Stickbuilder

Mango,

To echo what John said, Please take the time to stop by the Judges table when they are finished with their Judging. The reason that I say when they are finished is that we only get 15 minutes per plane, and that time goes by very quickly. We are not snobs by any stretch of the imagination, we are just flat busy. We have 2 regular members on our team (Team Scale) and that is Rich Uravitch and myself. We have a color Judge at all times, we just don't have a regular Color member at present, so we use the Color Judge from another team who is not Judging at the same time as we. Hopefully, we will get a regular this next year. Color Judging is difficult at best, and nerve wracking at worst. If we goof, the entire contest suffers. One misjudgment can skew the entire event. And the Big Boys are not immune from making mistakes with their planes. The beautiful M-20 Porsche Mooney had a flaw in that the builder mistakenly reused the stencil for the N-number that was correct for the right side of the model, on the left side as well. His documentation showed the error, but he missed it. Otherwise it would have pointed at least 98. Instead he got a 97.75. Just out of winning. Things like that are tough to have to stomach. He did it, and there is no one else to blame. He took it like a man though, and you can bet it will be better than ever next year.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

damifino

Got my YMF cowling from Brad at Stan's Aerofibertech today. Nice piece! To echo what Stickbuilder said recently; a few weeks ago a correct 1/5 scale YMF cowling was not and had not been available for purchase. Thanks go out Stickbuilder for supplying me with an original PICA cowl and blisters and to Brad for producing the parts from my plug. I'm very happy with the results of the effort.

Stickbuilder

Jay,

This is one thing that no thanks are required for. I'm just happy that we now have a correct cowl that we can order for the first time. Using the cowl for the UMF and calling it a YMF is kind of like being named Smith, and passing yourself off as a Jones.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

msilvestro

Hello,
I would like to join the Waco brotherhood. I just placed my order for a Genesis Waco kit.

Regards
Mark

Stickbuilder

Mark,

Welcome to the Waco Brotherhood. If you will look back on page 180, you will find the current roster. You are Brother #81. Wow, a Genesis Kit and the Moki Radial. That's definately a committment. Best of luck, and we all look forward to watching the build. Be sure to post pictures as you go.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

aminiet

Got this silly question here I have been itching to ask. Of all the pictures I see at the National Waco Club, Which is my only source for pictures other than what is posted here, I don't see a pitot static tube.
So the question is, What does the Waco use for air speed indication?

Angel
B 58

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

There are two tubes on the left interplane strut, one of which is the static tube. It has the end of the tube plugged, and has tiny holes in the sides.

aminiet

Thank you Ken for the pictures. So these two tubes are allowed to hang loose? It seems to me like there is a lot of distance from the clamps to the end of the tubes.
I would think that air pressure during flight would cause the tubes to break off.

Angel
B 58

cheechukranch

Bill and John,

Thanks for the information and hospitality for which this thread is known. My plans have not yet arrived so I must assume that the folks at AMA will get it right and include the templates. The appendix site is great...thanks for that link, John.

I feel as though I must accomplish something on this project before requesting membership in the Brotherhood. Let me complete the task of cutting my own kit (this will be a first for me), then I'll hit Bill up for a number among the ranks of Wacophiles.

Cheechukranch was derived from 3 years in Thailand. My wife and I taught at a large international school and our house was always full of little gekos affectionately known as cheechuks. The ranch part...well that's just Montana. As for a short name...the real one works, Lewis.

Nice to meet you all.

Stickbuilder

Lewis,

No need to wait if you don't want to, actually building a model or full scale Waco is not a requirement. You just gotta love the things. Hope yo didn't bring any of the little Gekko's home with you. Those that I saw while in SEA, made noises that sounded like words that you don't use in polite company.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Angel,

The picture Ken posted is on a UPF-7 (NC 39748) and the same set up was used on a couple of other UPF-7s and a few cabin models as well at the AWC Fly In. Not all Wacos have both tubes, some only have one, and some have the tube(s) on the starboard forward strut. The style varies, with some having the tubes together, some split and go equally up and down like a pickle fork while others split and just the lower tube is curved (P1), The restoration mechanic at HARM seems to favor the style of tube shown in P1 as it is found on many of the Waco aircraft in the Museum. Note the 2 holes on the side of the lower tube.

P1 Pitot tube on UBF-2 NC 12002 and is typical of many on the Wacos in the HARM.
P1a Lower end of the Pitot Tubes on UBF-2 NC 12002 , lower strut point and flying wires (yes, the nut was tightened before it left the hanger, plane was being rigged at the time of the photos).
P2 Pitot tube on YMF Classic NC 14081, located in the leading edge of the upper wing in line with the strut attachment points.

aminiet

Thank you John for the informaton, Will I be safe by doing something similar to P1 on my UMF?



Like Mae West once said. So many Wacos, So little time.

skylarkmk1

Angel,

I would think so. Many aircraft that have been recovered have had the Pitot tubes replaced. On the HAA Drawings by Paul Matt on the fuselage side view, the Pitot tube shown is similar to P1 so I think you would be safe. As Bill has stated, make your plane to the documentation that you have.

For more photos of various Wacos, go to Airliners.Net http://www.airliners.net/search/? , type Waco (or model type) in as the Key Word and many photos will come up, usually with a way to contact the photographer and the location the photo was taken.

Stickbuilder

Well, Here is the weekend work to now. I got the cheek hatches made and the installation was very good. They require no tweaking to bolt on or off. The cowl alignment is done, and the holes for the gasser were minimal. The Vertical Stab is covered, and all the control tubes and rods are in place. I have not run the pull-pull for the rudder yet, but the guide tubes are in. I tossed it on the handy dandy postal scale....it's a tad porky. What you see here is 5 lb 4 oz. I'm gonna need to hustle to keep it under 17 pounds. The engine accounts for about 3 of the pounds. I sure am glad I put it on a diet when I started framing it up, otherwise I would probably finish up at close to 20 pounds.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

jagnweiner

My Feedback: (1)

HA! I've accomplished next to nothing and they still let me be a member. Speaking of which. . .

As you probably don't recall, I'm reviving an old 1/6 scale Waco that I rescued from the trash. When I last gave a progress update, I had covered the fuse with coverite and that was about it. Since that time, I have attached the control surfaces, done some painting, mounted the engine (and removed it) and installed some pushrods. Attached are a few pics. It's definitely stand-off scale. Stand way off.

I am now ready to cut the cowl. I have the Fiberglass Specialties cowl with the pairs of bumps (which I gather is not exactly scale). I am using a Saito .91 mounted upright, with the muffler pointing down. I believe I saw on here that the original radial would have a cylinder at 12 o'clock, so should the cowl be oriented so that a pair of bumps are at the top? If that's the case, I'll probably cut out the bumps at the top for the valve covers of the Saito.

Thanks,

skylarkmk1

Scott (jagnweiner),

If you are using a cowl with paired bumps, it is scale for a Continental powered Waco UMF or UPF-7. Position the cowl with the wide space at the top, 12 o'clock position and a narrow pair at 6 o'clock. The single row engines are mounted with the #1 cylinder at 12 o'clock.

The 3 view on the Pica plans and the HAA 3 view by Paul Matt show it this way and the one UPF-7 with a bump cowl I have pictures of has the cowl mounted with the wide space at top.

The Continental engine has the rocker covers wider apart on each cylinder than they are to the next cylinder. The spacing between rocker cover on Jacobs engines are equal on top and between cylinders.

Stickbuilder

Scott,

It's lookin good. I think that the Saito mounted straight up will fit within the cowl blisters. I don't think that anyone ever built a cowl for the YMF in 1/6th scale. Lord, we just now got the first one for the fifth scale.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

swampstik

greetings stikbuilder;
I'm looking for flying info on my waco that I bought last year in the bones.
It is a sterling kit SRE Kit FS 34. Very old ;stored in the attic I think.
I've got it ready to fly but the cowl is so short that much of the motor sticks out. I will make a new one from fiberglas. The wing span is 56 inches and the length is 46 inches;my power is a 61 RJL glo engine;very reliable.
I fly a stamp about the same size. and am very successful
I;m an intermediate flyer of 40 years or so.
Can you tell me from your experience with waco's what things to look for.
I will be bringing it out to the field Tuesday for a maiden.
Thanking you in advance >I remain
happy to fly;
Roger Damore

Stickbuilder

I just looked at the postal scale. Somehow the zero got moved. It's worse than I thought... 6 lbs 14 oz. I have not a clue how the zero got moved, but it did. Sorry about the misinformation.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Roger,

Welcome aboard. You seem to be the first with the old Sterling Waco. If I remember correctly those old Sterling kits had metal cowls (spun aluminum), is yours one of those? Don't worry too much about the cowl being short if it a smooth cowl. There is a precident for a short Cowl with UMF (N 2021N) having a Ring Cowl that can be seen on Airliners.net http://www.airliners.net/search/? . The YMF and UMF are the same plane with different engine. YMF has a Jocobs and the UMF has a Continental. Good luck on your maiden flight.

skylarkmk1

Bill,

Ouch [:@], a pound, 10 oz off. That Hurt (pun intended ). Check that scale again and let Janelle double check your readings. It may be time to forgo some of those details you want to add and save then for you next one. Blow the Pica plans up to 1/4 scale and you may be ok with the added detail.

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Hello all

Well I did manage to get a little work done this weekend in between honey dows and yard work. Can some one help me I'm not sure how to sand the edges down. Feels good making progress I'll start cutting parts out for the fuselage next week but I'm going to hold off building until the new landing gear is available or until some one can tell me how to frame up for it.

Bill, I will see you at Top Gun this year this is the one I look forward to every year. I am vary lucky to be so close to this event. It's kinda like New York City every one should see it at least one time in a life time.

Bill, your fuselage looks great Can I ask you how many Wacos have you built and what do you do with all of them?

Tony V.

Thought I would also show my weekends work .



John (skylark) what are the aileron coupler made from sq.tube, round, ect. ? Do you have any pictures....

jagnweiner

My Feedback: (1)

OK, I think I get it now. The WIDE spacing between bumps is the rockers on one cylinder. I was confused and thought a set of closely spaced bumps was one cylinder.

Bill, I'm going to have to do a little bit of cutting for the valve covers, but not much. The engine is just a hair too tall.

Just so I make sure I have it correct, I'm attaching a photo of the uncut cowl resting on the engine. Don't worry, it won't be white; it's just primed. Still has to have a few pits filled and then primed again and painted. I'd appreciate if someone could confirm that this orientation is correct.

Thanks,

skylarkmk1

Scott,

You got it correct.