WacoNut

That is a bit dissapointing but Oh Well,
I will look at making a cowl to pull a mold from. I am assuming a solid wood cowl will work for pulling a mold?? I can make a blister then get a buddy to vaccum form the rest for me then add them to the cowl before making the mold.
Anthony
btw: I have started building my 1/4 scale Waco and I am posting pics in the Scratch Build forum.

Stickbuilder

No, I talked to Jay the other evening, and he was having to work late to get some of the cars ready to go to Daytona. They are testing, and the hours for him are horrendous right now. He will be able to breathe pretty soon, but they play their Super Bowl first.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Anthony,

If you have access to a wood lathe to form the base cowl that would be a great start. I was going to use builders foam insulation and some plywood, but a solid wood plug would be stronger. Carve a master cowl bump, make a mold from it and make fourteen bumps, glue them to your base cowl, apply a little putty to fill any voids, seal and wax the completed plug. It’s got to shine. I would them make a 3 or 4 part mold to make the cowls from. Maybe the guys at Stan's might buy your mold from you. A couple of places to look for cowl making tips;

RCU Composite Forum;

Fiberglass How to: Plug to Mold to Parts by DocJones199

How To Make Mold For Cowl by GSAV8R

Other places;

CST http://www.cstsales.com/index.html Look in the Tutorials (top bar) for different tutorials in PDF format.

Steve Jones www.fiberglassmoldmanual.com sells a comprehensive manual about making molds, parts, making plugs, multiple piece molds for complex parts and more. Lots of good info in the manuals.

Fibretech Great Britain http://www.fibretechgb.co.uk/DefaultHome.htm has a tutorial for making a glass cowl from an ABS cowl under Working Tips.

Good luck

WacoNut

John,
I will dig into it when I have time.
Anthony

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I Have a friend who is very good at making cowl molds. I will ask him if he is still doing it.

Jim

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

cubnut sent you a pm

Garthwood

Jim/Ken.....................Some pictures of my progress on the 1/6 Waco landing gear. Not completed yet, shows the under fuselage cutout, parts and soldered brass plate. Just need to figure out how far it should protrude out the bottom of the fuselage. In your picture I noticed that your hardwood block has two wood screws. Is that piece of h/w glued in also ?.
Thanks again.

Charles.
Waco Brotherhood #87

skylarkmk1

All,

I have finally received my copy of the Pica Plans from the AMA. I have been working from the PDF Plans posted on the House of Moy (HoM) site and have noticed a few differences.

The date on the AMA version is 1990, HoM plans have no date.

HoM is 3 sheets - wings, fuselage w/rudder, tail (stab, elevator) with additional patterns for the front cockpit cover, door, access panels and fuselage sheeting templates, etc.

AMA is 2 sheets (not counting the templates stickbuilder provided) – wings, fuselage with stab and rudder. There is a separate small sheet with just the interplane struts. The location of the fuselage sheeting is shown (no templates).

Tail Wheel location has been relocated on the AMA version to the correct scale location at F-14B, HoM has the tail wheel on the rudder.

HoM plans have the templates for conversion to an enclosed rear cockpit and vertical fin/rudder and stab/elevator outlines for UPF, YPF and ZPF or cabin version (enclosed rear cockpit?).

AMA - Stringers are numbered in addition to being lettered.

There may be a few more minor differences. The 1/6th HoM plans are similar to the AMA plans on a smaller scale with out the tail wheel being relocated or stringers being numbered and the layout is slightly different (stab on wing sheet, etc).

My suggestion is to download a copy of the HoM plans as a reference to the AMA plans especially if planning on doing an enclosed rear cockpit.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Charles--Yes, it is glued in also. Since this block can get a pretty hard jolt if the spring bottoms out, I screwed it also to help relieve the stress on the glue joint. Those screws are long enough that they go all the way through the landing gear rail that the block is glued to

WacoNut

Jim,
I will be very interested in a cowl if your buddy is willing to take on the challenge. I will be more than willing to cough up the money for a cowl. I have been fixing some issues with the Pepino drawings and drawing up some scale fittings for the cabane and "N" strut attachment points. Looks like I will have to take the drawings to my brothers shop and have them wire EDM'd. Do you think a 4-40 bolt at each strut end will be strong enough or should I go with 6-32?
Anthony

Stickbuilder

If you find someone to pull a mold for you, you will need to make sure that the plug that you have made is as slick and smooth as what you would like to get as a finished cowl. We went through this with Stan's Fibertech, and we got some great products (thanks to damifino). It is not an easy task, but it can be done.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Anthony,
On something 1/4 scale I wouldn't use anything as small as a 2-56 on anything structual, period. That's just me, though. Of course, my stuff never ever falls apart in the air, and I know LOTS of guys whose stuff does!

If those are your only choices, go with the 4-40.

Bill, should I ever get involved in the practical application of readying a plug, anything I produce would make you plum proud of me. I used to do autobody work and I also used to custom-paint, and your surfaces have to be perfect for most of that. However, as long as I live in Maine and as long as it's winter, I can't really do this stuff because I can't use the necessary products indoors. I'm not in a huge rush anyway. I'm a gatherer, I gather stuff together until I'm ready for a build. I usually have enough in the wings to keep me busy in the meanwhile and just keep my eyes open as I go.

Jim

WacoNut

I would never think of using 2-56 for the attachments either,
I think 4-40 will suffice for the number of attachment points will spread the load.
Anthony

RICKSTUBBZ

Anthony,

I have not been able to confirm the strut bolt size on the full scales as of yet. However, in the pictures I've seen, they look to be 1/2". If they are indeed 1/2", in quarter scale, 6-32 would be about .010" over size were as 4-40 would be about .010" undersize. Give or take a couple thousandths. Either would be as accurate as the other, why not go with the stronger of the two???

skylarkmk1

Rick,

I did measure a few of the strut bolts on UBF-2 NC 2091K at the wing/strut and cabane/fuse connections and they were 1/4" [X(](the nut measured 7/16" which is correct for 1/4 x 20 bolts). I know it sound small, but other Wacos in the hanger had similar bolts. I was not able to get the thed count, not enough thread was exposed and the Waco Mechanic was not there that day.

I did measure the interplane bolts on the Pepino Waco I picked up for Mainer Jim and they are 4-40, but a bit loose were the strut connects to the wing. I think the strut end fitting could be drilled out or tapped for a 6-32 for a snugger fit but I will let Jim determine that when he gets the plane and has time to check it out. The clevises appear to be the Dubro RC 4-40 Threaded Rod Ends (part # 302).

RICKSTUBBZ

John,
Thanks, for that information. I woulkd have never guessed that a 1/4 bolt works for the strut connections on the full scale aircraft.
Anthony, that blows everything I wrote above right out of the water. Sounds like your idea with 4-40's will be the best option.

skylarkmk1

Rick,

I added a bit more to the above post, The 4-40 hardware does not look too far out of place, the "jam" nuts could be smaller (outside diameter/wrench size) on the clevises.

Also remember that the bolts on the full scale are aircraft grade bolts and are much stronger that the commonly found bolts (grade 3) at the local hardware store.

WacoNut

I did some close examinations of a full scale Stearman,
All the flying wire ends and the bolts for the strut attachment were fine threads ie: 1/4-28 etc: It was surprising how small some of the hardware was but like John said it is all aircraft grade hardware.
Anthony

flyer495th

I am asking this ? for WACO Brotherhood #90. He is presently putting in a OS TWIN 160 and would like to know. If he will be having any fuel problems. The tank is higher than the carb. If so, what have others done to correct the problem. Thanks for your inputs.

Garthwood

I was not sure if I should glue it in case it needed to be removed, I did glue it though, but first I mounted the spring, bolt and the L Angle on a square piece of hardwood first with a screw in the bottom of the aluminum L angle at the base. There's not that much room to work on the 1/6Th unless I remove more of the bottom sheeting. Instead I glued around the L angle square blocks of HW . There's no way the L angle going to move up or sideways. I did this in case I need to remove the L aluminum angle, I can just reach for that one screw and it will come off. I'll send you some pictures when I get some taken. I tested the landing gear wire by spreading the wire, wow........it does work. That spring idea is just great. The landing gear gives under the weight and yet the spring does the job in keeping the wire landing gear under control while softening the impact. Thank you Jim and Ken for such a great idea.

Charles
#87

RICKSTUBBZ

John, Thanks for the tip[8D]

I received my package from Bobsairdoc today. I agree, the UPF7 three views are worth the price of admission. I do beleive a fellow could scratch build a plane entirely with that three view. Have read two of the ten articles on the catalog disk. For those like me (wannabe scale builder)[sm=49_49.gif], it is good information. I picked up the AcroSport three views as well. I have some more number crunching to do...But, I think I will bash the BalsaUSA EAA into an AcroSport. Thanks to all you guys on this thread--What was going to be a sport radio control airplane is starting to progress into a semiscale aircraft.

Stickbuilder

The best fix for this is to use the Cline regulator, or the Perry oscillating pump. Then you can mount the tank 10 feet above the carb, and not have any problems. The cheap fix is to make and install a gag valve so that when you cut the throttle and trim to full off, you pinch the inlet line to the carb. It is not fool proof, but seems to work okay (kinda-sorta). The regulator is not that expensive, nor is the Perry pump, and they are the best way to go. I've used the 160 twin in these planes for years.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

SuperCub Man

I feel the same way. I just noticed on the BUSA product list that they have some "Magic Primer"! It is formulated for use on all iron on fabric coverings. It will allow any kind of paint to be used on the model. #454 - $19.95 qt. Should cover 1/3 scale model
Do you or anyone know of this product and have used it? How did it work? Are there subs for it? What paint do you normally use on Solartex?
A lot of questions I know! I normally use Krylon and with nitro models over-coat with water based polyurethane but with gas models I just leave it. I'm wondering, (other than coverall and dope Bill!) what others use but just on Solartex! Do you use any kind of primer? I never have! Always looking to try something new!

Jacque

My Feedback: (22)

I have used solar tex for years , the only thing I use on the air frame is the cheapist hair spray I can find ,It really works. Jerry Nelson from Nelson hobbies passed that on to me.
The paint I use is Nelson water based paint or if I change color I use pray cans of Krylon with there primer first fom home depot.
JAcque

Botherhood #27

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Jim, I like regular latex house paint on Solartex. The colors available become infinite, just pick out a swatch and have it custom blended. I clearcoat for gas with any good automotive clear, and use Top Flite LustreKote clear if I use glow power. You don't have to prime the Solartex, at least I don't; saves weight, and I haven't had any problems with adhesion. I've only brushed it on (WWI finish) so I use it unthinned, but I suppose it can be suitably thinned for airbrush or other power spray........BRAIN FLASH (ouch)....... Krylon now has spray latex, haven't tried it yet, though.

Well, my super-caffeinated jumbo Starbuck's mocha cappuchino latte is starting to kick in, gonna head to the shop and churn up some balsadust, Ca my fingers together, and try to get this BirdDawg in the hunt.