WACO YMF
#6601
RE: WACO YMF
Good news: I sent an email to J-Tec asking about the postage costs. This is their reply:
"Unfortunately the shopping cart area of our website does not allow us
to specify what products would be subject to the $30 shipping charge.
All orders are reviewed by us before they are processed to make sure that the order is correct and the shipping is appropriate.
If you would like to order the 1/6 color instrument kit you can do so right off of our site and when it asks the shipping method just select the default shipping and we will adjust it to the $3.00 is what first class shipping should cost.
Sorry for the confusion."
So I'm placing an order right away.
"Unfortunately the shopping cart area of our website does not allow us
to specify what products would be subject to the $30 shipping charge.
All orders are reviewed by us before they are processed to make sure that the order is correct and the shipping is appropriate.
If you would like to order the 1/6 color instrument kit you can do so right off of our site and when it asks the shipping method just select the default shipping and we will adjust it to the $3.00 is what first class shipping should cost.
Sorry for the confusion."
So I'm placing an order right away.
#6603
Senior Member
RE: WACO YMF
Looking good, kurrikan!
I started rebuilding the wing this evening. It's going to be an easy build. I cut the ribs on my bandsaw and laid out some of the spars on the plans. The first set of ribs are glued to the spars and drying. I also found some cracked/broken stringers and formers in the fuselage. The wings are a 'normal' weight, but that fuselage is a brick. I've never seen a design with so much hardwood in the front. It's like a tank! [X(]
I started rebuilding the wing this evening. It's going to be an easy build. I cut the ribs on my bandsaw and laid out some of the spars on the plans. The first set of ribs are glued to the spars and drying. I also found some cracked/broken stringers and formers in the fuselage. The wings are a 'normal' weight, but that fuselage is a brick. I've never seen a design with so much hardwood in the front. It's like a tank! [X(]
#6604
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
Nate,
If you will look back through the thread, you will find where a lot of the heavy stuff was eliminated. I trimmed quite a bit off the fuselage weight when I built the current fuselage. You must remember, when the Pica Waco was designed, we didn't have the adhesives available that we have today, nor did we have carbon fiber, and lots of other things that build strength without adding weight.
The forward section of a model airplane is only there to tie the engine to the flying surfaces, and not to support a Big Block Chevy engine.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
If you will look back through the thread, you will find where a lot of the heavy stuff was eliminated. I trimmed quite a bit off the fuselage weight when I built the current fuselage. You must remember, when the Pica Waco was designed, we didn't have the adhesives available that we have today, nor did we have carbon fiber, and lots of other things that build strength without adding weight.
The forward section of a model airplane is only there to tie the engine to the flying surfaces, and not to support a Big Block Chevy engine.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
#6606
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
I got a very nice couple of e-mails from Old Git (John Livingston) over the last couple of days. Everyone should take time out to send him a pm and hope for a full recovery.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
#6607
My Feedback: (48)
RE: WACO YMF
Stupid alert
I hope I’m the only idiot out there but just incase I’m not this is what I did. I must have missed the part that tells you to drill and install blind nut for engine. I had my fuselage all but final sanding to do and a friend stops by and asked me how I planed to mount the engine I’m using a G 26 and I didn’t drill the fire wall for the blind nuts[:@][:@]
Well I’ll just say drill your holes while you can still get to the back of the fire wall.
What does it mean when you keep saying (I wont make that mistake on the next one)
Don’t forget to get your T Shirt order in with Bill these are hi quality shirts well worth the cost.
I hope I’m the only idiot out there but just incase I’m not this is what I did. I must have missed the part that tells you to drill and install blind nut for engine. I had my fuselage all but final sanding to do and a friend stops by and asked me how I planed to mount the engine I’m using a G 26 and I didn’t drill the fire wall for the blind nuts[:@][:@]
Well I’ll just say drill your holes while you can still get to the back of the fire wall.
What does it mean when you keep saying (I wont make that mistake on the next one)
Don’t forget to get your T Shirt order in with Bill these are hi quality shirts well worth the cost.
#6608
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
It means that you already are planning for your next one. Just make the cut outs as per scale in the cheeks of the boot cowl, and you can fit the blind nuts from the side. [8D][8D]
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
#6609
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RE: WACO YMF
Question, some posts back the discussion talks about checking the incidence on the wing. Specifically, that Pica used the bottom of the wing to determine zero incidence. So when I attached the incidence guage to the leading and trailing edges, did that give the wrong reading? Should I have attached a flat piece of sheet balsa to the bottom of the wing that extended past the LE and TE and use that measument to set the incidence? I have obtained another partiialy built WACO and I want to make sure that the wing incidence is set up correctly. Also if you have not allready figured it out, the WACO that Nathan is rebuilding is (was) the red one I had. So we both need to know the correct set up to make sure the incidence is correct.
#6610
RE: WACO YMF
Jim,
I seem to have been reading the plans wrong, so disregard measuring "at the bottom of the wing". I will defer to Bill on setting the incidence since he has much more experience with this plane. Refer to pages 41 thru 43 of the Long Manual (45 page) found on the House of Moy http://www.houseofmoy.com/waco/ . The plans/manual show the use of an alignment jig (you make it yourself from the plans, fuselage side view) used to set the Top Wing. All incidence measurements are reference to the crutch. Use your incidence meter on the outer sections of the wing to get aligned, the center sections have a reflexed trailing edge area that will give incorrect readings on the meter.
The measurements I find on the plans/manual are;
Crutch = 0°
Top Wing = 0°
Bottom Wing = 0°
Stabilizer = +2°
I seem to have been reading the plans wrong, so disregard measuring "at the bottom of the wing". I will defer to Bill on setting the incidence since he has much more experience with this plane. Refer to pages 41 thru 43 of the Long Manual (45 page) found on the House of Moy http://www.houseofmoy.com/waco/ . The plans/manual show the use of an alignment jig (you make it yourself from the plans, fuselage side view) used to set the Top Wing. All incidence measurements are reference to the crutch. Use your incidence meter on the outer sections of the wing to get aligned, the center sections have a reflexed trailing edge area that will give incorrect readings on the meter.
The measurements I find on the plans/manual are;
Crutch = 0°
Top Wing = 0°
Bottom Wing = 0°
Stabilizer = +2°
#6611
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: Jim Henley
Question, some posts back the discussion talks about checking the incidence on the wing. Specifically, that Pica used the bottom of the wing to determine zero incidence. So when I attached the incidence guage to the leading and trailing edges, did that give the wrong reading? Should I have attached a flat piece of sheet balsa to the bottom of the wing that extended past the LE and TE and use that measument to set the incidence? I have obtained another partiialy built WACO and I want to make sure that the wing incidence is set up correctly. Also if you have not allready figured it out, the WACO that Nathan is rebuilding is (was) the red one I had. So we both need to know the correct set up to make sure the incidence is correct.
Question, some posts back the discussion talks about checking the incidence on the wing. Specifically, that Pica used the bottom of the wing to determine zero incidence. So when I attached the incidence guage to the leading and trailing edges, did that give the wrong reading? Should I have attached a flat piece of sheet balsa to the bottom of the wing that extended past the LE and TE and use that measument to set the incidence? I have obtained another partiialy built WACO and I want to make sure that the wing incidence is set up correctly. Also if you have not allready figured it out, the WACO that Nathan is rebuilding is (was) the red one I had. So we both need to know the correct set up to make sure the incidence is correct.
If you use the template that is on the plan to set the top wing at the cabane area, then reference the crutch to level (use a torpedo level on the crutch). Then set the bottom wing (and as John said, you have to get outboard the center section) the same as the top wing. Make sure that you check the incidence all the way to the tips, since you can easily pull a twist into the wing panels by incorrectly making or adjusting the Interplane struts. Square the wings to the rudder post and then set the horizontal stabilizer at positive 2 degrees (again to the crutch). That means that the leading edge of the horizontal stab will be up 2 degrees. Even on mine with the adjustable stabilizer, I will to the first flights with the stab at +2. I will then begin to make adjustments in flight (but you can bet that these movements will be really small), but I will still reset the stab to +2 for landing, unless the different setting proves to make the plane more manageable. These tests will be done at altitude. I want to get the plane to the point where it flies tail high, instead of having droopy drawers at low speed. I may find that I have wasted a lot of time for nothing. You can bet that Pica set the model up at the best AVERAGE setting for all around flying characteristics.
The main thing here is to make sure that the wings are constant incidental to the crutch of the plane, and that you don't accidentially end up with a set of wing panels that is pulled out of true with the rest of the airframe. IF everything is straight and true, you will have a great flying model. If the wing panels are skewed, then all bets are off.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
#6612
Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
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RE: WACO YMF
Hi all
Thought you all would like to see how we build the 33% Waco struts. here are the Struts that I helped design for the kits. I used aluminum and hand cut them from a paper pattern. the strut wood material comes from Balsa USA. They have three sizes of pre-made struts I use the largest size. The other two sizes would work for the 1/4 and 1/5 scale.
Trlamb
US builder for AMR-rc
Thought you all would like to see how we build the 33% Waco struts. here are the Struts that I helped design for the kits. I used aluminum and hand cut them from a paper pattern. the strut wood material comes from Balsa USA. They have three sizes of pre-made struts I use the largest size. The other two sizes would work for the 1/4 and 1/5 scale.
Trlamb
US builder for AMR-rc
#6613
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
Terry,
Great information. Good talking to you the other evening. I'm still hopeful, but am loosing faith rapidly.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
Great information. Good talking to you the other evening. I'm still hopeful, but am loosing faith rapidly.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
#6615
Thread Starter
RE: WACO YMF
Dan,
I'm not sure that you want to learn to do cloth and dope on your first plans build. I think that one of the Super Coverite, or 21st Century products might suit your needs better. They are a little more forgiving and finish lighter than Koverall and dope.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
I'm not sure that you want to learn to do cloth and dope on your first plans build. I think that one of the Super Coverite, or 21st Century products might suit your needs better. They are a little more forgiving and finish lighter than Koverall and dope.
Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
#6617
My Feedback: (48)
RE: WACO YMF
SuperCubman
Jim I went back to your post # 6469 and see you used solartex to cover your masterpiece. I’m thinking about using the same. Did you like this covering and would you use it again? What is the purpose for using silver over white and how many roll did it take? I’m just full of questions tonight so here’s a few more. Where did you get the #0 screws and the windshield material you used? If im not pushing my luck I have one more question what size piano hinge did you use on your ailerons? Thanks Jim can’t what to see your Waco with the blue trim your getting pretty close to the madden flight.
Jim I went back to your post # 6469 and see you used solartex to cover your masterpiece. I’m thinking about using the same. Did you like this covering and would you use it again? What is the purpose for using silver over white and how many roll did it take? I’m just full of questions tonight so here’s a few more. Where did you get the #0 screws and the windshield material you used? If im not pushing my luck I have one more question what size piano hinge did you use on your ailerons? Thanks Jim can’t what to see your Waco with the blue trim your getting pretty close to the madden flight.
#6618
My Feedback: (1)
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: mrdhud
Where did you get the #0 screws and the windshield material you used? ..................what size piano hinge did you use on your ailerons?
Where did you get the #0 screws and the windshield material you used? ..................what size piano hinge did you use on your ailerons?
When you go to order your piano hinge material, look at http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...86&cat=3.41241 . They have small piano hinge in four different flange configurations. The individual hinge finger sizes are the same size as the large (1/4 scale) DuBro pinned flat hinges. Their prices are very reasonable, and I got much faster service than with Nelson Hobbies. I'm using the brass hinge on my BirdDog, and I like that the hinge finger is offset rather than centered on the flange. This means the hinge is flat on one side, when laid open.
Ignore the pics, they're not what I thought. (I'm getting to the point I can't see the thumbnails on my picture files...damn shame.)
#6619
RE: WACO YMF
Ken,
In looking at the Lee Valley hinges, it appears that the ones you are using are the “Brass Plate Piano Hinges, Items A, B, C”. Are these the correct items?
It does appear that the pins could be pulled and the leaves re-assembled to have hinges with different size leaves on each side which could be useful for mounting hatches. The wider leave attaches to the fuselage, the narrow leave to the hatch.
In looking at the Lee Valley hinges, it appears that the ones you are using are the “Brass Plate Piano Hinges, Items A, B, C”. Are these the correct items?
It does appear that the pins could be pulled and the leaves re-assembled to have hinges with different size leaves on each side which could be useful for mounting hatches. The wider leave attaches to the fuselage, the narrow leave to the hatch.
#6620
My Feedback: (1)
RE: WACO YMF
ORIGINAL: skylarkmk1
Ken,
In looking at the Lee Valley hinges, it appears that the ones you are using are the “Brass Plate Piano Hinges, Items A, B, C”. Are these the correct items?
It does appear that the pins could be pulled and the leaves re-assembled to have hinges with different size leaves on each side which could be useful for mounting hatches. The wider leave attaches to the fuselage, the narrow leave to the hatch.
Ken,
In looking at the Lee Valley hinges, it appears that the ones you are using are the “Brass Plate Piano Hinges, Items A, B, C”. Are these the correct items?
It does appear that the pins could be pulled and the leaves re-assembled to have hinges with different size leaves on each side which could be useful for mounting hatches. The wider leave attaches to the fuselage, the narrow leave to the hatch.
The flange width on "B" and "D" are the same, and you could conceivably pull the hingepin and 'mix & match' different flange widths, as all the fingers are the same size.
I used the narrowest hinge on the cowling of my L-19, and have cut pieces of the widest hinge to use as aileron hinges. I wish I'd found these when hinging my WACO.
Below is the pic I was looking for in my last post, to show comparative sizes.
#6621
RE: WACO YMF
I am assuming these are easy to cut to length? I am going to be ordering some for the hinging on my Waco. The smaller size for my hatches and the larger for the aileron's.
Anthony
Anthony
#6622
RE: WACO YMF
Anthony,
You can use a fine tooth hacksaw and file, tin snips or a Dremel tool with the cut off wheel (best choice). The hack saw leaves the cut a bit rough and needs to be cleaned up with a file, tin snips may put a slight bend in the leaves that you can straighten with pliers. The Dremel will cut it clean but it gets hot. You can clean up any rough edges with the wheel, stone or file. I suggest using a fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel, they last longer and don't break as easy as the ones in the Dremel kit. I use the Black & Decker one from Wal-Mart, but other companies make them as well.
You can use a fine tooth hacksaw and file, tin snips or a Dremel tool with the cut off wheel (best choice). The hack saw leaves the cut a bit rough and needs to be cleaned up with a file, tin snips may put a slight bend in the leaves that you can straighten with pliers. The Dremel will cut it clean but it gets hot. You can clean up any rough edges with the wheel, stone or file. I suggest using a fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel, they last longer and don't break as easy as the ones in the Dremel kit. I use the Black & Decker one from Wal-Mart, but other companies make them as well.
#6623
RE: WACO YMF
Thanks John,
I have a 1/8" band saw with fine tooth blades and I do have an assortment of cut-off wheels as well. I am working on cutting my axles to length and drilling the wheels and pants. I will mount the pant with 2 sig wheel pant mounts per pant. One on each side of the wheel, I will notch the axle for the outside wheel pant mount which should keep the pant from rotating and will not weaken the landing gear.
I am going to add the fuselage panels before building the landing gear fairings, I will have to experiment with different methods of building the fillets where the fairing meets the fuse. I want the fillet to be able to move with the panding gear so mothing breaks on a hard landing if I get alot of flex from the gear.
Later!!
Anthony
I have a 1/8" band saw with fine tooth blades and I do have an assortment of cut-off wheels as well. I am working on cutting my axles to length and drilling the wheels and pants. I will mount the pant with 2 sig wheel pant mounts per pant. One on each side of the wheel, I will notch the axle for the outside wheel pant mount which should keep the pant from rotating and will not weaken the landing gear.
I am going to add the fuselage panels before building the landing gear fairings, I will have to experiment with different methods of building the fillets where the fairing meets the fuse. I want the fillet to be able to move with the panding gear so mothing breaks on a hard landing if I get alot of flex from the gear.
Later!!
Anthony
#6624
RE: WACO YMF
Jim(SuperCubMan),
Where did you get your .020 windshield material, I am looking for a good source. I want to order enough to do my fuse and the top wing center section gas tank cover. I will need some large sheets as my plane is 1/4 scale.
Thanks!
Anthony
Where did you get your .020 windshield material, I am looking for a good source. I want to order enough to do my fuse and the top wing center section gas tank cover. I will need some large sheets as my plane is 1/4 scale.
Thanks!
Anthony
#6625
Join Date: Mar 2004
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