veterans, many thanks!

Stickbuilder

Glad you had a good time. How easily did the Fuji start? I'm still waiting to try mine. Heck, I'm waiting to try the G-26 as well.[:@] Thanks for the nice post there. We (old sailors and soldiers (Jarheads too)) do appreciate it.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Jay,

Looks like you got your puter fixed. Hope you are feeling better too.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

damifino

Thanks, I have had a bad case of strep throat and it'll be a few more days before the soreness is gone. Computer is fixed, a memory stick was bad.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

It might be my airplane's friend, but not mine. My Waco feels like a big weathervane. Not too bad in flight, but take-offs and landings get a bit exciting.

Bill, I primed the engine by closing the choke and turning the prop a dozen revs. Then I flipped on the ignition switch, hand flipped it twice, and it fired, ran about three seconds; I opened the choke, flipped it twice, and it was running smoothly at about 2500 rpm. Sure makes you a believer in electronic ignition.

The rest of the story..... (remember Paul Harvey?) Engine would run smoothly up to about 1/4 throttle, then start missing and sputtering, and wouldn't take more than 1/2 throttle at all. Sounded lean, but the needles haven't been touched at this point. I just let it run a while, and it got a tiny bit better, but still missed a lot. I richened both needles 1/4 turn, it took a bit more throttle, but still missing. Opened the needles another 1/4 turn, it would now take full throttle, but lots of exhaust smoke, and the revs didn't pick up like they should. I ran about 12 oz of fuel through it like this. Every time I restarted it after an adjustment, it would start on the first flip, but just wouldn't spin up past about 4000 (18-6 MA Classic prop, same as the G-26 turns on the Waco). I think this engine just needs extended breaking in. The manual says to start off at 40:1 with Fuji oil(synthetic), or 25:1 with other brands. I compromised, mixing Amsoil synthetic (designed for 100:1) at 32:1. You wouldn't believe all the black gunk that came out of the exhaust during that first tankful; looked like chocolate syrup. I'm sure that Fuji wants a rich mix to help the ring seat well, and I'll keep it rich for at least two more tanks, then I'm going to at least 50:1, maybe even 75:1. Fuji says you can run over 100:1 on their oil.

All that as opposed to the Zenoah. Takes a bit more to get it started (a couple more flips, or immediately with an electric starter), but it ran great from the start, ready to fly. I'm running mine now at 50:1 on the Amsoil, I could probably go a bit leaner on the mix ratio with this oil, I was using Klotz before.

Stickbuilder

Ken,

There is another school of thought on the heavy oil mixture. The misfiring sounds as if the oil content is extremely high, and is actually trying to put out the fire. You might be correct in the 32:1 mix using the Amsoil, but some of the oils out there will start building heavy carbon deposits fairly quickly, and you run the risk of coating the spark plug with a glaze that won't burn off. I won't run my engine with that heavy an oil content, but will run it gas rich for the first couple of tanks. Don't know if my way is better or worse, but from what I have been seeing on the Gas Engine forums for the Fuji's they are not reccomending that much oil. We both know that the Amsoil is the absolute finest 2 stroke oil that can be had, and I think that 40:1 is where I am going to start with mine.

By the way, I did a modification or 2 to both my G-26 and I will do one of them to the Fuji as well. I removed the choke plate from the carb, and soldered up the hole. This should give better fuel draw when preparing for a cold start. On the G-26, after removing the factory throttle arm, I found that the length of the shaft was marginal for using the nose wheel steering arm. I removed the shaft from the carb, and soldered an extension to the shaft using brass tubing. I made the extension to the correct length to act as a spacer to keep the shaft from having side play as it would if you removed the return spring. I used enough solder to fill the end of the tubing, to give it strength against crushing by the set screw. Now I have sufficient length to enable the new throttle arm to operate without a marginal clamping effect. I had to slightly relieve the phenolic carb spacer to gain clearence for the throttle arm ball mount stud. Everything sets up well now, and tonight I cut the holes in the cowl for the spark plug, wire and exhaust. I am going to have to use a small hammer on the bottom front of the side of the muffler to keep it from contacting the cowl. This should not comprimise the way the engine runs. I'm using the stock muffler instead of the Slimline unit that you are using.

On the subject of mufflers, has anyone come up with a wrap around muffler to put the muffler on the side of the BT-32-EI, and get it off the back of the engine yet? If that had been available, I might have even used that engine on this WACO. It would have been grossly overpowered, but that's what the left hand stick is for.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

HarryJ

My Feedback: (98)

Bill,
Try http://www.bissonmufflers.com/en/index.html in Canada. I'm sure they will have a muffler for the Fuji BT-32. They don't list it now but they have all othere Fuji engines listed and probobly haven't updated their site for a while. Give them a call, they are great to work with.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Out of curiosity, I started an indoor flying club 3 years back. It has turned into a great experience with many guys flying scale. At our last gathering there was a number of guys flying heavier than necessary biplanes and triplanes and the like. With the recently adopted respect as a builder, I was wondering, does anyone have the know how to shrink the fuse, wings and tail section of the available plans to say 40% and tile them so a guy can print them out on a regular computer printer and tape the sheets to come up with a scale 28 inch span profile Waco ?

Strictly for indoor use of course

I have no idea and unsuccessful attempts has left me stuck [:-]

Stickbuilder

Harry,

Thanks, but they don't even list the BT32 in their catalog. This engine has been out long enough for someone to have jumped on the bandwagon. I just haven't found one yet. I guess they think that because the exhaust is already on the rear, nothing is required. The extra length of the muffler and crankshaft extension makes this a difficult engine to use. That plus the oddball mounting system, means that only certain planes can or will be able to use this engine.

Ken,

I'm thinking about machining off the crankshaft extension to maybe within 1/8" of the rear case seal. Thinking about making a more symmetrical mount set as well. How do you think that this would work? Other than voiding all warranties by whacking the crank? I can't see any downside to doing this, since it would not affect the crank balance in any way, just lower the reciprocating mass by a little. I can set the crank in a lathe, and do the cut, and back cut the shaft to give it a slight beveled cut, so that it won't have a straight shoulder.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Hughes,

Go to Black Flight Models http://www.blackflight.com/ They have a tile print program that can be downloaded. I think Dumas has a 30-32" span stick and tissue YMF and check the AMA Plans Listing, there are a lot of Wacos plans that are in that wingspan range that you could use the outline to make foamies from. Cheap also, most smaller plans are less than $7