khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I agree, Don. Even though the internal framework is a lot different from the Pica kit, it is well engineered and lends itself well to mods. The one big thing I wish Cox had followed is the flat center section of the top wing. Had they done that, the ARF could be made very scale, right up there with the kit. It was more than I wanted to re-do, but is immediately a tell-tale that mine is the ARF.

Hughes, That is a pretty bird. I like the tail trim, and the whole thing makes a nice package.

adamiani

My Feedback: (2)

Hi, what kind or brand of paint did you use? looks nice!

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

This was a huge learning curve for me, my first scratch built plane. Since I was in it for the long haul, I spent the money and purchased Klass Kote paint. It is an Epoxy paint that it is just excellent. I have since painted a few cowls and wheel pants with Klass Kote and the results have all been good.

Jim Henley

H-500,
Didn't you use Super Coverite on your build? Did you dope the covering or just shoot the Klass Kote onto the Coverite?
I still am mad at myself for not trying the Klass Kote

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Hi Jim,
Yes, Supercoverite was used then I sprayed Klass Kote's gray high solids primer. Sanded for awhile and went to work on the rivets and overlapped panel lines etc, then sprayed the orange. Now I'm hooked

RICKSTUBBZ

Hughes500E,

I have to say you did a fine job on your WACO! Very nice looking airplane.

RICKSTUBBZ

Here is a tip to add to the list of things that work,

The other day I was rebuilding on of my old “ringed” engines and discovered when I pickled it some years ago, I did not do such a good job. Found that the piston ring was seized to the piston.

After my normal handy chemicals of choice (carburetor cleaner, lacquer thinner, and the likes) did not work, I remembered I had some “CLR”. Anyway, I soaked the piston assemble in the “CLR” for 48 hours (did not bother to check it until then) and presto the ring was free as it should be.

old git

Hi Rick,

I'm still collecting "solutions" to problems, CLR sound useful but what is it in British English please?

Thanks in advance,




old git - - - - -aka John L.

WACO Brotherhood No. 14.

Stickbuilder

John L.,

Not to take away from Rick, but it is a chemical that is sold in hardware stores and Big Box stores here. The CLR stands for Calcium/Lime/Rust.

It does work, in fact I use it to remove the thermally adhered calcium that gets on my Boat's outdrive. An application and a light brushing leaves the painted surface in an as new condition. It will also dissolve rust in the same manner. It does this without harming the substrate. I suspect a mild acid formulae. Or a mild Caustic.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RICKSTUBBZ

Old Git,
Bill pretty much covered it. The stuff is advertised for things such as cleaning shower heads and sink faucets among other things.

Here is a picture of a WACO Classic Aircraft from a different angle than we usually see. Provides some detail of the front windscreen and top of the wing. When I upload it to here the pixel count (detail) is drastically reduced. Here is a link to the higher res picture. http://www.popularaviation.com/PhotoGallery/3319.jpg .

This same site and this link is where I found the link below http://www.popularaviation.com/Waco/

Also here is a link to some more pictures. They are not much good for scale detail but are great for viewing pleasure. http://www.reesphotos.com/WACO2007/waco2007.htm

old git

Thanks,

Now I get it, we have a product here called "Cillit Bang" for those purposes. There may be others but this does work.

I have used Caustic Soda to remove carbon and clean up ring grooves on M/Cycle engines but it also removes the Aluminium very rapidly.

We used a very quick immersion followed by washing off with clear water. Use with caution if you must!




old git - - - - -aka John L.

WACO Brotherhood No. 14.

BigBoy99

Rick,

thank you for this great pics, I should have them sooner for my Barth Waco [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]



Bernie

adamiani

My Feedback: (2)

Waco 1/6 in the paint shop.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Alex, you better not get any paint on your wife's washer or dryer. She might not like them orange as well as we like it on your WACO. That's going to look great.

I painted a plane in my driveway a couple of years ago, bright yellow. Imagine my surprise [X(] when my wife pointed out a fine yellow dust on the hood of her car (which is burgundy). I was fifteen feet away when I was painting. Luckily, nothing permanent.

WacoNut

Thats why I like sprayin latex, all the overspray dries before it even touches the ground and you clean up with soap and water. Not to mention no bad smell either. I also like only paying $15 for a quart of custom mixed paint
Anthony

SuperCub Man

I don't know what's happened to the @#$$%(*^%$ numbering of the pages in this thread, but they all seem to be out 1 page or so! I can't go throught sorting this out again but I sure wish the #$$%&%$# thread manager would leave the $%%$ thing alone!! I was about to send in my latest update, when I noticed this. Very frustrating. Oh well, I know where everything is and if anyone else is using the Index, they can cast about a few pages before and after the reference and they'll find what they're looking for - I hope!

Just got a dummy engine from Aerotech and was looking for khodge's postings on his installation when I found the page jog. They're good looking castings and it will be fun to scale them up! Still working on the wiring for the flying lights and strobes but nearly ready to cover. Darn flu put me out for a month - lousy Canadian Winters!!

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

jim henley; sent you a pm

RICKSTUBBZ

Anthony (CubNut), Jim (SuperCubMan), or anyone else that has used latex for paint.

I am seriously considering using/trying latex for paint. Makes for an easy match to the “solartex”.

My question is what to use as the clear coat. I would be needing a clear coat that is “glow fuel” proof, and makes her shine.

I believe Jim has said to use water base urethane. However I am not familiar enough with this stuff to know what to buy. Any advise is appreciated.

SuperCub Man

I have used Benjamin Moores - WB Polyeurethaane for years. It is much thicker that similar brands and I have found it sticks to everything I have applied it to. It is fuel proof. It can be brushed on out of the can and flattens beautifully leaving no brush marks. It doesn't need to be applied very thick . I also use it to apply light (1/2 or 3/4 oz.) fiberglass cloth to things like my floats, both 1/4 scale and smaller ratrher than messy epoxy or FG resin. I find it really makes life easy. Since it is available in high gloss or semi gloss you can effect the finish you like. I often use semi gloss to cut down on the high sheen some planes don't seem to suit - like my Otter. I also use it to fill balsa grain etc. Use a synthetic bristle brush to apply as regular squirrel or sable hair or foam brushes sometimes cause it to bubble - for some reason!

WacoNut

Rick,
I buy gloss clear from Nelson's Hobby Specialties, make sure you use the cross linker it makes it fuel proof. The clear is a little on the expensive side but a little goes a long ways. I payed approx $20 for a quart but that sprayed my 1/4 scale Cub and a .40 size Aircoupe. You will need to this the clear at least 30% to spray.
Later!!
Anthony

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Rick, I used Top Flite LusterKote Clear on my last latex paint job. I know there are many who don't like the stuff, but I've had good results from it. It works well over both Solartex and latex, and is the most fuelPROOF clearcoat I know of. It's an acrylic lacquer, so you have to be careful using it with other paints, but latex seems compatible with lots of stuff. I clearcoated my L-4 with oil base polyurethane, over a combination of LusterKote Dove Gray and a Valspar enamel. The glow exhaust eventually wore away the poly over the LusterKote, but the LusterKote has not been touched by the glow fuel (this is underneath the plane, about 3-4 inches from the exhaust, where it gets the heaviest flow). there may certainly be other clearcoats that work well, though, I just don't know them.


On a separate note, I received some small piano hinges today, from a place called Lee Valley Tools. I ordered them last Saturday, got them today (6 days). I don't like to beat on our otherwise great R/C suppliers, but I had ordered basically the same thing from Nelson Hobbies, and after a month and a week, had still not received anything. I cancelled the order and went with these. Note the sizes; the smallest is about 3/8" (advertised as 9mm) wide, the largest is 5/8" wide. the individual fingers on all of these is 5mm. I ordered them to use on my BirdDog, and they are VERY nice. Notice that the holes on three of them are very small; they are designed for escutcheon pins (small brads) where the larger hole takes a #2 screw.

Stickbuilder

Ken,

Would you be so kind as to post Lee Valley's web address? Them's the hinges that I want.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

WacoNut

Yep, Those are on the must have list for me also!!!
Anthony

skylarkmk1

All,

The Lee Valley link was posted in post 5722, page 229. How to find them is in post 5724

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

They have a pretty large site, lots of pages. Let's try this and see how close we get:

www.leevalley.com


This takes you to the home page. At the top, under "Lee Valley & Veritas", click on the "hardware" tab

Look at the middle column in hardware, click on "hinges"

Find "piano hinges"

Find "Brass plate hinges"

Top four are the small ones.